FWIW, Amazon and Crutchfield is having 44% off of Infinity Kappa 6.5" speakers. They just fit the dash depth wise and need just a small about of bezel trimming to fit. Normally $170/pair, now $100/pair. Probably going to pick up a 2nd pair at this price to add to the rear tour pack.
https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Kapp.../dp/B009GHQX5O
Would these increase overall volume or just add clarity? Better lows? What are the advantages over stock? I read a thread a while back about some JBL speakers I believe. How do these speakers compare to those?
Thanks for the info.
Save a biker........Open your f-ing eyes!! (and get off your phone)
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I am running an amp and tried the JBL's that everyone was buying. They sounded nice, but I blew them pretty quickly with the amp. These Infinity's have been very popular among HD riders for speaker upgrades. They are not on par with the mid/upper lines of Hertz, HAT and Focal, but cost a fraction of the price.Originally Posted by P.Sutton
They are louder (with amp) and are a bit brighter which works better when used with highway noise, loud pipes and full face helmets. They handle more power than the JBL's and use about all of the depth in the front F6B speaker pods. Due to the shape of the back of the front speaker pods, they fit only one way. They do require some trimming on the bezel like what the JBL's did.
The F6B has dual cavity front speaker pods. I added poly fill to the second cavity which seemed to help enhance the bottom end. My amp is 180wpc x 4 and I still have to watch the volume level with these speakers. They handle more than the JBL's, but won't handle the entire 180wpc.
HTH
Here are a couple of picts to get an idea of required bezel trimming:
Thanks for the info! It doesn’t look any more difficult than the JBL to install.I am running an amp and tried the JBL's that everyone was buying. They sounded nice, but I blew them pretty quickly with the amp. These Infinity's have been very popular among HD riders for speaker upgrades. They are not on par with the mid/upper lines of Hertz, HAT and Focal, but cost a fraction of the price.
They are louder (with amp) and are a bit brighter which works better when used with highway noise, loud pipes and full face helmets. They handle more power than the JBL's and use about all of the depth in the front F6B speaker pods. Due to the shape of the back of the front speaker pods, they fit only one way. They do require some trimming on the bezel like what the JBL's did.
The F6B has dual cavity front speaker pods. I added poly fill to the second cavity which seemed to help enhance the bottom end. My amp is 180wpc x 4 and I still have to watch the volume level with these speakers. They handle more than the JBL's, but won't handle the entire 180wpc.
HTH
Here are a couple of picts to get an idea of required bezel trimming:
Not sure I want to go through the trouble of adding an amplifier. What amp are you using?
Biketronics BT-4180. They have lifetime guarantees on their amps.
I tapped into the preamp outs that went into the OEM amp, added RCAs, disabled the OEM amp and ran new speaker wires.
I installed these speakers this weekend. They sound A LOT better than the stock speakers. Even looking at them compared to stock there's a big difference. The speakers sound clearer and richer and the best part is they sound better the more you turn them up, as opposed the stock one's starting to distort at higher volumes. I'm using the stock amp also. I think it's a worthwhile investment for someone looking for a speaker upgrade.
Thanks for the info ths61, I was considering which speaker to buy just as you posted those.
Save a biker........Open your f-ing eyes!! (and get off your phone)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Glad to hear you like them and a great price.
Thanks for the heads up on these ths61-- just ordered. Curious about your (or Ghostrider's) bezel trim technique. Any tricks or advice you can share?
I learned on the metal GTO's that I later fried. You only have to shave a little off on the left and right sides. You do not have to go all the way to where the webbing ring is started to be glued. Try to leave a little gap between the edge of the web and the trim. Take a little off and see if it fits. Don't expect to push them straight in. You will have to tilt them a little to get past the outer metal dash frame lip and the clear gauge cluster cover, then level them out. Take your time.
I think I used a rotozip with a cutting wheel when I trimmed mine. Use some painters tape to keep the cuttings out of the speaker. Make sure the speaker is secured so you can focus hands on controlling your cutting tool and don't heat up the base too much.
Also, be careful not to lose the rubber encased nuts when you put the screws back in. They will push out of the back and could get lost, so make sure you thread the screws gently without pushing down. Don't ask me how I know. They can get lost easily and are a PITA to put back in because you have to remove the metal bezel to reseat them.
You may also have to make the mounting holes in the speaker slightly larger. I forget if I had to do that or not.
Also, if memory serves, the speakers only go in one way due to the shape of the back of the speaker and speaker boot. Compare the back of the speaker to the speaker boot before you choose what part of the speaker to trim.
You will also need to make some pigtails because these have screw terminals versus spade connectors.
Take a look at the pictures that I posted. I actually trimmed more than I needed to.
I also put some polyester batting in the extra lobes of the speaker enclosure that I had left over from another speaker project. It seemed to help the bass response a bit. The speaker enclosure has 2 extra lobes of which one is ported.
HTH
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