speaker up grade and sub

[smokinjoe187]

So it winter in cali
we have about two weeks of no riding season
so i have been planing a sound upgrade
i changed the front speakers to polk audio db 651 s from amazon
and to kick this shit up a notch
i installed a kenwood sub
model ksc-sw11 from amazon
i used the wiring from the kit
i adjusted it ,all i can say is money money...
took a day but i had it apart any way as i added a dual usb in the right side shelter
you do have to trim the top and side of these speaker for the cover to lock back in
but let me say its way worth the 200 dollars i spent
flame on!!
btw i love my heli bars and ultimate seat plus my bluetooth aux in,i can just ride for miles and miles

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Cool way to add a sub with it's own amp.
I'll bet it compliments your new speakers nicely

Thanks Joe, for posting the pics and diagram.
Jim

[smokinjoe187]

Cool way to add a sub with it's own amp.
I'll bet it compliments your new speakers nicely

Thanks Joe, for posting the pics and diagram.
Jim
My pleasure
btw the amp is on a molex plug so it can be removed with 2 screws...
simple clean,and yes its a very clean sound
and with avc it stays constant

[smokinjoe187]

My pleasure
btw the amp is on a molex plug so it can be removed with 2 screws...
simple clean,and yes its a very clean sound
and with avc it stays constant

there was 1 other small issue though
i had to vent the bags at the top
the bags are sealed so well sound barely comes out a sub needs air but i solved this using uni air box vents

[motoman]

Very good info, Thanks!

Just to confirm, did you use the stock OEM Honda F6B amp for the front speakers? Do you feel it has enough power?

[CoCoKola]

according to this artice (http://www.rattlebars.com/radio/faq.html) (OLD!) the amp on a goldwing only puts out 9-11 watts per channel at 4ohms a .5% thd.

New amp & new speakers = easy improvement if that is still the case..

[Jimmytee]

according to this artice (http://www.rattlebars.com/radio/faq.html) (OLD!) the amp on a goldwing only puts out 9-11 watts per channel at 4ohms a .5% thd.

New amp & new speakers = easy improvement if that is still the case..

That was for the older GL1800 audio system. The one we have in our F6B is substantially better, but still not what you can buy with a fairly modest expenditure. I am adding an amp to my bike. I have dug into the factory harness and pulled the pre out signals from the OEM Audio Unit/Head unit . The difference is substantial. I measured the difference in another thread.

[smokinjoe187]

That was for the older GL1800 audio system. The one we have in our F6B is substantially better, but still not what you can buy with a fairly modest expenditure. I am adding an amp to my bike. I have dug into the factory harness and pulled the pre out signals from the OEM Audio Unit/Head unit . The difference is substantial. I measured the difference in another thread.

yes i used the oem amp just used the speaker leads for input
the sub came with a trick little cable to convert it to rca
i remembered there was a thread with the amp location and wiring
buy frankly thats not a me project
my goal was simple,add a sub simpley and it does that
the 651s are far superior to stock
it is smallis and i dont loose my whole bag and after I
adjust the cross over to say 70 xhz it helps clean up mid and the sub adds a lillte bump
and i think i had a good garage day,and spent less tham 200 bucks

[Jimmytee]

yes i used the oem amp just used the speaker leads for input
the sub came with a trick little cable to convert it to rca
i remembered there was a thread with the amp location and wiring
buy frankly thats not a me project
my goal was simple,add a sub simpley and it does that
the 651s are far superior to stock
it is smallis and i dont loose my whole bag and after I
adjust the cross over to say 70 xhz it helps clean up mid and the sub adds a lillte bump
and i think i had a good garage day,and spent less tham 200 bucks

So you just got one sub? How does it sound going down the road? I read reviews of several of those compact self powered subs , and with that and having heard some in person, I didn't think that they would be adequate to add any real low end. I didn't have any success in trying to convert the speaker level power to line level power. Lot's of distortion as if the inputs were being overdriven. The adapters were rated to 50 watts and I don't see the OEM amp over driving that. Maybe. I ended up tapping into the wiring harness to use the pre out signals from the OEM head unit. Maybe you're not hearing it because of the low pass filter in the sub.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

My pleasure
btw the amp is on a molex plug so it can be removed with 2 screws...
simple clean,and yes its a very clean sound
and with avc it stays constant

Perfect, for the times storage space out does great tunes..or when my wife's stuff over flows into my side..
Thanks again,Joe.
One last winter mod....

[smokinjoe187]

So you just got one sub? How does it sound going down the road? I read reviews of several of those compact self powered subs , and with that and having heard some in person, I didn't think that they would be adequate to add any real low end. I didn't have any success in trying to convert the speaker level power to line level power. Lot's of distortion as if the inputs were being overdriven. The adapters were rated to 50 watts and I don't see the OEM amp over driving that. Maybe. I ended up tapping into the wiring harness to use the pre out signals from the OEM head unit. Maybe you're not hearing it because of the low pass filter in the sub.

yup just one sub
im not a high end audio guy
i set my sights way lower,i wanted a little better clarity and a little bump,yes it won't bump like crazy but the avc works and i now have bass and plus i still have my bag

for high end audio i have my truck 4 kicker speakers a 10 inchfosgate sub and alpine amps behind a pioneer app radio 4

i ride my bike alot so this addition for me was perfect and it has the added value of driving my harley brothers crazy

[stepbill]

Nice looking job! Was it hard to trim the speakers and where did you end up cutting. Been thinking about upgrading my front speakers.

[smokinjoe187]

Nice looking job! Was it hard to trim the speakers and where did you end up cutting. Been thinking about upgrading my front speakers.

it was pretty easy
i just marked them and trimmed with my dremel
you can re slot them or just re drill them to fit
you really only need to trim the bottoms to clear the speaker cover
but i trimmed the side by the console too

[smokinjoe187]

there was 1 other small issue though
i had to vent the bags at the top
the bags are sealed so well sound barely comes out a sub needs air but i solved this using uni air box vents

new pics posted,i used a 7/8s hole saw..pay attention to where the frame tubes are,be careful as it goes through its close
Enjoy!!
looking forward to pics from jimmie tee!

[Jimmytee]

new pics posted,i used a 7/8s hole saw..pay attention to where the frame tubes are,be careful as it goes through its close
Enjoy!!
looking forward to pics from jimmie tee!

Looking forward to it too. Thanks for the pics. Waiting on the sub to arrive. http://http://www.jlaudio.com/cp106lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93300
http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-CP106LG-W3v3-Slot-Ported-Enclosure/dp/B0082DJ54E/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t
I just ordered it yesterday. I was trying to decide which way I wanted to go with the sub. Ultimately figured I wanted to try the JL micro sub. I already have the amplifier mounted and powering the new Polk MM component speakers on the front channels and will bridge the rear channels for the sub. As soon as I get it and am satisfied, I will post pics.

[Heavvyduty]

So it winter in cali
we have about two weeks of no riding season
so i have been planing a sound upgrade
i changed the front speakers to polk audio db 651 s from amazon
and to kick this shit up a notch
i installed a kenwood sub
model ksc-sw11 from amazon
i used the wiring from the kit
i adjusted it ,all i can say is money money...
took a day but i had it apart any way as i added a dual usb in the right side shelter
you do have to trim the top and side of these speaker for the cover to lock back in
but let me say its way worth the 200 dollars i spent
flame on!!
btw i love my heli bars and ultimate seat plus my bluetooth aux in,i can just ride for miles and miles

Did you install your HELI bar's yourself?

[smokinjoe187]

Did you install your HELI bar's yourself?

yup got me a good set of tools!!
the instructions are great and a must have option

[CoCoKola]

Looking forward to it too. Thanks for the pics. Waiting on the sub to arrive. http://http://www.jlaudio.com/cp106lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93300
http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-CP106LG-W3v3-Slot-Ported-Enclosure/dp/B0082DJ54E/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t
I just ordered it yesterday. I was trying to decide which way I wanted to go with the sub. Ultimately figured I wanted to try the JL micro sub. I already have the amplifier mounted and powering the new Polk MM component speakers on the front channels and will bridge the rear channels for the sub. As soon as I get it and am satisfied, I will post pics.


The first link didn't work for me. I think this was the linK? http://www.jlaudio.com/cp106lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93300


For the three pictures, what is the second picture I am looking at? Nice Sub, where are you mounting it? I might think twice about getting one. I was originally thinking a pair of 6x9 forward facing so i don't take much room from the sattlebags. Who knows? ;)

so excited to have an upgrade pending for the sound.. even with my baggershield, it was just lacking and so heavy at 2KHz.

cheers!
-Rob

[smokinjoe187]

Looking forward to it too. Thanks for the pics. Waiting on the sub to arrive. http://http://www.jlaudio.com/cp106lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93300
http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-CP106LG-W3v3-Slot-Ported-Enclosure/dp/B0082DJ54E/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t
I just ordered it yesterday. I was trying to decide which way I wanted to go with the sub. Ultimately figured I wanted to try the JL micro sub. I already have the amplifier mounted and powering the new Polk MM component speakers on the front channels and will bridge the rear channels for the sub. As soon as I get it and am satisfied, I will post pics.

i pulled the foam out cause it still buffers the sound
the vents have small holes seems to be ok so far but i think a little panty hose left overs might be the ticket

[Jimmytee]

I have ordered a couple of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Straightline-Performance-Frogzskin-Universal-Circle/dp/B0031BU4BU/ref=sr_1_23?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1421013229&sr=1-23&keywords=frogzskin
The Frogzskin allow air to pass but not water. The material is used on some of the speaker lid designs for Harley style bags. I originally was sure that I was going to mount subs in a couple of locations( one location in each bag). There is a recessed area in the bag. On the clutch side bag, this area has the strap for the manual/ tool kit bolted to it. Anyways, the more I've thought about it and listened to the JL micro subs, I figured I try one. I was thinking I may use one of those Frogzskin vents in that area. I have a couple of small penetrations in the top of the bag right now where my wires come in and out. Those are underneath where the seat sits..

[CoCoKola]

I have ordered a couple of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Straightline-Performance-Frogzskin-Universal-Circle/dp/B0031BU4BU/ref=sr_1_23?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1421013229&sr=1-23&keywords=frogzskin
The Frogzskin allow air to pass but not water. The material is used on some of the speaker lid designs for Harley style bags. I originally was sure that I was going to mount subs in a couple of locations( one location in each bag). There is a recessed area in the bag. On the clutch side bag, this area has the strap for the manual/ tool kit bolted to it. Anyways, the more I've thought about it and listened to the JL micro subs, I figured I try one. I was thinking I may use one of those Frogzskin vents in that area. I have a couple of small penetrations in the top of the bag right now where my wires come in and out. Those are underneath where the seat sits..

Would like to see that. I was told there is a switch to ground there also that you can tie in some led strip lighting so you can see in the bags at night. Subs on my bike, man.. I just need to find some quick disconnects for the power and cables to make it easily removable. I normally use that room when traveling, but daily commune or weekend rides I could spare the room if the subs hit hard. Could the nvx amp channel 3 and 4 be used to drive the sub? 175w rms bridged.. it takes 150, right? So that would be perfect.

If I read the sub specs right, that is a foot by a foot box, guess it would fit , but how much area would need to be frogskin to allow it to hit? Almost seems like it would be better to have just the sub mounted so the bag wad the box with a tuned port.. Did someone say they were a car audio expert?

[smokinjoe187]

i agree that might be the perfect size I'm sure those frogskins might prove out perfect

i can see trimming the square one to fit and using some industrial velcro or double back tape

seems another idea has sprung up

i like the small digital amp you guys posted

if only there was a way to cut the sub into the side of the bag

maybe amp in the right bag?

sub in the left by the manual

[CoCoKola]

i agree that might be the perfect size I'm sure those frogskins might prove out perfect

i can see trimming the square one to fit and using some industrial velcro or double back tape

seems another idea has sprung up

i like the small digital amp you guys posted

if only there was a way to cut the sub into the side of the bag

maybe amp in the right bag?

sub in the left by the manual

Amp can't go where the stock one lived?

[smokinjoe187]

if i read it right no
me i wanted bass and simple
done deal
i think jimmietee went above and beyond to do this job
im not tearing mine down and chance messing it up

[Jimmytee]

Amp can't go where the stock one lived?

Kinda, sorta, NO The OEM is no longer on my bike and the little compartment it was in is now empty. The OEM amp will reside in my garage next to my OEM speakers, handlebars,windshield,seat etc....:icon_cool: I tried putting the amp in there, but while the dimensions are big enough for the amp, when you add the required wiring and RCA connectors , I wasn't happy with it. I'm not sure I could not have found a way to make it fit, but I was not absolutely convinced that was where I wanted it in the first place. I had made a wiring harness with the OEM plug back there. The combined heat shrink and length of wiring I used made for too much cable to fit back there when I went to put everything together, plus the NVX amp had to sit vertically in the little compartment with the RCAs on top. It all looked really good until I tried to put it back together and was having some frustrated words, It just wasn't going to go. I could have ordered some RCA right angle connectors and shortened up the wiring harness I made, but at that point I was done and decided to mount it in the left bag. I know it's safe in there, and I can make adjustments if I like. It really does not take up any room in there. Oh yeah, and the OEM wiring is only good for tapping into the preout signals from the Audio unit. All power and speaker wires are added. The OEM speaker wires are not good for the power of the new amp. I tried ,out of curiosity, no go. Definitely much improved with some decent speaker wore from the amp to the speakers.

The Frogzskins are just vents. They are peel and stick. You can also buy the material for custom work if one wanted. I will only be using them as way to vent the low frequency sound waves from the sub. It is all trial so to speak. Unlike Harleys and such, there aren't a lot of people , at least not on the web, who have done serious upgrades in the Gold Wing audio.

[Jimmytee]

i agree that might be the perfect size I'm sure those frogskins might prove out perfect

i can see trimming the square one to fit and using some industrial velcro or double back tape

seems another idea has sprung up

i like the small digital amp you guys posted

if only there was a way to cut the sub into the side of the bag

maybe amp in the right bag?

sub in the left by the manual

A 6.5 " sub will fit perfectly in the right side saddlebag. You could also get one in the left bag, but some more work needed in there as the same area in the left side is not flat. Here is a pic of someone who mounted 8" JL audio W3 apekaers.
105611056210563

These required some fiberglass work though. I had originally thought of doing the same, but wanted to try out the 6.5" as they are a much easier fit and the one's I've heard from JL Audio and Digital Designs really put out some tremendous bass. I have decided to try out the engineered enclosure with the JL Audio driver first. It will be easily removable. Like how long it take you to open the bag essentially, if I need the space for a trip.

[CoCoKola]

A 6.5 " sub will fit perfectly in the right side saddlebag. You could also get one in the left bag, but some more work needed in there as the same area in the left side is not flat. Here is a pic of someone who mounted 8" JL audio W3 apekaers.
105611056210563

These required some fiberglass work though. I had originally thought of doing the same, but wanted to try out the 6.5" as they are a much easier fit and the one's I've heard from JL Audio and Digital Designs really put out some tremendous bass. I have decided to try out the engineered enclosure with the JL Audio driver first. It will be easily removable. Like how long it take you to open the bag essentially, if I need the space for a trip.


Amazing discussion and information! Jimmytee and smokinjoe187, you both have earned some serious respect for you contributions!

I am chomping at the bit to do this upgrade, but my job is ending and until I know I have my next job started, I can't spend the coin.. even though I will have the free time and it is the perfect downtime.

I wonder if we could find a vendor who would make a kit to make this upgrade possible.. I might research for harness tap parts etc to make this as clean as possible.

smokinjoe, I am thinking based on your experience, pehaps locating the amp near the fairings? then again keeping the rca lines short good..

[smokinjoe187]

i'm gonna say at this point Jimmie is way more knowing about the electrical side of this job
the radio head unit is located under the storage box on top i think,there is space for a small digital amp under the right side pocket,
a good waterproff location close to the radio and close to the wiring harness and speakers.
i'm sure they sell amps for car audio with no rca inputs that use the speaker leads
like i said when i started, i wanted a simple upgrade,no cutting apart the wiring harness.
i cant wait to see what jimmie comes up with though!!
and yes thats the great thing about this forum,great people and great info
here is a thought i used this on my truck its a digtal amp small and might just give it
lots of punch

Alpine KTP-445A Power Pack
Alpine KTP-445A Power Pack
from crutchfield

Compact upgrade for your Alpine receiver — 45 watts RMS x 4

(100)

In Stock

dimensions: 7-7/8"W x 1-1/2"H x 2-9/16"D
compact plug-and-play amplifier for Alpine in-dash receivers
Free Shipping
$129.99

Add to Cart
Scratch & Dent: $110.49
or a 4 channel amp
small size speaker inputs

Clarion XC1410
Compact 4-channel amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4
Item #: 020XC1410

In Stock

63 Reviews | 10 questions - 37 answers

Your price: $129.99
Earn up to 130 Rewards points
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[motoman]

I have been considering an audio upgrade for a while, and I am very disappointed to hear that with a bike the size of the F6B, it is so difficult to install a honking aftermarket amp! The rear end is huge, there must be a way to find some space even if some cutting is required. What about going somewhere into the rear wheel well?

[CoCoKola]

smokinjoe187
Alpine KTP-445A Power Pack
Alpine KTP-445A Power Pack
from crutchfield

Clarion XC1410
Compact 4-channel amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4
In Stock


thalpine has a HD of 1%, so that's a deal killer for me.

Carion signal to nose is 80db, which is low and it is not bridgeable.

check out my earier post on poweramps. either would work well, just not as well ;)

[Jimmytee]

i'm gonna say at this point Jimmie is way more knowing about the electrical side of this job
the radio head unit is located under the storage box on top i think,there is space for a small digital amp under the right side pocket,
a good waterproff location close to the radio and close to the wiring harness and speakers.
i'm sure they sell amps for car audio with no rca inputs that use the speaker leads
like i said when i started, i wanted a simple upgrade,no cutting apart the wiring harness.
i cant wait to see what jimmie comes up with though!!
and yes thats the great thing about this forum,great people and great info
here is a thought i used this on my truck its a digtal amp small and might just give it
lots of punch

Alpine KTP-445A Power Pack
Alpine KTP-445A Power Pack
from crutchfield

Compact upgrade for your Alpine receiver — 45 watts RMS x 4

(100)

In Stock

dimensions: 7-7/8"W x 1-1/2"H x 2-9/16"D
compact plug-and-play amplifier for Alpine in-dash receivers
Free Shipping
$129.99

Add to Cart
Scratch & Dent: $110.49
or a 4 channel amp
small size speaker inputs

Clarion XC1410
Compact 4-channel amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4
Item #: 020XC1410

In Stock

63 Reviews | 10 questions - 37 answers

Your price: $129.99
Earn up to 130 Rewards points
Add to Cart

I originally intended to use the factory speaker leads to feed the amplifier. This proved highly unsatisfactory. I tried to use the speaker leads through the speaker level inputs on the amp and through some adapters I bought. Both had the same result. It was as if the speaker level from the OEM was too high or the OEM amplifier just did not like being adapted to the input of another amp.Either way, if that had been the only way, I would have simply reverted everything to stock before wanting that outcome. It was riddled with distortion. I then , thought about using the headset jack for the input signal to the amplifier. I tapped into the wiring harness of the headset cable and soldered in a left and right RCA. This sounded great. You don't have to tap into the harness as I did, there is an adapter that can plug into the headset harness and give you an 1/8" stereo jack. You can then plug an adapter into that( RCA to 1/8" ). The thing with this way, is that you have to keep the headset button engaged.It's not a big deal, but the more I thought about it, I wanted to have everything act or function as it normally would. So that is when I dug out the OEM amplifier and got into the wires that supply the pre out signal from the Audio unit. The Audio unit sits under the passenger seat. The controls on the left side of the fairing are really nothing more than that, controls. The Audio unit is where the signals are processed and where your antenna plugs unto. The signals for front left,right /rear right and left go to the amplifier. Yes, it is all four channel just like on the normal Gold Wing. Just no speakers attached.

Tapping into the harness is not that bad at all, but it might not be for the faint of heart. I actually cut all the leads mid way going to the OEM amplifier. This allowed me enough wire to easily find and identify,with a wiring diagram, the wires I needed. I did nothing I was not absolutely sure I could reverse if I chose to do, but I've been soldering and heat shrinking splices for a long while. It's not that hard to do. I work with wiring schematics much more complex than what's on this bike and actually work in controls and such for my occupation. If you can solder, which is the only way I want to make splices, you can accomplish the same thing.

I'll add that there are line level adapters that are rated for higher wattage than the ones I used. Maybe those would work without the need to get into the wiring harness as I did. The ones I used were supposed to be rated for 40-50 watts. I have a hard tome thinking that the OEM amplifier was putting out more than that though. I had thought of buying some adapters rated to at least 80 watts. Who knows, that may have done the trick and I wouldn't have gone through what I did. However, in my mind, I could have also bought another adapter and had the same result. So I decided not to fool with it and I did what I did.

[Jimmytee]

thalpine has a HD of 1%, so that's a deal killer for me.

Carion signal to nose is 80db, which is low and it is not bridgeable.

check out my earier post on poweramps. either would work well, just not as well ;)

From my own personal experience , these are two great amplifers.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_69802_Kenwood-eXcelon-XR400-4.html

http://http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html

I paid less than what those prices listed. The NVX seems to be fairly exclusive to Sonic Electronix. We paid $159 for it and then shortly after, the price went up.

The Kenwood I have on my Valkyrie. It is awesome. I paid $200 for it locally and have seen it priced similarly on Amazon.
With amplifiers, like other things, you get what you pay for. I'm pretty impressed by the NVX so far. I can't wait until I see how it handles the sub. I should have more than 175 watts to power the sub with the rear channels bridged.

[smokinjoe187]

im going to still try and keep it simple
the alpine does allow a simple way to add a bigger amp and its small and long with 4 leads alowing seperate amp signals
2 to front speaker 2 to sub inputs with speaker inputs
you dont loose the avc and it will fit under the right shelter
yes its not audiophile grade
but it fits in my inital premise
inexpensive
do it your self at home
and a plug and play option

[Jimmytee]

im going to still try and keep it simple
the alpine does allow a simple way to add a bigger amp and its small and long with 4 leads alowing seperate amp signals
2 to front speaker 2 to sub inputs with speaker inputs
you dont loose the avc and it will fit under the right shelter
yes its not audiophile grade
but it fits in my inital premise
inexpensive
do it your self at home
and a plug and play option

Both the amps I listed should allow a person to hook up speaker level wiring. The problem was there was lots of distortion this way. Distortion you may not be hearing with your amplified subwoofer and the upper frequencies absent. Good luck. I have been corresponding with thatonebiker . He is doing a very similar upgrade. He installed the Polk MM 650 component speakers and is using the same NVX amp. He has mounted his amp up in the fairing behind the instrument panel.I thought about this too , but I had already mounted my crossovers there. He fabbed up a mounting plate for it to go there. He then fabbed up a mounting plate for the crossovers to reside in underneath the right side cover over the right radiator.

I looked at those Alpines back when I was choosing amplifiers for my Valkyrie. I looked at those and the Rockford Punch PBR amplifiers. A local guy who does a lot of custom bike audio,steered me towards the Kenwood I used on that and I have been very impressed with it. More than satisfied. So far I am pretty impressed with the NVX as well.

[smokinjoe187]

Both the amps I listed should allow a person to hook up speaker level wiring. The problem was there was lots of distortion this way. Distortion you may not be hearing with your amplified subwoofer and the upper frequencies absent. Good luck. I have been corresponding with thatonebiker . He is doing a very similar upgrade. He installed the Polk MM 650 component speakers and is using the same NVX amp. He has mounted his amp up in the fairing behind the instrument panel.I thought about this too , but I had already mounted my crossovers there. He fabbed up a mounting plate for it to go there. He then fabbed up a mounting plate for the crossovers to reside in underneath the right side cover over the right radiator.

I looked at those Alpines back when I was choosing amplifiers for my Valkyrie. I looked at those and the Rockford Punch PBR amplifiers. A local guy who does a lot of custom bike audio,steered me towards the Kenwood I used on that and I have been very impressed with it. More than satisfied. So far I am pretty impressed with the NVX as well.

I decided to just ride it like this for a while
We have lots of guys doing different things
You are correct
No distortion so far
I got the new vent material an may add another two holes but I'm happy so far
Thanks for all the great input
Ride safe

[Jimmytee]

I got the JL Audio micro sub today. Hooked it up to the NVX amp and WOW!!!!!:biggthumpup::icon_mrgreen::clap2::clap2:: clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::c lap2:

I'm feeling really good right now. This baby rocks.

[53driver]

I got the JL Audio micro sub today. Hooked it up to the NVX amp and WOW!!!!!:biggthumpup::icon_mrgreen::clap2::clap2:: clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::c lap2:

I'm feeling really good right now. This baby rocks.

Where did you install the sub?

[Jimmytee]

Where did you install the sub?

10606

It fits nicely. There is still some room for rain gear maybe a motorcycle cover,gloves etc... Plus , if I really need the room, I can just unplug the sub and leave it at home.

[Jimmytee]

The sub is vented in two places and I used a product called Frogzskin to allow air to pass but keep out water. Here are a few pics of the vents. Instead of large holes, I drilled many smaller holes within a circle pattern. One vent faces the rear wheel and the other is towards the front if the bag under the seat near the battery.
10607106081060910610

[smokinjoe187]

The sub is vented in two places and I used a product called Frogzskin to allow air to pass but keep out water. Here are a few pics of the vents. Instead of large holes, I drilled many smaller holes within a circle pattern. One vent faces the rear wheel and the other is towards the front if the bag under the seat near the battery.
10607106081060910610

i found the vents to the back wheel make the difference,even my smallish sub bumps now..
frogskins on order!!

[Jimmytee]

Yeah those Frogzskins are really cool. I first learned of them when I was shopping for potential speaker options for my Valkyrie. There are speaker kits for Harley bags ( I have Road King Classic bags on my Valkyrie) that listed a screen product called Frogzskin to keep out water. A simple Google revealed that they are designed for snowmobiles and personal watercraft to vent air intakes etc... The product comes in many shapes and sizes. It also can be bought as just the material. The pre shaped ones ,like the circles I bought, are basically peel and stick and can conform to corners etc... Pretty cool.

Yes, this sub hits hard. It's hard to believe all that bass is coming from just a 6.5" driver. I have decided , though, that I am going to line the left bag with some Dynamat sound deadening material. On really heavy bass material and high volume, the bag begins to have a slight rattle. Nothing really bad, but the sound deadening material should eliminate it. Going on a ride today.Will test it out while riding. Suppose to be high of 55.:biggthumpup:

[53driver]

Nice job. Personally, I'm not ready to lose a bag for a sub, but I'm sure it rocks.
Good on you.

[Jimmytee]

Nice job. Personally, I'm not ready to lose a bag for a sub, but I'm sure it rocks.
Good on you.

That's the thing. The sub is removed in about as long as it take you to open the saddlebag. If I need the space, voila"coffee"

[53driver]

That's the thing. The sub is removed in about as long as it take you to open the saddlebag. If I need the space, voila"coffee"

THAT'S cool.

[smokinjoe187]

Nice job. Personally, I'm not ready to lose a bag for a sub, but I'm sure it rocks.
Good on you.

to be honest i can still put my jacket and gloves in my bag with my sub
to be honest imho,way way worth the effort....
great job on the sub btw Jimmie!!looks pretty amazing

[Jimmytee]

to be honest i can still put my jacket and gloves in my bag with my sub
to be honest imho,way way worth the effort....
great job on the sub btw Jimmie!!looks pretty amazing

Thanks. Had it on the road today. Yep, I'm liking it.

[ths61]

So it winter in cali
...
i changed the front speakers to polk audio db 651 s from amazon
...

Did you have to modify anything to get the 6.5" speakers to fit (cut speaker grill, shroud, other)?

Also, how deep are the speaker wells (will they accommodate larger/deeper magnets)?

TIA

[smokinjoe187]

the polks were a nightmare to fit,and have since gone in the thrash,instead i am now running Rockford fosgate r 16-s speakers
dropped in and fit nice,and a big step up in performance

[smokinjoe187]

my single best addition was my trunk and rear speakers and sub...

[Jimmytee]

the polks were a nightmare to fit,and have since gone in the thrash,instead i am now running Rockford fosgate r 16-s speakers
dropped in and fit nice,and a big step up in performance

MInd you that you went with db series speakers.:icon_rolleyes:

[Jimmytee]

Did you have to modify anything to get the 6.5" speakers to fit (cut speaker grill, shroud, other)?

Also, how deep are the speaker wells (will they accommodate larger/deeper magnets)?

TIA

You want the MM series component speakers, but they are best with a different amplifier. Installing an amplifier on the F6B for optimum performance is not real hard, but does require some soldering and ability to read wiring diagrams. The easier ways are less than ideal and will yield less than ideal results. My system absolutely rocks. There is a thread where I detailed what I did. I could do it again much easier, but that is because I have already done the trial and error thing until I found what really worked.:icon_rolleyes:

[smokinjoe187]

MInd you that you went with db series speakers.:icon_rolleyes:

to be honest,they fit sounded better than stock and i dint know what mm speakers are...
i also got a set of jl audio tr 600 cx1 speakers..but the fosgates rock

[smokinjoe187]

You want the MM series component speakers, but they are best with a different amplifier. Installing an amplifier on the F6B for optimum performance is not real hard, but does require some soldering and ability to read wiring diagrams. The easier ways are less than ideal and will yield less than ideal results. My system absolutely rocks. There is a thread where I detailed what I did. I could do it again much easier, but that is because I have already done the trial and error thing until I found what really worked.:icon_rolleyes:

and a great thread it is...
my trunk was a result of that thread..and it rocks

[ths61]

You want the MM series component speakers, but they are best with a different amplifier. Installing an amplifier on the F6B for optimum performance is not real hard, but does require some soldering and ability to read wiring diagrams. The easier ways are less than ideal and will yield less than ideal results. My system absolutely rocks. There is a thread where I detailed what I did. I could do it again much easier, but that is because I have already done the trial and error thing until I found what really worked.:icon_rolleyes:

I just found and read your other thread. Very informative. Thank you for sharing.

I have done a few bike and a few car stereos over the years, also have a Weller soldering station. I have never liked using high-level step-down transformers. Would much rather have access to pre-amp outs as you were able to access.

I have a BikeTronics BT4180 (lifetime guarantee) which is 4 x 180wpc in my current bike that I can use in the F6B. BikeTronics has some 7.1" speaker pods that can be bolted onto a tour pack. Would like to have descent 6.5" front speakers, but it may not be possible with the F6B. Also have some Hertz/BikeTronics 5.25" speakers that can go into the build.

Glad to hear the head unit has 4 channels of preamp outs exposed and front-to-back fader functionality.

[ths61]

to be honest,they fit sounded better than stock and i dint know what mm speakers are...
i also got a set of jl audio tr 600 cx1 speakers..but the fosgates rock

Here you go:

http://www.polkaudio.com/mm651/d/1151

13265

[ths61]

MInd you that you went with db series speakers.:icon_rolleyes:

Has anyone here successfully mounted the PA MM651's?

If so, was the speakers or dash modified?

Were mounting rings used (is there space for mounting rings under the grill cover)?

TIA

[Jimmytee]

Has anyone here successfully mounted the PA MM651's?

If so, was the speakers or dash modified?

Were mounting rings used (is there space for mounting rings under the grill cover)?

TIA

Not sure about the 651s, but the MM6501s yes, Thatonebiker has mounted them. There should not be much difference in mounting the woofer portion though as the 651s are coaxial speakers and the MM6501s are component speakers. Mounting the 651s should be identical to the 6501s just without having to deal with the separate tweeter and crossover.

I installed the MM5251s. I installed these because I wasn't sure the 6.5s could fit. I now know that it has been done and it isn't that difficult. My understanding is that some trimming or shaving down the sides of the speaker frame is necessary . The speakers will have to use a small spacer to clear the speaker from inside the speaker enclosures on each side. My understanding ,from what I was told, is that the 6501s come with a spacer to use. Then there is a divider/partition piece of plastic that is part of the dash / speaker grill . This divider/partition is like a sound guide that comes off the grill/ dash and partially encircles the circumference of the OEM speakers. This has to be trimmed down a little to allow for the added height of the new speakers with the spacers. If I was purchasing again, I'd order the MM6501s. I'm pretty happy with the 5.25" speakers, but I'm running a sub. I chose the Polk Audio MM component series because of their construction (neodymium magnet) , Marine rated duty, reviews, speaker impedance , and frequency response ratings. The neodymium magnet means no big magnet structure to deal with. Neodymium magnets are not cheap though, so speakers with these do tend to cost more for that reason alone.

[CoCoKola]

Yeah those Frogzskins are really cool. I first learned of them when I was shopping for potential speaker options for my Valkyrie. There are speaker kits for Harley bags ( I have Road King Classic bags on my Valkyrie) that listed a screen product called Frogzskin to keep out water. A simple Google revealed that they are designed for snowmobiles and personal watercraft to vent air intakes etc... The product comes in many shapes and sizes. It also can be bought as just the material. The pre shaped ones ,like the circles I bought, are basically peel and stick and can conform to corners etc... Pretty cool.

Yes, this sub hits hard. It's hard to believe all that bass is coming from just a 6.5" driver. I have decided , though, that I am going to line the left bag with some Dynamat sound deadening material. On really heavy bass material and high volume, the bag begins to have a slight rattle. Nothing really bad, but the sound deadening material should eliminate it. Going on a ride today.Will test it out while riding. Suppose to be high of 55.:biggthumpup:
So
a year later...

I picked this project back up.

Question:
I installed frogzskin with 1/2' holes in honeycomb pattern, installed the frogzskin, and damn if that thing didn't buzz like a kazoo with every note. I put as little glue as I could on the inside where there was plastic to hold the frogzskin against the plastic so it didn't rattle. and although that solved the buzz, but the difference between closed/open saddlebag is extreme.

I have a second frogzskin that I was going to mount near the footpeg, but wanted to see if anyone else had this problem with the frogzskin, and what you did to solve it. I expect adding the second one will help allow air in/out, but I don't' want to end up ruining two frogzskins in the process.

thanks!

[Jimmytee]

So
a year later...

I picked this project back up.

Question:
I installed frogzskin with 1/2' holes in honeycomb pattern, installed the frogzskin, and damn if that thing didn't buzz like a kazoo with every note. I put as little glue as I could on the inside where there was plastic to hold the frogzskin against the plastic so it didn't rattle. and although that solved the buzz, but the difference between closed/open saddlebag is extreme.

I have a second frogzskin that I was going to mount near the footpeg, but wanted to see if anyone else had this problem with the frogzskin, and what you did to solve it. I expect adding the second one will help allow air in/out, but I don't' want to end up ruining two frogzskins in the process.

thanks!
I didn't have any issues with the Frogzkins. Over a year and a half and no issues. I have three different vents in my saddlebag. Not sure how many you used. I made sure to properly prep the area that the Frogzkins went on just like you would with any adhesive based product. YOu know cleaning the area with alcohol etc...

[CoCoKola]

I didn't have any issues with the Frogzkins. Over a year and a half and no issues. I have three different vents in my saddlebag. Not sure how many you used. I made sure to properly prep the area that the Frogzkins went on just like you would with any adhesive based product. YOu know cleaning the area with alcohol etc...

I must have some bad juju..

Only installed one, I had more vent space than you did on the one. I will just add more I suppose. It was worse when I had the driver facing the frogzskin. It was vibrating with the air movement; as if the frogskin was not allowing enough air to move and the air pressure moved the skin as well.

thanks J!

[Jimmytee]

I must have some bad juju..

Only installed one, I had more vent space than you did on the one. I will just add more I suppose. It was worse when I had the driver facing the frogzskin. It was vibrating with the air movement; as if the frogskin was not allowing enough air to move and the air pressure moved the skin as well.

thanks J!

I have three vents and the bass is loud with the bags closed. Never had any of the vibrating issues. You need more vents. :icon_wink:
One of mine faces the rear wheel, one of them vents to just behind the left side cover and under the seat and then one is visible. The addition of the one that is visible really aids in hearing the low frequecy information while riding down the road.
42884289

[CoCoKola]

I have three vents and the bass is loud with the bags closed. Never had any of the vibrating issues. You need more vents. :icon_wink:
One of mine faces the rear wheel, one of them vents to just behind the left side cover and under the seat and then one is visible. The addition of the one that is visible really aids in hearing the low frequecy information while riding down the road.
2258722588

Cool, so did you completely cut out the inner diameter? From the pic, it looks like you have installed it from the outside, or is that ring something else? Finally, i see the one firing towards the front , but not understanding where the one i think you are calling visable?

Thanks team!

[Jimmytee]

Cool, so did you completely cut out the inner diameter? From the pic, it looks like you have installed it from the outside, or is that ring something else? Finally, i see the one firing towards the front , but not understanding where the one i think you are calling visable?

Thanks team!

That is a Vent tube sourced from Parts Express
I believe it was this one or very close.
http://www.parts-express.com/speaker-cabinet-port-tube-2-3-4-id-x-1-l--260-323

I trimmed down the depth, cut the hole of that area in the side cover with a hole saw. Then glued the port in place. The port is only in the portion attached as part of the side cover. The actual "vent" is behind there made with several small holes drilled in a honeycomb pattern within the confines of a circle. The vent is in the actual saddlebag behind the port that is glued into the side cover.

[Jimmytee]

You can feel the air moving with quite a bit of force if you put your hand down in front of that vent. And that's with three vents. :icon_wink: That vent helps to put bass into the air envelope behind the fairing while moving.

[CoCoKola]

After doing more research, it seems to get the best experience, mounting the sub directly to the saddlebag is the way to go. I am talking to a shop who can fabricate a plate. This uses the entire bag as a sealed enclosure to improve the response.

I have the JL sub strapped to my passenger seat with the sub, and although it sounds good, it is far from the results I would like to achieve. I'm going to try a separate sub amp first to see if an AB class amp driven 1.25x to 1.5x the RMS power for the w3v3 6/5" wakes up the sub. If it does, then mount it with the amp and be happy. If not, a 8" w3v3 or look at the w7v3 sub - although I need to find a class g/H amp @ 500 RMS+ to drive it. My tops sound pretty good, but again not quite the clarity I need. It's nice to turn up to 13 on the bike and hear the music rocking.

[Jimmytee]

After doing more research, it seems to get the best experience, mounting the sub directly to the saddlebag is the way to go. I am talking to a shop who can fabricate a plate. This uses the entire bag as a sealed enclosure to improve the response.

I have the JL sub strapped to my passenger seat with the sub, and although it sounds good, it is far from the results I would like to achieve. I'm going to try a separate sub amp first to see if an AB class amp driven 1.25x to 1.5x the RMS power for the w3v3 6/5" wakes up the sub. If it does, then mount it with the amp and be happy. If not, a 8" w3v3 or look at the w7v3 sub - although I need to find a class g/H amp @ 500 RMS+ to drive it. My tops sound pretty good, but again not quite the clarity I need. It's nice to turn up to 13 on the bike and hear the music rocking.

I asssume you are talking about mounting the sub facing the rear wheel then? My original plans involved installing 2 subs , one in each bag, facing the rear wheel. I started planning it out and came across the JL AUdio sub and thought I'd try that first. The thing about facing the sub though to the rear wheel is that I'm sure you will get great bass while parked. I was just concerned , after all the work it would have been, how much of the bass would be audible while riding down the road. All I can say is, I've been very pleased with how my set up works. Definitely look forward to your outcome.

[CoCoKola]

I asssume you are talking about mounting the sub facing the rear wheel then? ... Definitely look forward to your outcome.

Yes Jimmytee, thank you for blazing the trail! I added the additional ports and it does sound amazing compared to where we started.

I wired the sub inputs to the rear channels to enable the use of front-rear fader. I can hear the sub riding and stopped, but the gain structure to get there requires about 5 clicks fade to rear with the input gain for the sub mono channel set nearly at maximum. My personal preference for subs is a sealed enclosure, and using a" ported port" surely is limiting the maximum output. Is it limiting it by 1% or 30%,I don't know.


Cheers all!
Robert

[Jimmytee]

Yes Jimmytee, thank you for blazing the trail! I added the additional ports and it does sound amazing compared to where we started.

I wired the sub inputs to the rear channels to enable the use of front-rear fader. I can hear the sub riding and stopped, but the gain structure to get there requires about 5 clicks fade to rear with the input gain for the sub mono channel set nearly at maximum. My personal preference for subs is a sealed enclosure, and using a" ported port" surely is limiting the maximum output. Is it limiting it by 1% or 30%,I don't know.


Cheers all!
Robert

I was not at all happy using the speaker level outputs. I had much better results all around. I mean much better is an inderstatement, intercepting the pre out signals from the "Audio Unit". However, I no longer have the "Audio Unit" on my bike as all of my audio system is aftermarket now. Will you have yours done for the Rally? I hope.:icon_wink:

[CoCoKola]

I was not at all happy using the speaker level outputs. I had much better results all around. I mean much better is an inderstatement, intercepting the pre out signals from the "Audio Unit". However, I no longer have the "Audio Unit" on my bike as all of my audio system is aftermarket now. Will you have yours done for the Rally? I hope.:icon_wink:

I also removed the stock amplifier. During installation, I used twisted pair rca cables, and I was surprised by the amount of cross talk and how front levels were affected when rear inputs were added- which made me wonder if shielded rca should be used. I verified with manufacturer and measured the resistance from the head unit and ground, determined twisted was correct.

I was tempted to use the two brown power lines of the relay that showed 40amp fuse for something, but ended up capping it off.also the supplied velcro for mounting the amp didn't hold up to the heat, but that's fine as it will be resold.

I am targeting having it completed for the week prior to the rally for Ozark bike week. Ten days of riding and I'll want to hear tunes pumping! Looking forward to meeting you and the rest of the team!

[Jimmytee]

I also removed the stock amplifier. During installation, I used twisted pair rca cables, and I was surprised by the amount of cross talk and how front levels were affected when rear inputs were added- which made me wonder if shielded rca should be used. I verified with manufacturer and measured the resistance from the head unit and ground, determined twisted was correct.

I was tempted to use the two brown power lines of the relay that showed 40amp fuse for something, but ended up capping it off.also the supplied velcro for mounting the amp didn't hold up to the heat, but that's fine as it will be resold.

I am targeting having it completed for the week prior to the rally for Ozark bike week. Ten days of riding and I'll want to hear tunes pumping! Looking forward to meeting you and the rest of the team!

I used that 40 amp circuit initially as the trigger source for turning on my aftermarket amps. Since installing the the Clarion source unit though, the trigger now comes from that. My 2 amplifiers are fed from a 4 awg wire directly from the battery that goes to a small distrubution block where 2 very short 10 awg wires feed each of the amps.

[CoCoKola]

[QUOTE=Jimmytee;131133 My 2 amplifiers are fed from a 4 awg wire directly from the battery that goes to a small distrubution block where 2 very short 10 awg wires feed each of the amps.[/QUOTE]

Two amps? I thought you had the mvp4 driving fronts and sub? Cool

[Jimmytee]

Two amps? I thought you had the mvp4 driving fronts and sub? Cool

That was what I originally had. However, I added rear speakers and needed an additional 2 channels of amplification. If I had known that was my original intent, I would have most likely installed a 5 channel amplifier, but buying the additional 4 channel , which I am only using 2 of 4 channels currently, was cheaper than replacing the MVP4 with an amp capable of doing what I wanted.