Cruise control
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  1. #1

    Got the cruise working......

    I got the Rostera cruise on my wife's F6 working. I did most everything the same as Pete and Barry in the early posts, so I appreciate their info. Here's a couple of things I did different:

    1. I didn't use the relay switch for the brake "kill" switch and found that I could run a wire from the "Cold" pickup on the cruise to the back of the bike and get a true ground on the wire. The cold side coming from the rear wheel brake switch is on the front side of a solenoid under the seat, which didn't give me a full ground. If you pick up the wire that is after the solenoid that runs along the right frame, it will give you a true ground.

    2. I also put on a clutch kill switch. (Part SW, CLUTCH CRUISE 35335-MG9-951) I ran a wire from the green wire (it's only about 10" long) that ends in the wire harness, to the clutch switch and then to a ground. Pretty simple and it kills the cruise control as soon as you touch the clutch. I think this is a little better then the over rev function.

    3. I also bought the right controls (switches) off a wrecked bike and cannibalized the switches. When you do this, you have to swap the control body of the reverse switch and the cruise on/off switch. Careful when you pop these open, there's a little spring inside that loves to go flying.

    It was a lot of work, and not an easy add on, but I think my wife is going to love it.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Always try to positively influence a negative situation. ~author unknown

    Mine: '13 Gray Metallic
    The wife's: '13 F6B Black
    (Double) Darksider #487
    Michelin Alpin (current)
    Battle Axe BT45
    Proud to be a FREE American and I thank the Vets that did it for me!!!

    '08 Titanium Wing
    '79 Yamaha 750 Special
    '78 Honda 750, '72 Honda 350, '73 Suzuki 250, '75 Suzuki 185, '72 Suzuki 90

  2. #2
    Senior Member jkelley's Avatar
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    Great job!!!!!!!

    I am going to tackle mine this fall and may need to ask some questions if you don't mind.

  3. #3
    Member
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    May 2013
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    Lawrenceville, Georgia
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    Ask any questions that you want. That's what the forum is for.

    Make sure that you have a factory service manual before you attempt this install.

    I like the idea of the clutch switch as bstroh59 did, rather than the over-speed protection as I did. When I began this project (and believe me, it is a project), I wanted to invest as little $$ as possible, as I wasn't 100% sure that the install was going to be successful.

    The Rostra cruise control switch is kind of small, so the Honda handle bar control would probably be the way to go if cost is not a factor. I will probably make these changes this winter. I have put several thousand miles on the bike with the Rostra control, so, at least I know the system works.

  4. #4

    Report back.....

    Quote Originally Posted by bstroh59 View Post
    I got the Rostera cruise on my wife's F6 working. I did most everything the same as Pete and Barry in the early posts, so I appreciate their info. Here's a couple of things I did different:

    1. I didn't use the relay switch for the brake "kill" switch and found that I could run a wire from the "Cold" pickup on the cruise to the back of the bike and get a true ground on the wire. The cold side coming from the rear wheel brake switch is on the front side of a solenoid under the seat, which didn't give me a full ground. If you pick up the wire that is after the solenoid that runs along the right frame, it will give you a true ground.

    2. I also put on a clutch kill switch. (Part SW, CLUTCH CRUISE 35335-MG9-951) I ran a wire from the green wire (it's only about 10" long) that ends in the wire harness, to the clutch switch and then to a ground. Pretty simple and it kills the cruise control as soon as you touch the clutch. I think this is a little better then the over rev function.

    3. I also bought the right controls (switches) off a wrecked bike and cannibalized the switches. When you do this, you have to swap the control body of the reverse switch and the cruise on/off switch. Careful when you pop these open, there's a little spring inside that loves to go flying.

    It was a lot of work, and not an easy add on, but I think my wife is going to love it.
    After 3 rides and a little over 400 miles........

    1. First and foremost, the wife loves it!!!
    2. I changed the gain to Extra Low from what Barry had. It still had a little bit of a surge, and changing this smoothed it out.

    Taking a long trip next weekend, so we'll see how much it helps her on shoulder fatigue.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Always try to positively influence a negative situation. ~author unknown

    Mine: '13 Gray Metallic
    The wife's: '13 F6B Black
    (Double) Darksider #487
    Michelin Alpin (current)
    Battle Axe BT45
    Proud to be a FREE American and I thank the Vets that did it for me!!!

    '08 Titanium Wing
    '79 Yamaha 750 Special
    '78 Honda 750, '72 Honda 350, '73 Suzuki 250, '75 Suzuki 185, '72 Suzuki 90

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    Davenport, IA
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    Regarding the brackets that need to be fabricated. Is there a template or diagram of some kind that can be used for the fabrication? I realize your guys have made this so if there is a price involved that would be understandable. If there is someone that can make one for a price that would be great as well!

    Thanks.

    Darryl

  6. #6
    Senior Member jkelley's Avatar
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    May 2013
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    Western, NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmoon64 View Post
    Regarding the brackets that need to be fabricated. Is there a template or diagram of some kind that can be used for the fabrication? I realize your guys have made this so if there is a price involved that would be understandable. If there is someone that can make one for a price that would be great as well!

    Thanks.

    Darryl
    The brackets are really not that difficult but depend on where, and how you want the control unit mounted. Depending on your chosen location the bracket that comes with the unit can be bent, cut, welded as needed.
    The bracket for the actual cable to the throttle body is as Barry did the dimensions are top hole = 5/16", Bottom hole (that fits over the lever arm) I went with 1/4" hole straight down .750"center to center from the top hole. For the cable mounting hole again I went with .250". This one is clocked about 4:30 and down 1.5" from the top mounting hole. (See Barry's picture.) I actually used a holly throttle arm from Summit as it already had the offset in it and mounted the carb stud Barry listed. I chopped off the threads and tig welded it to the bracket so nothing was sticking out the back side.
    I also used .060 stock with an offset ( holly arm ) a star washer, and the stock nut. Now my weak point tying up the electrical connections.

    For the Rostra cruise control switches I did not use a bracket, I Simply disassembled the switch housing and mounted it in the stock Goldwing location with some 4-40 screws, and ran the wires out of the right switch housing and down the handle bars inside the wire retainer that is already there. Snapped the cover back on and I think it looks great. I still need to seal the unit after testing though. Be sure you mount so that you don't interfere with the start switch......

  7. #7
    Member RT59's Avatar
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    May 2013
    Location
    Ankeny, IA
    Posts
    78
    I have all of the parts needed to install Rostra cruise on my 6. The snow will be flying here soon and I'll have a few months of relatively snowy roads to take on the project.

    I ordered most of my parts from Summit... The shipped to me from two different locations and charged me ten dollars to ship one item that retailed for 1.49... I am a bit disgusted

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