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Thread: Audio enhancement perma-grin style

  1. #91
    Senior Member Jimmytee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by F6Pilot View Post
    Well, I just came in from chasing wires all evening and I think I have it figured out. Man that FSM can be confusing at times. Anyway, after pulling the back end apart and chasing connectors, I located the 20P Gray connector running down to the amp (this is not to be confused with the 20P Gray connector on the back of the audio unit since the wire colors don't match ). Anyway, now that the preamp signal wires have been located, I will try to identify the best place to tap/splice into said wires and get the signal routed down to the new amp. Im going to study the schematics a little more but I may just disconnect the whole factory amp to eliminate unnecessary drain on the electrical system. I will first need to confirm nothing necessary routes through for any other purpose.


    When I did mine, I removed the factory amp, cut the wiring harness from the amp at about the half way point. Then I just chose the wires I needed and made my splices, Solder and heat shrink. If I for some reason wanted to restore the factory amp, I would simply splice the wires back to the harness. Since then, I removed all the factory audio and went all after market though.
    "Go sell crazy somewhere else, we're all stocked up"

  2. #92
    Senior Member F6Pilot's Avatar
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    At present I don't anticipate any need to remove it completely since the space isn't sealed and really not big enough to utilize. I can see how that works for you having removed all stock components. I have traced the stock amplifier power and ground back to the Power Amp relay under the seat. I believe I will simply remove the relay effectively taking he stock amp out of the loop completely and just splice the four lines I need for peaked inputs.

  3. #93
    Senior Member Jimmytee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by F6Pilot View Post
    At present I don't anticipate any need to remove it completely since the space isn't sealed and really not big enough to utilize. I can see how that works for you having removed all stock components. I have traced the stock amplifier power and ground back to the Power Amp relay under the seat. I believe I will simply remove the relay effectively taking he stock amp out of the loop completely and just splice the four lines I need for peaked inputs.
    I just felt it was easier and in the end cleaner to remove the amp. I originally utilized the power from the relay for the amp as the turn on source/trigger for my aftermarket amp. After replacing the front end equipment also, I no longer use that either since the new front end had it's own switched power to trigger amps.
    "Go sell crazy somewhere else, we're all stocked up"

  4. #94
    Senior Member F6Pilot's Avatar
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    So I can use the brown wire coming off of the factory amp relay to trigger my Arc Audio amp? I assume in that scenario the amp would only come on when the radio is turned on? I had considered running it off of the acc connection at the fuse panel but that would have it on constantly whether the radio was on or not.

  5. #95
    Senior Member Papa Tater's Avatar
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    Im going to be doing something similar on upgrading system soon. I will be eliminating the factory amp out of the loop. I tapping into the pre amp signals also. I originally just wanted to just unplug that big square connector at the factory amp and find a connector to just plug in and make my own harness to my amp-etc. Without having to splice into the harness, after a lot exhaustion cannot find a plug at all- the only way that you can get it from Honda is with an amp. I don't want to cut my pigtail coming of my factory amp, I case I ever want to go back to stock. If you or even others on here are just going to throw away or sell very cheap, I could use a donor amp for the pigtail with connector. I think I will be going the posi taps at the wiring from just out of the preamp (just for the front and rear channels) and just unplug the factory amp and leave it in place.
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  6. #96
    Senior Member Jimmytee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa Tater View Post
    Im going to be doing something similar on upgrading system soon. I will be eliminating the factory amp out of the loop. I tapping into the pre amp signals also. I originally just wanted to just unplug that big square connector at the factory amp and find a connector to just plug in and make my own harness to my amp-etc. Without having to splice into the harness, after a lot exhaustion cannot find a plug at all- the only way that you can get it from Honda is with an amp. I don't want to cut my pigtail coming of my factory amp, I case I ever want to go back to stock. If you or even others on here are just going to throw away or sell very cheap, I could use a donor amp for the pigtail with connector. I think I will be going the posi taps at the wiring from just out of the preamp (just for the front and rear channels) and just unplug the factory amp and leave it in place.
    If you cut the pigtail about half way , you would have plenty left to resplice in case you decided to reverse. No, I researched the plugs and only source was to buy in bulk. When I say bulk , I mean like spending thousands.
    "Go sell crazy somewhere else, we're all stocked up"

  7. #97
    Senior Member Jimmytee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by F6Pilot View Post
    So I can use the brown wire coming off of the factory amp relay to trigger my Arc Audio amp? I assume in that scenario the amp would only come on when the radio is turned on? I had considered running it off of the acc connection at the fuse panel but that would have it on constantly whether the radio was on or not.
    Yes. That's what I originally did until I decided to change the head unit too. I believe it was brown. Been awhile.
    "Go sell crazy somewhere else, we're all stocked up"

  8. #98
    Senior Member CoCoKola's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmytee View Post
    Yes. That's what I originally did until I decided to change the head unit too. I believe it was brown. Been awhile.
    Brown is the relay power and works well for the switched power. There are two brown wires actually, they both go to the amp relay rated for 20A. I did as JimmyT did, cut the cable as it can be resoldered or use the posilocks.

  9. #99
    Senior Member F6Pilot's Avatar
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    That will be my path as well. I've got everything opened up and ready to go. The baffles and posi connectors will be here tomorrow which will allow me to button up the front end. I took a break from audio today and installed switchback bulbs in the rear turn signals per VP8s post. Always another project....

  10. #100
    Senior Member F6Pilot's Avatar
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    I'm back into it tonight. The baffles arrived allowing me to proceed with installing the 5.25" in the adapters and get that portion buttoned up. Next on the agenda is to begin test fitting the dash and grills to determine what if any trimming might be necessary.

    More to come...

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