Originally Posted by 53driver
We had to reschedule. I'm calling them tomorrow, as I haven't heard back.
We had to reschedule. I'm calling them tomorrow, as I haven't heard back.
I like your usernameI am in St.Louis MO. I have been out of work for a while, so I have availability to do installs.
-Robert
Spoke with the power to be, and there won't be a possibility of a partnership at this time allowing discounts.
I did find an alternative product that may be a way to get similar results, is smaller in form factor, and several hundred dollars less. Match pp82DSP They have a touch-screen and/or wired remote as well.
Copy all. Any new word on the speakers?
And yes, I'm still all in!
My girls:
Isleen - 2014 F6BD
Saorla - 1995 FLSTN Heritage Special
"Politeness, n: The most acceptable hypocrisy."
Ambrose Bierce
I'm right with you. 11-12 while cruising and back it off to talk at stops. The bikes around me here it fine also.
A lot has to do with the windshield also. I hear it better running a 13" Cee Bailey than with a 14" Klock.
I live in St Louis and would like to know the final price?
Steve
Ok, I've started the audio project. Mounted the Arc Audio amp in the left saddlebag and started on the speakers. While taking measurements, I decided the HT25 tweeter would fit in the stock tweeter position if I removed the grill.
The first grill came off without a hitch.....the second....Houston, we have a problem. Yes, the actual tweeter separated from the back housing. I'm now curious about the two wires which appeared to be attached to nothing and simply tucked under the speaker. I know that can't be right but neither have any sign of solder.
While I await resolution for the tweeter issue, I decided to go ahead and work on the mids. I cut some spacers from 1/2" HDPE and utilized the stock speaker screws to mount the spacers to the dash.
Attachment 24947 Attachment 24948 Attachment 24949 Attachment 24950
Tomorrow I will start running a pair of 14/4 wires from the speakers back to the amp.
It's been a really tough year, and this month has been the straw breaking the camel's back. I've not had much time to document/follow along, but there is light at the end of the tunnel. I would take a meter and touch anything/everything that MIGHT be a connection point and measure resistance. I'm betting you can find where those leads were connected...
I'm pleased to see you are making progress, and I look forward to hearing your opinion. Frankly, the Audison really makes the difference between good and great. It seems if you don't mind warranty possibly being a challenge, you can buy the 8.9 Audison for 1/2 what I paid for it.
Earlier, I mentioned the Audison has a de-EQ that allows it to compensate for any "EQ"ing that the head unit does to the output. It's pretty simple, you play an included CD through your head unit, and it measures each channel against an expected output level for each frequency. It builds a curve that is inserted at the beginning of the processing chain. You set bass/treble to 0, turn off the bass boost, volume compensation etc for the test. I used the AUX input connected to a CD player.
Here is what it showed. Notice everything below 100Hz is dumped, the "bass boost" where the stock can push some low end between 100Hz and 500Hz, the strange boost about 1k, and the highs that seem to roll off. This should be as close to a straight line between the left and right sides of the measurement.
Attachment 24966
More to come..
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