Computer re-set with aftermarket pipes/air filter

[srt8-in-largo]

+1..That is exactly my point..Is it really necessary to do this procedure as my bike runs fine to me..Maybe the dealer did the re-set before I picked it up as I don't know...I will try to find out when I contact them.......

No; completely unnecessary. If your bike runs good, then call it a day and enjoy it.

If you were a pro racer and you had access to ignition, fuel, and other tables... and you needed to get the last 5% of performance... then sure, a dyno session with a qualified tuner writing a custom tune may make more power with just breather mods... but resetting an ECM does nothing.

The GL1800 actually uses a couple of "3D" maps, one for low-load low-throttle and one for high-load high throttle. These maps are hard-coded and no reset, restart, or re-anything else is gonna change them. The ECM reads a set of basic inputs, checks the correction and control input sensors, and then generates a set of outputs to control ignition and fueling.

Whether your ECM is reset or not, it will still use the same set of sensors, in the same way, and it will still use the same tables to operate your engine.

But the question remains......is this necessary to do after installing pipes or a K&N? Doesn't the ecu adapt automatically to any changes made?

Our ECM uses sensor input to adjust ignition and fueling, not adapt; that's something different. An adaptive ECM "learns" a particular driving style to help predict the engine control outputs.

+1

Honda uses 3D Mapping and this same procedure was used to re-calibrate the infamous 1800 VTV. After following the described procedure turn off the ignition and then restart the bike. You will have re-booted the ECM

Bob, the procedure above doesn't recallibrate. Recalibrating an ECM means that the map profiles in the pics I posted above have been re-written (re-shaped)... and that doesn't happen with a reset. It better not!

Just to beat a dead horse;

Is "re-boot" meant as "reset", and back to factory? Or is it a "re-calibrate", which would adjust to any changes, such as variation in sensors, variations in altitude, K&N vs stock, etc?

I ask because I am at 5000 ft. Bike was probably cal'd at sea levelish.

Bike runs great, but greater is fun, too.

I'm wondering if it could affect gas mileage by running a bit leaner during the open loop time (if it was re-cal'd vs reset).

With that said, I do not have the cold hesitation problem. Maybe because I am running a bit rich during the open loop period.

TIA

Back to factory? If you're not running a Guhl tune, you ARE at factory.

Reseting the ECM is vastly different from recalibrating it; Guhl is the only person I know of who is doing commercial recalibrations for the average Joe.

The calibration in this bike, or for that matter, in any production vehicle on the road, is not cal'd at sea level, nor is it cal'd at any other single altitude. OEM tuners go to GREAT lengths to create a single tune that is the best combination to work in ALL environmental conditions worldwide; high, low, hot, cold, dry, and humid.

Guhl could create a tune optimized for elevation, if he were so inclined $, but reseting the factory tune means that you are still running the factory tune (i.e. nothing is different).

When you head up into the mountains, it is a good idea to do the same as above, with the exception of disconnecting the battery.

If your bike is shut off and cooled down, start the motor and don't touch the throttle. Let it warm up to where the fans kick on, then off. Shut off the key, restart and you are good to go. Basically what you've done, is a forced recalibration of the ECM.

Exactly how does the above procedure help a bike at elevation? And how does it recalibrate the ECM?

I'm open to the idea that I may be missing something... but I don't believe that procedure will do anything to help with elevation; how could it?

Ok, I got to have some questions answered here

Does anybody have the stock a/f ratio chart on a dyno sheet or what have you. Yamaha is notorious for running their bikes very rich at idle to very lean at top end. You just cant fix it without a PC aftermarket piggybacked on the ecu. Reboot or not it just doesn't have enough parameter area to cover the addition of a K&N filter or an exhaust.

So Honda has 3D mapping. Ok I looked it up and it doesn't say how much it will repair in the a/f mixture, so how much will it repair?

Plus, how would you know if you are or not in the stoic area of a/f mix ? Wouldn't one need a sniffer done on a dyno throughout the rev range ?

Not trying to stir the pot, just curious of the a/f mix across the board after adding a very breathable air filter and exhaust, is it realy safe, has anybody an a/f map so I can see it?

Is this ecu reprogrammable by a Honda Rep ?

Extremely concerned here with this 20k motor.

Valid concerns... but I'd be godsmacked if you can show me a filter and exhaust mod that will throw an OEM tune out of range. Maybe on a newer platform, but not on a platform that has been on the road for 15 years.

Tail pipe sniffers are for folks who are not serious about tuning engines. The AFR sensor needs to be pre-cat, not after. Even if you're running cat-less it needs to be much closer to the exhaust port. If you're not at stoich at idle, you'll know by the smell. If you ARE at stoich at high throttle, you'll know by having your engine blown.

Honda won't tune your bike but Guhl will. Try checking some of the Guhl threads or maybe Guhl's website for before and after a/f ratios on some dyno sheets that have been shared.