Audio enhancement perma-grin style

[F6Pilot]

I also wound up with a pair of Hertz HV165 that I could not make fit. Unless I come up with another use for them, they will likely be sold. I was able to successfully dismantle a second tweeter and get it into the stock position.

Attachment 25010

[CoCoKola]

What hang up did you encounter? By mounting the speakers at far to the top as possible, with the mats and a 1/2" riser, mounted upside down (connections facing up) it fit. Virgin tight. I had to also get spring nuts and longer bolts cut to length.

[F6Pilot]

The 5.25" are going to be just fine. These are the big 6.5" and they are massive. The baskets are so deep they won't even fit in the stock opening.

[F6Pilot]

Well, I just came in from chasing wires all evening and I think I have it figured out. Man that FSM can be confusing at times. Anyway, after pulling the back end apart and chasing connectors, I located the 20P Gray connector running down to the amp (this is not to be confused with the 20P Gray connector on the back of the audio unit since the wire colors don't match ). Anyway, now that the preamp signal wires have been located, I will try to identify the best place to tap/splice into said wires and get the signal routed down to the new amp. Im going to study the schematics a little more but I may just disconnect the whole factory amp to eliminate unnecessary drain on the electrical system. I will first need to confirm nothing necessary routes through for any other purpose.

[Jimmytee]

Well, I just came in from chasing wires all evening and I think I have it figured out. Man that FSM can be confusing at times. Anyway, after pulling the back end apart and chasing connectors, I located the 20P Gray connector running down to the amp (this is not to be confused with the 20P Gray connector on the back of the audio unit since the wire colors don't match ). Anyway, now that the preamp signal wires have been located, I will try to identify the best place to tap/splice into said wires and get the signal routed down to the new amp. Im going to study the schematics a little more but I may just disconnect the whole factory amp to eliminate unnecessary drain on the electrical system. I will first need to confirm nothing necessary routes through for any other purpose.

When I did mine, I removed the factory amp, cut the wiring harness from the amp at about the half way point. Then I just chose the wires I needed and made my splices, Solder and heat shrink. If I for some reason wanted to restore the factory amp, I would simply splice the wires back to the harness. Since then, I removed all the factory audio and went all after market though.

[F6Pilot]

At present I don't anticipate any need to remove it completely since the space isn't sealed and really not big enough to utilize. I can see how that works for you having removed all stock components. I have traced the stock amplifier power and ground back to the Power Amp relay under the seat. I believe I will simply remove the relay effectively taking he stock amp out of the loop completely and just splice the four lines I need for peaked inputs.

[Jimmytee]

At present I don't anticipate any need to remove it completely since the space isn't sealed and really not big enough to utilize. I can see how that works for you having removed all stock components. I have traced the stock amplifier power and ground back to the Power Amp relay under the seat. I believe I will simply remove the relay effectively taking he stock amp out of the loop completely and just splice the four lines I need for peaked inputs.

I just felt it was easier and in the end cleaner to remove the amp. I originally utilized the power from the relay for the amp as the turn on source/trigger for my aftermarket amp. After replacing the front end equipment also, I no longer use that either since the new front end had it's own switched power to trigger amps.