Funny, it shows as out of stock on the Sonic site. However, I ordered from Amazon and the order status is "shipped". Maybe they prioritize Amazon orders first? Dunno.
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Yeah, I guess this amp is making waves because, shortly after I got mine in December, the price went up. I believe we paid $169 for the amp and then it went up to $200. Now , of course it seems inventory is not keeping up with demand. I , for one, am glad Honda didn't have that issue with the F6B.:icon_biggrin: I bet that Honda wished they had that issue.
I couldn't find the 4 channel one on Amazon either. Here is a link to NVX's site, but they list this amp at $299. That's a big jump in price.
http://www.nvx.com/mvpa4-4-channel-c...fier-400w-rms/
I install 2 polk marine 6x9 in each of my saddle bags with a small amp in left bag it sounds incredible I use the rear speaker output for signal so the fader and everything works as it should I install a switch on the left panel to turn amp off if I only want to play stock stereo, and yes I ride big time I can carry luggage for myself and wife for a week. I had the bike 1 year I have just over 11,000 miles
I return now, because, the MVP4a is back in stock at Sonic Electronics and I have one on order. So, Jimmy Tee, now that you had so much fun (i.e., experience) with the sound upgrade, what do you think will be the simplest approach to the wiring, assuming the installation of the MVP4a and just the two front speaker replacements? I saw your original thread with all the things you tried, and I'd like to leverage your experience and not go through all that you did. I'm also hoping to find space for the amp in the front fairing.
Thanks in advance every much!
The absolutely easiest way to hook up that amp would be to get an adapter ,that is available a couple of different places, that plugs into the headset plug and gives you an 3.5 mm (1/8" jack) to then adapt using a 3.5 mm to stereo RCA plug adapter. Other than power wires, this would set you up to use the amp. This is compromised in that you have to have the headset button engaged, but it will work just fine. You could also tap into the headset harness and solder in your own RCA connectors and this would leave the headset plug vacant, but you'd still have have the headset button engaged. This set up will yield a satisfying pre amp signal to the new amp.
The way I did it, as I detailed in the mentioned thread, was to splice into the actual pre out signals that feed the factory amp. This is more involved and I ultimately removed the factory Honda amp in the process. This is the way I would do it again as it leaves the headset function to function normally. Even though I don't use the headset, I just felt more satisfied doing it that way and it also allowed me to get 4 channels of pre outs as opposed to just the two that are in the headset. Tapping into the preamp signals that feed the factory amp is not that difficult, but it does require some skill in wiring and making connections. Also , for me required removing a fair amount of rear body work. But not bad.
would using the passenger headset pigtail wiring be a neater, out of the way place to tap in? Everything could be hidden under the seat. Jim
would using the passenger headset pigtail wiring be a neater, out of the way place to tap in? Everything could be hidden under the seat. Jim
The answer is yes, but you'd either have to wire in some jacks to the passenger hook up or buy a harness that plugs into the passenger feed to use the above mentioned adapters. As I'm sure you know, the F6B does not come with the harness installed for the passenger but it is an accessory available through Honda or another vendor.
Jimmy, since the headset plug allows for plugging in a combined headset/microphone, I'm guessing the adapter you mention would have multiple jacks on the other end, for 2-channel output as well as microphone input, correct? Just asking so I can fine a suitable adapter.
Jimmy, check out this adapter, maybe kill two birds with one stone!:
http://www.amazon.com/Olufsen-5-pin-...+connector+din
That would seem to be an idea, however DO NOT buy it. Seems logical doesn't it? However, 5 pin din plugs are pretty common in the audio world, but just because it is has 5 pins, does not mean those 5 pins are wired for the same purpose. Each of those pins are connected to a wire for a single purpose. In the 5 pin plug on our headset jacks, only three pins are used for the speaker portion of the headset. One pin is a shared common for both the left and right stereo signals and then there are the left and right stereo signal leads. The other two pins are for a ground and signal wire for the mic of a headset.
You need something like this http://wingstuff.com/products/21549-...?from_search=1
or here
http://www.sierra-mc.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SIE-WMA-F
and then something like this, they sell various configurations of these just about anywhere.
http://www.amazon.com/12ft-3-5mm-Ste...+3+5mm+adapter
I didn't want to rely on the auto/signal sensing. There is a remote turn on terminal as you are aware. I believe it has to be powered either way, not sure. I used the power feed that used to power the factory amp as the remote turn on signal. You could use any 12 volt accessory voltage though. Like the 12 volts that is in the harness for the left pocket accessory power outlet. You just want to be sure it is a voltage that only comes on with the ignition or accessory key position.
Best stereo upgrade so far is a good windshield and stock pipes !
Well you know how I got there. I'd imagine that the power source could be picked up before getting back to the rear where the amp harness is, but I have not looked for it elsewhere. I wanted the preout signals too that fed the OEM amp. You do have a shop manual right? I could have probably tapped into the harness before it got into the back, but the harness before there is tightly wrapped and bundled with not much apparent slack to work with.
Don't really care for the AVC. My thomb on the volume works just fine. Before I did the stero mods, the AVC seemed it would get too low at lower speeds or be too loud at higher speeds. Actually haven't tried it since doing the upgrade thing.
Just did a speaker swap with j&m and a 11 inch baggershield.....the screen made the difference more than the speakers......less tinny sounding but not much more performance.they are also on backorder til sept.
Haven't heard the J&M but I wouldn't expect much from them. I have Polk Audio MM series component speakers with the addition of a aftermarket amplifier and also a sub.
Project complete! I bought the 5.5 Polk speakers and made frames from plywood. Put the left crossover under the left compartment and put both the amplifier and the right crossover in the right compartment. Now I just need to give it a go on a ride. In the garage with earplugs in I didn't detect any noticeable increase in volume, but a road test will be the best judge.
So, I've been able to do my road test, so here is a report:
First, a summary of my installation:
1. Polk DB 5251, no sub woofer, used existing tweeters
2. NVX MVPA4 amp
3. Connected via headset plug
So, the volume is definitely higher than the original. Jimmy measured 2x, but I would guess 1.5x in my case.
AVC no longer works; I'm guessing that AVC only works when speakers are chosen as the output; but not when headset is chosen.
Sound quality is not as good, probably because I did not install a sub woofer.
So, would I do it again knowing what I now know? Jury is still out.
Will I uninstall? Definitely not, I really wanted the extra volume.
Wish it sounded a little bit better, but I'll get used to it.