Best stereo upgrade options

[ths61]

FWIW, the DB series is 92dB and 4 Ohms while the MM series is 94db and 2.7 Ohms.

3dB is a doubling of power, but not a doubling of perceived loudness (need @ 10dB for that).

The 2.7 Ohms will also source more power (than the 4 Ohms) through the amp which will also make the speakers sound louder (if the amp is up to the load).

[Jimmytee]

So, I've been able to do my road test, so here is a report:

First, a summary of my installation:
1. Polk DB 5251, no sub woofer, used existing tweeters
2. NVX MVPA4 amp
3. Connected via headset plug

So, the volume is definitely higher than the original. Jimmy measured 2x, but I would guess 1.5x in my case.

AVC no longer works; I'm guessing that AVC only works when speakers are chosen as the output; but not when headset is chosen.

Sound quality is not as good, probably because I did not install a sub woofer.

So, would I do it again knowing what I now know? Jury is still out.
Will I uninstall? Definitely not, I really wanted the extra volume.

Wish it sounded a little bit better, but I'll get used to it.

Sorry your results are less than what you expected. I don't have any ideas for you off the top of my head. Other than the amp, you chose different speakers, installation etc.... It doesn't surprise me that your results would be different.
You chose speakers with a 4 ohm nominal impedance as opposed to the 2.7 ohm of the MM series speakers. This difference alone will mean that you are losing output/volume with the same rated amplifier.
Yes the AVC only works as I have done mine.
Have you turned the gain up on the amplifier?
I have a hard time understanding the sound quality thing. You say you left the stock tweeters in play? I wish you were somewhere near me, I could let you hear mine.
My measured volume was with a sound pressure meter.

[Jimmytee]

Keep in mind, if you've read my thread about the process I went through to get to my results, you should understand that I did the trial and error thing . I attempted easier solutions to reach the desired results and they were unsatisfactory.

I carefully selected the components I used to match. If you change the ingredients in the recipe, you're going to come out with a different flavor.

[SoCal Rich]

Made a mistake . I installed MM5251, not DB. I had considered DBs but decided against. (Just went to verify)

And, no need for apologies, I love tinkering with this stuff, just wanted to share my observations. I really appreciate all the help you gave me.

I used 18 guage speaker wire, too. That should be enough, right?

[SoCal Rich]

I may have to try tapping in between the head unit and the original amplifier. I have a suspicion that it might be a better quality audio source.

[Jimmytee]

Made a mistake . I installed MM5251, not DB. I had considered DBs but decided against. (Just went to verify)

And, no need for apologies, I love tinkering with this stuff, just wanted to share my observations. I really appreciate all the help you gave me.

I used 18 guage speaker wire, too. That should be enough, right?

I would run at least 16 AWG speaker wire. I believe I used 16, possibly 14, but pretty sure it was 16. Trust me, the 18 awg speaker wire is probably a big part of your issue.

Do not use the factory wiring.

If I understood your previous post I have a question. How did you use the existing tweeters and why? That right there is going to be a big no no.

I ran 10 awg wire for the amp, but I had a very short run. If I had installed the amp in the fairing, I may have went with 8 awg. There is an adapter/accessory available for the amp to allow an 8 AWG wire hook up.

[SoCal Rich]

I would run at least 16 AWG speaker wire. I believe I used 16, possibly 14, but pretty sure it was 16. Trust me, the 18 awg speaker wire is probably a big part of your issue.

Do not use the factory wiring.

If I understood your previous post I have a question. How did you use the existing tweeters and why? That right there is going to be a big no no.

I ran 10 awg wire for the amp, but I had a very short run. If I had installed the amp in the fairing, I may have went with 8 awg. There is an adapter/accessory available for the amp to allow an 8 AWG wire hook up.

I used the existing tweeters because I couldn't figure out a good way to mount the new ones. I clipped off the plug that goes into the factory tweeters and wired to the crossover box.

Didn't use any of the existing wiring.

So, it sounds like I have some rewiring to do! Although I'm still a little suspicious that the feed from the head unit to the factory amp might be better quality than the headset output. But, I'm guessing you don't think so, right?

[Jimmytee]

I used the existing tweeters because I couldn't figure out a good way to mount the new ones. I clipped off the plug that goes into the factory tweeters and wired to the crossover box.

Didn't use any of the existing wiring.

So, it sounds like I have some rewiring to do! Although I'm still a little suspicious that the feed from the head unit to the factory amp might be better quality than the headset output. But, I'm guessing you don't think so, right?

Oh, I think it might be possible. Although I did try my system first from the headset and it sounded pretty good.

The factory OEM tweeters are a different impedance. This impedance will affect the crossover points in the crossover. That will definitely have a impact on sound and quality,not to mention just the difference in the quality of the tweeters to begin with.

I removed the factory tweeters and surface mounted the Polk tweeters right over the spot where the factory tweeters normally reside. It required a couple of small holes drilled. one to accommodate the mounting and one for the speaker wire.

The other option is to remove the OEM tweeters. Then remove the Polk tweeters from their plastic case or housing. Then the tweeters can fit up in the OEM spot, but you may have to be a little creative as to how you affix them there. All I know is someone else did them that way. I rather like the looks of the surface mount and it gives you the flexibility to turn the tweeters a little as they do swivel in their housings to aid in pointing them where you want them to be focused.

[SoCal Rich]

Oh, I think it might be possible. Although I did try my system first from the headset and it sounded pretty good.

The factory OEM tweeters are a different impedance. This impedance will affect the crossover points in the crossover. That will definitely have a impact on sound and quality,not to mention just the difference in the quality of the tweeters to begin with.

I removed the factory tweeters and surface mounted the Polk tweeters right over the spot where the factory tweeters normally reside. It required a couple of small holes drilled. one to accommodate the mounting and one for the speaker wire.

The other option is to remove the OEM tweeters. Then remove the Polk tweeters from their plastic case or housing. Then the tweeters can fit up in the OEM spot, but you may have to be a little creative as to how you affix them there. All I know is someone else did them that way. I rather like the looks of the surface mount and it gives you the flexibility to turn the tweeters a little as they do swivel in their housings to aid in pointing them where you want them to be focused.

Sadly I messed up the Polk tweeters trying to remove the casing to try to get them to fit in the space where the original tweeters are! Grrrr.

[Jimmytee]

To be honest, I hadn't even thought of removing the tweeters from their casing until another member here had done it. I wonder if it is possible to order a replacement tweeter?