Maintenance. Self or Dealer ?

[wantone]

U do it or let the dealer do it ? I paid $1300 that covers 3 years all factory maintenance including labor and I get priority that means I don't have to wait. When it is due I'll be the first in line. Did I do good or bad. I wud say I ride close to 10K miles a year. Considering it is F6B my annual mileage may go up.

Also Do u use regular, semi or full synthetic oil ? Ahhh the Oil question. I dnt knw y I even asked that . It is F6B, doesn't matter. May be if it was harley then full synthetic wud show difference. Anyway just checking...

[bobbyf6b]

If you already paid for the service then that would be the better option. For input on oil just do a search. We've discussed it many times.

[JackB]

[QUOTE=wantone;44147]U do it or let the dealer do it ? I paid $1300 that covers 3 years all factory maintenance including labor and I get priority that means I don't have to wait. When it is due I'll be the first in line. Did I do good or bad. I wud say I ride close to 10K miles a year. Considering it is F6B my annual mileage may go

So what does the factory maintenance cover? Oil changes, who pays for oil you or dealer? Spark plugs?
I don't think this bike will need a lot of maintenance.

[Steve 0080]

Well.... the dealer charges $100 for an oil change so in three years you will have broke even...if you have any problems , you are money ahead. Now for an oil change, I did it Sun, filter was $6 and oil was $12 for synthetic from Wal Mart on sale. I added the Fumoto valve and was done in about an hour. I got to clean some parts that were off and hard to get to and most of all, I enjoyed myself!

This all boils down to...... wait for it....... if you enjoy tickerin....if you don't, you did good!

[bigbird]

I do all my own maintenance except tire replacements. I'll take off the wheel, but not the tire.
I save big $ by doing everything myself, but more importantly, I know it's done correctly. Of course, a shop manual is a prerequisite for this.
As for oil, Shell Rotella T6 synthetic in 5W-40 weight. As for oil filters, I waffle between Purolator Pure One, Wix, Napa Gold, and OEM. Because the lower cover must be removed to get a longer filter in there, I just stick to the stock filter size.

[SmallPasture]

U do it or let the dealer do it ? I paid $1300 that covers 3 years all factory maintenance including labor and I get priority that means I don't have to wait. When it is due I'll be the first in line. Did I do good or bad. I wud say I ride close to 10K miles a year. Considering it is F6B my annual mileage may go up.

Also Do u use regular, semi or full synthetic oil ? Ahhh the Oil question. I dnt knw y I even asked that . It is F6B, doesn't matter. May be if it was harley then full synthetic wud show difference. Anyway just checking...

As long as your dealer has a reputable service department, and your ride the wheels off of it, heck yeah. 10k a year would mean you would get 6 (4k) services over the 3 years...if my math is right. I try to make them lose money and bring her in enough that I'm getting free service towards the end of the 3 years...at least that's what I tell myself. I've done the service plan on the last 3 bikes and enjoyed the peace of mind that someone that knew what they were doing did the scheduled maintenance. Unlike most here on the forum I don't wrench well. I tend to break s*%t and lose the s*%t I don't break. I'm the definition of what Steve0080 said above!:lolup:

I'm sure you'll find you'll be putting more than 10k a year on it. The 6 has a very powerful draw. It'll make ya ride naked if you sit and talk to it long enough!!!!:yikes: Ok, maybe that just me. Of course as I type this I realize I don't know what neck of the woods your in.

Heck, like you said your first in line no matter when ya bring'er in...that's worth it in itself.

ok...i'm done...so long and thanks for all the fish!

[Phantom]

As for oil, Shell Rotella T6 synthetic in 5W-40 weight. As for oil filters, I waffle between Purolator Pure One, Wix, Napa Gold, and OEM. Because the lower cover must be removed to get a longer filter in there, I just stick to the stock filter size.

...... NOT True :nono: ...... Unless the 2012-2014 lower covers have been re-designed from it's predecessor. I just replaced my oil (T6 also) and LONG Bosch 3323 oil filter this past weekend, although it's tight, didn't have to remove any body parts. Patience is key and a rubber strap oil filter wrench does the trick.

Rotella T6 and Bosch 3323 filter replacement ..... 15 minutes at most for me and under $30 total cost.

Goldwing is Happy, Happy, Happy :icon_mrgreen:

[Texas TC]

The two time consuming maintenance items you will need during your maintenance agreement are air filter change and valve adjustment. If you were going to pay the dealer to do all your maintenance, these tasks along with liquid changes (oil, rear end, and brake/clutch fluid) dictated by Honda should make the agreement price you paid a good deal.

I do my own maintenance. Just a part of the fun of the hobby for me.

[SmallPasture]

I do my own maintenance. Just a part of the fun of the hobby for me.

I'll be by to let ya put any mods I get! I'll watch and hand ya wrenches as needed! :yes::yes::yes:

[bob109]

I do all my own maintenance except tire replacements. I'll take off the wheel, but not the tire.
I save big $ by doing everything myself, but more importantly, I know it's done correctly. Of course, a shop manual is a prerequisite for this.
As for oil, Shell Rotella T6 synthetic in 5W-40 weight. As for oil filters, I waffle between Purolator Pure One, Wix, Napa Gold, and OEM. Because the lower cover must be removed to get a longer filter in there, I just stick to the stock filter size.

+1 The Rotella T6 and Pure One 14612 filter is a great combination for oil changes! The Pure One 14610 is the longer version of the filter:icon_wink:

Performed a little trick by modifying my horn edge which provides some additional room when removing/installing the filter. As I enhance the filter performance with a strong magnet and shield, I needed some additional clearance.

Here's the "horn mod":icon_wink:

http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?545-Oil-Filter-Left-Horn-Proximity

[Scotrod]

I do my own maintenance. Just a part of the fun of the hobby for me.


I'll be by to let ya put any mods I get! I'll watch and hand ya wrenches as needed! :yes::yes::yes:

IMHO, mods are lots more fun and far more satisfying than plain old oil changes. :yes: Haven't run into anything too tough yet,,,, but I'll let the stealer mount/remove tires from wheels.

[bigdew]

As long as you run your bike 10,000-15,000 miles a year or more you will get your investment back, for the price dealers pay for services. If you don't ride that much then you got ripped off. If you look at the service schedule mainly they just do oil changes and inspections of all the levers. Once you rack up the miles is where it will pay off with air filter changes and spark plug changes.

[bigbird]

...... NOT True :nono: ...... Unless the 2012-2014 lower covers have been re-designed from it's predecessor.

I question why you would say it's not true, when you imply you haven't tried it.

[F6BPDX]

I did the prepaid maintenance plan on mine as well. For my dealer that means 2 major services a year, plus unlimited oil changes, for the first 3 years. Since most of the services are glorified oil changes I only use up my 2 per year on the big stuff. My bike is 10 months old, has 16k on it, and just had the service done to replace the air filter (among the rest of the service) and that was a $680 service all by itself. The service that is the first valve check (24k maybe?) is 7.2hrs of labor. I will for sure get my moneys worth by the time 3 years are up.

As was said before, if you are a person who lives in a 4k miles a year sort of climate, or have a busy lifestyle that allows for limited mileage or whatever then it would be something to skip.

[Phantom]

I question why you would say it's not true, when you imply you haven't tried it.

I qualified my response with "UNLESS" it has been re-designed by Honda . There is room on all GoldWings from 2001 - 2010.

You make a great point, since the 2012-2014 models have rectangular foglight openings in the lower cowling, it is possible that the bottom has been extended towards the rear and hence making it more difficult. I will look at a F6B in Franklin and EAT CROW if I am wrong.:icon_cool::yes:

[Scotrod]

. I will look at a F6B in Franklin ,:

It'll be nice to have our very own Admin finally get the chance to see a real F6B 'up close and in person',,,,

:icon_laugh:

:moon:

:nutkick:

'mooning'

:f2:

[Steve 0080]

I remove the cowling, due to using a longer filter, plus a magnet,plus a cover over the oil filter....this also gives me a chance to clean the area up some and add some wax...

[Phantom]

I question why you would say it's not true, when you imply you haven't tried it.

My response STANDS.

I looked at both the full Goldwings and F6B's at the Annual Rally.
The opening underneath behind the lower cowling is indeed IDENTICAL, therefore a longer oil filter will and DOES fit on the F6B. I personally looked at 3 F6B's with the longer oil filters installed and the owners had no problems installing them. As said earlier it is a little tight but doable.

[SpeedyWho]

I use the longer Bosch 3323 Filter and I don't need to take anything off to remove my filter. I have done every oil change (6 so far) on my bike with that filter.

[srt8-in-largo]

Good gawd man; at 6 changes you should be nearing 50,000 miles... or you're changing way too frequently.

[Phantom]

Good gawd man; at 6 changes you should be nearing 50,000 miles... or you're changing way too frequently.

He is one of the first F6B owners, joined this site in Dec 2012

If he changes his oil like I do at every 5,000 miles (easy to remember) he's in the 30,000+ range

[srt8-in-largo]

Well I think he joined the right site :icon_biggrin: This is turning out to be the go to F6 forum.

Maybe one of you early birds will get to the first valve adjustment soon and tell the rest of us how to do them.

[RcBtx1999]

I do all my own maintenance except tire replacements. I'll take off the wheel, but not the tire.
I save big $ by doing everything myself, but more importantly, I know it's done correctly. Of course, a shop manual is a prerequisite for this.
As for oil, Shell Rotella T6 synthetic in 5W-40 weight. As for oil filters, I waffle between Purolator Pure One, Wix, Napa Gold, and OEM. Because the lower cover must be removed to get a longer filter in there, I just stick to the stock filter size.

I agree with you on everything you wrote except you do not have to remove to lower cover for the filter. I used a rubber/plastic strap wrench on the OEM filter and put on the longer Bosch 3323 without removing any cowling whatsoever. If you use the Honda filter wrench you will need the extra room but with these little plastic rubber straps (Sears and Harbor Freight both have them) it's a snap.

[hiflyer]

An oil change is a 10 minute job. If it takes me longer than that, my dog is helping me!

[srt8-in-largo]

... 5 minutes with the help of Mr. Fumoto.

[bigbird]

My response STANDS.

The opening underneath behind the lower cowling is indeed IDENTICAL, therefore a longer oil filter will and DOES fit on the F6B. I personally looked at 3 F6B's with the longer oil filters installed and the owners had no problems installing them. As said earlier it is a little tight but doable.

As does my response. I was on the ground, using only the side stand, and it was IMPOSSIBLE for me to install a longer filter (Purolator PL14610) without removing the lower cowl. Maybe Canadian versions are different? Maybe my hands and fingers are bigger than the other guys, or the other guys were using centre stands? Or maybe I just didn't put enough effort into trying to finagle the longer filter into position? Regardless, I gave up and installed the stock OEM Honda filter. It went on easily with the lower cowl in place.

[RcBtx1999]

I qualified my response with "UNLESS" it has been re-designed by Honda . There is room on all GoldWings from 2001 - 2010.

You make a great point, since the 2012-2014 models have rectangular foglight openings in the lower cowling, it is possible that the bottom has been extended towards the rear and hence making it more difficult. I will look at a F6B in Franklin and EAT CROW if I am wrong.:icon_cool::yes:

Phantom-I just did it yesterday on my 2013 exactly as you stated, rubber strap wrench and all (T-6 and 3323).

[bigbird]

I agree with you on everything you wrote except you do not have to remove to lower cover for the filter. I used a rubber/plastic strap wrench on the OEM filter and put on the longer Bosch 3323 without removing any cowling whatsoever. If you use the Honda filter wrench you will need the extra room but with these little plastic rubber straps (Sears and Harbor Freight both have them) it's a snap.

My problem was getting the longer Purolator filter to clear the cowl in order to screw onto the oil standpipe.
My next oil change, when I put my bike away for the winter, I'll try again with the longer Purolator, this time using my centre stand. Maybe I'll have the required wiggle room then to screw on the longer filter.

BTW, I've decided to forego Rotella T6 in my F6B. I'm currently using Honda GN-4 10W-40, and then Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle synthetic for winter layup.
I just have trouble using non-motorcycle specific oil in an expensive engine and trans with a wet clutch. Yes, I used Rotella T6 in my Silverwing over 5 years, but it didn't have a wet clutch. I'm sure Rotella T6 would be just fine, as many are using it successfully, but I'll sleep better knowing true motorcycle specific oil is in the crankcase, not diesel engine oil.

[bob109]

My problem was getting the longer Purolator filter to clear the cowl in order to screw onto the oil standpipe.
My next oil change, when I put my bike away for the winter, I'll try again with the longer Purolator, this time using my centre stand. Maybe I'll have the required wiggle room then to screw on the longer filter.

BTW, I've decided to forego Rotella T6 in my F6B. I'm currently using Honda GN-4 10W-40, and then Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle synthetic for winter layup.
I just have trouble using non-motorcycle specific oil in an expensive engine and trans with a wet clutch. Yes, I used Rotella T6 in my Silverwing over 5 years, but it didn't have a wet clutch. I'm sure Rotella T6 would be just fine, as many are using it successfully, but I'll sleep better knowing true motorcycle specific oil is in the crankcase, not diesel engine oil.

It appears the "marketeers of motorcycle specific oil" have reeled in another fish:lolup: Rotella T6 has the JASO endorsement on the container and the API Logo indicates it is "Non-Energy Conserving" which makes it safe for "wet clutch" applications. Diesels, by their very nature, create as much or more "shear stress" on oil, as any cycle engine, with shared wet clutch design, ever will:stirthepot:

Logically speaking:shhh: with the money saved, in not buying "motorcycle specific oil", you could buy some "Sleeping Pills" and sleep like a baby:icon_biggrin:

[Bike44]

If additional clearance is needed for oil/filter changes (?), remove the single left lower 5mm hex screw that attaches the lower fairing. Pull the plastic forward as required to access the filter and whatever. No need to remove the whole fairing. Use a filter wrench that fits the filter or slide a flexible strap over the filter.

[zzh54]

Does anyone have a part number for the Fumoto valve ?? I think that would make things go a little faster

[bigbird]

Rotella T6 has the JASO endorsement on the container and the API Logo indicates it is "Non-Energy Conserving" which makes it safe for "wet clutch" applications. Diesels, by their very nature, create as much or more "shear stress" on oil, as any cycle engine, with shared wet clutch design, ever will:stirthepot:


I'm well aware that Rotella is JASO MA rated. I'm also aware that Rotella has extra additives for ash deposit control. Does a Goldwing engine require ash deposit control? No. How does the ash deposit control additive affect the clutch? You and I don't know unless we test it scientifically. I'll spend the extra $2/liter (Canada) for Goldwing specific oil. If I could buy a sleeping pill prescription for the saved $8 then I would send them to you. It seems you are more agitated by my not using Rotella than I am.

[bigbird]

If additional clearance is needed for oil/filter changes (?), remove the single left lower 5mm hex screw that attaches the lower fairing. Pull the plastic forward as required to access the filter and whatever. No need to remove the whole fairing. Use a filter wrench that fits the filter or slide a flexible strap over the filter.

Best suggestion yet.

Thanks.

[Hornblower]

Does anyone have a part number for the Fumoto valve ?? I think that would make things go a little faster

Hey Z, here's my original thread on it:

http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?358-Fumoto-Drain-Valve-for-F6B&highlight=Fumoto

Any questions, shoot me a PM :yes:

[bob109]

I'm well aware that Rotella is JASO MA rated. I'm also aware that Rotella has extra additives for ash deposit control. Does a Goldwing engine require ash deposit control? No. How does the ash deposit control additive affect the clutch? You and I don't know unless we test it scientifically. I'll spend the extra $2/liter (Canada) for Goldwing specific oil. If I could buy a sleeping pill prescription for the saved $8 then I would send them to you. It seems you are more agitated by my not using Rotella than I am.

On the contrary! You could use "olive oil and vinegar" in your crankcase and it would't make a difference to me:icon_wink:

This debate is done in fun! Don't take me too seriously....nobody else does:icon_doh:

Ride Safe:039:

[Phantom]

It appears the "marketeers of motorcycle specific oil" have reeled in another fish:lolup: Rotella T6 has the JASO endorsement on the container and the API Logo indicates it is "Non-Energy Conserving" which makes it safe for "wet clutch" applications. Diesels, by their very nature, create as much or more "shear stress" on oil, as any cycle engine, with shared wet clutch design, ever will:stirthepot:

Logically speaking:shhh: with the money saved, in not buying "motorcycle specific oil", you could buy some "Sleeping Pills" and sleep like a baby:icon_biggrin:

:icon_cool::yes: Well said

Ash deposits or worn clutch debris are both suspended in Rotella until they reach the oil filter where the large particles are captured. That is how motorcycle and Diesel oils are designed to perform.

Diesel Trucks that pull 80,000 LBS of Cargo plus their tractor weight every day have their Rotella Dinosaur oil replaced every 25,000 - 30,000 miles ..... changing my Rotella Synthetic on my Goldwing every 5,000 miles knowing that is has only pulled 1,100 LBS ...... I sleep very well.

[Reedman71]

I use Rotella in all my bikes. Combined, I have over 100,000 miles on them in two years. As a member of forums for each bike that I own, Rotella is clearly the oil of choice for motorcycles with wet clutches. I just changed the Honda oil out at 3000 miles because shifting was getting clunky. The new Rotella makes this bike shift like a dream.

[Injun Joe]

I use Rotella in all my bikes. Combined, I have over 100,000 miles on them in two years. As a member of forums for each bike that I own, Rotella is clearly the oil of choice for motorcycles with wet clutches. I just changed the Honda oil out at 3000 miles because shifting was getting clunky. The new Rotella makes this bike shift like a dream.

What do you hear about Royal Purple? Some ad or something someone said way back when I first started riding again got me hooked on it and that's what I've used since without really thinking too much about it. Never even heard about Rotella until reading here.

[bob109]

:icon_cool::yes: Well said

Ash deposits or worn clutch debris are both suspended in Rotella until they reach the oil filter where the large particles are captured. That is how motorcycle and Diesel oils are designed to perform.

Diesel Trucks that pull 80,000 LBS of Cargo plus their tractor weight every day have their Rotella Dinosaur oil replaced every 25,000 - 30,000 miles ..... changing my Rotella Synthetic on my Goldwing every 5,000 miles knowing that is has only pulled 1,100 LBS ...... I sleep very well.

+1 Heavy Duty Diesel Oils like Rotella T6 are just that, "Heavy Duty".

[srt8-in-largo]

What do you hear about Royal Purple? Some ad or something someone said way back when I first started riding again got me hooked on it and that's what I've used since without really thinking too much about it. Never even heard about Rotella until reading here.

RP is a quality oil; they do a good job with additive packages that match the use... and this is the key. You could have the highest quality oil in the world but if the formulation and additives were not meant for YOUR SPECIFIC application, then it may not be the best for you.

[srt8-in-largo]

I'm well aware that Rotella is JASO MA rated. I'm also aware that Rotella has extra additives for ash deposit control. Does a Goldwing engine require ash deposit control? No. How does the ash deposit control additive affect the clutch? You and I don't know unless we test it scientifically. I'll spend the extra $2/liter (Canada) for Goldwing specific oil. If I could buy a sleeping pill prescription for the saved $8 then I would send them to you. It seems you are more agitated by my not using Rotella than I am.

I subscribe to this philosophy.

I have a question mark in the back of my head when I reach for the oil jug and it says diesel on it. On the other hand, when I reach for the jug of Pro Honda GN4 and it says full synthetic motorcycle oil on it I don't have those doubts.

It's my bike; I get to choose the oil :icon_biggrin:



Hey Z, here's my original thread on it:

http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?358-Fumoto-Drain-Valve-for-F6B&highlight=Fumoto

Any questions, shoot me a PM :yes:

That's where I found the p\n! Thanks Ken!

This baby fits perfectly and has a hose nipple; you can use it with or without a hose attached. I'd prefer to have a 90 degree elbow on the end so that the oil didn't stream out. I almost went with another p\n that would allow me to fit an extension and an elbow on it, but eh, this one will do just fine.

[F6BLK]

I use the longer Bosch 3323 Filter and I don't need to take anything off to remove my filter. I have done every oil change (6 so far) on my bike with that filter.

How much oil does it take per change with longer filter! I plan on doing oil changes once per year when I put the bike in the barn in the fall! genuine Honda oil!

[SpeedyWho]

Good gawd man; at 6 changes you should be nearing 50,000 miles... or you're changing way too frequently.

Personally, I don't believe in too frequently. I spent over 20K on a bike I plan on owning for many years the cost of an oil change doesn't bother me in the least.

Changes to date 1k, 2500, 5k, 10k, 15, 20k, almost ready for 25k. 5K is super easy to remember too, plus I get the all important "warm and fuzzy feeling"

[Steve 0080]

How much oil does it take per change with longer filter! I plan on doing oil changes once per year when I put the bike in the barn in the fall! genuine Honda oil!

Same one gallon.....

[SpeedyWho]

Same one gallon.....

+1

I've checked it several times, its always spot on.

[Texas TC]

Personally, I don't believe in too frequently. I spent over 20K on a bike I plan on owning for many years the cost of an oil change doesn't bother me in the least.

Changes to date 1k, 2500, 5k, 10k, 15, 20k, almost ready for 25k. 5K is super easy to remember too, plus I get the all important "warm and fuzzy feeling"

My frequency has been every 4000 miles. I purchase several gallons of Honda oil, filters and crush washers from Wing Stuff when they have their freight free promotions. Inexpensive Honda oil with no tax and no freight is hard to beat. I have enough for the next 5 or 6 oil changes in the garage now. 2000 more miles and I will change it again at 24000. At that time, I will also change the shaft oil. I bought 4 oil changes for the shaft. I have NGK Iridium spark plugs, good for 100,000 miles, on order and will install them next week. I changed the air filter to K& N last week so I will be set for a while on the important routine maintenece items.

[RcBtx1999]

It appears the "marketeers of motorcycle specific oil" have reeled in another fish:lolup: Rotella T6 has the JASO endorsement on the container and the API Logo indicates it is "Non-Energy Conserving" which makes it safe for "wet clutch" applications. Diesels, by their very nature, create as much or more "shear stress" on oil, as any cycle engine, with shared wet clutch design, ever will:stirthepot:

Logically speaking:shhh: with the money saved, in not buying "motorcycle specific oil", you could buy some "Sleeping Pills" and sleep like a baby:icon_biggrin:

I like the T-6 and the Bosch 3323, but each to his own................"if it makes you happy, it tickles me plum to death", is what we say down here in GOD's Country!!!!!!:banghead::icon_doh::stirthepot: After giving it careful thought I am now going to take all my motorcycle oil and go put it my Diesel Truck. Just because I can!!!!!!