extra power supplies for radar detect and phone etc
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  1. #1
    Senior Member 2wheelsforme's Avatar
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    I ran both switched and unswitched fused wires up the left side of bike, coat hanger will fish them behind tank and out in front of tank. Then down the front and back into the area under the left cubby, plenty of room under the box and easy to get back to the bars or right side. Then you can do anything you need and not have to go back to battery. My battery tender and headed gear are not fed from up past the gas tank but direct from battery and closer to the seat. Heated gear in front of seat and tender in the hole in front of the left bag.

  2. #2
    DarkSider#1617 Steve 0080's Avatar
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    I currently am running 5...mix of USB and Cigar and Battery hook ups. You can never have enough.
    " Truth is often deemed rude, blunt and to the point which is why so few make their friend " Freddy Hayler ..352-267-1553 Sanford, FLA Gutterman6000@Gmail.com

  3. #3
    Senior Member MisterB's Avatar
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    There are so many ways to do this, after screwing around with remote switched distribution points and all sorts of ideas I went with the easiest.
    My needs were simply for electronics, not heated gear.
    The manual says to increase the ACC fuse to 10A when installing the cubby plug so we know that is a safe move.
    On the fuse block left side there is a screw terminal and exit point for running 2 wires out. I ran a hot and ground off the box and fished them up through the left side of the tank with the other wires. I used some braided cable loom to protect it, electrical tape would also work.
    Terminated with 4x waterproof plugs that are easily accessible from beside the cubby.
    If I'm pulling 120 watts and pop the fuse then there is a short. Charging phone, GPS, and radar detector will be way less than 10A, I checked the specs on my devices and added them up, nowhere near 10A.
    Consider: my fantastic 5.1A USB charger does not draw 5.1A, it draws a little more than 26Watts or a little over 2A at the fuse. The 5.1A rating is at 5V. It rapidly charges my iphone and has no problem keeping the GPS going. Radar detectors typically draw less than 1/2A.
    Anywho, everyone has different needs, this worked for me.

    Here's (hopefully) a pic of the install and my charger/compressor pigtail:

    IMG_1333 by MrBlum, on Flickr

    IMG_1334 by MrBlum, on Flickr

  4. #4
    Junior Member
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    Power Outlet

    Quote Originally Posted by MisterB View Post
    There are so many ways to do this, after screwing around with remote switched distribution points and all sorts of ideas I went with the easiest.
    My needs were simply for electronics, not heated gear.
    The manual says to increase the ACC fuse to 10A when installing the cubby plug so we know that is a safe move.
    On the fuse block left side there is a screw terminal and exit point for running 2 wires out. I ran a hot and ground off the box and fished them up through the left side of the tank with the other wires. I used some braided cable loom to protect it, electrical tape would also work.
    Terminated with 4x waterproof plugs that are easily accessible from beside the cubby.
    If I'm pulling 120 watts and pop the fuse then there is a short. Charging phone, GPS, and radar detector will be way less than 10A, I checked the specs on my devices and added them up, nowhere near 10A.
    Consider: my fantastic 5.1A USB charger does not draw 5.1A, it draws a little more than 26Watts or a little over 2A at the fuse. The 5.1A rating is at 5V. It rapidly charges my iphone and has no problem keeping the GPS going. Radar detectors typically draw less than 1/2A.
    Anywho, everyone has different needs, this worked for me.

    Here's (hopefully) a pic of the install and my charger/compressor pigtail:

    IMG_1333 by MrBlum, on Flickr

    IMG_1334 by MrBlum, on Flickr
    Nice and neat! Thanks for sharing the pictures!

  5. #5
    Senior Member MisterB's Avatar
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    Thanks Indian Express!
    There are a couple things that I forgot to add but can't edit post any more.
    I didn't clarify that the ACC screw terminals are fed by the switched ACC fuse so they are added to the load on the (now) 10A ACC circuit.
    If a rider needed more juice you could use the screw terminals to switch on a relay fed directly by a fused connection to the battery.
    There is some space between the battery and the cover and it might be enough to accommodate a standard or mini automotive relay with bracket. Best to use an insulating wiring harness rather than simple spade plugs when hooking it up.

    If I had Bill Gates money I'd still ride an F6B except for off-road use. I feel like a billionaire when I'm on this bike.
    Rode out Hwy21 in MO the other day listening to music, getting lost, using afternoon shadows to navigate. Bliss.

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