A Few No0b Questions After Tinkering a Little...

So, I got my new-to-me 2015 in yesterday, and was able
to look over it a little. I have a few questions to which
hopefully some of you more experienced guys might know
the answer...

1) What's the little square next to the cubby lock on the
right fairing?
2) What's under the cover in the right fairing, and why
isn't there more storage there?
3) I removed the badges, which went well, except there
is some discoloration under the "Anniversary Eagle" and
the "H" and "N" of the front HONDA badge. It has no
varying texture to the touch. Any recommendations on
remedying that on a matte silver?
4) What does a clutch job usually run? This thing definitely
needs a clutch.
5) Is the intercom cable a powered line? I will never utilize it.
6) Following the instructions, I can't get to the screen to
customize the "opening ceremony" sequence. Am I missing a trick?
7) Is there an aftermarket rear brake pedal in black?
8) Are the stock stereo speakers silver in the middle? Not sure
if mine are stock or aftermarket.
9) What are the best after market slip-on mufflers to use with Torq Loops?

I'm sure I'll have more questions as time goes by. I was
happy to see the previous owner installed many of the
mods I was planning anyway, which has greatly reduced
the money I have to spend, of course! It came with:

- Switchback red/amber rear LEDs.
- Strobing brake LEDs
- Switchback white/amber running/fog LEDs
- Smoke front running/turn signal lenses
- 12v power supply in glove box
- Ergo III highway pegs (I'll be replacing them with Aeros)
- Torq Loopz
- Aftermarket shield (I thought it was a Stad, but it's something similar)

I officially have the following on order:

- Pathfinder LEDs for all the H7s
- Switchback LEDs for the front running/turn signal lights
- Taller passenger backrest for my wonderful bride
- Bluetooth/amp/ground isolator mod found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTlof-fr1w8&t=165s
- Gear indicator
- Kuryakyn "Transformer" passenger floorboards
- Rivco Aero footpegs to replace the Ergos

Thanks in advance for any info, y'all!

Hey KevinT, you are way ahead of the game as the previous owner installed many of the preferred add-ons. Here is what I can offer:

2) What's under the cover in the right fairing, and why isn't there more storage there? - OEM Cruise control if you have it. Otherwise, coolant system cap and hoses. There is no room to add a pocket like on the left.
7) Is there an aftermarket rear brake pedal in black? - Not that I am aware of. Easier to have yours powder coated.
8) Are the stock stereo speakers silver in the middle? Not sure if mine are stock or aftermarket. - OEM speakers for my '13 were solid black, no silver center.
9) What are the best after market slip-on mufflers to use with Torq Loops? Man, you will get so many answers for this one. lol I do not have Loops but I chose Bassani and love the sound.

Don't remember where I got mine but I looks like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32882630291.html

The "opening ceremony" sequence is difficult mainly because of the time allowed. Be sure you know each step before hand so you don't let it time out which it does quickly.

The little square is a good place to put a Honda volt gauge. Many me included have done so.

My stock (15) speakers were not silver. See pic: Attachment 7508

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Originally Posted by 2wheelsforme

My stock (15) speakers were not silver. See pic: Attachment 7508

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Ok, thanks. Previous owner must’ve installed aftermarket speakers.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2wheelsforme

The little square is a good place to put a Honda volt gauge. Many me included have done so.

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What’s its stock purpose, though?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2wheelsforme

The "opening ceremony" sequence is difficult mainly because of the time allowed. Be sure you know each step before hand so you don't let it time out which it does quickly.

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Yeah, I’m doing it in time, but following the directions, I never make it to the proper screen.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2wheelsforme

Don't remember where I got mine but I looks like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32882630291.html

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Is that a reputable vendor? Haven’t heard of them.

Why do you need to replace the clutch?
They usually last a very long time.

Ive added some new electronics and my dash now looks like this: Attachment 7509

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JackB

Why do you need to replace the clutch?
They usually last a very long time.

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I have no idea. It's slipping like crazy. Taking it in this morning to get checked out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JackB

Why do you need to replace the clutch?
They usually last a very long time.

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Turns out, it’s probably just dirty fluid, and a clogged cylinder. They’re going to replace all fluids and do an oil change. I’d venture to guess the original owner never had anything changed. 😑

5) Is the intercom cable a powered line? I will never utilize it.

I can't remember if there's a low DC voltage on one of the pins but it's not going to be 12VDC. You can remove the left cubby and drop the connector on the inside of the shelter. I "zip-tied" mine to the aux power wires under the cubby.

This You Tube video shows you how to remove the left cubby. Once removed you can get 12VDC from an open connected below the cubby. Here's a Plug & Play Power Port that connects right up. Most owners attach the port to the top right corner inside the cubby. You could also get creative and run the power out the same "hole" the intercom cable runs though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KevinT

So, I got my new-to-me 2015 in yesterday, and was able
to look over it a little. I have a few questions....

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I'll provide an input to you based upon my experience:

1) What's the little square next to the cubby lock on the
right fairing?

• Nothing there on your bike, but it is a great place to install a number of switches, lights, etc. I installed a voltmeter and the LED for my Gorilla alarm there.

2) What's under the cover in the right fairing, and why
isn't there more storage there?

• Provides access to the radiator cap. If your bike has cruise control module, it is mounted there also. (The older GL1800's had storage there and the cruise control module was under the top cover below the radio unit, but the cruise had electronic leakage resulting in a hum on some bikes into the radio -- I had shielded my unit on by 2002 by wrapping it in aluminum foil.) There is a little room under there. I installed my Gorilla alarm unit there since I do not have to access it.

4) What does a clutch job usually run? This thing definitely
needs a clutch.

• Did you check the clutch fluid? Clutch lever need adjusting? I would be surprised that the clutch would need replaced unless it was really abused. I put 154k+ miles on my 2002 GL1800 and never an issue with the clutch. I totaled by 2002 and now have a 2016 F6B Deluxe.

5) Is the intercom cable a powered line? I will never utilize it.

• Not an issue. Just turn the intercom off by pressing the INTERCOM button and holding until the intercom is not displayed on the screen.

6) Following the instructions, I can't get to the screen to
customize the "opening ceremony" sequence. Am I missing a trick?

• They can be finicky sometimes. I did in on my 2002 but haven't done it on my F6B.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KevinT

Yeah, I’m doing it in time, but following the directions, I never make it to the proper screen.

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Her is my recommendation:

I tried roughly 4 times. It kept timing out. After cursing loudly several times I opened a Dukes Brown Ale and called into the house for the wife. She came out tried once and said I got it. She got it on the 2nd try.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KevinT

Turns out, it’s probably just dirty fluid, and a clogged cylinder. They’re going to replace all fluids and do an oil change. I’d venture to guess the original owner never had anything changed. 😑

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Well, update. It needs a clutch. 😑 The previous owner appears to never have changed the fluids in this bike, and the dirty fluids led to the ruination of the clutch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KevinT

Well, update. It needs a clutch.  The previous owner appears to never have changed the fluids in this bike, and the dirty fluids led to the ruination of the clutch.

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If the engine oil wasn't changed assume the rest of the fluids haven't been changed. You should probable have the rear drive oil, coolant, break and clutch fluid changed while it's there.

Here are "MY" answers to your remaining questions...

3) I removed the badges, which went well, except there is some discoloration under the "Anniversary Eagle" and the "H" and "N" of the front HONDA badge. It has no varying texture to the touch. Any recommendations on
remedying that on a matte silver?
Don't think anyone has found a perfect solution to the "shadows" left behind by removing the Factory Honda Decals. My solution was to cover with new decals.

8) Are the stock stereo speakers silver in the middle? Not sure if mine are stock or aftermarket.
I replaced my stock speakers with J&M Performance XT Faring Speakers, that have a large silver center on the diaphragm. They are a little bit louder but still not great at 70+MPH with a low windshield.

I'm no expert mechanic, but I don't see how not changing the fluids would destroy the clutch.
I imagine once they change out the clutch and the problem still exists, they will then repair the real problem, and you will never know ....
How many miles?

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Originally Posted by 98valk

I'm no expert mechanic, but I don't see how not changing the fluids would destroy the clutch.
I imagine once they change out the clutch and the problem still exists, they will then repair the real problem, and you will never know ....
How many miles?

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Agreed. I'm sure many owners of all kinds of motorcycles never change the clutch fluid. I have a 22 year old Valkyrie with 175,000 miles, and I've changed the fluid once. The clutch still works fine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 98valk

I'm no expert mechanic, but I don't see how not changing the fluids would destroy the clutch.
I imagine once they change out the clutch and the problem still exists, they will then repair the real problem, and you will never know ....
How many miles?

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I'm certainly no mechanic either. The way it was explained to me is
that clutch fluid somehow had contaminants it that clogged the port
it's supposed to flow through. This resulted in the bike being driven
for an unknown (long) period of time like the clutch was pulled halfway
in the whole time. In addition, there's no telling how horrible of a
rider the previous owner was. The bike only has 15,000 miles, so it
was shocking that the clutch was gone.

But anyway, here we are. The dealer who sold it to me is paying for
the labor for the repair. I had to fight to get that much, and I should
have fought more, but I got tired of dealing with it. I'm also having
every last fluid changed in the bike.

This clutch fluid everyone is talking about...doesn’t the clutch and engine use the same oil? The fluid in the hose just controls the shifting mechanism, I thought. That doesn’t get to the clutch. Someone correct me if I’m wrong. It’s kind of like saying the brake fluid ruined your brakes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wjduke

This clutch fluid everyone is talking about...doesn’t the clutch and engine use the same oil? The fluid in the hose just controls the shifting mechanism, I thought. That doesn’t get to the clutch. Someone correct me if I’m wrong. It’s kind of like saying the brake fluid ruined your brakes.

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Dirty clutch fluid can clog the return port in the clutch slave cylinder which could result in the clutch not fully engaging. Similar situation to holding the clutch lever partially disengaged to keep the clutch in the friction zone.

Az Wingrider

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Az Wingrider

Dirty clutch fluid can clog the return port in the clutch slave cylinder which could result in the clutch not fully engaging. Similar situation to holding the clutch lever partially disengaged to keep the clutch in the friction zone.

Az Wingrider

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Ok, that makes sense. Thanks. I didn’t see the correlation the first time.

Makes sense that it is 'possible' that the return hole was partially clogged, keeping the clutch from completely engaging, but not at all reasonable.
The next time the clutch lever was pulled, the clutch would be stuck even more disengaged, repeating until it would not be rideable. To remain just engaged enough to ride, but still slip .....

I think I remember reading about our clutches being aided by oil pressure in the tranny?? Maybe something is wrong there?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KevinT

Is that a reputable vendor? Haven’t heard of them.

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UPDATE: The after market lever appears to be lower than the OEM and therefore scrapes on a hard right lean along with the peg. It may be possible that I hit a bump while leaning and now the part that pinches the shift shaft broke across from the bolt that tightens it down. It is cast alum so not so strong. I will be reinstalling my stock pedal.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KevinT

I'm certainly no mechanic either. The way it was explained to me is
that clutch fluid somehow had contaminants it that clogged the port
it's supposed to flow through. This resulted in the bike being driven
for an unknown (long) period of time like the clutch was pulled halfway
in the whole time. In addition, there's no telling how horrible of a
rider the previous owner was. The bike only has 15,000 miles, so it
was shocking that the clutch was gone.

But anyway, here we are. The dealer who sold it to me is paying for
the labor for the repair. I had to fight to get that much, and I should
have fought more, but I got tired of dealing with it. I'm also having
every last fluid changed in the bike.

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Just an update for those who care. $2600 later, I’m finally good to
go. My mechanic said the clutch plates were "burned to a crisp".
I’m not sure how that happens in 15,000 miles, but that’s what it
was. The clutch needed to be replaced, plus the entire hub the
clutch sits in. Changed all the fluids out, too, of course. Anyway,
got all my goodies installed except my gear indicator, and I’m
waiting on delivery of my Ultimate Seats Midrider. Now that all
the clutch parts have been replaced, this thing rides like new.
It’s amazing. Looking forward to taking some trips soon! Thanks
for all the answers to my no0b questions!

Glad you are back on the road. What were the parameters for selecting the Midrider? I ask because when I purchased my Ultimate they attempted to push me towards the Mid but I am much happier with the King. The Mid could very well be perfect for you, just curious.

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Originally Posted by KevinT

What’s its stock purpose, though?

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I believe that’s where heated grip control goes. They come on the deluxe model.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by F6Pilot

Glad you are back on the road. What were the parameters for selecting the Midrider? I ask because when I purchased my Ultimate they attempted to push me towards the Mid but I am much happier with the King. The Mid could very well be perfect for you, just curious.

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Oh, just went with the Mid because it seemed that the King
was for taller riders. I'm 5'11. Now you have me worried.

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Originally Posted by wjduke

I believe that’s where heated grip control goes. They come on the deluxe model.

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Yeah, I have that. I was speaking of the blank square plastic
near the bottom, next to the heat controls.

Mid rider works well for me. 6’ tall. 31” inseam.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KevinT

Oh, just went with the Mid because it seemed that the King
was for taller riders. I'm 5'11. Now you have me worried.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by F6Bster

Mid rider works well for me. 6’ tall. 31” inseam.

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Ok, good to know. I'm 5'11 with a 33". I'm comfortable on the stock
seat. I think the Mid will work out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KevinT

Oh, just went with the Mid because it seemed that the King
was for taller riders. I'm 5'11. Now you have me worried.

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Don't be worried as it may be perfect for you. I had the luxury of mounting and sitting on both at a rally where Ultimate was set up as a vendor. Mathematically, the Mid was the recommended seat for me at 6'. However, I felt like it had me too far forward, crowding me up on the "tank" and creating too much bend in my knees. I was used to siting further back so I opted for the King instead which gave me the space I was used to having. I even installed bar risers that brought them back to me and am satisfied with the results. Fortunately Ultimate had a great return policy that will allow options.

They probably used oil with friction modifiers which are so slippery they will make the clutch slip. I would change to rotella put on a few miles then change again. Make sure nothing is in the bottom of the circle on the oil you use.

Or it could have been drag raced?

I see the area you mentioned now. On my bike which I purchased used, the previous owner used that area for heated gear switches. He installed the plug ins on the side of the bike. I think Honda gives that area for owner choice of accessories, like you’ve heard, volt meters and whatever.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by F6Pilot

Don't be worried as it may be perfect for you. I had the luxury of mounting and sitting on both at a rally where Ultimate was set up as a vendor. Mathematically, the Mid was the recommended seat for me at 6'. However, I felt like it had me too far forward, crowding me up on the "tank" and creating too much bend in my knees. I was used to siting further back so I opted for the King instead which gave me the space I was used to having. I even installed bar risers that brought them back to me and am satisfied with the results. Fortunately Ultimate had a great return policy that will allow options.

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Make sure you double check the return policy for YOUR seat. I did not have a good experience and it cost me....but it seems that most others have had great results.

I'm 5'10" and my inseam is 30". The Ultimate king seat works well for me. It's not as big as I thought.