extra power supplies for radar detect and phone etc

[Mark AC]

i am ready to add some much needed power outlets for radar detector and phone charging , any help in what to use and where best spots to install plugs etc ?
anything to watch out for ? any help or advice much appreciated

p.s i already have grip warmers already installed

cheers mark

[pdxstriper]

Hi,
I ran 'circuitry' up the left side of the bike from a switched line in the fuse box and then across to the sealed cubby on the right side. There I mounted a dual plug USB socket to power, in my case, iPhone and Garmin. From there it's not difficult to route wires around to wherever you mount the devices.

Now circuitry can be a pair of wires, but in my case, I also wanted to add power for heated gear and future farkles. So in said right side cubby I mounted a circuit box by Eastern Beaver (http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html). At the time, some on this forum suggested that an additional fuse box should be mounted under the seat. I like the right side cubby as it is much easier to get to than removing the #%@$@ seat should I need to replace a fuse (Which I never have had to do).

I know this sounds like a lot of work but it isn't. I used 3M tape to mount the fuse box to the cubby cover itself. Clean install and works great.

Pete

[Mark AC]

Hi,
I ran 'circuitry' up the left side of the bike from a switched line in the fuse box and then across to the sealed cubby on the right side. There I mounted a dual plug USB socket to power, in my case, iPhone and Garmin. From there it's not difficult to route wires around to wherever you mount the devices.

Now circuitry can be a pair of wires, but in my case, I also wanted to add power for heated gear and future farkles. So in said right side cubby I mounted a circuit box by Eastern Beaver (http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html). At the time, some on this forum suggested that an additional fuse box should be mounted under the seat. I like the right side cubby as it is much easier to get to than removing the #%@$@ seat should I need to replace a fuse (Which I never have had to do).

I know this sounds like a lot of work but it isn't. I used 3M tape to mount the fuse box to the cubby cover itself. Clean install and works great.

Pete

Thanks Pete appreciate your input , sounds like a plan I can follow , cheers

[Indian Express]

I don't own an F6B yet. Just lurking on the site trying to familiarize myself with the bike. On my Honda ST I have three Powerlet Outlets one up front and two under the seat for heated gear. These are connected to an FZ1 fuse box ( very similar to Eastern Beaver PC8) Are there any preferred or suggested locations for installing/mounting the Powerlet outlets on the F6B?

[2wheelsforme]

I ran both switched and unswitched fused wires up the left side of bike, coat hanger will fish them behind tank and out in front of tank. Then down the front and back into the area under the left cubby, plenty of room under the box and easy to get back to the bars or right side. Then you can do anything you need and not have to go back to battery. My battery tender and headed gear are not fed from up past the gas tank but direct from battery and closer to the seat. Heated gear in front of seat and tender in the hole in front of the left bag.

[Steve 0080]

I currently am running 5...mix of USB and Cigar and Battery hook ups. You can never have enough.

[MisterB]

There are so many ways to do this, after screwing around with remote switched distribution points and all sorts of ideas I went with the easiest.
My needs were simply for electronics, not heated gear.
The manual says to increase the ACC fuse to 10A when installing the cubby plug so we know that is a safe move.
On the fuse block left side there is a screw terminal and exit point for running 2 wires out. I ran a hot and ground off the box and fished them up through the left side of the tank with the other wires. I used some braided cable loom to protect it, electrical tape would also work.
Terminated with 4x waterproof plugs that are easily accessible from beside the cubby.
If I'm pulling 120 watts and pop the fuse then there is a short. Charging phone, GPS, and radar detector will be way less than 10A, I checked the specs on my devices and added them up, nowhere near 10A.
Consider: my fantastic 5.1A USB charger does not draw 5.1A, it draws a little more than 26Watts or a little over 2A at the fuse. The 5.1A rating is at 5V. It rapidly charges my iphone and has no problem keeping the GPS going. Radar detectors typically draw less than 1/2A.
Anywho, everyone has different needs, this worked for me.

Here's (hopefully) a pic of the install and my charger/compressor pigtail:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4238/35660645896_388591e4a0_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wkd8Cm)IMG_1333 (https://flic.kr/p/Wkd8Cm) by MrBlum (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24309977@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4208/35660651596_d104ba0c03_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WkdajC)IMG_1334 (https://flic.kr/p/WkdajC) by MrBlum (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24309977@N07/), on Flickr

[Indian Express]

There are so many ways to do this, after screwing around with remote switched distribution points and all sorts of ideas I went with the easiest.
My needs were simply for electronics, not heated gear.
The manual says to increase the ACC fuse to 10A when installing the cubby plug so we know that is a safe move.
On the fuse block left side there is a screw terminal and exit point for running 2 wires out. I ran a hot and ground off the box and fished them up through the left side of the tank with the other wires. I used some braided cable loom to protect it, electrical tape would also work.
Terminated with 4x waterproof plugs that are easily accessible from beside the cubby.
If I'm pulling 120 watts and pop the fuse then there is a short. Charging phone, GPS, and radar detector will be way less than 10A, I checked the specs on my devices and added them up, nowhere near 10A.
Consider: my fantastic 5.1A USB charger does not draw 5.1A, it draws a little more than 26Watts or a little over 2A at the fuse. The 5.1A rating is at 5V. It rapidly charges my iphone and has no problem keeping the GPS going. Radar detectors typically draw less than 1/2A.
Anywho, everyone has different needs, this worked for me.

Here's (hopefully) a pic of the install and my charger/compressor pigtail:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4238/35660645896_388591e4a0_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wkd8Cm)IMG_1333 (https://flic.kr/p/Wkd8Cm) by MrBlum (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24309977@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4208/35660651596_d104ba0c03_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WkdajC)IMG_1334 (https://flic.kr/p/WkdajC) by MrBlum (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24309977@N07/), on Flickr

Nice and neat! Thanks for sharing the pictures!

[MisterB]

Thanks Indian Express!
There are a couple things that I forgot to add but can't edit post any more.
I didn't clarify that the ACC screw terminals are fed by the switched ACC fuse so they are added to the load on the (now) 10A ACC circuit.
If a rider needed more juice you could use the screw terminals to switch on a relay fed directly by a fused connection to the battery.
There is some space between the battery and the cover and it might be enough to accommodate a standard or mini automotive relay with bracket. Best to use an insulating wiring harness rather than simple spade plugs when hooking it up.

If I had Bill Gates money I'd still ride an F6B except for off-road use. I feel like a billionaire when I'm on this bike.
Rode out Hwy21 in MO the other day listening to music, getting lost, using afternoon shadows to navigate. Bliss.