Steve, I found this thread in the sena forum: https://support.sena.com/entries/204...y-replacement-
Of interest is a post by member 308 who offers battery replacement.
If you're comfortable spending the money on a new system I'm sure you'll love it, but if you can determine if it's the battery you can hold out a little longer.
Does your headset light up at all when you plug it in? Most electronics that use li-ion batteries have intelligent charging systems to prevent over-charging and to keep you from charging a battery that is below a safe voltage level. That level is a point of much debate, but if it gets too low and you try to charge it there is a lot of heat generated and unlucky users will experience "Venting, with Flame". That's an industry euphemism for exploding.
One of the posters in the above thread said it is simple to open the unit and replace the battery. You could open it up, remove battery and test resting voltage. If it's below, oh.. lets say 2.7V (for fun, as mentioned there is much discussion on this) it is probably shot and your unit refuses to charge it. Having access to the battery would allow you to get numbers and dimensions off of it and see if you can find a replacement. Sena is not in the battery business so it's probably something they bought off the shelf which means you can too!
Oh shit, forget everything I've just said. I read a little further and the helpful folks posted this:
"It's possible to replace the battery in the field. The initial investment is simple: soldering pencil and /rosin core/ solder (never, ever use acid core for any wiring!), wire strippers for fine gauge wire, T7 Torx driver. I found a T7 Torx bit in a $6 USD collection of small flat blade, phillips, etc. bits and handle from Lowe's. The electrical stuff should be there, too. Or there's always Amazon or eBay. The battery can be found on eBay for under $10 USD. Use the 602448 number as the guide. It'll be a 3.7V Li-Po battery. Do /not/ go for a bigger battery - there is almost no spare room inside the SMH-10.
Opening the case is easy: undo the screws with the Torx driver and gently encourage the back to come out of the SMH-10 housing. Do not try prying with anything - ding the case and the SMH-10 case won't have a hope of keeping out water. There is a gasket around the edge of the back of the SMH-10. Be nice to it as it's the water seal. Here's the bad news: the new battery will not have the little while Molex connector the OEM battery does. You have to cut the connector off (in the middle of the wiring, of course) and solder it onto the new battery. This isn't difficult but it helps to be comfortable with soldering before doing this job. With the wires soldered and insulated (hint: stagger the cuts so the joints can short out), put the battery in place and close up the case. It's that simple. Another do-not: Do not grease the seal with petroleum jelly (Vaseline, etc.)! Use a silicon-based grease (di-electric grease will do - get some at an auto parts store). Finally: OPENING THE CASE VOIDS YOUR WARRANTY!!! But if you're good with soldering, and don't want to either wait for a repair or buy a replacement module, this is the way to go. "
Dig around on that thread, it's a gold mine!
If you need help replacing it I was weaned on a soldering iron and I'm in your area.
All of this is moot if your unit is actually broken. Either way, let me know if I can help.
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