Does Anyone Have Front Wheel Wobble?

[dickiedeals]

Between 37 and 42 mph I experience a slight front end wobble or shimmy. Its more noticeable when coming to a stop but if I go a steady 40mph its steady wiggle as well. The tire is the correct inflation. Yes I do have a Fork brace installed.(Didn't help) I've never experienced this on any motorcycle and I've owned 100's. Has anyone else encountered this? Corrected it? Any ideas on how to make it go away?................Dickie

[Scotrod]

Myself, no. The GL forums have quite a few posts on it. Unclear if a 'silver bullet' type fix exists,,,

[hiflyer]

Between 37 and 42 mph I experience a slight front end wobble or shimmy. Its more noticeable when coming to a stop but if I go a steady 40mph its steady wiggle as well. The tire is the correct inflation. I've never experienced this on any motorcycle and I've owned 100's. Has anyone else encountered this? Corrected it? Any ideas on how to make it go away?................Dickie

The old Honda headshake rears its ugly head again. Yep, I've had it on every Gold Wing I've owned. Except this one. I always noticed it at a slightly lower speed when slowing down. Especially if I was decelerating and took both hands off the bars to do something like zip up a jacket. FWIW, I also noticed it on later model Harley's after they switched to the smaller front tire. If unchecked, it would turn into a tank slapper on both brands. Do you have a forkbrace? Just fishing, don't know if that would help or not, but my bike seems to handle better with one, and I haven't noticed any shimmy on it. One of my friends dumped his wing on the highway with a highway speed wobble. I don't know what he was doing when it happened, but we need to research this over on the wing forum.

[Phantom]

:no::icon_evil:

I have it as well on my Goldwing. My Goldwing only has 6000 miles. It is a known issue ... Honda says YOUR NOT suppose to take your hands off the handlebars. 2 of my close friends also have the wobble.

Some have said that the cause was from under inflated tires, old "cupped" tires and some have seen the problem go away after replacing the steering head ball bearings with "tapered" bearings.

From my personal experience..... It does happen and after replacing my old tires with 2 new tires just prior to the Daytona-Key West trip, it is not caused by the tires as some have suggested, I still have the wobble. When I had 38lbs in the rear tire and 40lbs in the front on these new tires the wobble was actually worse than before with my old tires. So I just bumped up the tire pressure, I have 45lbs in the front and 44lbs in the rear and it has minimized the deceleration wobble. I had installed a fork brace and still had the same wobble.

Some Goldwings have it and others do not, you can torque the steering head ball bearings once again but the problem will most likely come back. So my last solution is to replace my front head bearings with tapered bearings, that will happen later this year.

[hiflyer]

I meant to add, check the steering head for proper torque.

[1951vbs]

According to the GL folks ALL BALLS neck bearings are the fix. Here is a quote from Big Dawg (forum member): "All Balls" are an upgrade set of neck bearings that are really a set of tapered roller bearings instead of the cheap open balls in a plastic cage. I suggest that you research the dreaded decel wobble that a lot of wings are prone to suffer from. Search over on the GL 1800 riders forum.

IMO because this phenomenon is present on some bikes but not all it is more likely due to neck bearing adjustment than design. I do think the ALL BALLS bearings are an improvement and if this wobble ever rears its ugly head on my bike I will install them.

Dickie, have you experienced this wobble on deceleration or just at steady forward speeds?

[Deer Slayer]

I have no problem on my F6B. My other two Wings had head shake. I now ponder if it was the trunk? I ran car tires on all my Wings. I have 10.7 k miles on this Bridgestone 709 with no cupping. No tire whine on the curves. I have never had tire whine with car tires. Just saying. :301::cheers:

[hiflyer]

:no::icon_evil:

It is a known issue ... Honda says YOUR NOT suppose to take your hands off the handlebars.

That is exactly what Honda told me, word for word, in 1991.

[dickiedeals]

According to the GL folks ALL BALLS neck bearings are the fix. Here is a quote from Big Dawg (forum member): "All Balls" are an upgrade set of neck bearings that are really a set of tapered roller bearings instead of the cheap open balls in a plastic cage. I suggest that you research the dreaded decel wobble that a lot of wings are prone to suffer from. Search over on the GL 1800 riders forum.

IMO because this phenomenon is present on some bikes but not all it is more likely due to neck bearing adjustment than design. I do think the ALL BALLS bearings are an improvement and if this wobble ever rears its ugly head on my bike I will install them.

Dickie, have you experienced this wobble on deceleration or just at steady forward speeds?

I always get it on deceleration when passing through 42 and stops at 36. Plus if I ride a steady 40 to 42 mph its a continuous wobble. Quite a nuisance as I also turn loose of the Handlebars to adjust things, Zip jackets etc.

[Steve 0080]

The first sign of time to replace the front tire……JMHO!

P.S. Don’t let the head shake get out of control by seeing how bad it will get!!!! it WILL turn into a tank slapper!!!

[jakec]

I feel the steering stem nut loses torque the more miles you put on it. This can depend on air pressure, road conditions and how hard you ride. A worn tire amplifies the situation. You can go to All Balls which causes more friction and less wobble but now many are complaining they are notching. The OEM bearings work fine but they need occasional maintenance such as regreasing and retorquing. Many have found very little grease on the bearing from the factory. If your torque is too loose you will have a wobble, if it's to tight you will have a high speed weave. There's a fine line between the two.

[Richie]

Will installing a Traxxion front fork kit stop this wobble?

Richie

[yellow rex]

Yes most goldwing have this problem a tire with
cupping can cause it as well, seely stering stablzer
for goldwing usualy will solve this problem they are proud of
it.

[jakec]

I have never installed a Traxxion suspension [even though I've only heard good about them] I really don't think they would change a wobble. Usually a wobble is associated with the steering head but on a few occasions I've seen loose swingarm bearings also create a wobble.

[dickiedeals]

The first sign of time to replace the front tire……JMHO!

P.S. Don’t let the head shake get out of control by seeing how bad it will get!!!! it WILL turn into a tank slapper!!!

Front tire only has 8000 miles on it. Should go 16000 or more. All my Harleys did. Am I wrong thinking this?...Dickie

[jakec]

Yellow Rex, thanks for that info on Seely stabilizer, I had never heard of them and so I looked up there site. Looks like a high quality product.

[unsub]

No wobble here either.

Maybe a currently certified Honda mechanic with experience on present generation GL1800's can weigh in here?

Oh, I want to ask you dickiedeals, what type of work have you done on the bike, on the front end? Lastly have you inspected the wheel balance weights?

[unsub]

That is exactly what Honda told me, word for word, in 1991.

Hmm...23 years ago. IF it was a know issue then, I'm sure that either a fix has been engineered in. Otherwise if even just 1% of all units sold had the issue there would be 1000's of documented cases over the last 23 years, exposing an unacceptable risk to Honda.

[yellow rex]

dickiedeals you may wont to pm Zackabilly,
he uses the seely poroduct on all of his goldwings.

[CaptRob]

I read somewhere that the front end fork brace can cause problems if not installed correctly. I know you guys know what your doing I was just thinking about a thread I read about install procedures including loostening front wheel and bouncing etc... They said the brace can actually put it in a bind. So here's the question, If you do not have wobble, should you install the brace?

[hiflyer]

Hmm...23 years ago. IF it was a know issue then, I'm sure that either a fix has been engineered in. Otherwise if even just 1% of all units sold had the issue there would be 1000's of documented cases over the last 23 years, exposing an unacceptable risk to Honda.

The owner of the dealership that contacted Honda on my behalf 23 years ago still owns the dealership today and can back me up. You doubting me?

[Hornblower]

I read somewhere that the front end fork brace can cause problems if not installed correctly. I know you guys know what your doing I was just thinking about a thread I read about install procedures including loostening front wheel and bouncing etc... They said the brace can actually put it in a bind. So here's the question, If you do not have wobble, should you install the brace?

Improper installation of a fork brace can cause fork binding but should not be associated with wobble. So, whether or not you have wobble should have nothing to do with installing the brace. :2cents:

[Scotrod]

The owner of the dealership that contacted Honda on my behalf 23 years ago still owns the dealership today and can back me up. You doubting me?

Can't speak for unsub, but I'm not doubting ya.

I think the 'fixes' are varied, and no one item is the 'silver bullet'

And if it only occurs with no hands on the bars,,, well,,, Like Honda says,,, :icon_wink:

I don't have the wobble,,,, at least not yet. :shrug:

[Scotrod]

Improper installation of a fork brace can cause fork binding but should not be associated with wobble. So, whether or not you have wobble should have nothing to do with installing the brace. :2cents:

All true. Just adding a brace will not immediately cause wobble, but I wonder if, over time, if installed incorrectly and it binds hard enough/long enough to wear your guides out,,,, and those loose guides, along with a myriad of other small issues, ~indirectly promote~ wobble? :shrug: (One would thing the seals would be spittin oil before it got THAT bad :shrug: )

IMHO, I think a properly installed brace may be helpful w/wobble, BUT, I have no proof to back that up or would I consider it a 'fix-all' for all cases of wobble.

IMHO, most likely , a 'perfect storm' of factors all align at once to result in wobble. :shrug:

:icon_biggrin: Dickie,,, try relocatin all yer pistols,,, ya might just have too much lead on one side!!!! :icon_biggrin:

[unsub]

All true. Just adding a brace will not immediately cause wobble, but I wonder if, over time, if installed incorrectly and it binds hard enough/long enough to wear your guides out,,,, and those loose guides, along with a myriad of other small issues, ~indirectly promote~ wobble? :shrug:

I think there can be some legitimate issues that originate from self installed 3rd party accessories. Not saying this is the case here, but in general.

There is a boat load of add-ons for these machines that must confound the hell out of Honda Engineers when they have to trouble shoot customer issues. I for one don't like to tamper with the stock Honda machine in this way. I have complete confidence in the bike as it's sold. Especially a model that has been through so much refinement over the years.

[unsub]

The owner of the dealership that contacted Honda on my behalf 23 years ago still owns the dealership today and can back me up. You doubting me?

No, I'm not doubting Honda stated that you're not supposed to take your hands off the bars. I regret that my response led you to believe otherwise.

Safe & Happy riding..in that order.

[hiflyer]

Google Honda Gold Wing wobble, this issue has been around as long as Gold Wings

[opas ride]

I know that many have suggested various "fixes" for this long standing GW issue, but the one that works 99% of the time is keep your hands on the bars where they are supposed to go....Letting go of the bars at any speed is just asking for something to happen...If one must rest a hand on the road, rest it quickly at speeds that are steady and not on decele.....Worked for me. Honda claims this is not a big deal and most GW riders I know live with it......

[dickiedeals]

I know that many have suggested various "fixes" for this long standing GW issue, but the one that works 99% of the time is keep your hands on the bars where they are supposed to go....Letting go of the bars at any speed is just asking for something to happen...If one must rest a hand on the road, rest it quickly at speeds that are steady and not on decele.....Worked for me. Honda claims this is not a big deal and most GW riders I know live with it......

You should not have to live with it on a Quality Machine such as The F6B or the GL1800. Mother Honda should step up to the plate and fix this problem that I'm sure they are aware at this point.

As far as ridding without hands goes. Well how I ride isn't anyone's business or Honda's.You ride the way you do as I will. Nor is it anyone's place to tell me how to ride.......................Dickie

[dickiedeals]

All true. Just adding a brace will not immediately cause wobble, but I wonder if, over time, if installed incorrectly and it binds hard enough/long enough to wear your guides out,,,, and those loose guides, along with a myriad of other small issues, ~indirectly promote~ wobble? :shrug: (One would thing the seals would be spittin oil before it got THAT bad :shrug: )

IMHO, I think a properly installed brace may be helpful w/wobble, BUT, I have no proof to back that up or would I consider it a 'fix-all' for all cases of wobble.

IMHO, most likely , a 'perfect storm' of factors all align at once to result in wobble. :shrug:

:icon_biggrin: Dickie,,, try relocatin all yer pistols,,, ya might just have too much lead on one side!!!! :icon_biggrin:

Had the wobble before the brace. And have it the same amount after the brace. LOL Got it with or without the Guns. Though I feel naked without them.........................Dickie

[Texas TC]

I had it bad on my two previous full Wings. But, the F6 B has never had it. I installed a SuperBrace early in my ownership. Dont know if it has helped keep the wobble away or not but I did not have a fork brace on the Wings and they were terrible. I have 17000 miles on my front tire and am just now beginning to see some cupping, still no wobble. I think I may get 20000 out of the front tire which I think is great.

[thunder217]

My F6B knock on wood is more stable than any bike that I've ever rode, even at 80 -90 with no hands mine continues down the road. I have never felt the wobble and I don't have a fork brace installed. What type of Wind shield do you have on this F6B. I think there are a lot of things that can cause the wobble. I installed last week the brake and caliper covers and it actually changed the dynamics of the bike. We need to be aware of the things that we add and what the effect will be. :icon_biggrin:

[Phantom]

I think there can be some legitimate issues that originate from self installed 3rd party accessories.

My Goldwing has had the wobble since I purchased it with 2,800 miles. It is mechanically 100% stock.

I replaced a cover or two with chrome, but they have no mechanical function, strictly for aesthetics.

I have dealt with it for the last 3.5 years. Just like Dickie, it's during deceleration from 45mph going down to 35mph :banghead:

[Scotrod]

I had it bad on my two previous full Wings. But, the F6 B has never had it. I installed a SuperBrace early in my ownership. Dont know if it has helped keep the wobble away or not but I did not have a fork brace on the Wings and they were terrible. I have 17000 miles on my front tire and am just now beginning to see some cupping, still no wobble. I think I may get 20000 out of the front tire which I think is great.

I have no real facts to go off of but 'something I thought I read somewhere,,,'

Did Honda change the guides (make 'em larger/longer) in the F6B's forks, or in the 2nd Gens as a whole? :shrug:
(I need to quit going off memory,,, that's how rumors start/continue,,,)

I believe the 6 is lowered slightly than the full wing,,, 'Different' in that sense,,,

I've read of the GL wobble, but Dickie is the 1st I've heard of with a 6 that wobbles. :shrug:

[Scotrod]

My F6B knock on wood is more stable than any bike that I've ever rode,:

Hmm,,, mine isn't in the sense that very little shift in 'anything' will make it change direction.

I have to be pretty still to 'free-hand' the 6,,,

My last bike (Stratoliner) was very prone to go in a straight line, but it required a little pressure on the 'outside' grip to get it down in a corner.

Rode a friends Street Glide last weekend with some 'mild' Ape hangers. Granted, I didn't get hot in heavy in ANY corner w/my friends bike, but It was the opposite in that it took a little pressure on the inside grip to keep from going too far (down) when going into in the corner. It also took mostly upper body action to steer where as my 6 responds with minimal lower body input and 'pretty much nada/neutral' on the bars.

Don't get me wrong, counter-steer/proper bar input is critical, but IMHO,,,,, both the SG and my old Strat were a bit more forgiving when it comes to staying in a straight line w/o hands on the bars, and more effort to instigate / hold corners than the 6,,, :shrug:

[jakec]

The only thing I know that is different from the Wing is the lower triple clamp.

[jakec]

I also feel the F6B is a little more difficult to keep in a straight line without your hands on the bars. I feel this is because the cylinders are offset which changes the weight ratio from side to side and also because of the torque of the driveshaft.

[Steve 0080]

No Dickie…should be the same……mw F6 shook one time not long ago….everything has to be right, at least for me to get …and for me it always starts when the front tire has some wear…H.D. or GL…they act the same!

[Scotrod]

…and for me it always starts when the front tire has some wear…H.D. or GL…they act the same!

Which brings us to another potential factor. Pressure.

Cannot overstress the importance of an accurate Gauge. I have 2-3 'pencil' gauges and (3) dial gauges now.

Story goes like this:

Bought my 2nd dial gauge specifically for MC applications. (Straight stems on the previous bike were easier to check with a dial type w/short hose and 90 degree chuck.) Gauge had very good reviews,,, Long story short, I recently bought a 'stubby' dial gauge for my lil sister to carry in her car. Noticed it read 4 lbs higher than my 'highly rated' MC gauge. Compared the MC gauge to my 'assortment' of gauges,,, yep, my MC gauge was reading 4 lbs LOW, causing over-inflation. :banghead:

Pressures:

Honda says 36F 41R. Many here swear by 40/40.

I was inadvertently running 44/44 up until a month ago,,, the ride felt like bias ply tires,,, :banghead:

A true 40/40 was a much better ride. (No sheet Sherlock!!! LOL!!)

Experimenting w/ 38F/40R now. The 38 takes a little of the 'expansion joint jolt' outta the front.

Moral of this story??? Cross-check yer gauges!!!

[dickiedeals]

Which brings us to another potential factor. Pressure.

Cannot overstress the importance of an accurate Gauge. I have 2-3 'pencil' gauges and (3) dial gauges now.

Story goes like this:

Bought my 2nd dial gauge specifically for MC applications. (Straight stems on the previous bike were easier to check with a dial type w/short hose and 90 degree chuck.) Gauge had very good reviews,,, Long story short, I recently bought a 'stubby' dial gauge for my lil sister to carry in her car. Noticed it read 4 lbs higher than my 'highly rated' MC gauge. Compared the MC gauge to my 'assortment' of gauges,,, yep, my MC gauge was reading 4 lbs LOW, causing over-inflation. :banghead:

Pressures:

Honda says 36F 41R. Many here swear by 40/40.

I was inadvertently running 44/44 up until a month ago,,, the ride felt like bias ply tires,,, :banghead:

A true 40/40 was a much better ride. (No sheet Sherlock!!! LOL!!)

Experimenting w/ 38F/40R now. The 38 takes a little of the 'expansion joint jolt' outta the front.

Moral of this story??? Cross-check yer gauges!!!

Checked my gauges this morning. Every one of them gives a different reading. So while I thought the pressure is correct. Now I have no idea? Is there an accurate gauge?First going to play with pressures and see if it matters.Then I'll go from there.............Dickie

[dickiedeals]

dickiedeals you may wont to pm Zackabilly,
he uses the seely poroduct on all of his goldwings.

Spending $500 bucks to maybe make an ever so slight wobble go away is a bit extreme. I feel it should be fixed by Honda and that's where I shall start once I'm sure tire pressure is correct.............................Dickie

[Scotrod]

Checked my gauges this morning. Every one of them gives a different reading. So while I thought the pressure is correct. Now I have no idea? Is there an accurate gauge?First going to play with pressures and see if it matters.Then I'll go from there.............Dickie

Guaranteed accuracy is kinda tough to find,,, Even the economical pencil gauges can be good, and more expensive dial types 'not so good' I haven't had a digital in years, as I'm very happy with the 'bleed-off/pressure release' features many of the dial type gauges provide.

Accu-Gauge is the flavor that turned out to be 4 lbs off,,, however, I'm almost certain there are multiple 'brands' of the same gauge system with only the difference being the faceplate/dial on the gauge itself, and/or perhaps the hose color/material.

(My latest MC Gauge appears to be an 'Accu-Gauge' clone)

The version of the 'Accu-Gauge' I had before was the RA60X at the bottom of the page:

http://www.ghmeiser.com/dial.htm

Worked great for getting at those straight MC stems, but, I no longer have straight MC stems and,,, well,,, you know,,, :icon_frown:

I'm not going to badmouth Accu Guage, but I did kinda end up with a 'dud' I guess,,, 'kickthecan'

[dickiedeals]

Guaranteed accuracy is kinda tough to find,,, Even the economical pencil gauges can be good, and more expensive dial types 'not so good' I haven't had a digital in years, as I'm very happy with the 'bleed-off/pressure release' features many of the dial type gauges provide.

Accu-Gauge is the flavor that turned out to be 4 lbs off,,, however, I'm almost certain there are multiple 'brands' of the same gauge system with only the difference being the faceplate/dial on the gauge itself, and/or perhaps the hose color/material.

(My latest MC Gauge appears to be an 'Accu-Gauge' clone)

The version of the 'Accu-Gauge' I had before was the RA60X at the bottom of the page:

http://www.ghmeiser.com/dial.htm

Worked great for getting at those straight MC stems, but, I no longer have straight MC stems and,,, well,,, you know,,, :icon_frown:

I'm not going to badmouth Accu Guage, but I did kinda end up with a 'dud' I guess,,, 'kickthecan'

yep, got two of them and they both read different .Go figure...Dickie

[Hornblower]

This is the gauge I'm using. It's very accurate and easy to use.

http://www.joesracing.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=1068

Like several other posters, I have found most of the popular digital gauges to be quite inaccurate :icon_frown:

[dickiedeals]

This is the gauge I'm using. It's very accurate and easy to use.

http://www.joesracing.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=1068

Like several other posters, I have found most of the popular digital gauges to be quite inaccurate :icon_frown:

Hey Hornblower thanks for the info. I'll check'em out.................Dickie ..............And It glows in the dark too!

[Scotrod]

I've heard good things about Joes, but also about Accu-G too,,,

Here are 2 models with a substantial price differences;


HB's:

http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32310-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B003TQ2W44

Other:

http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0

The first has a 'hold valve' (Holds air pressure in gauge until manually released, with or without hose attached to tire)

2nd doesn't have the hold feature. It releases air from the gauge when the hose is removed from the tire.

IMHO, the hold feature is excellent, a virtual 'must have', but if the hold feature is the only difference between these 2, something doesn't seem right,,,, Is that the ONLY difference? Surely not,,,

[1951vbs]

Dickie, I know it is important to have confidence in your tire gauge but if you think it affects the wobble why don't you test at 4psi lower and 4psi higher than what you run right now and see if it improves?

[thunder217]

For the wobble, we still need to look at something else. The way my 6 is set up I can ride with no hands for miles with the cruise control engaged. We must be riding different bikes. Not sure if it is the suspension my weight and the overall position but mine never vers off the path with no hands not that you supposed to be riding with no hands. Just to say mine is very stable. I have not adjusted my suspension from the factory with only replacing the windshield. I weight about 300 pounds plus at 6 feet 1 inches. The bike was made for me. :icon_rolleyes:

[Hogzilla]

Well I guess I will throw my 2 cents in. I have owned a wing for 13 years and it had the front end deceleration wobble at 40 to 35 mph. Heck it was new back in 01. We all thought it was the tire manufacturer making bad tires that were not good for the new wing. Tire cupping was a huge deal way back then. We tried fork braces to stop the flexing hoping that was the problem. Nope. We then inspected the neck bearings. We all started replacing the bearings and the problems were going away. Tire cupping also disappeared as we replaced the bearings. I did this some 10 years ago and all the wobbling issues have disappeared. Watching tire pressure is also critical. Honda was telling us to run 40 to 41 psi cold in the front tires to prevent cupping. I just did not like that much pressure in the front tire and it made the front end feel too light so I run around 38 lbs in the front. I hope when I pick my F6B up this week, that I don't have the front end wobble, but if I do, I won't fret about it, I will order the bearings and replace them.

[dickiedeals]

Well I guess I will throw my 2 cents in. I have owned a wing for 13 years and it had the front end deceleration wobble at 40 to 35 mph. Heck it was new back in 01. We all thought it was the tire manufacturer making bad tires that were not good for the new wing. Tire cupping was a huge deal way back then. We tried fork braces to stop the flexing hoping that was the problem. Nope. We then inspected the neck bearings. We all started replacing the bearings and the problems were going away. Tire cupping also disappeared as we replaced the bearings. I did this some 10 years ago and all the wobbling issues have disappeared. Watching tire pressure is also critical. Honda was telling us to run 40 to 41 psi cold in the front tires to prevent cupping. I just did not like that much pressure in the front tire and it made the front end feel too light so I run around 38 lbs in the front. I hope when I pick my F6B up this week, that I don't have the front end wobble, but if I do, I won't fret about it, I will order the bearings and replace them.
You have any Idea what the bearings part number is? Are they after market? Where can I get them?.Dickie

[dickiedeals]

For the wobble, we still need to look at something else. The way my 6 is set up I can ride with no hands for miles with the cruise control engaged. We must be riding different bikes. Not sure if it is the suspension my weight and the overall position but mine never vers off the path with no hands not that you supposed to be riding with no hands. Just to say mine is very stable. I have not adjusted my suspension from the factory with only replacing the windshield. I weight about 300 pounds plus at 6 feet 1 inches. The bike was made for me. :icon_rolleyes:

At speeds above 45 I can ride all day long with no hands. Runs true and smooth. For those that can't, Perhaps one saddle bag is a bit heaver than the other.
Though not real safe I can ride with no hands through the slight wobble between 42 and 36. Its just a feeling I don't like therefore I want it gone. The F6B I test rode did not have this wobble. If it had I might of purchased the BMW I was also looking at........................Dickie

[Hogzilla]

You have any Idea what the bearings part number is? Are they after market? Where can I get them?.Dickie

Here is the site http://wingstuff.com/products/21578-all-balls-gold-wing-steering-bearings I would contact them and tell them the year and model of your bike so you get the correct bearing. It is a lot of work but it you have mechanical ability you can do it. I did mine then my friend brought his bike over and I replaced his. Good luck and also go to the bottom of the page and read the reviews

[1951vbs]

The F6B I test rode did not have this wobble. If it had I might of purchased the BMW I was also looking at........................Dickie

Believe me Dickie you did yourself a favor by not buying the BWM. If you think this issue is bad on the F6B good thing you did not experience the issues on many newer beemers. MY LAST BMW IS WHY I WENT WITH THE F6B! The wobble issue doesn't seem to affect many F6B's but does have a cheap fix. Just look at it like any other mod you have made. A chance to upgrade, just like a fork brace, etc. A few F6B's have hesitation and IMO they just need NGK plugs instead of ND, just another upgrade.

[SHOCKER7718]

I feel the steering stem nut loses torque the more miles you put on it. This can depend on air pressure, road conditions and how hard you ride. A worn tire amplifies the situation. You can go to All Balls which causes more friction and less wobble but now many are complaining they are notching. The OEM bearings work fine but they need occasional maintenance such as regreasing and retorquing. Many have found very little grease on the bearing from the factory. If your torque is too loose you will have a wobble, if it's to tight you will have a high speed weave. There's a fine line between the two.

So what is the correct amount of torque or setting? To tighten up the steering stem?

[jakec]

Stock-21lbs. All Balls 20 to 23.

[jakec]

By the way, this is the nut under the upper triple clamp not the one on top. To torque it you need a special socket.

[CaptRob]

I wanted to see if my 6 did it as well… so yeah if I take my hands off of the bars during deceleration around those low speeds I get a little but, I never noticed until looking for it. If I take my hands off, I use my throttle lock and usually a bit more speed. So I can deal with that!!:2gwb921: