Shifter, AntiDive, & Handlebar Risers

[Tourer]

Just did these three modifications.
The shifter mod tightened up all the slack and drilling the hole lower in the shift linkage gives nice short crisp shifting.
The nickel mod to the anti dive took away a good amount to the jarring over road irregularities.
The MBL risers gave me a better position for my arms and allowed me to nestle farther back in the seat.
Pleased with all three modifications.

[willtill]

I did the anti-dive mod shortly after I got my F6B back in 2015 or so. Definitely better for handling in the front. Then I had Traxxion just gut everything with their front end upgrade (they also disable anti-dive too).

I also am using MBL risers. I swear the Japs designed these bikes just for themselves at times, due to rider comfort. Us big, fat ol Americans have to constantly work on the ergonomics of them... :icon_lol:

[seventwenty]

Alright, I’m lost, what’s the shifter mod? Did a search and nothing come up.

[Tourer]

It is a modification that replaces the sloppy factory shifter rod with Heim type joints. You also drill a hole in the shifter linkage to shorten the throw and allow the shifter height to be adjusted. It was originally offered from DHS racing but the owner passed away. A friend of the owner now makes the kits available. Not sure if I can list the forum and supplier here because of forum rules. Here are the instructions to give you how the mod is done. If you are interested in doing it, PM me and will give you the information on the supplier.https://www.gl1800riders.com/attachments/dhs-11252-instructions-pdf.190913/

[rdbonds]

Yep, did the shifter mod from that vendor on mine last year. It was pretty simple...paid them and they sent me another full assembly which I swapped out with mine and sent mine back to him. Very handy, and I like the feel of the shifter with the shorter throw.

[tenxxx]

Shifter mod question.
I guess the instructions are using their new parts to reassemble it with after drilling the rivits out.
Can this mod be done without their parts?

[rdbonds]

Their kit as supplied was $50 shipped as I remember. It included both new heim joints, and the re-drilled shifter assembly. I'm sure it would be possible to replicate on your own, but at that price I didn't see it as worth trying. :)

[Tourer]

I bought the kit for $40 - $45 dollars. Pretty easy mod. Need a grinder. The only thing I did differently was reuse the rubber boots that were on the original swivel joints. The new heim joints were a little larger so some trimming was needed.

[rdbonds]

Tourer - It sounds like you reused part of the original linkage and had to drill out the rivet. I ordered DHS-11252, and it already had the linkage modified, rivet removed and new heims installed. Mine was 100% complete and ready to install. I did have to send back my linkage so that DHS could modify it for the next customer.

[willtill]

Alright, I’m lost, what’s the shifter mod? Did a search and nothing come up.

I found this on YouTube. Not very descriptive but I think this is what the guys are talking about. Takes the slop out of the shift linkage

https://youtu.be/1M3JOwgmZm0

[Tourer]

Hi rcbonds. You can purchase it either way. Just buy the kit or get a set done and send back your linkage. If I remember correctly the kit was 40 - 45 and the done linkage was 90. I’m a retired car dealer and technician so I like to do all mods myself.

[rdbonds]

Tourer - Agree that it could be ordered either way. I just looked back (to check my degrading memory)...I spent $55 by paypal for mine.

I was going to post the link to the kit (in both forms, the do-it-yourself kit like yours and the full monty, which I used) in case others on the forum might find it useful. The kit was from DHS Racing, but the link to their site is no longer working. Doing a little searching online, one of our sister forums reports that Dan Sherburne (the owner of DHS) pass away unexpectedly this spring. That's awful to hear. He was super to deal with, and it was nice to be able to support a small business.

[Tourer]

Yeah. Everyone said he was a real nice guy. His friend Rocky sells the kits now. He can be contacted over at the www.GLforums.com.

[tenxxx]

Yeah. Everyone said he was a real nice guy. His friend Rocky sells the kits now. He can be contacted over at the www.GLforums.com (http://www.GLforums.com).

Dead link

[SeaSteve]

I'll add my positive comments about Dan Sherburne at DHS Racing also.

By the time I found DHS racing's shifter mod I'd already filed away some of the metal off center pivot, allowing me to move OEM shifter a little bit closer to where I needed it for my big feet. I ordered the linkage and got a personal phone call from Dan Sherburne to ensure I was asking for the right parts. He knew exactly what I'd "modified" on my own and agreed he couldn't take my shifter as a "trade-out."

Excellent customer service. I can only hope that the great service continues after his passing.

[Tourer]

Sorry guys posted the wrong link. It doesn’t have an s. The fella’s name is Rocky. Here is the link.

https://www.theglforum.com/member/284-rocky

Also a quick message to valkmc. Received your PM and responded three times. I live in a very rural area of North Carolina and internet service is sketchy at best. So not 100% sure you got the message or got it three times. Hope you see this post.

[OlyF6B]

Interested in more details re: the "nickel mod" - thx in advance

[TheWalrus]

Interested in more details re: the "nickel mod" - thx in advance

the nickel mod is opening up the anti-dive valve on the left fork and putting the nickel in the little pocket that seems made to fit.

I actually used a washer the same size as a nickel in diameter and thickness, with a hole in the center big enough for the small anti-dive rod to fit through. I learned that on another 1800 forum. I have not researched this, but understood that the anti-dive is progressive. The harder you pull on the brake the more the piston extends until the front fork is 100% rigid. The washer was supposed to allow it to function under hard braking where you would want it not to dive, but allow the fork to move under light braking from cornering etc.

[tenxxx]

I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of a nickle and it worked fine. But I think it stopped all anti dive action.
Had to get longer screws to put it together with. On my 2013 any front brake action locked the shocks.
I have since put the mono shocks in and they work good. The front doesn't bottom out any more.
The handle bar risers are the best improvement. Before it felt like my arms were spread out like I was flying.

[ridinglearn]

Just did these three modifications.
The shifter mod tightened up all the slack and drilling the hole lower in the shift linkage gives nice short crisp shifting.
The nickel mod to the anti dive took away a good amount to the jarring over road irregularities.
The MBL risers gave me a better position for my arms and allowed me to nestle farther back in the seat.
Pleased with all three modifications.

I'm also looking for bar risers for my VT1300 CR. I have been experiencing back and shoulder pain after riding 6 hours a day. Using an aftermarket handlebar that I had ordered from viking bag (https://www.vikingbags.com/motorcycle-handle-bars) want to put a riser on it to adjust the bar height which will definitely help me to relax my arms and shoulder while riding. Need your suggestions on where should go to buy risers any experiences?

[SeaSteve]

If you're like me and not creative enough to make your own parts AND/OR willing to pay someone else for a sure thing...Here's a premade Anti-Dive shim from Wingstuff (https://wingstuff.com/products/32921-anti-dive-fork-valve-shim-w-screws?Category_Code=suspension_items).