Torque Loops - Need Reviews

[BIGLRY]

I ran the Torque Loopz with the OEM mufflers on my 2013, the performance was a blast and immediately noticeable while the sound was just a tad deeper than stock, then I installed the Jekill & Hyde electrically adjustable exhaust system in conjunction with the Torque Loopz and the sound is just what I wanted mellow and deep when closed and roars like a Porsche on steroids when I twist up the wick while open.
Here is link to my post of the install of the Jekill & Hyde system and below some pic of the Torque Loopz.
http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?6...-first-startup

I had no problems with the install of the Torque Loopz, but I am a wrench when it comes to working on steel steeds. Take your time... measure twice and cut once an I think anyone can do the Torque Loopz, the worst part IMO is taking off and reinstalling all the tupperware in the proper order.
One thing you have to do if you have a center stand is change where the rubber bump stop is located as you are removing the cats which is where the OEM bump stop is located. What you do is drill a hole in the left heat shield then trim the bump stop rubber on the side to let it seat in the curvature of the heat shield as you push the pointy end into the hole just like it is mounted OEM on the cat, you can see where it goes in the last pic below, this pic was taken before I panted the heat shields Hi-temp flat black(I painted the Torque Loopz Hi-temp silver).
The Torque Loopz install instruction explain this with great pic, in fact the install instructions are very well done with good pic making it a "no guess" install IMO. Another thing I really liked was the all the parts that came with the Torque Loopz including the Torque Loopz were of top notch quality, A1+ welds and made to last the life of the bike.
Would I buy and install them again?... HELL YA

Side Note: Jimmy Sones the owner of "Torq Master Pipes" http://www.torqmasterpipes.com/f6b%20honda.html
will not sell or ship Torque Loopz in CALIF. even though they are made right here in southern CALIF. as they are not C.A.R.B. compliant since you are removing the Cats.
I had my daughter in UT. order them and then when I took my yearly road trip to Ogden I pick them up at her house.


Performance wise....well let's just say I doubt any OEM F6B will out accelerate me in a straight line as long as they are carrying the same weight as me (400lbs).

[Hornblower]

BIGLRY--You're obviously more of a "wrench" than I am. Looking at your pics, I have one observation and one question. First, I see that you oriented the front clamp with the bolt head inboard. Having done this installation, I understand why you did that. OTOH, I don't think it's particularly intuitive to do it that way and I don't recall seeing any pics in the installation manual showing it that way. I was successful mounting that clamp with the bolt head outboard but pointing down. As I recall, doing it this way did cause a slight bulge in the lower bottom cover (just on the right side) but not a huge problem.

For my question...I didn't have any luck with the gasket maker Jimmy provides for sealing the front joint. When I first had leaks and had to reinstall, I bought some real muffler sealer to use and that seemed to work much better. The only other difficulty I had was the gaskets provided in the kit. IMHO, they are too short but that said, if you're really careful not to let them slide in too far, they can work satisfactorily. On my reinstall, I doubled up on those gaskets and that made the installation more fool proof. Any comments on these things you'd like to offer?

[BIGLRY]

BIGLRY--You're obviously more of a "wrench" than I am. Looking at your pics, I have one observation and one question. First, I see that you oriented the front clamp with the bolt head inboard. Having done this installation, I understand why you did that. OTOH, I don't think it's particularly intuitive to do it that way and I don't recall seeing any pics in the installation manual showing it that way. I was successful mounting that clamp with the bolt head outboard but pointing down. As I recall, doing it this way did cause a slight bulge in the lower bottom cover (just on the right side) but not a huge problem. The pic are the first set up, I ended up changing the position of the clamps several times before settling on the final position as not to have the "slight bulge" and for ease of re-tighten if needed with everything together.

For my question...I didn't have any luck with the gasket maker Jimmy provides for sealing the front joint. When I first had leaks and had to reinstall, I bought some real muffler sealer to use and that seemed to work much better. The only other difficulty I had was the gaskets provided in the kit. IMHO, they are too short but that said, if you're really careful not to let them slide in too far, they can work satisfactorily. On my reinstall, I doubled up on those gaskets and that made the installation more fool proof. Any comments on these things you'd like to offer?
Placement of the gasket is crucial...to far in and they will leak... same with to far out along with the clamps position over the slots. I changed out the rear clamps when I installed the Jekill & Hyde system as their SS, allen head muffler clamps are very heavy duty so you can really crank down on them(upper left in pic) I also use a torque wrench to set the clamps and did it several times and once after getting the system hot then letting it cool down before a re-torque which is what I suggest when tightening any fasteners that get hot on an exhaust system i.e. header nuts and such.

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