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While searching for an issue regarding rust, I came across these VCI emitters.
I am thinking about buying a pack of these and inserting them into my gun safes. Currently I don't have an issue with rust due to the desiccant (Damp Rid) tubs I have been using for years in each one of my safes; but I find this extra layer of protection very interesting:
https://www.corrosionvci.com/corrosi...Daubrite10Disk
Anyone using these VCI emitter disks?
When I click link all I get is:Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
"WHERE WOULD YOU LIKE TO GO TODAY?
The page you are looking for has been removed.
This is the default 404 page for this website; An extensive database for clients and visitors to KPR ADCOR INC.
Advanced Corrosion Solutions. Toll free: 1-866-577-2326"
:icon_doh:
Same with me. Page must be removed. The best way to keep guns from rusting, is to, keep shooting them! Have fun, and Merry Christmas! :icon_mrgreen:
Let me try again. (That was weird)
https://www.corrosionvci.com/corrosi...Daubrite10Disk
The paper type vci emitters are use extensively in industrial applications. Most of our saw blades come packed in them. Some of the firearms do to ( my s&w revolver was) I also use the spray on type made by WD-40 at work on some of our water fed stone cutting equipment it works for some applications where nothing else would so the technology is valid.
That one works and thanks for the link. I am going to look into that stuff for my sealed gun safe.Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
https://www.static.corrosionvci.com/...k-emitters.jpg
:yes:
I'm ordering some of these from Brownells as soon as I get my new credit card in the mail. Some low life bastage tied to make some charges with it right before Christmas. :icon_frown: Good thing I had all of my online Christmas shopping finished before that happened. :shhh:
Very interesting chemistry in these things ... I just wonder how airtight the enclosure must be to prevent leakage (and lower the effectiveness of the product). That's not really explained on the web site. What I do now is re-use packs of dessicant silica gel by baking the moisture out of them – a faith-based approach. Of course, I could also oil the guns regularly ... :jerkit:
Thinking back when I owned classic cars , there was a device that we used that if I rememberQuote:
Originally Posted by willtill
correctly put a small charge of electricity on the car to prevent rust.
Ah Shortleg,, do you have any more info?? I've always wondered if that was possible. The idea of electrolytic rust removal always comes to mind.
I live where they spray that damn liquid rust on the road and I lost one real nice truck to it. The truck came from Georgia with no rust and 5 years later the frame was almost gone.
The problem is that my driveway is shaded and it isn't paved, if the vehicle doesn't get driven every day it quickly goes to hell.
Yea and they were all "Snake Oil" You might like to read https://corrosion-doctors.org/Car/ca...ronic-rust.htm for more info.Quote:
Originally Posted by shortleg0521
Here is a quoit from this very informative article, "One has to understand the principle of CP to understand that the technique works by forcing a protective flow of electrons to the metal that needs protection. For this process to work, you need a complete electrical circuit to bring the electrons back. In the case of an outboard motor on a boat, the sea water completes the circuit. In the case of a bridge, the wet soil completes the circuit. But in your car, the only way to complete the circuit on all the metal in your car is to drive into seawater, bury in soil or again park it in your swimming pool
There are various products on the market claiming to provide cathodic electrochemical protection to your car, just by injecting electrons into your metal work - but they don't work. Countries like Canada and the U.S.A. have actually got court orders to stop these products from being sold - simply because they don't work. In your car, there are lots of little nooks and crannies where dirt and/or water can collect. The rust happens not where the metal is dry, nor where the metal is wet - but at the interface between the wet and dry metal. So if you screwed a bunch of anodes right on the interface or one or two millimeters thereof, you would protect your car. But you would need thousands of these anodes over your car."
I think I read a long time ago, someone could take a Ford Model T capacitor (or something like that) and electrify a whole car's body which would thwart theft. :icon_twisted:
And dammit.. I wish my new credit card would come in the mail. I have found a really good deal on bulk 5.56mm which ends on 12/31/2017 and I don't have a usable credit card at the moment. :icon_doh: My wife offered me one of her credit cards to use, but I am sure that the credit card police black helicopters would descend upon me as soon as I placed an ammo order. For all she does is buy froo-froo girly things with it.. :shock:
.
In That case I would order the most powerful ammo I could in pink!,Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
If you're using USAA they will overnight it for you. Don't ask me how I know.