Audio enhancement perma-grin style

[CoCoKola]

I'm glad to hear it will help you!

You will need to splice the first four lines in the chart above. The tip of the rca is the positive and the shield is the negative. Depending on the amp you buy, you will need to purchase twisted RCA cable (such as the mvp4 or and audison amp) or coaxial rca cable. It matters so you don't end up with engine noise or ground loop issues. The cost is about the same. Check your manual to see which kind is needed, or check with your supplier.

Share
https://youtu.be/QOagVDZLQnA

As far as a converter, as long as you tap between the head head unit and the amp, you are getting a low level rca level. It's actually below the standard voltage level for rca, but most amps have enough sensitivity adjustment to make up for the difference. You may need to get a line driver to add additional gain, or if you run into a problem like Jimmy where there is distortion due to the differences.

I can recommend a couple products that can help. The best option is a dsp unit that costs bucks, but would give you most of what you are missing not having the Audison total eq compensation and time alignment. For another day..

Cheers!

[F6Pilot]

I finished a little more electrical work today. I got the crossovers wired up and secured with zip ties in the right cubby. In the future I would like to create a more permanent mount/platform for this part of the project. I also soldered in a weatherproof connector for the gear indicator and remounted the gauge cluster. Im really considering taking another tweeter apart so it can be mounted in the stock position. Now that I know what to look for, I believe I can get the grill removed without further incident. If I do experience another malfunction I can always put the first tweeter back together and surface mount the pair.

[willtill]

I finished a little more electrical work today. I got the crossovers wired up and secured with zip ties in the right cubby. In the future I would like to create a more permanent mount/platform for this part of the project. I also soldered in a weatherproof connector for the gear indicator and remounted the gauge cluster.

Oh! Oh! Oh! You mean that you ere able to fit the GI Pro Indicator behind the plastic on the gauge cluster? It actually has enough room to be mounted there?

I do have cruise control though.. the indicator lights for it would be obscured in that position you had put yours. Wondering if there would be enough to move it to the left; between the bezels of the Speedometer and Tachometer gauges?

[F6Pilot]

Yes, there is room in the cluster all of the way across. I simply placed mine to the left of the high beam indicator. The clear cover comes off with screws and you simply dremel some notches to route the wire out of the cluster. Be aware that the outer sheathing on the indicator cable is very soft and susceptible to being cut by any sharp edge.

[CoCoKola]

I'm looking forward to hearing your impressions of the speakers, and a recap of what you had installed previously for comparison. What a Christmas gift for yourself!

[F6Pilot]

Yeah, I'm anxious to get it done but was "reminded" today that I have all winter...

My progression as shown below has been stock, J&M, JBL, and now Hertz.

[F6Pilot]

I also wound up with a pair of Hertz HV165 that I could not make fit. Unless I come up with another use for them, they will likely be sold. I was able to successfully dismantle a second tweeter and get it into the stock position.

Attachment 25010

[CoCoKola]

What hang up did you encounter? By mounting the speakers at far to the top as possible, with the mats and a 1/2" riser, mounted upside down (connections facing up) it fit. Virgin tight. I had to also get spring nuts and longer bolts cut to length.

[F6Pilot]

The 5.25" are going to be just fine. These are the big 6.5" and they are massive. The baskets are so deep they won't even fit in the stock opening.

[F6Pilot]

Well, I just came in from chasing wires all evening and I think I have it figured out. Man that FSM can be confusing at times. Anyway, after pulling the back end apart and chasing connectors, I located the 20P Gray connector running down to the amp (this is not to be confused with the 20P Gray connector on the back of the audio unit since the wire colors don't match ). Anyway, now that the preamp signal wires have been located, I will try to identify the best place to tap/splice into said wires and get the signal routed down to the new amp. Im going to study the schematics a little more but I may just disconnect the whole factory amp to eliminate unnecessary drain on the electrical system. I will first need to confirm nothing necessary routes through for any other purpose.