speaker up grade and sub

[Jimmytee]

I must have some bad juju..

Only installed one, I had more vent space than you did on the one. I will just add more I suppose. It was worse when I had the driver facing the frogzskin. It was vibrating with the air movement; as if the frogskin was not allowing enough air to move and the air pressure moved the skin as well.

thanks J!

I have three vents and the bass is loud with the bags closed. Never had any of the vibrating issues. You need more vents.
One of mine faces the rear wheel, one of them vents to just behind the left side cover and under the seat and then one is visible. The addition of the one that is visible really aids in hearing the low frequecy information while riding down the road.
Port.jpgPort2.jpg

[CoCoKola]

I have three vents and the bass is loud with the bags closed. Never had any of the vibrating issues. You need more vents.
One of mine faces the rear wheel, one of them vents to just behind the left side cover and under the seat and then one is visible. The addition of the one that is visible really aids in hearing the low frequecy information while riding down the road.
Attachment 22587Attachment 22588

Cool, so did you completely cut out the inner diameter? From the pic, it looks like you have installed it from the outside, or is that ring something else? Finally, i see the one firing towards the front , but not understanding where the one i think you are calling visable?

Thanks team!

[Jimmytee]

Cool, so did you completely cut out the inner diameter? From the pic, it looks like you have installed it from the outside, or is that ring something else? Finally, i see the one firing towards the front , but not understanding where the one i think you are calling visable?

Thanks team!

That is a Vent tube sourced from Parts Express
I believe it was this one or very close.
http://www.parts-express.com/speaker...x-1-l--260-323

I trimmed down the depth, cut the hole of that area in the side cover with a hole saw. Then glued the port in place. The port is only in the portion attached as part of the side cover. The actual "vent" is behind there made with several small holes drilled in a honeycomb pattern within the confines of a circle. The vent is in the actual saddlebag behind the port that is glued into the side cover.

[Jimmytee]

You can feel the air moving with quite a bit of force if you put your hand down in front of that vent. And that's with three vents. That vent helps to put bass into the air envelope behind the fairing while moving.

[CoCoKola]

After doing more research, it seems to get the best experience, mounting the sub directly to the saddlebag is the way to go. I am talking to a shop who can fabricate a plate. This uses the entire bag as a sealed enclosure to improve the response.

I have the JL sub strapped to my passenger seat with the sub, and although it sounds good, it is far from the results I would like to achieve. I'm going to try a separate sub amp first to see if an AB class amp driven 1.25x to 1.5x the RMS power for the w3v3 6/5" wakes up the sub. If it does, then mount it with the amp and be happy. If not, a 8" w3v3 or look at the w7v3 sub - although I need to find a class g/H amp @ 500 RMS+ to drive it. My tops sound pretty good, but again not quite the clarity I need. It's nice to turn up to 13 on the bike and hear the music rocking.

[Jimmytee]

After doing more research, it seems to get the best experience, mounting the sub directly to the saddlebag is the way to go. I am talking to a shop who can fabricate a plate. This uses the entire bag as a sealed enclosure to improve the response.

I have the JL sub strapped to my passenger seat with the sub, and although it sounds good, it is far from the results I would like to achieve. I'm going to try a separate sub amp first to see if an AB class amp driven 1.25x to 1.5x the RMS power for the w3v3 6/5" wakes up the sub. If it does, then mount it with the amp and be happy. If not, a 8" w3v3 or look at the w7v3 sub - although I need to find a class g/H amp @ 500 RMS+ to drive it. My tops sound pretty good, but again not quite the clarity I need. It's nice to turn up to 13 on the bike and hear the music rocking.

I asssume you are talking about mounting the sub facing the rear wheel then? My original plans involved installing 2 subs , one in each bag, facing the rear wheel. I started planning it out and came across the JL AUdio sub and thought I'd try that first. The thing about facing the sub though to the rear wheel is that I'm sure you will get great bass while parked. I was just concerned , after all the work it would have been, how much of the bass would be audible while riding down the road. All I can say is, I've been very pleased with how my set up works. Definitely look forward to your outcome.

[CoCoKola]

I asssume you are talking about mounting the sub facing the rear wheel then? ... Definitely look forward to your outcome.

Yes Jimmytee, thank you for blazing the trail! I added the additional ports and it does sound amazing compared to where we started.

I wired the sub inputs to the rear channels to enable the use of front-rear fader. I can hear the sub riding and stopped, but the gain structure to get there requires about 5 clicks fade to rear with the input gain for the sub mono channel set nearly at maximum. My personal preference for subs is a sealed enclosure, and using a" ported port" surely is limiting the maximum output. Is it limiting it by 1% or 30%,I don't know.


Cheers all!
Robert

[Jimmytee]

Yes Jimmytee, thank you for blazing the trail! I added the additional ports and it does sound amazing compared to where we started.

I wired the sub inputs to the rear channels to enable the use of front-rear fader. I can hear the sub riding and stopped, but the gain structure to get there requires about 5 clicks fade to rear with the input gain for the sub mono channel set nearly at maximum. My personal preference for subs is a sealed enclosure, and using a" ported port" surely is limiting the maximum output. Is it limiting it by 1% or 30%,I don't know.


Cheers all!
Robert

I was not at all happy using the speaker level outputs. I had much better results all around. I mean much better is an inderstatement, intercepting the pre out signals from the "Audio Unit". However, I no longer have the "Audio Unit" on my bike as all of my audio system is aftermarket now. Will you have yours done for the Rally? I hope.

[CoCoKola]

I was not at all happy using the speaker level outputs. I had much better results all around. I mean much better is an inderstatement, intercepting the pre out signals from the "Audio Unit". However, I no longer have the "Audio Unit" on my bike as all of my audio system is aftermarket now. Will you have yours done for the Rally? I hope.

I also removed the stock amplifier. During installation, I used twisted pair rca cables, and I was surprised by the amount of cross talk and how front levels were affected when rear inputs were added- which made me wonder if shielded rca should be used. I verified with manufacturer and measured the resistance from the head unit and ground, determined twisted was correct.

I was tempted to use the two brown power lines of the relay that showed 40amp fuse for something, but ended up capping it off.also the supplied velcro for mounting the amp didn't hold up to the heat, but that's fine as it will be resold.

I am targeting having it completed for the week prior to the rally for Ozark bike week. Ten days of riding and I'll want to hear tunes pumping! Looking forward to meeting you and the rest of the team!

[Jimmytee]

I also removed the stock amplifier. During installation, I used twisted pair rca cables, and I was surprised by the amount of cross talk and how front levels were affected when rear inputs were added- which made me wonder if shielded rca should be used. I verified with manufacturer and measured the resistance from the head unit and ground, determined twisted was correct.

I was tempted to use the two brown power lines of the relay that showed 40amp fuse for something, but ended up capping it off.also the supplied velcro for mounting the amp didn't hold up to the heat, but that's fine as it will be resold.

I am targeting having it completed for the week prior to the rally for Ozark bike week. Ten days of riding and I'll want to hear tunes pumping! Looking forward to meeting you and the rest of the team!

I used that 40 amp circuit initially as the trigger source for turning on my aftermarket amps. Since installing the the Clarion source unit though, the trigger now comes from that. My 2 amplifiers are fed from a 4 awg wire directly from the battery that goes to a small distrubution block where 2 very short 10 awg wires feed each of the amps.