srt8-in-largo
08-22-2014, 11:37 PM
Since day one I've thought the OEM low beams were really weak. It could be argued that they are dangerously weak. The throw is short. The spread is narrow. The intensity is dim. The end result is you're not seeing very far down the road, you're not seeing deer or other roadside hazards, and what you do see, you don't see much detail of it.
So what to do? Well first, here's what NOT to do.
1) Don't put LED or HID bulbs in the OEM halogen reflector
Simply put, LED and HID bulbs were not designed to be used in halogen reflectors. The design of a headlight is much more than making a chrome bowl and putting a light bulb in it. The optics of the bulb and reflector are precisely designed in very great detail to work together and produce useful lighting that doesn't blind or annoy other drivers on the road. I feel silly for having gone down this path in the past. What I thought was "more" light was really just more scatter.
Here's an example of what I'm talking about (from member Doppelganger on ClubRoadster.net (http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/20-exterior-sponsored-r-speed/69869-hid-lights-reflector-housings-reminder-some-you-out-there.html)); this is an HID bulb in a halogen reflector. Simply generating more light with a more powerful bulb does you absolutely no good if that light is not placed correctly. The scatter will blind, annoy, or distract other drivers and, further, misplaced brightness will cause your eyes to focus and dilate to view these scattered areas instead of focusing and dilating on areas that are supposed to be lit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Lm3jJt21hc0/U_f3cPkrxGI/AAAAAAAACDQ/dszc0u6hz0o/s800/hidglare.jpg
2) Do not put the higher wattage halogens in
The OEM low beams (and high beams) are 55W systems. There are several 55W bulbs being sold and marketed as creating more light with names like Nightbreaker and ExtremeVision but the reality is they make no more light than any other bulb. Halogen bulbs create light from electrical power, aka wattage. If you don't increase the wattage you don't increase the light. The marketing departments in these companies have done a terrific job in fooling us.
Osram, however, makes a 65W H7 bulb (PN: 64217) that they sell for offroad use. During my research into these bulbs several GL riders advised me to not use them. I filed those pieces of information away in my mind but it wasn't until I ran across a picture posted by Macgyver0856 on the Steve Saunders forum that it sank in.
When I mentioned above that the bulb and reflector were designed in great detail to work together, this is one of those details. The thermal properties of and within the reflector are designed to withstand the heat generated from a 55W bulb, not a 65W bulb. The damage you see below is caused from a 65W bulb. For the record, OEM headlight units are about $300 to replace.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZOOf0eCJHS4/U_f-AErPLKI/AAAAAAAACDo/nOS7_WHFI08/s800/higher%2520wattage.jpg
Here is what you should do to overcome the weak OEM beams... HID retrofit... spefically, bixenon HID.
Again from member Doppelganger on ClubRoadster.net (http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/20-exterior-sponsored-r-speed/69869-hid-lights-reflector-housings-reminder-some-you-out-there.html), here's what a proper HID can do for you. A HUGE difference from the HID and LED plug-n-play garbage being sold. Notice the crisp lines, wide beam, and low amount of scatter. In addition to the benefit of being able to create such a precise throw, there are other advantages. First, HID systems can be had with 35W ballasts, therefore these systems use less power than the OEM halogens. Second, HIDs generate about 3,000 lumens which is literally twice the OEM halogen output of 1,500 lumens.
One final note for this picture. Notice the step in the beam is lower on the left and higher on the right. This is by design for LHD (left hand drive) countries. RHD (right hand drive) countries will have HIDs that create opposite steps, the right side is lower than the left. All of this is done, of course, to keep light out of the eyes of oncoming traffic.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EYzKPHYC3Ho/U_gDR5P42DI/AAAAAAAACD4/pFyvWuPgIgQ/s800/onex-hid-cutoff-line-step-6.jpg
With the benefits understood, we should also understand that not all HID projectors are created equal. As with all things, there are subpar units out there that will give you problems.
HID systems are very similar to halogen systems; they both have a light bulb that sit within a reflective housing. For whatever reason the HID systems refer to these housings as projectors instead of reflectors. The HID system has a lens, however, that is not present in halogen systems as well as a ballast, which is essentially a voltage converter needed to operate the HID light bulb. As with halogens, each piece of the HID system is designed in great detail to work together.
Bixenon HIDs set themselves apart by being able to produce a high beam, in addition to a low beam, from a single unit. It accomplishes this by implementing a shield that sits between the bulb housing and the lens. In low beam operation, this shield will block light to the top of the lens. In high beam operation, the shield is lowered and the top of the lens will now transmit light thus producing the high beam effect.
The top performing HID systems will have each piece working together like a well oiled machine to create light like in the picture above. The subpar systems will have a deficiency somewhere that'll cause narrow spreads, non-uniformity, curved cutoffs, and\or sticking shield operation. Choose your HID system wisely.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qyYlPcRWrKc/U_gFlV2uUNI/AAAAAAAACEE/BGQ8_LUymWw/s800/Headlight_projector_schematic.png
Why bixenon... and what are some good HID systems
When upgrading your OEM low beams with an HID retrofit you have two options; i) retrofit with a low-beam only HID or ii) retrofit with a bixenon HID. In both cases your low beams will be better from HID lighting, however, with bixenon when you go to high beams you will have the OEM high beams AND the high beams of the bixenon's. In the bixenon case you are actually adding auxiliary lighting to your bike as part of the package. Further, this auxiliary lighting is properly placed higher on the bike than lighting you would place in the fog light location. Win-win.
One of the more popular and easier HID retrofits is with the Mini H1 projector (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/bi-xenon-morimoto-mini-stage-3-kit-h1.html#.U_gWImcg-ix). Several Goldwingers have done this upgrade, including Macgyver0856 who I mentioned above; the second pic below is his. As shown in the first pic below, the Mini H1 projector has a threaded installation knub on the end that's used with the lock ring nut. All you do is open up your headlight housing, remove the H7 bulb, slide the threaded knub into the bulb opening, tighten down with the lock nut, and install the decorative shroud over the lens. Reassemble the headlight housing and you're basically done except for wiring the ballast and beam alignment.
The forums over on HIDplanet have a ton of discussion on the projector and some people are reporting a sticking shield... and this is not good; this could literally leave you stuck in high beam mode with no way to turn them down to low beams. The Mini H1 kit sold by TheRetrofitSource.com (TRS) has made several improvements over the years, and their current version 6.0 made improvements to the actuating solenoid... so it's quite possible that the sticking shield issue no longer exists. If anybody want to go this route, you may be fine if you get the version 6.0 Mini H1.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ieBhzY2CIgw/U_gRJXcZf3I/AAAAAAAACEU/cX4-FUNCxBs/s800/mini%2520h1.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QScvXUQkqFw/U_gSa9dekAI/AAAAAAAACEc/wBHLrJ38fGo/s800/macs_mini_h1.jpg
TRS, however, sells another better projector that I'm planning to go with; the Lexus RX350 projectors (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/projectors/bi-xenon-lexus-rx350-sti-r-oem-projectors.html#.U_gWCmcg-iw). These are universally praised as being excellent performers in terms of uniformity, intensity, beam width, etc, etc... everything that you want in the best headlight money can buy today. Further, Lexus has a pretty good track record and as Lexus OEM equipment, I'm thinking (hoping) these will be 100% trouble free.
The Lexus projectors are only slightly bigger than the Mini H1's but they don't have the threaded mounting knub; so installation will be more difficult but very doable and worthwhile. I won't give away my secrets (unless someone asks lol) for how I plan to install these but I hope to get this done over the next couple of months.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QGU-IJsKAtQ/U_gZ1ET7GLI/AAAAAAAACEs/HylQskWTKX4/s800/lexus_rx350.jpg
So what to do? Well first, here's what NOT to do.
1) Don't put LED or HID bulbs in the OEM halogen reflector
Simply put, LED and HID bulbs were not designed to be used in halogen reflectors. The design of a headlight is much more than making a chrome bowl and putting a light bulb in it. The optics of the bulb and reflector are precisely designed in very great detail to work together and produce useful lighting that doesn't blind or annoy other drivers on the road. I feel silly for having gone down this path in the past. What I thought was "more" light was really just more scatter.
Here's an example of what I'm talking about (from member Doppelganger on ClubRoadster.net (http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/20-exterior-sponsored-r-speed/69869-hid-lights-reflector-housings-reminder-some-you-out-there.html)); this is an HID bulb in a halogen reflector. Simply generating more light with a more powerful bulb does you absolutely no good if that light is not placed correctly. The scatter will blind, annoy, or distract other drivers and, further, misplaced brightness will cause your eyes to focus and dilate to view these scattered areas instead of focusing and dilating on areas that are supposed to be lit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Lm3jJt21hc0/U_f3cPkrxGI/AAAAAAAACDQ/dszc0u6hz0o/s800/hidglare.jpg
2) Do not put the higher wattage halogens in
The OEM low beams (and high beams) are 55W systems. There are several 55W bulbs being sold and marketed as creating more light with names like Nightbreaker and ExtremeVision but the reality is they make no more light than any other bulb. Halogen bulbs create light from electrical power, aka wattage. If you don't increase the wattage you don't increase the light. The marketing departments in these companies have done a terrific job in fooling us.
Osram, however, makes a 65W H7 bulb (PN: 64217) that they sell for offroad use. During my research into these bulbs several GL riders advised me to not use them. I filed those pieces of information away in my mind but it wasn't until I ran across a picture posted by Macgyver0856 on the Steve Saunders forum that it sank in.
When I mentioned above that the bulb and reflector were designed in great detail to work together, this is one of those details. The thermal properties of and within the reflector are designed to withstand the heat generated from a 55W bulb, not a 65W bulb. The damage you see below is caused from a 65W bulb. For the record, OEM headlight units are about $300 to replace.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZOOf0eCJHS4/U_f-AErPLKI/AAAAAAAACDo/nOS7_WHFI08/s800/higher%2520wattage.jpg
Here is what you should do to overcome the weak OEM beams... HID retrofit... spefically, bixenon HID.
Again from member Doppelganger on ClubRoadster.net (http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/20-exterior-sponsored-r-speed/69869-hid-lights-reflector-housings-reminder-some-you-out-there.html), here's what a proper HID can do for you. A HUGE difference from the HID and LED plug-n-play garbage being sold. Notice the crisp lines, wide beam, and low amount of scatter. In addition to the benefit of being able to create such a precise throw, there are other advantages. First, HID systems can be had with 35W ballasts, therefore these systems use less power than the OEM halogens. Second, HIDs generate about 3,000 lumens which is literally twice the OEM halogen output of 1,500 lumens.
One final note for this picture. Notice the step in the beam is lower on the left and higher on the right. This is by design for LHD (left hand drive) countries. RHD (right hand drive) countries will have HIDs that create opposite steps, the right side is lower than the left. All of this is done, of course, to keep light out of the eyes of oncoming traffic.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EYzKPHYC3Ho/U_gDR5P42DI/AAAAAAAACD4/pFyvWuPgIgQ/s800/onex-hid-cutoff-line-step-6.jpg
With the benefits understood, we should also understand that not all HID projectors are created equal. As with all things, there are subpar units out there that will give you problems.
HID systems are very similar to halogen systems; they both have a light bulb that sit within a reflective housing. For whatever reason the HID systems refer to these housings as projectors instead of reflectors. The HID system has a lens, however, that is not present in halogen systems as well as a ballast, which is essentially a voltage converter needed to operate the HID light bulb. As with halogens, each piece of the HID system is designed in great detail to work together.
Bixenon HIDs set themselves apart by being able to produce a high beam, in addition to a low beam, from a single unit. It accomplishes this by implementing a shield that sits between the bulb housing and the lens. In low beam operation, this shield will block light to the top of the lens. In high beam operation, the shield is lowered and the top of the lens will now transmit light thus producing the high beam effect.
The top performing HID systems will have each piece working together like a well oiled machine to create light like in the picture above. The subpar systems will have a deficiency somewhere that'll cause narrow spreads, non-uniformity, curved cutoffs, and\or sticking shield operation. Choose your HID system wisely.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qyYlPcRWrKc/U_gFlV2uUNI/AAAAAAAACEE/BGQ8_LUymWw/s800/Headlight_projector_schematic.png
Why bixenon... and what are some good HID systems
When upgrading your OEM low beams with an HID retrofit you have two options; i) retrofit with a low-beam only HID or ii) retrofit with a bixenon HID. In both cases your low beams will be better from HID lighting, however, with bixenon when you go to high beams you will have the OEM high beams AND the high beams of the bixenon's. In the bixenon case you are actually adding auxiliary lighting to your bike as part of the package. Further, this auxiliary lighting is properly placed higher on the bike than lighting you would place in the fog light location. Win-win.
One of the more popular and easier HID retrofits is with the Mini H1 projector (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/bi-xenon-morimoto-mini-stage-3-kit-h1.html#.U_gWImcg-ix). Several Goldwingers have done this upgrade, including Macgyver0856 who I mentioned above; the second pic below is his. As shown in the first pic below, the Mini H1 projector has a threaded installation knub on the end that's used with the lock ring nut. All you do is open up your headlight housing, remove the H7 bulb, slide the threaded knub into the bulb opening, tighten down with the lock nut, and install the decorative shroud over the lens. Reassemble the headlight housing and you're basically done except for wiring the ballast and beam alignment.
The forums over on HIDplanet have a ton of discussion on the projector and some people are reporting a sticking shield... and this is not good; this could literally leave you stuck in high beam mode with no way to turn them down to low beams. The Mini H1 kit sold by TheRetrofitSource.com (TRS) has made several improvements over the years, and their current version 6.0 made improvements to the actuating solenoid... so it's quite possible that the sticking shield issue no longer exists. If anybody want to go this route, you may be fine if you get the version 6.0 Mini H1.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ieBhzY2CIgw/U_gRJXcZf3I/AAAAAAAACEU/cX4-FUNCxBs/s800/mini%2520h1.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QScvXUQkqFw/U_gSa9dekAI/AAAAAAAACEc/wBHLrJ38fGo/s800/macs_mini_h1.jpg
TRS, however, sells another better projector that I'm planning to go with; the Lexus RX350 projectors (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/projectors/bi-xenon-lexus-rx350-sti-r-oem-projectors.html#.U_gWCmcg-iw). These are universally praised as being excellent performers in terms of uniformity, intensity, beam width, etc, etc... everything that you want in the best headlight money can buy today. Further, Lexus has a pretty good track record and as Lexus OEM equipment, I'm thinking (hoping) these will be 100% trouble free.
The Lexus projectors are only slightly bigger than the Mini H1's but they don't have the threaded mounting knub; so installation will be more difficult but very doable and worthwhile. I won't give away my secrets (unless someone asks lol) for how I plan to install these but I hope to get this done over the next couple of months.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QGU-IJsKAtQ/U_gZ1ET7GLI/AAAAAAAACEs/HylQskWTKX4/s800/lexus_rx350.jpg