Computer re-set with aftermarket pipes/air filter
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  1. #1
    Moderator Hornblower's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opas ride View Post
    Seeing a lot of pro/con info last couple days on the site under "what exhaust are you running"...What is the correct answer to this question if anyone really knows??..I am running Cobra's and K&N filter installed by the dealer at pick-up time and bike seems to run great..Appreciate an up-date to this issue if someone would post the "real world" answer...Thanks
    I can give you the sequence given to me by Jimmy at Torq Master Pipes as follows:

    1. Disconnect the battery negative lead from battery.

    2. Key on.

    3. Touch the starter button as if trying to start the engine. (helps discharge any residual e- the system.

    4. Key off.

    5. Wait about 15 minutes......

    6. FROM THIS POINT FORWARD DO NOT TOUCH OR TWIST THROTTLE (until you go riding).

    7. Reconnect battery neg. to batt.

    8. Key on.

    9. Touch/push starter button to start engine. DO NOT TOUCH/TWIST THROTTLE.

    10.. Allow to idle for 10 mins (untill fan kicks on). DO NOT TOUCH/TWIST THROTTLE.
    Ken (Hornblower)

  2. #2
    Moderator bob109's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hornblower View Post
    I can give you the sequence given to me by Jimmy at Torq Master Pipes as follows:

    1. Disconnect the battery negative lead from battery.

    2. Key on.

    3. Touch the starter button as if trying to start the engine. (helps discharge any residual e- the system.

    4. Key off.

    5. Wait about 15 minutes......

    6. FROM THIS POINT FORWARD DO NOT TOUCH OR TWIST THROTTLE (until you go riding).

    7. Reconnect battery neg. to batt.

    8. Key on.

    9. Touch/push starter button to start engine. DO NOT TOUCH/TWIST THROTTLE.

    10.. Allow to idle for 10 mins (untill fan kicks on). DO NOT TOUCH/TWIST THROTTLE.
    +1

    Honda uses 3D Mapping and this same procedure was used to re-calibrate the infamous 1800 VTV. After following the described procedure turn off the ignition and then restart the bike. You will have re-booted the ECM

  3. #3
    DarkSider#1617 Steve 0080's Avatar
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    Same for Rune…...
    " Truth is often deemed rude, blunt and to the point which is why so few make their friend " Freddy Hayler ..352-267-1553 Sanford, FLA Gutterman6000@Gmail.com

  4. #4
    Moderator / V-twin Gobbler GiddyupF6B's Avatar
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    But the question remains......is this necessary to do after installing pipes or a K&N? Doesn't the ecu adapt automatically to any changes made?

  5. #5
    Moderator bob109's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GiddyupF6B View Post
    But the question remains......is this necessary to do after installing pipes or a K&N? Doesn't the ecu adapt automatically to any changes made?
    Like a computer, which receives a new program up-date, it recommends you restart your computer. Same for the ECM, as it has received some new info from the Oxygen, TPS, Crank and MAP Censors it has to re-boot to theses new parameters The procedure which has been described does just that

  6. #6
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    +1..That is exactly my point..Is it really necessary to do this procedure as my bike runs fine to me..Maybe the dealer did the re-set before I picked it up as I don't know...I will try to find out when I contact them.......

  7. #7
    Senior Member 98valk's Avatar
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    Just to beat a dead horse;

    Is "re-boot" meant as "reset", and back to factory? Or is it a "re-calibrate", which would adjust to any changes, such as variation in sensors, variations in altitude, K&N vs stock, etc?

    I ask because I am at 5000 ft. Bike was probably cal'd at sea levelish.

    Bike runs great, but greater is fun, too.

    I'm wondering if it could affect gas mileage by running a bit leaner during the open loop time (if it was re-cal'd vs reset).

    With that said, I do not have the cold hesitation problem. Maybe because I am running a bit rich during the open loop period.

    TIA

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by 98valk View Post
    Just to beat a dead horse;

    Is "re-boot" meant as "reset", and back to factory? Or is it a "re-calibrate", which would adjust to any changes, such as variation in sensors, variations in altitude, K&N vs stock, etc?

    I ask because I am at 5000 ft. Bike was probably cal'd at sea levelish.

    Bike runs great, but greater is fun, too.

    I'm wondering if it could affect gas mileage by running a bit leaner during the open loop time (if it was re-cal'd vs reset).

    With that said, I do not have the cold hesitation problem. Maybe because I am running a bit rich during the open loop period.

    TIA
    When you head up into the mountains, it is a good idea to do the same as above, with the exception of disconnecting the battery.

    If your bike is shut off and cooled down, start the motor and don't touch the throttle. Let it warm up to where the fans kick on, then off. Shut off the key, restart and you are good to go. Basically what you've done, is a forced recalibration of the ECM.
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  9. #9
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    Reset

    Quote Originally Posted by Hornblower View Post
    I can give you the sequence given to me by Jimmy at Torq Master Pipes as follows:

    1. Disconnect the battery negative lead from battery.

    2. Key on.

    3. Touch the starter button as if trying to start the engine. (helps discharge any residual e- the system.

    4. Key off.

    5. Wait about 15 minutes......

    6. FROM THIS POINT FORWARD DO NOT TOUCH OR TWIST THROTTLE (until you go riding).

    7. Reconnect battery neg. to batt.

    8. Key on.

    9. Touch/push starter button to start engine. DO NOT TOUCH/TWIST THROTTLE.

    10.. Allow to idle for 10 mins (untill fan kicks on). DO NOT TOUCH/TWIST THROTTLE.
    Thanks for the info going to try this when I get my new rush pipes !!

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