Motorcycle or Auto oil for F6B?

[JohnnyB]

This may be a stupid question but then again it may not and might save folks money.
Since the F6B's engine is a flat 6 and basically a water cooled auto engine, cant you just use regular auto oil either synthetic or fossil? Also isnt the transmission lubricated with the "engine oil"? I run Amsoil synthetic "motorcycle" oil, but is motorcycle oil necessary?

[4DI2D]

Oil is definitely necessary!
Use what makes you feel good about your bike and your mechanical abilities.
I use a particular oil in my Bronco 5.0L, my Sebring 3.5L and my F6B. I have used it for years and it is generally said you can eat out of my engines (they're that clean) but it's probably because I change the oil and filter every two to three thousand miles.

Oil and filters are inexpensive insurance for expensive engines.

[Phantom]

This may be a stupid question but then again it may not and might save folks money.
Since the F6B's engine is a flat 6 and basically a water cooled auto engine, cant you just use regular auto oil either synthetic or fossil? Also isnt the transmission lubricated with the "engine oil"? I run Amsoil synthetic "motorcycle" oil, but is motorcycle oil necessary?
We have a Wet clutch that will eventually slip with "energy conserving" oils that are used in autos.

Any oil that is classified JASO-MA will work.

Here is some information on a older thread.

http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?1269-Knocking-noise-during-warmup/page3

[JohnnyB]

We have a Wet clutch that will eventually slip with "energy conserving" oils that are used in autos.

Any oil that is classified JASO-MA will work.

Here is some information on a older thread.

http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?1269-Knocking-noise-during-warmup/page3

Thanks Phantom, the JASO-MA (wet clutch) was very good info. Ride safe!

[Scotrod]

Everybody has their favorite. The water-cooled 6 is pretty easy on oil,,, Transmission probably tears the oil up more than the engine itself.

The oil type requirements per the manual are pretty easy to come by. Dino oil is fine.

I run Castrol MC-specific semi-syn. Middle of the road as far as choices go I suppose, but meets/exceeds Honda's requirements.

I also use 'motorsports' filters. Many use car filters. Again, not a life-changing decision by any means! LOL!

[bobbyf6b]

I'm now a Rotella T6 user. JASO-MA approved. :biggthumpup:

[Steve 0080]

How does the engine know what kind of oil you put in it ????? .batman-smilie.

[jkelley]

I have over the years tried most recommended brands in various bikes and found very little difference in any of them.

As long as it is changed within a reasonable interval most anything that meets the manufacturers requirements will be ok.

I don't think there is a magic brand or snake oil additive that will make all the world a better place, or a machine never wear out or gain any horsepower?

I did try the T6 Rotella in mine but found it shifted kind of clunky as compared to before the oil was changed. (Not to put down T6) but just my observation. I use Rotella in most everything I own from my Dodge CTD, to my lawn mowers and know it is good oil. However, I changed it again and went with the dealer stocked Honda branded synthetic and all is well.

Bottom line: use what makes you feel good as long as it meets the manufacturers recommendations!

[FlyinF]

Don't make life more complicated than it is. Just use the type of oil recommended in the owners manual and change it per the manual, Honda engineers do a good job on recommended maintenance and they have been doing this for decades. I have been riding since 1966 and have always used dino oil on every bike I've owned and changed it per manual requirements. Search the net and I bet you will not find any engine failures due to engine oil/filter brand. A friend has a Wing with 140K miles, in the life of the bike he used the cheapest oil and filter he can find and the bike is running strong.

[Hornblower]

Basically, I like Phantom's advice the best so far...

Two main things to remember:


Avoid Energy Conserving oils


Look for Jaso-MA rated oils

'all/right'

[bigdew]

I currently use Delo 400 15W-40 diesel oil in my F6B and ST1300 with great results. Very smooth shifting and no issues so far. I reviewed threads on the ST1300 forum about a Long Distance rider that swears by it and oil anylasis reports on his motorcycle to prove its condition after each oil change. Made a believer out of me so I switched and happy with the results.

[MSGT-R]

I try to use Synthetic or Semi-Syn in all my motors.
When draining the oil after several thousand miles, you can feel the difference between your fingers (rubbing) of the two. Syn keeps more lubricity in the long run than dino-oil.

I even kept a sample of the two for comparison because I thought I was imagining things - it was different.

[4DI2D]

I currently use Delo 400 15W-40 diesel oil in my F6B and ST1300 with great results. Very smooth shifting and no issues so far. I reviewed threads on the ST1300 forum about a Long Distance rider that swears by it and oil anylasis reports on his motorcycle to prove its condition after each oil change. Made a believer out of me so I switched and happy with the results.

Tough oil rules!
I started using Richfield Super C 20-40 in my '73 CB750 a very long time ago. Clean engine, no issues. Used Delo400 before Valvoline brought Premium Blue to the market to meet the new Cummins specs.
A clean engine is a happy engine.

Steve . . .the answer is . . .they can taste the difference!:yikes: