Best stereo upgrade options

[Jimmytee]

Ok, well, the tweeters did the trick, it now sounds really good. I figured out how to mount them where the old ones were located, by cutting away some plastic and securing them with two tiny screws each. Here are a few pics.

Attachment 14283Attachment 14284

Next task is to connect to the head unit pre outs. I had the back open and looked at the back of the head unit but decided to wait for another day. I might just intercept the pre outs there and connect them to the headset outputs, thinking I can avoid running a bunch of cable to the new amp. This way I should get my AVC back. What do you think, Jimmytee?

Glad you got the tweeters hooked up. Was pretty sure that would make a tremendous difference.

I'm not quite sure what you were asking about the pre outs and hooking them up to the headset outputs. The only place to get the audio pre outs from the factory system is from somewhere in the wiring between the Audio Unit and the OEM amplifier. The Audio unit is located under the rubber flap under where the passenger seat is. The amp under the rear fender. If you could clear up what you're asking, I'll try to help.

[SoCal Rich]

Glad you got the tweeters hooked up. Was pretty sure that would make a tremendous difference.

I'm not quite sure what you were asking about the pre outs and hooking them up to the headset outputs. The only place to get the audio pre outs from the factory system is from somewhere in the wiring between the Audio Unit and the OEM amplifier. The Audio unit is located under the rubber flap under where the passenger seat is. The amp under the rear fender. If you could clear up what you're asking, I'll try to help.

So, I was able to see the back of the audio unit and the 24 pin plug and the 20 pin plug. The 24 contains the pre outs to the amp and the 20 contains the outs to the headset cable. So I would intercept the pre outs on the audio unit side and connect them to the headset outputs on the side that leads to the headset plug.

[Jimmytee]

So, I was able to see the back of the audio unit and the 24 pin plug and the 20 pin plug. The 24 contains the pre outs to the amp and the 20 contains the outs to the headset cable. So I would intercept the pre outs on the audio unit side and connect them to the headset outputs on the side that leads to the headset plug.

I would be hesitant to do that. For one thing, the pre out signals of the Audio Unit have separate positive and neg/ground wires where the headsets only have a common for both channels. It may work but it also may not or provide an inferior signal.All we have to go by are the wiring diagrams and schematics. I can't say if in the electronics, the ground or negative portion of the pre out signals would be the same electrically as the ground of the headset outputs.
Personally, I think it would be easier to just wire into the pre outs and then run one cable with the 2 RCAs. You mounted your amp in the fairing correct?

[SoCal Rich]

I would be hesitant to do that. For one thing, the pre out signals of the Audio Unit have separate positive and neg/ground wires where the headsets only have a common for both channels. It may work but it also may not or provide an inferior signal.All we have to go by are the wiring diagrams and schematics. I can't say if in the electronics, the ground or negative portion of the pre out signals would be the same electrically as the ground of the headset outputs.
Personally, I think it would be easier to just wire into the pre outs and then run one cable with the 2 RCAs. You mounted your amp in the fairing correct?

Amp is in the right compartment, easy to get cable to. So, I could just clip the four pre out wires from the audio unit and connect them to 2 RCAs, correct? Seems easier to get to the audio unit than the original amp to grab those four wires.

[Jimmytee]

Amp is in the right compartment, easy to get cable to. So, I could just clip the four pre out wires from the audio unit and connect them to 2 RCAs, correct? Seems easier to get to the audio unit than the original amp to grab those four wires.

It depends on how you define easier. There is more body work parts to remove , but the wires themselves seemed easier to pick out of the harness to the amp. Either way will work. I actually ran four RCAs as I use the rear channels to supply a signal for the sub. I am using the 4 channel amp with the two rear channels bridged for the sub at 175 watts RMS. I will say I had intentions to mount the new amp in the OEM amp location, but after trying it, I wasn't satisfied with it there. Since you know you're not putting it there and if you can get into the harness by the Audio unit to separate the wires you need , then go for it.

[SoCal Rich]

It depends on how you define easier. There is more body work parts to remove , but the wires themselves seemed easier to pick out of the harness to the amp. Either way will work. I actually ran four RCAs as I use the rear channels to supply a signal for the sub. I am using the 4 channel amp with the two rear channels bridged for the sub at 175 watts RMS. I will say I had intentions to mount the new amp in the OEM amp location, but after trying it, I wasn't satisfied with it there. Since you know you're not putting it there and if you can get into the harness by the Audio unit to separate the wires you need , then go for it.

Do you remove a side bag to get to the original amp?

[Jimmytee]

Do you remove a side bag to get to the original amp?

No, but everything in the rear has to come off.

[SoCal Rich]

Amp is in the right compartment, easy to get cable to. So, I could just clip the four pre out wires from the audio unit and connect them to 2 RCAs, correct? Seems easier to get to the audio unit than the original amp to grab those four wires.

Finally got it done! Removed the seat, opened the head unit box. Located the four wires coming out of the head unit (attached to the lower left side plug going into the head unit) and cut them and soldered the leads from the two RCAs so that the RCA plugs are coming from the head unit. Fairly easy to route them to the right side compartment where I have stored the amp.

Very pleased, and very happy to have AVC back again! I feel like the signal is slightly stronger than the one going to the headsets, and I had to reduce the gain adjustment on the amp to get rid of the clipping/distortion. Overall I'm getting slightly more volume.

End of project! Hurray!

[Jimmytee]

Yeah. it's more work, but I think it's the best route for optimum sound. Thanks for the update. Glad it worked out for you.

[seadog]

For less that 100 bucks I put in that Sony NWZ 385 Mp3 player and so far I've loaded 51 CD's on it and the sound is incredible, much better than listening to the FM. You can turn it up high enough to blow you off the bike. I can listen to music at 80 mph without any problem at all. It all really depends on your listening ability though, ears are kind of an important factor in this endeavor. My old ear, after listening to diesel engines for 36 years are definitely not 100%, I have to turn up everything louder than my family likes it.
So if its loud to me then its probably pretty loud to someone with excellent hearing. JMHO