Computer re-set with aftermarket pipes/air filter

[GiddyupF6B]

But the question remains......is this necessary to do after installing pipes or a K&N? Doesn't the ecu adapt automatically to any changes made?

[bob109]

But the question remains......is this necessary to do after installing pipes or a K&N? Doesn't the ecu adapt automatically to any changes made?

Like a computer, which receives a new program up-date, it recommends you restart your computer. Same for the ECM, as it has received some new info from the Oxygen, TPS, Crank and MAP Censors it has to re-boot to theses new parameters The procedure which has been described does just that

[opas ride]

+1..That is exactly my point..Is it really necessary to do this procedure as my bike runs fine to me..Maybe the dealer did the re-set before I picked it up as I don't know...I will try to find out when I contact them.......

[98valk]

Just to beat a dead horse;

Is "re-boot" meant as "reset", and back to factory? Or is it a "re-calibrate", which would adjust to any changes, such as variation in sensors, variations in altitude, K&N vs stock, etc?

I ask because I am at 5000 ft. Bike was probably cal'd at sea levelish.

Bike runs great, but greater is fun, too.

I'm wondering if it could affect gas mileage by running a bit leaner during the open loop time (if it was re-cal'd vs reset).

With that said, I do not have the cold hesitation problem. Maybe because I am running a bit rich during the open loop period.

TIA

[bstroh59]

Just to beat a dead horse;

Is "re-boot" meant as "reset", and back to factory? Or is it a "re-calibrate", which would adjust to any changes, such as variation in sensors, variations in altitude, K&N vs stock, etc?

I ask because I am at 5000 ft. Bike was probably cal'd at sea levelish.

Bike runs great, but greater is fun, too.

I'm wondering if it could affect gas mileage by running a bit leaner during the open loop time (if it was re-cal'd vs reset).

With that said, I do not have the cold hesitation problem. Maybe because I am running a bit rich during the open loop period.

TIA

When you head up into the mountains, it is a good idea to do the same as above, with the exception of disconnecting the battery.

If your bike is shut off and cooled down, start the motor and don't touch the throttle. Let it warm up to where the fans kick on, then off. Shut off the key, restart and you are good to go. Basically what you've done, is a forced recalibration of the ECM.

[ED209]

Ok, I got to have some questions answered here

Does anybody have the stock a/f ratio chart on a dyno sheet or what have you. Yamaha is notorious for running their bikes very rich at idle to very lean at top end. You just cant fix it without a PC aftermarket piggybacked on the ecu. Reboot or not it just doesn't have enough parameter area to cover the addition of a K&N filter or an exhaust.

So Honda has 3D mapping. Ok I looked it up and it doesn't say how much it will repair in the a/f mixture, so how much will it repair?

Plus, how would you know if you are or not in the stoic area of a/f mix ? Wouldn't one need a sniffer done on a dyno throughout the rev range ?

Not trying to stir the pot, just curious of the a/f mix across the board after adding a very breathable air filter and exhaust, is it realy safe, has anybody an a/f map so I can see it?

Is this ecu reprogrammable by a Honda Rep ?

Extremely concerned here with this 20k motor.