My adventures in F6B Audio Upgrade [Archive] - Honda F6B Forums - The website for F6B & Gold Wing 2018+ Riders

Jimmytee

01-18-2015, 10:34 AM

Jimmytee

01-18-2015, 10:43 AM

These speakers have sizable crossovers with them that required deciding where to put them. The stock speakers have small capacitor on the tweeter as a way to roll off the low frequencies and the woofer is just run full range. I chose to tuck the crossovers behind the windscreen in the fairing.
10647

10648

The next decision was to how to mount the tweeters. I've been corresponding with another guy who is doing a similar upgrade. That's how I know that the 6.5" speakers can be made to fit. cooldude He has mounted the tweeters where the stock tweeters are located. He uncased the tweeters as they come, and they fit. This had not even occurred to me when I mounted mine as the tweeters are too large to fit as they come. The tweeters come with two options for mounting. Flush mounting and surface mounting. To flush mount them using the items as they come from Polk Audio, would have required some irreversible modifications to the dash/grill area. I wasn't too keen on that, so I chose to surface mount the tweeters. I had to drill two small holes in each speaker grill screen. This was to accommodate the speaker wire and the mounting screw/bolt. They come out fine IMHO, but I may choose to mount them the way this other guy did. I'm planning on ordering some custom painted screens with the CVMA logo painted on them, and may choose to change the mounting at that time.
The advantage to the surface mounting is that the tweeters can be pivoted for aiming. Not a big deal, but it is a consideration that once they are mounted in the stock location, they are fixed.

10649

This brings us to the amplifier and it's hook up. This was the most challenging part of the install. I did not think or plan on the difficulties experienced, but my learning process may help others.

I chose a fairly new / unknown amplifier company named NVX. Their products seem to be mainly available through Sonic Electronix online. This is the amp I chose. I got it for Christmas. Remember theme?:icon_cool:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html

It has great reviews and has been bench tested to outperform the manufacturer's specifications. It is also very small/compact. The amplifier was not what made the install difficult. The difficulty came in getting an audio signal for the amplifier to amplify. :icon_rolleyes: On the onset , it seemed it should be a pretty straight forward deal. The amplifier has both RCA inputs and speaker level inputs for when RCAs are not present. Sooooo, I initially hooked up the amplifier using the speaker wires from the factory system. I ran them to the speaker level inputs and then ran speaker wire from the amp to the crossovers of each speaker channel. Voila right? NO. It sounded like crap. However, I could hook my phone directly into the amp and it's RCA inputs and it sounded great. So the sound through the factory system was awful. I would put it all back to stock before living with that. It sounded like the input of the new amp was being over driven. So I bought some Low to High impedance adapter ( Speaker level to RCA adapter). The one I chose is supposed to be rated to 50 watts. Same situation. Now I'm beginning to wonder or suspect that the OEM electronics just suck that much. I had too options or thoughts. One, I could purchase another adapter rated to an even higher wattage input. Or two , I could tap into the OEM wiring harness and hijack the pre out signals before they go to the factory amp. Let me digress for a moment.

There was a third option. That involved using the headset signal as a pre-amp signal to the amplifier. There is an adapter that will adapt the 5 pin din plug to an 1/8" stereo plug. The one could use another adapter to then adapt the 1/8" stereo plug to a couple of RCAs. I tried this out. Not with buying any adapters, but I tapped into the harness for the headset and soldered op a couple of RCAs. It worked great, and if someone didn't want to do the soldering, they could use the mentioned adapters. I didn't have the patience to wait for ordering the 5 pin din adapter. There are a couple of caveats to going this route that might be obvious. One, the headset button has to be engaged for the stereo to then work. Two, if someone wants to have their headset fuction normally without the speakers playing too, this won't work. Plus, I use the fading feature of the stereo with my final set up. There is no fading with the headset option. Here is the harness after I tapped into it.
2538

What I did end up doing.

I chose to tap into the pre out signals. Now, at the time of doing this, I did not have the Honda Shop manual yet. I now have that. Got it from my dealer for $69. Pretty good deal considering the best I've seen the net was $10 more. The mechanic let me take some pictures of his manual and the wiring diagrams needed. He had to unwrap his manual as it was brand new. They are a very new dealer that opened up about 2 years ago I think . It's where I bought my F6B and they're just 2 miles or so down the road. cooldude I tried to get him to just give me his in exchange for the one I ordered, but he said he'd be in trouble if for some reason Honda were to find him without one on hand.. :icon_rolleyes:
I removed the tail end body work and removed the OEM amplifier. The amplifier resides in an enclosure by itself behind the rear wheel. I didn't have to remove the amplifier to tap into the signals, but my intention was to put the new amplifier in it's place. The audio signals that feed the amplifier come from the "Audio Unit" located under the passenger seat in a black enclosure. This would be equivalent to what would be called the head unit in car audio terms. The controls on the fairing left side are just that. Controls. I pulled out the amplifier and made the decision to cut the wiring harness in half. The amplifier has three bundles coming from the amp to a plug that plugs into the factory wiring harness. I cut the three bundles mid way and now I had the factory plug with the wires needed. If I ,for some reason, wanted to return the bike to stock, I will have to splice and solder all those wires back together. In those wires are the speaker wires for four speakers ( the bike is wired for all four speakers even though it only has the front speakers) , the wires for the pre out signals for all 4 channels and positive power and ground. I made up a harness, thinking I'd try to use all the factory wiring. This proved unsatisfactory and I ended up only using the pre out signals. Both the factory power leads and the factory speaker wiring degrade the sound substantially. Here is a pic of the harness i first made up.
10651

Ultimately, the idea of putting the amp back where the OEM resided , was not going to work. Had I not just lost my patience, I may have been able to figure out a way to make it work, but I was back and forth whether that was where I really wanted it. The enclosure there has a drain for a reason, and I just was not sure how the new amp would survive. Did I mention it's behind the rear wheel underneath the rear fender? :icon_mrgreen: The issue was that the wiring harness I built was too long and required too much space and that the new amp had to sit vertically where the RCA jacks protruded above the plane of the enclosure leaving a hump that there was no room for. I could have got some right angle adapters for the RCAs and maybe resolved the issue by modifying my harness, but foooey. :banghead:

Here is a pic of the amp in the enclosure.
10652
Have to split this up again.

Jimmytee

01-18-2015, 10:48 AM

So all in all cutting to the chase. Sorry, for being long and drawn out but these experiences may help someone else. I have gone through the learning curve. There really is not much out there on audio upgrades to GLs except some J&M speakers.

I chose to put the amp in the left saddlebag. The amp is small in size and does not take up any usable space. I think I am going to make a cover for it to hide the wires, but this is what I have right now. Please excuse the mess underneath as this photo was taken before I had cleaned up.

10653

The location in the saddle bag allows me to tinker if I choose. Another guy has mounted the same amplifier in the fairing. So that is another option. This is how I did it. The amplifier comes with two ways to mount it. I chose to mount is with the supplied Velcro. It works and you have to really pry on the amp to remove it. I ran 10 awg stranded wire for the positive and negative wiring directly from the battery with a 30 amp inline fuse. As mentioned earlier, I ran speaker wires in protected split loom
up to the front. The sound is much improved over the factory system. Everything works as intended.

Now for the closing act:

From the beginning, I panned to add a subwoofer or two to the saddlebags. I had different ideas of what and or how I wanted to do this. One plan was to add two 8" drivers inside each bag, with the drivers firing towards the rear wheel. This , I'm sure, would be very effective. It would've required some fiberglass work, which I don't have any real experience with, but was willing to try. Sat and watched many a tutorial on the subject. Another option was to decrease the size of the driver to use a 6.5" subwoofer. There are some really surprising speakers in this size range. In this size, I could have simply cut out a reinforcing baffle to secure in the proposed mounting locations. The idea is the same as with the 8" subs , but the 6.5 " size would allow them to be mounted without the fiberglass work.

Then I thought of this.
http://www.jlaudio.com/cp106lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93300

The idea of putting speaker in the inward side of the bags and essentially using the saddlebags as an enclosure would work, but ultimately would probably have required an additional amplifier . Using an enclosure designed for the specific characteristics of a particular driver, generally yields a more efficient use of power.
So I ordered the micro sub. The thing is really small. It does take up a substantial amount of space in the left saddlebag because of the mentioned enclosure. There's maybe room left for a set of rain gear and set of gloves etc.... However, the sub is removed in about the same time it takes you to open up the saddlebag. With Banana plug speaker connections, you really simply just unplug the two speaker leads (pos and neg) and pull the box out. If I need the space for luggage, I can just leave it at home.

1065410655

As of right now, I put a strip of Velcro that sticks to the carpet of the sub. This keeps the sub in place when cornering and such. A road trip yesterday confirmed this works. I may change that.

The other part to the sub install was that those saddle bags are sealed for the most part. There has to be a way ,obviously to vent the bags for the bass to get out. cooldude After all, It's all about that bass, 'bout that bass right? 2funny
I chose to drill in two places. I drilled many small holes in basically a circle pattern. I put one area facing the rear wheel and the other area is towards the front of the bags near where the battery sits.
I used a product called Frogzskins to cover the holes. These come in many shapes and sizes and are designed for air intakes on snowmobiles and personal watercraft. The product is also used for speaker covers on some after market speaker options for Harley Saddle bags. That's how I first learned of the product when I was researching options for my Valkyrie.

25392540

Continued again.

Jimmytee

01-18-2015, 10:49 AM

106582541

The end result is :icon_mrgreen::biggthumpup::biggthumpup::biggthump up::biggthumpup:
Very happy and that little sub really kicks out some tremendous amount of bass. Hard to believe it's only a 6.5 " sub driver.
I powered it with the rear channels of the new amp bridged for over 175 watts RMS to the sub.
Very happy. I hope if anyone is interested in accomplishing similar results, that this experience will be helpful.

Limoles

01-19-2015, 12:57 AM

Jimmytee

01-19-2015, 06:13 AM

All of it above requires time , dedication , determination , some knowledge and additional investment . It's fine , if brings satisfaction , or even pride to it . Apparently that's the result of personal choice , but due to complicated process might not see to many , who wants to copy such a idea ( or maybe so ? ).

For close interaction with sound , long time ago I decided to empower my helmets with much easier to install headphones , which gives me few other options , like switching radio to the phone , or initiate connection to passenger behind me . It allowes me to feel "private", without annoying bystanders , adjust the volume to ever changing surroundings or traffic disturbance .

At present and to each of my helmets , I installed quality brand Sena SMH5 system , simple device able to connect me with : radio , mobil phone , GPS Navigation , MP3 player , iPod , USB Flash Drive and intercom . It doesn't take any space in my saddlebags , no needs to bastardize integrity of motorcycle and first of all - it provides not deformed on the way , crispy and premium sound .

In final courtesy to many , I can avoid rude comments of those who do not speak other ( than English ) languages , those who do not understand sophisticated lyrics in the music , or even hate up-heard tunes. That's my understanding of "respect", which we always expect from others.

Uh, OK
To each their own:cheers:
Everyone has their opinion.
I have helmet speakers/ intercom bluetooth . My wife and I both have G9 headsets. Headset/helmet speakers do not not sound near as good.:icon_biggrin: :icon_mrgreen: Maybe a good set of ear buds. I mean a good set will sound pretty nice, but I hate having that wire hooking me up. But even a good set of ear buds will not give the aural sensations that accompany the sound waves from kick drums and snare hits on a good system.
The space in the bags. Well, that might be a real concern for some. It's in only one bag. Unless I am traveling somewhere for a couple days or more, I've got plenty of storage. That's why I went with the micro sub that is removed as quickly as it takes me to open the saddlebag.
As far as bystanders, I have a volume control. And these bikes do have an auto volume control.
As far as bastardizing? That was your word right? I sure hope you have not added or changed anything on your bike.
Was it necessary to do any of the above? No It could be argued very well that these bikes are not necessary. Everything on this forum is superfluous.
With all respect, everyone has their own opinion, but yours comes across a little condescending. The post was shared because I have answered many PMs and have also been in correspondence through e-mails regarding interests. This post endeavored to chronicle some of the paths I went through in accomplishing the goal. Is it for everyone? I'm sure it is not.

jkelley

01-19-2015, 07:11 AM

Hey Jimmy,

Thanks for the post! I am sure others with similar interests will find the information useful.
Regardless of what others may think keep it up.

Jim

Jimmytee

01-19-2015, 08:58 AM

Hey Jimmy,

Thanks for the post! I am sure others with similar interests will find the information useful.
Regardless of what others may think keep it up.

Jim

Thanks. That was my intention. If someone wants to look at similar upgrades, maybe this info can help in that pursuit. I really don't need anyone to list why they wouldn't do it. Constructive criticism or ideas sure.

Hornblower

01-19-2015, 09:37 AM

Jimmytee--I wanted to add my thanks and appreciation for the info you've provided so far. I find it very interesting. At any rate, it's obvious how much time you've spent exploring this and attempting to share it so again, thanks :clap2:!

Jimmytee

01-19-2015, 09:49 AM

Thanks. Yeah it takes a bit to post all that.:yes:

Having done it now. It would take me a morning or a afternoon to repeat it. It really is not that bad, once all the discovery and decision processes have been accomplished.

Deer Slayer

01-19-2015, 09:53 AM

Jimmytee, thanks for the info. Just laying out your project here is a wad od work. :cheers:

Jimmytee

01-19-2015, 11:16 AM

Jimmytee, thanks for the info. Just laying out your project here is a wad od work. :cheers:

Thanks

DJ TONY G

01-19-2015, 04:49 PM

Uh, OK
To each their own:cheers:
Everyone has their opinion.
I have helmet speakers/ intercom bluetooth . My wife and I both have G9 headsets. Headset/helmet speakers do not not sound near as good.:icon_biggrin: :icon_mrgreen: Maybe a good set of ear buds. I mean a good set will sound pretty nice, but I hate having that wire hooking me up. But even a good set of ear buds will not give the aural sensations that accompany the sound waves from kick drums and snare hits on a good system.
The space in the bags. Well, that might be a real concern for some. It's in only one bag. Unless I am traveling somewhere for a couple days or more, I've got plenty of storage. That's why I went with the micro sub that is removed as quickly as it takes me to open the saddlebag.
As far as bystanders, I have a volume control. And these bikes do have an auto volume control.
As far as bastardizing? That was your word right? I sure hope you have not added or changed anything on your bike.
Was it necessary to do any of the above? No It could be argued very well that these bikes are not necessary. Everything on this forum is superfluous.
With all respect, everyone has their own opinion, but yours comes across a little condescending. The post was shared because I have answered many PMs and have also been in correspondence through e-mails regarding interests. This post endeavored to chronicle some of the paths I went through in accomplishing the goal. Is it for everyone? I'm sure it is not.

I have somewhat of the same setup.

Kicker - Hideaway 8" in the saddle bag,
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-hideaway-8-subwoofer-with-enclosure-and-integrated-150w-amplifier-black/3526208.p?id=1218410279361&skuId=3526208
I drilled a piece of wood to the inside if the bag and velcro the sub to the wood. I used the kit that came with the sub.

Kicker - CS44 4" on top of the bags with a Rockford Fosgate Power T400x2,
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cs44-4-coaxial-car-speakers-with-polypropylene-cones-pair-black/9065274.p?id=1218978286932&skuId=9065274

I also used the Frogzskins Square, 6" x 6". I opened the back part of the bags. under the tail lights.

Stock front speakers.

**Pictures coming soon.

choptop

01-19-2015, 04:51 PM

Thanks, hope to upgrade in the future and now I won't start in the dark.

DJ TONY G

01-19-2015, 05:07 PM

Thanks, hope to upgrade in the future and now I won't start in the dark.

Here's a new sub that might also be a good sub to have,

http://www.me-mag.com/product/item/43462-rockford-fosgate-announces-new-punch-subwoofer-enclosure-at-2015-product-showcase

Jimmytee

01-19-2015, 08:05 PM

Here's a new sub that might also be a good sub to have,

http://www.me-mag.com/product/item/43462-rockford-fosgate-announces-new-punch-subwoofer-enclosure-at-2015-product-showcase
That looks interesting. Most of the compact subs like that I've heard did not impress me though. And then you read reviews where they have a high failure rate on top of that. But that one is new and may be different a different animal. If I were to be doing this from scratch , I'd definitely want to check it out. I'm pretty ecstatic over the JL Audio sub though.:biggthumpup:

Jimmytee

01-19-2015, 08:08 PM

I have somewhat of the same setup.

Kicker - Hideaway 8" in the saddle bag,
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-hideaway-8-subwoofer-with-enclosure-and-integrated-150w-amplifier-black/3526208.p?id=1218410279361&skuId=3526208
I drilled a piece of wood to the inside if the bag and velcro the sub to the wood. I used the kit that came with the sub.

Kicker - CS44 4" on top of the bags with a Rockford Fosgate Power T400x2,
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cs44-4-coaxial-car-speakers-with-polypropylene-cones-pair-black/9065274.p?id=1218978286932&skuId=9065274

I also used the Frogzskins Square, 6" x 6". I opened the back part of the bags. under the tail lights.

Stock front speakers.

**Pictures coming soon.
So you gonna show us some pics?:postpics: Would like to see what you did.

Kurare79

01-20-2015, 01:32 AM

Great Work, Jimmy! http://www.smilies.4-user.de/include/Optimismus/smilie_op_010.gif http://www.smilies.4-user.de/include/Optimismus/smilie_op_012.gif Always impressive for me to see what is possible, if you've got the skills!

smokinjoe187

01-20-2015, 03:45 AM

Jimmytee

01-20-2015, 03:57 AM

good to say i have enjoyed this ride brother....btw my BUMP trunk is alive!!

So you built your enclosure for the sub? Pics??

smokinjoe187

01-20-2015, 04:00 AM

So you built your enclosure for the sub? Pics??

i sent it to your gmail
amp and parts on order,i decided to use a charge cord for the sub pigtail amp to the bag
pictures to follow as i fine tune the trunk

Jimmytee

01-20-2015, 04:57 AM

smokinjoe187

01-20-2015, 01:38 PM

What kind of sub is that? It looks like a Lanzer. I thought you had bought a J.L. Audio sub.
This driver here is a bargain and has gained a great reputation if anyone is interested. http://https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w6-1139sif-6-1-2-paper-cone-subwoofer-speaker--264-919
Are you going to build an enclosure for it or just mount it in the trunk? You may want to cut out a baffle that fits into the bottom of that trunk to secure the woofer to. I don't know how stiff the bottom of that trunk is, but you definitely want the bottom where the speaker will be mounted to be stiff. Flex will rob your driver of output.
its actually mounted on a piece of delrin right now as im trying to mock it up and yes lanzar i'm using it for mock up
didn't want to screw up a 130 dollar speaker!
should have the rest of the parts this week to work on the amp,great right up btw,i found a fuse box on wing stuffs site so im gonna use that for all my new mods!!wish me luck!

Jimmytee

01-20-2015, 05:46 PM

its actually mounted on a piece of delrin right now as im trying to mock it up and yes lanzar i'm using it for mock up
didn't want to screw up a 130 dollar speaker!
should have the rest of the parts this week to work on the amp,great right up btw,i found a fuse box on wing stuffs site so im gonna use that for all my new mods!!wish me luck!

Keep us informed. Right now, I have three electrical items that I have added outside of the free stuff I got from Honda when I bought my bike. Really it's just two items. I have a harness for my heated clothing , the new amplifier and I have a jack for a trickle charger or easy way to jump if I ever need to. All three have inline fuses and are attached directly to the battery. On my Valkyrie , I had added a power distribution box. I may go that direction with the F6B in the near future.

Tedubya

01-22-2015, 09:21 AM

This is the motivation I was looking for.

Thanks

Jimmytee

01-22-2015, 06:34 PM

This is the motivation I was looking for.

Thanks

Here is a short clip. The video was recorded using my phone so it really does not do it justice.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGeXQvVNXVk

Jimmytee

01-22-2015, 07:00 PM

Here are some bits that have some real heavy bass. However it does not come across. Believe me, the volume is extremely loud and the bass you can feel. But what should I expect from a phone right?:icon_rolleyes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jswIqCiGuMg

thatonebiker

01-24-2015, 08:26 PM

some of the radio upgrade the install it done but still needs to be wired up

Jimmytee

02-04-2015, 07:07 PM

thatonebiker: Any updates?

Whoever thought you couldn't ride down the road on a motorcycle and have great bass from your music, needs to take note. I'm so very pleased with the outcome of my efforts. This thing rocks and thumps. Even at 70 mph.:biggthumpup:

thatonebiker

02-05-2015, 01:32 PM

I haven't gotten much farther than that latley. Just got a bit lazy on it I still have a few months before I can ride and I was working on customizing my seat some and making ridged dually d2 fit in the stock location in the front cowling

Jimmytee

02-05-2015, 05:53 PM

thatonebiker

02-05-2015, 07:21 PM

http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/50231

Jimmytee

02-05-2015, 07:36 PM

http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/50231

Those would probably look pretty good if you could get them in there. Had much luck? I have the OEM lights in mine. I bought them with part of the incentive money from Honda. Otherwise, I might have looked elsewhere.

thatonebiker

02-05-2015, 09:25 PM

I have them mounted for the most part might have to trim the cowling just a little on the one side and wire them up I got a oem fog light switch

jlyon

03-11-2015, 08:09 PM

JimmyTee,

I have been reading and devouring your threads on your audio work. First off, thank you for taking the time to work through the issues presented by the tupperware and location of things on our F6Bs... Not only woirk through them, but also take the time to explain them and take pix and post it all.... I am one very appreciative forum member who applauds your help to us all !!!

Looking at the location that thatonebiker put his amp (the right hand cubby), do you think the NVX amp would fit in there as well ?? I really pack my side bags tight when I travel, and am loathe to give up any space if I don't have to !!

Also, you siad you used 5.25 speakers in your front, but that others had found 6.25s that could be trimmed and made to fit the front... I have a set of Focal 6.25s available to me and was curious to get your take on them as front speakers...

On my old H-D, I had mounted in the tour pack a 6.5" sub with extra amp, and then ported the container for some awesome sound... I am still on the fence about what to do for bass sound on the F6B... Like I said, I hate to give up storage room... I may just settle for a better set of up-fronts with a better amp...

Anyway... any info you can continue to share is always welcome.... Thanks for all your efforts to date...

Ride safe

Joe

Jimmytee

03-11-2015, 09:24 PM

Thanks for the affirmation.:cheers:
I don't think that there would be a problem putting the amp in there. You would have to fab up a way to mount the amp. My decision to put the amp in the saddlebag had a lot to do with location and proximity to the power source and the fact that I was going to put a sub in the same saddlebag too. I had thought about putting the amp in the fairing, but as it is, I put it in the saddlebag.It really doesn't take up any usable space, but if you're not going to do a sub, then that is one less reason to put it in the saddlebag. Really, I could have flipped a coin on the final location. I was back and forth and just made the decision to put it where I did so I could progress. I didn't see any negatives to putting it in the saddlebag.

277127722773

ths61

04-19-2015, 12:03 AM

...

What I did end up doing.

I chose to tap into the pre out signals. Now, at the time of doing this, I did not have the Honda Shop manual yet. I now have that. Got it from my dealer for $69. Pretty good deal considering the best I've seen the net was $10 more. The mechanic let me take some pictures of his manual and the wiring diagrams needed. He had to unwrap his manual as it was brand new. They are a very new dealer that opened up about 2 years ago I think . It's where I bought my F6B and they're just 2 miles or so down the road. cooldude I tried to get him to just give me his in exchange for the one I ordered, but he said he'd be in trouble if for some reason Honda were to find him without one on hand.. :icon_rolleyes:
I removed the tail end body work and removed the OEM amplifier. The amplifier resides in an enclosure by itself behind the rear wheel. I didn't have to remove the amplifier to tap into the signals, but my intention was to put the new amplifier in it's place. The audio signals that feed the amplifier come from the "Audio Unit" located under the passenger seat in a black enclosure. This would be equivalent to what would be called the head unit in car audio terms. The controls on the fairing left side are just that. Controls. I pulled out the amplifier and made the decision to cut the wiring harness in half. The amplifier has three bundles coming from the amp to a plug that plugs into the factory wiring harness. I cut the three bundles mid way and now I had the factory plug with the wires needed. If I ,for some reason, wanted to return the bike to stock, I will have to splice and solder all those wires back together. In those wires are the speaker wires for four speakers ( the bike is wired for all four speakers even though it only has the front speakers) , the wires for the pre out signals for all 4 channels and positive power and ground. I made up a harness, thinking I'd try to use all the factory wiring. This proved unsatisfactory and I ended up only using the pre out signals. Both the factory power leads and the factory speaker wiring degrade the sound substantially. Here is a pic of the harness i first made up.
10651

...

Jimmytee, thanks for posting your findings and install. Will be helpful to a lot of people.

srt8-in-largo

04-19-2015, 01:25 AM

I'm gonna have to buckle down and read this thread one of these days... subscribed.

Jimmytee

04-19-2015, 05:32 AM

Jimmytee, thanks for posting your findings and install. Will be helpful to a lot of people.

You're welcome. It was a little frustrating that I had to go through the steps I did to accomplish the final outcome. That is why I tried to chronicle it. For me to do it again, would be sooo much easier as I would not waste anytime with doing it any other way.:icon_wink: The only change I probably would make would be to have gone ahead with the MM6501s instead. However, with the sub, I doubt you would be able to perceive any differences really. Without the sub, I'm sure the 6.5s would have some low end advantage.

Jimmytee

04-19-2015, 05:35 AM

I'm gonna have to buckle down and read this thread one of these days... subscribed.

There are more than one ways to "skin a cat" I've been told, but as far as the mechanics of adding an amp to the F6B, I'm not convinced.:icon_razz:

thatonebiker

04-21-2015, 03:39 PM

Jimmytee

04-21-2015, 06:28 PM

I have it all done and have over a 1000 miles on them now to give them some time to break in and the mm 6501 sound way better than stock and actually has some bass you can feel it in the bars. and the ridged fog driving lights I installed are bright almost to bright I get flashed on the highway from oncoming traffic but they sure light up the ditch

Thanks for the update. So you'd say you're pretty satisfied with the results?

I know I have been. I just stayed with the 5.25" MM series as they really do rock and with the sub filling in the bottom end things are great.:icon_biggrin:

srt8-in-largo

04-21-2015, 09:08 PM

99% of the time I listen with earbuds on under my helmet... but if I ever change that I know where to go for upgrade info. Thanks for all the work and the mindshare Jimmy!

Jimmytee

04-22-2015, 05:00 AM

99% of the time I listen with earbuds on under my helmet... but if I ever change that I know where to go for upgrade info. Thanks for all the work and the mindshare Jimmy!

I've used earbuds in the past. They're ok if riding by yourself. If you are riding with anyone, then when you stop or need to communicate,it's awkward. I ride quite a bit with either someone else and or in a group. I have a Scala G9 headset in my helmet, but use it primarily for communication. Not really impressed with it for music listening. Got much better sound through my on bike system.

LacoocheeBoy

05-29-2015, 02:49 PM

I put in Alpine series e 5.25 speakers and rode with them for a few weeks. They sounded like crap even though there was more volume. Yesterday I added a kenwood KAC-M1824BT amp. The BT stands for Bluetooth so my phone can be in my pocket. The controller was installed in the blank space below the right handlebar. The amp is under the rear left of my mustang seat. It is very loud and clear! Total cost including install $600.00 I also like the fact that I can control the volume either from phone or controller. 14262

LacoocheeBoy

05-29-2015, 02:55 PM

Sorry my pic was upside down

Jimmytee

05-29-2015, 03:20 PM

LacoocheeBoy

05-29-2015, 11:04 PM

When you are using the Bluetooth from your phone that's right. But when you switch it back to AM/FM that uses the factory controls.

Jimmytee

05-30-2015, 06:24 AM

When you are using the Bluetooth from your phone that's right. But when you switch it back to AM/FM that uses the factory controls.

I guess I'm missing something.:shrug:

How are you inputting a signal to the amp?

LacoocheeBoy

05-30-2015, 09:29 PM

The amp is Bluetooth it self. So my phone goes directly to the amp

Jimmytee

05-30-2015, 09:49 PM

The amp is Bluetooth it self. So my phone goes directly to the amp

No, I understand that. I'm asking how you're able to control the factory system as you say the factory controls work with the AM FM radio? If you have installed a new amp, and I'm assuming you then have the new amp powering the speakers instead of the OEM amp, and then you change volumes with your phone, where does the factory controls come into play? How do you have the factory system tied into it? :shrug: Are you using the speaker outputs of the OEM system to plug into the speaker level inputs? And if so, it seems to sound alright?

LacoocheeBoy

05-31-2015, 08:34 PM

The largest button on the control in the picture is the input switch. The radio is also hooked directly into the amp so when you change the inputs you go back to the radio controls

rjmyers4201

07-18-2015, 08:58 PM

http://www.jlaudio.com/mhx280-4-marine-audio-mhx-amplifiers-98403

CoCoKola

08-29-2015, 05:00 PM

some of the radio upgrade the install it done but still needs to be wired up
where is this amp mounted? maybe i missed the post?

and how did you mount the 5 1/4? I am at that step now. I ordered the 6.5, carved up the tweeters, mounted the x-overs, and realized the subs were a huge no-go. ordered the 5 1/4 and am trying to figure the best way to mount bass to the dash.

Jimmytee

08-29-2015, 08:24 PM

where is this amp mounted? maybe i missed the post?

and how did you mount the 5 1/4? I am at that step now. I ordered the 6.5, carved up the tweeters, mounted the x-overs, and realized the subs were a huge no-go. ordered the 5 1/4 and am trying to figure the best way to mount bass to the dash.

I originally mounted the 5.25" I bought a small square sheet of ABS. I trimmed out the outline of the stock speakers and then cut out the needed area inside that for the 5.25" I got the ABS from a local car audio place for $10. You can order various sizes and thicknesses of ABS from various sources on the web. Just google it. That's what I did anyways. :shrug:

It worked well. Since then , I have up sized to the 6.5" One of the 5.25" woofers had developed a slight rattle. I ran then very hard. The place I bought them will warranty them, but I didn't want to wait, so I ordered the 6.5".

If you go the ABS route, I'd recommend getting a thickness of about or a 1/4" thick. The 5.25" will bottom out as well without a little spacing.

Willl

08-29-2015, 08:56 PM

I originally mounted the 5.25" I bought a small square sheet of ABS. I trimmed out the outline of the stock speakers and then cut out the needed area inside that for the 5.25" I got the ABS from a local car audio place for $10. You can order various sizes and thicknesses of ABS from various sources on the web. Just google it. That's what I did anyways. :shrug:

It worked well. Since then , I have up sized to the 6.5" One of the 5.25" woofers had developed a slight rattle. I ran then very hard. The place I bought them will warranty them, but I didn't want to wait, so I ordered the 6.5".

If you go the ABS route, I'd recommend getting a thickness of about or a 1/4" thick. The 5.25" will bottom out as well without a little spacing.

Did you happen to take any pictures? :039:

Thanks :icon_cool:

Jimmytee

08-29-2015, 10:29 PM

Did you happen to take any pictures? :039:

Thanks :icon_cool:

Of which? For the 5.25"go to the first page of this thread.:039:

Willl

08-29-2015, 10:59 PM

:yes: Thanks

CoCoKola

08-30-2015, 02:20 PM

I originally mounted the 5.25" I bought a small square sheet of ABS. I trimmed out the outline of the stock speakers and then cut out the needed area inside that for the 5.25" I got the ABS from a local car audio place for $10. You can order various sizes and thicknesses of ABS from various sources on the web. Just google it. That's what I did anyways. :shrug:

It worked well. Since then , I have up sized to the 6.5" One of the 5.25" woofers had developed a slight rattle. I ran then very hard. The place I bought them will warranty them, but I didn't want to wait, so I ordered the 6.5".

If you go the ABS route, I'd recommend getting a thickness of about or a 1/4" thick. The 5.25" will bottom out as well without a little spacing.

I'll give it a go, hope the mm6501 is the same as the mm651!

CoCoKola

08-31-2015, 12:02 PM

I'll give it a go, hope the mm6501 is the same as the mm651!

This is info I posted on the other thread: the MM6501 is 3/16" deeper than the 651. so I may need to make more mods to make it fit. I'll be damned if I don't make this thing work though. I want the best sound I can get.

blackmetoc

09-20-2015, 04:19 PM

This is info I posted on the other thread: the MM6501 is 3/16" deeper than the 651. so I may need to make more mods to make it fit. I'll be damned if I don't make this thing work though. I want the best sound I can get.

How did it turn out?

thatonebiker

09-30-2015, 02:09 PM

Thanks for the update. So you'd say you're pretty satisfied with the results?

I know I have been. I just stayed with the 5.25" MM series as they really do rock and with the sub filling in the bottom end things are great.:icon_biggrin:
I'm still satisfied with the results and there is now over 12,000 miles on the system and still running strong. The fog lights are awesome but I do get flashed once on awhile.

thatonebiker

09-30-2015, 02:12 PM

How did it turn out?

I have the mm6501 kit installed for over 12,000 miles sofar the sound is great but it's alot of time and trimming required to make them fit

Hdnvn

10-25-2015, 07:01 AM

Jimmytee

10-25-2015, 07:19 AM

Hey Jimmy, I imagine you read this guys posts at one time. Whatr your thoughts?

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?338866-Sony-500-Watt-Amplifier-Polk-Audio-Speaker-Setup-on-2012-Goldwing#/forumsite/20566/topics/338866?page=1

Yes I read that thread before. If you've read my posting then you'll know that my first attempts with the NVX amp was with trying to use the speaker outputs from the factory system. That would have been the simplest and less invasive way to accomplish what i wanted. I tried using the speaker level inputs of the amp and using an external set of high to low level adapters. Both results were the same. Unsatisfactory. So much so, that I would have left the sound system stock before settling with that.

By all means, try that way My experience is mine( a couple of others as well) :icon_wink: Maybe with a higher end adapter or converter the results would be different or with a different amp, I don't know.

BruceN

03-10-2016, 04:45 AM

Jimmytee

03-10-2016, 05:59 AM

Hey Jimmy, thanks for your guidance in this space. Installed a set of the new J&Ms (tried cutting down a set of Polks, but failed miserably). Have built a box and mounted a 8" Rockford sub in the left bag, powering everything off a a Focal amp. I was looking at adding Polk tweeters and was wondering if you had any luck unmounting them and installing in the stock location?
:icon_wink:
You need to share some details and pics.

My tweeters are the Polk Audio ones that came with the MM series component speaker set. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15059_Polk-Audio-MM6501.html
I have them surface mounted over the same spot that the factory tweeters used to be. I was on the fence which way I wanted to go, but chose to surface mount them allowing me to have a little more flexibility in aiming the tweeters. The surface mounting allows them to swivel a little bit in their mounting cups.

Someone else chose to un-case the tweeters and mounted the tweeters in the factory location. So yes it can be done that way.

BruceN

03-19-2016, 01:59 AM

:icon_wink:
You need to share some details and pics.

My tweeters are the Polk Audio ones that came with the MM series component speaker set. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15059_Polk-Audio-MM6501.html
I have them surface mounted over the same spot that the factory tweeters used to be. I was on the fence which way I wanted to go, but chose to surface mount them allowing me to have a little more flexibility in aiming the tweeters. The surface mounting allows them to swivel a little bit in their mounting cups.

Someone else chose to un-case the tweeters and mounted the tweeters in the factory location. So yes it can be done that way.

As someone once said, it didn't happen if there were no pictures (or something like that):icon_cool:

8" Fosgate Punch, Focal Amp, J&M mid range speakers and Polk tweeters. Happy with this for the moment, the sound is pretty darn good.
196881968919690

Jimmytee

03-19-2016, 05:57 AM

As someone once said, it didn't happen if there were no pictures (or something like that):icon_cool:

8" Fosgate Punch, Focal Amp, J&M mid range speakers and Polk tweeters. Happy with this for the moment, the sound is pretty darn good.
196881968919690

Looks nice. Did you vent the saddlebag to allow air movement? Your amp looks like it is mounted where one of my three vets are.
So you have the J&M speakers hooked up to the Polk crossover or no?
Your sub looks like it takes up a little more space than mine. Is that a vented enclosure, did you make it?

BruceN

03-19-2016, 07:00 AM

Looks nice. Did you vent the saddlebag to allow air movement? Your amp looks like it is mounted where one of my three vets are.
So you have the J&M speakers hooked up to the Polk crossover or no?
Your sub looks like it takes up a little more space than mine. Is that a vented enclosure, did you make it?

Hey Jimmy,

Used the stock wiring for the J&Ms and just wired up the tweeters with their supplied passive crossovers. Two vents in the bag wall behind the sub (tyre side) with frogzkins. Thinking about a third vent, but have not made up my mind location and how to tidy it up. Thinking about just going through the leading edge of the bag and covering up with a speaker grill of some type.

The enclosure is sealed and yes, I knocked it up myself. It is just bigger than the minimum volume required for the woofer.

Jimmytee

03-19-2016, 08:10 AM

Hey Jimmy,

Used the stock wiring for the J&Ms and just wired up the tweeters with their supplied passive crossovers. Two vents in the bag wall behind the sub (tyre side) with frogzkins. Thinking about a third vent, but have not made up my mind location and how to tidy it up. Thinking about just going through the leading edge of the bag and covering up with a speaker grill of some type.

The enclosure is sealed and yes, I knocked it up myself. It is just bigger than the minimum volume required for the woofer.

I believe the third vent has been the most effective at hearing the bass while in motion. The third vent in mine is positioned right behind my left leg and so the sound is captured in the air envelope of the rider (me) . 38983899

BruceN

03-19-2016, 05:58 PM

Hi Jimmy, yes was thinking about following your lead on that, it would sit behind my amp, but there is plenty of room behind the amp due to the shape of the bag (the amp is not mounted flush).

alarmman215

04-21-2016, 06:16 PM

Maybe I missed something but what did you use for amp input if the line converters didnt work for you ??

Thanks

Jimmytee

04-21-2016, 07:45 PM

Maybe I missed something but what did you use for amp input if the line converters didnt work for you ??

Thanks

You must have. I intercepted the pre-amp signal from the "Audio Unit" at the harness for the OEM amplifier.

I no longer have any of the OEM electronics on my bike though. I installed a Clarion Hide Away marine unit.

alarmman215

04-22-2016, 01:18 PM

You must have. I intercepted the pre-amp signal from the "Audio Unit" at the harness for the OEM amplifier.

I no longer have any of the OEM electronics on my bike though. I installed a Clarion Hide Away marine unit.

What were the wire colors for each channel ?

Thanks

ths61

04-22-2016, 02:17 PM

What were the wire colors for each channel ?

Thanks

The first picture is of the front and back preamp wire colors on the harness between the OEM head unit and the OEM amp.

The second pictures shows both the preamp and speaker wire colors.

Click on the pictures to enlarge.

HTH

20385

20386

alarmman215

04-22-2016, 04:37 PM

Great thanks !!!!

mikeshan

05-20-2016, 05:27 PM

Totally a nube here and it is apparent you have much talent. I have zero with Goldwing.. Hope someone can offer assistance...

Papa Tater

08-22-2016, 08:25 PM

Jimmytee

08-22-2016, 08:33 PM

Jimmytee , how are the mm6501's holding up so far?. I'm thinking about getting them and adding a JL 8 inch sub. And crazy as it seems while trying to keep the stock head unit, of course with a different amp.

They are still rocking without issue. I ride quite a bit,and the stereo is pumping all the time. So they get a pretty good workout.

cruzdog954

08-24-2016, 06:22 PM

Good read. However, I am all thumbs. Do we know of an audio installer in South Florida that can tackle a project like this? I am looking at replacing speakers and amp. Not sure about the subwoofer on the saddlebags. I like the idea of the bluetooth amp.

Tedubya

09-13-2016, 01:07 PM

CoCoKola

09-13-2016, 02:07 PM

I just ordered the NVX MVP4A with the Blue Tooth controller. Still debating the JL sub or 8" coaxials in the bags.

BT add $38 to price of the amp. Controller can be ordered separately but at $75.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_109363_NVX-MVPA4-Micro-Amp-XUBT4-Marine-Grade-Bluetooth-Controller.html

If anyone is interested, i have a nvx mvp4 amp for sale. I'll add this to the for sale section. I went an entirely different route that is incredibly better and will share details on a new thread. I'm fine tuning things, and am still working on a sub solutionm based on others. Ideas.

Stay tuned

Papa Tater

09-13-2016, 02:32 PM

If anyone is interested, i have a nvx mvp4 amp for sale. I'll add this to the for sale section. I went an entirely different route that is incredibly better and will share details on a new thread. I'm fine tuning things, and am still working on a sub solutionm based on others. Ideas.

Stay tuned

Did your route include keeping the factory head unit?

Jimmytee

09-13-2016, 04:21 PM

If anyone is interested, i have a nvx mvp4 amp for sale. I'll add this to the for sale section. I went an entirely different route that is incredibly better and will share details on a new thread. I'm fine tuning things, and am still working on a sub solutionm based on others. Ideas.

Stay tuned

You going to make it to the Rally with system done?

Tedubya

09-14-2016, 11:34 AM

If anyone is interested, i have a nvx mvp4 amp for sale. I'll add this to the for sale section. I went an entirely different route that is incredibly better and will share details on a new thread. I'm fine tuning things, and am still working on a sub solutionm based on others. Ideas.

Stay tuned

You gotta give us something. I might want to return my NVX amp before its too late.
Was about to order JL sub but now I'm in a holding pattern.

hints, details, something

Todd

CoCoKola

09-15-2016, 01:33 AM

AMTedubya, sorry for the teaser. I made an attempt to post some details, check for new thread. I created a new thread so I could edit and add over time.

Cheers!

CoCoKola

09-15-2016, 01:34 AM

Did your route include keeping the factory head unit?

Yes, factory had unit still used.

Papa Tater

03-06-2017, 02:29 PM

Question for Jimmytee, after trying this and that I have decided to go with aftermarket head unit. The big ?? is, how did you connect to the factory F6B Antenna...?

Jimmytee

03-06-2017, 08:19 PM

Question for Jimmytee, after trying this and that I have decided to go with aftermarket head unit. The big ?? is, how did you connect to the factory F6B Antenna...?

I initially just plugged the antenna into the aftermarket stereo. I think I may have had to have a short extension or something. Since then , though, I did away with the factory antenna and installed a hidden powered antenna that is under the back tail piece. The stock antenna isn't worth much in performance and was always bent over whenever I had luggage on the luggage rack anyways.

I am getting ready to replace the aftermarket stereo with another aftermarket stereo. Color display and some other cool factors. Putting this in.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/pmx-1r

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/pmx-8bb

Papa Tater

03-06-2017, 11:07 PM

I initially just plugged the antenna into the aftermarket stereo. I think I may have had to have a short extension or something. Since then , though, I did away with the factory antenna and installed a hidden powered antenna that is under the back tail piece. The stock antenna isn't worth much in performance and was always bent over whenever I had luggage on the luggage rack anyways.

I am getting ready to replace the aftermarket stereo with another aftermarket stereo. Color display and some other cool factors. Putting this in.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/pmx-1r

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/pmx-8bb

Thanks, same here - I already have the pmx 2 headunit , and I have ordered the pmx 1r to go were the original radio controls go. I looked at the pmx-8bb, but it keeps stating everywhere use the PMX-8DH controller?, but can use the pmx 1r added with 3 way cord. Let me know if you found out that the pmx 1r can be used byitself with the pmx-8bb. by the Way the pmx 1r will be a tight fit where the stock radio controls are now- if that's where your mounting it. I like the way the pmx2 is working so far with the features, but it will not fit at all where the stock radio controls go, so that why I'm getting the pmx 1r to control the pmx 2

Jimmytee

03-07-2017, 01:31 AM

Thanks, same here - I already have the pmx 2 headunit , and I have ordered the pmx 1r to go were the original radio controls go. I looked at the pmx-8bb, but it keeps stating everywhere use the PMX-8DH controller?, but can use the pmx 1r added with 3 way cord. Let me know if you found out that the pmx 1r can be used byitself with the pmx-8bb. by the Way the pmx 1r will be a tight fit where the stock radio controls are now- if that's where your mounting it. I like the way the pmx2 is working so far with the features, but it will not fit at all where the stock radio controls go, so that why I'm getting the pmx 1r to control the pmx 2

Yes the PMX-1r has all the same functionality as the PMX-8dh with the exception that the PMX-8dh has a video input. The video input is for options that might be utilized on a boat or something , but not on the bike.To be safe, I had emailed Rockford Fosgate on the subject. They confirmed that was the case. Yes I am planning on mounting the PMX-1R right where the stereo contorls used to be on the left side of my fairing. I removed those controlss last year and fabbed up a panel there just for this purpose. When I initially bought the Clarion unit, it was because the Rockford was at that time still unavailable. It was several months, like more than a year before the Rockford finally became available.

What the 8bb does have, that the other ones do not, is "Steering Wheel Input". I'll be using a PAC Sw1-RC to adapt the Handlebar controls of the bike to operate the volume. channel up/down etc... At least that is my plan. Besides that, the 8BB also has a voltage function that is supposed to be displayable on the display. Not the main reason for buying it, but a nice feature to have.
I'll be installing the 8BB where the Clarion unit is now, which is in the box under the passenger seat where the factory "Audio Unit " used to be located.

Papa Tater

03-07-2017, 07:02 AM

Yes the PMX-1r has all the same functionality as the PMX-8dh with the exception that the PMX-8dh has a video input. The video input is for options that might be utilized on a boat or something , but not on the bike.To be safe, I had emailed Rockford Fosgate on the subject. They confirmed that was the case. Yes I am planning on mounting the PMX-1R right where the stereo contorls used to be on the left side of my fairing. I removed those controlss last year and fabbed up a panel there just for this purpose. When I initially bought the Clarion unit, it was because the Rockford was at that time still unavailable. It was several months, like more than a year before the Rockford finally became available.

What the 8bb does have, that the other ones do not, is "Steering Wheel Input". I'll be using a PAC Sw1-RC to adapt the Handlebar controls of the bike to operate the volume. channel up/down etc... At least that is my plan. Besides that, the 8BB also has a voltage function that is supposed to be displayable on the display. Not the main reason for buying it, but a nice feature to have.
I'll be installing the 8BB where the Clarion unit is now, which is in the box under the passenger seat where the factory "Audio Unit " used to be located.

Would be nice to have the steering wheel input, but not a dealbreaker right now for me. But after i see what you can do, I may change to that unit in the future. Thanks

Papa Tater

03-07-2017, 03:41 PM

Jimmytee

03-07-2017, 04:56 PM

Jimmytee , I got caught up in the about the Rockford Fosgate stuff. Back to my original question about the antenna connection? I got the aftermarket with an extension cable, but the F6B antenna has special/different plug connector on it. Did you cut that connector and splice into it?, or did you find some kind of adapter. Also what aftermarket powered antenna did you go with?

I have an adapter, I believe, but don't think it was something I bought, it was just among the collection of stuff I had laying around. There are a few on this page. If I think about it, I'll look around and see which one it is.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_4_10?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=antenna+adapter+for+car+radio&sprefix=antenna+ad%2Caps%2C176&crid=1NON9CLPTUGJK

Jimmytee

03-07-2017, 05:36 PM

I believe this is the one I used. It actually came from an install I had done in a Ford Econoline. I dunno it worked...lol

https://www.amazon.com/2007-2014-Factory-Aftermarket-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B019HHLU1E/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1488923685&sr=8-13&keywords=antenna+adapter+for+car+radio

Jimmytee

03-07-2017, 05:48 PM

Papa Tater

03-08-2017, 08:20 AM

Honestly, it seemed to work at least as well as it did with the factory antenna hooked to the factory system. To be honest, I really don't use the terrestrial radio much if at all. I'm usually using Sirius XM ,USB, or Bluetooth I heart or Pandora from my phone. Living in Kentucky, terrestrial radio gets static and fades in and out with hills a bit. I'd post a picture of my antenna, but we don't have that feature back yet. You do know that the cable unplug from the bottom of the OEM antenna though right? The short cable that is attached to the Grey plug affixed to the antenna mounting bracket. A couple of the selections from the first page I linked to , are adapter kits. That might be the best route, then you can determine what works best.

Thanks, I did not know that that pigtail from the antenna unplugged. Glad to know and will try that adapter. I mostly listen to usb myself , but its good to have FM and this polk also has the WB. - if needed. Just a note, the album art does not show up with a usb. I have an old iPhone that I have plugged in and works great (found a use for it- instead of collecting dust).

Jimmytee

03-08-2017, 12:26 PM

Thanks, I did not know that that pigtail from the antenna unplugged. Glad to know and will try that adapter. I mostly listen to usb myself , but its good to have FM and this polk also has the WB. - if needed. Just a note, the album art does not show up with a usb. I have an old iPhone that I have plugged in and works great (found a use for it- instead of collecting dust).

Yeah that was my understanding if using a USB connected to an Android phone. You need an I phone for the album art. I most likely would the USB for a thumb drive anyways. Whenever I want content from my phone , I just use Bluetooth. The Sirius XM should have whatever graffics are transmitted from each station though.

Papa Tater

03-08-2017, 05:04 PM

Yeah that was my understanding if using a USB connected to an Android phone. You need an I phone for the album art. I most likely would the USB for a thumb drive anyways. Whenever I want content from my phone , I just use Bluetooth. The Sirius XM should have whatever graffics are transmitted from each station though.

Not a big deal, just the cool -wow factor of the album art, I just happen to have a extra iPhone anyways and 30 plus gig is enough for my music. I just gonna leave plugged in and forget about it- the pmx 2 powers it up and charges it. I will post all my details on what I have done later, I did try to incorporate the factory head unit, with a unit to clean up the summing, rolloffs -etc for a flat signal, and I guess I'm too picky like you- but I was still getting what I consider unacceptable floor noise which is built into the head unit. I mean getting noise at lower volumes even and at 0, and when the calibration kicked in even increased it. You will be happy with the Rockford Fosgate Unit, no noises at 0 at all and very clean signal. I have been fabricating a plate to house the pmx 1r and the fog light and hazard (2015) buttons, has been an adventure so far working around issues for space, and radiator -etc.

Jimmytee

03-08-2017, 05:20 PM

Not a big deal, just the cool -wow factor of the album art, I just happen to have a extra iPhone anyways and 30 plus gig is enough for my music. I just gonna leave plugged in and forget about it- the pmx 2 powers it up and charges it. I will post all my details on what I have done later, I did try to incorporate the factory head unit, with a unit to clean up the summing, rolloffs -etc for a flat signal, and I guess I'm too picky like you- but I was still getting what I consider unacceptable floor noise which is built into the head unit. I mean getting noise at lower volumes even and at 0, and when the calibration kicked in even increased it. You will be happy with the Rockford Fosgate Unit, no noises at 0 at all and very clean signal. I have been fabricating a plate to house the pmx 1r and the fog light and hazard (2015) buttons, has been an adventure so far working around issues for space, and radiator -etc.

I've really been pretty happy with the Clarion unit. The Rockford PMX-8BB adds a couple more features and then there is the better display. better display. I really kind of toiled over whether to spend the money because the Clarion works pretty well, but the Rockford was what I really wanted in the first place, but they kept delaying the availability ,with no clear availability date at the time. Yesterday the 8BB arrived and today the PMX-1R remote with an extension cable arrived.
Just as I was typing , the UPS guy brought me another package...lol I've got a number of things going on/planned for my F6B. Started to dig into the forks last weekend, upgrading the front suspension, when I realized I should have new fork seals and bushings if I'm taking the forks apart. Don't know why I hadn't thought of that before then. Installing All Balls Head Bearings and Progressive monotube cartridges.

Jimmytee

03-11-2017, 11:54 AM

I've really been pretty happy with the Clarion unit. The Rockford PMX-8BB adds a couple more features and then there is the better display. better display. I really kind of toiled over whether to spend the money because the Clarion works pretty well, but the Rockford was what I really wanted in the first place, but they kept delaying the availability ,with no clear availability date at the time. Yesterday the 8BB arrived and today the PMX-1R remote with an extension cable arrived.
Just as I was typing , the UPS guy brought me another package...lol I've got a number of things going on/planned for my F6B. Started to dig into the forks last weekend, upgrading the front suspension, when I realized I should have new fork seals and bushings if I'm taking the forks apart. Don't know why I hadn't thought of that before then. Installing All Balls Head Bearings and Progressive monotube cartridges.

OMG, I am extremely pleased with this Rockford Fosgate PMX=8BB. I really didn't expect that much difference sonically, but wow and with all the features. By the way, Papa Tater, Bluetoothing Pandora from my phone I do get album art. Haven't been outside the garage yet to try Sirius XM. Really don't have things finalized yet , just loosely hooked up with the 8BB in the box where the Clarion was and before that the OEM audio unit. So many nice features, with the real DSP on board the 8BB. Thoroughly pleased.

Papa Tater

03-11-2017, 10:24 PM

OMG, I am extremely pleased with this Rockford Fosgate PMX=8BB. I really didn't expect that much difference sonically, but wow and with all the features. By the way, Papa Tater, Bluetoothing Pandora from my phone I do get album art. Haven't been outside the garage yet to try Sirius XM. Really don't have things finalized yet , just loosely hooked up with the 8BB in the box where the Clarion was and before that the OEM audio unit. So many nice features, with the real DSP on board the 8BB. Thoroughly pleased.

Sounds Great, I haven't tryed the Pandora Yet. I'm still working on fabricating a plate to mount the PMX 1r and driving lights and Hazzard buttons. You will see things are tight - also those two threaded studs on the back won't remove, but you can loosen the nuts at the base and those studs will go inside the housing. I did leave the nuts on with a little of the threaded stud showing, I was afraid it would fall inside the housing and not be able to remove and add a unwanted rattle.

Jimmytee

03-11-2017, 10:38 PM

Sounds Great, I haven't tryed the Pandora Yet. I'm still working on fabricating a plate to mount the PMX 1r and driving lights and Hazzard buttons. You will see things are tight - also those two threaded studs on the back won't remove, but you can loosen the nuts at the base and those studs will go inside the housing. I did leave the nuts on with a little of the threaded stud showing, I was afraid it would fall inside the housing and not be able to remove and add a unwanted rattle.

My PMX-1R is already mounted.

Papa Tater

03-13-2017, 12:53 PM

My PMX-1R is already mounted.

Good to know you got it going, I'm just trying get those silly little buttons to look like factory and function like factory. (Driving Lights and Hazzard) not such a easy task- at least for me. More time spent on that and trimming speakers and speaker grill bezels than I care to admit.

Jimmytee

03-13-2017, 04:46 PM

Good to know you got it going, I'm just trying get those silly little buttons to look like factory and function like factory. (Driving Lights and Hazzard) not such a easy task- at least for me. More time spent on that and trimming speakers and speaker grill bezels than I care to admit.

I had already prepared the panel last year when I removed the factory stereo controls from the left side that were no longer used with the Clarion unit.

All I had to do was to mount the PMX-1R into that location. It's up to you, but after trying to fab up a couple pieces to , I ended up sacrificing the panel with the buttons. I removed all the buttons but the one for the fog lights. I smoothed/flattened off the surface of that panel with a dremmel . I then cut a piece of ABS plastic , thinking it was 1/16 thick, to the shape to fit over the panel. I cut out the square opening to fit around the fog light switch. Used a heat gun to conform it to the slight bend in the panel and glued it to the surface. Looking at it , you'd never know unless I told you,which I just did. ...lol I

Jimmytee

03-13-2017, 05:02 PM

Papa Tater

03-13-2017, 07:29 PM

I mounted my PMX-1R using the 4 screws though the four corners and into the supplied bracket on the opposite side of the surface. As far as those 2 bolts, They are not needed unless you want to mount with that clamp , which there is no room for that. So the expedient thing to do is use a cut off wheel on a Dremmel and cut those bolts down as short as you can.

I had planned on cutting off those 2 bolts, I don't have the guts to hack up the $450.00 control panel LOL yet. Taking a break tonight on the fabrication. I have decided I'm going to send back the PMX 2 and get the PMX 8bb, after hearing from you that I don't have to get the other controller. Wanting the same features I have, but adding the RDS for fm is a plus and hoping that you get the handle bar controls to work would be great. Now that Picts are working on the forum now, would be nice to see what it looks like and your panel mod.

F6Pilot

03-13-2017, 07:41 PM

I removed all the buttons but the one for the fog lights. Still at it I see. Jimmy, what did you do with the sacrificial factory buttons? I'm looking at maybe utilizing an empty spot in the factory radio panel to install a factory button and control the garage door.

Jimmytee

03-13-2017, 08:22 PM

I had planned on cutting off those 2 bolts, I don't have the guts to hack up the $450.00 control panel LOL yet. Taking a break tonight on the fabrication. I have decided I'm going to send back the PMX 2 and get the PMX 8bb, after hearing from you that I don't have to get the other controller. Wanting the same features I have, but adding the RDS for fm is a plus and hoping that you get the handle bar controls to work would be great. Now that Picts are working on the forum now, would be nice to see what it looks like and your panel mod.

Pictures are working? Where?

Yeah, well sacrificing the panel was a choice I made. I figured that I will never return the bike to stock and if and when I were to sell, well she'll be sold with the goodies.

Yeah I am really digging the 8BB. I haven't got everything back in it's place yet. I did get the handlebar controls to work the 8BB. I can walk you through that, it's not hard. I did have a hiccup that got sorted out today. I bought a PAC Audio SWI-RC steering wheel control adapter. The instructions online and that came with the unit say to set a selector switch to a position categorized as "Other". This other category is supposed to cover some various brands including Rockford Fosgate. It didn't. After calling Tech support today, I was instructed to set the adapter to the position for "Clarion". That fixed it and now my handlebar controls are working. YEAHHHHHHHHH

Jimmytee

03-13-2017, 08:25 PM

Still at it I see. Jimmy, what did you do with the sacrificial factory buttons? I'm looking at maybe utilizing an empty spot in the factory radio panel to install a factory button and control the garage door.

They're in a ziplok bag....lol

I'd have to look at them to tell you whether they'd be able to be re-purposed like that.

Papa Tater

03-13-2017, 08:32 PM

Pictures are working? Where?

Yeah, well sacrificing the panel was a choice I made. I figured that I will never return the bike to stock and if and when I were to sell, well she'll be sold with the goodies.

Yeah I am really digging the 8BB. I haven't got everything back in it's place yet. I did get the handlebar controls to work the 8BB. I can walk you through that, it's not hard. I did have a hiccup that got sorted out today. I bought a PAC Audio SWI-RC steering wheel control adapter. The instructions online and that came with the unit say to set a selector switch to a position categorized as "Other". This other category is supposed to cover some various brands including Rockford Fosgate. It didn't. After calling Tech support today, I was instructed to set the adapter to the position for "Clarion". That fixed it and now my handlebar controls are working. YEAHHHHHHHHH

I spoke too soon, I figured that Picts where working since your Picts have returned in this thread. I see that you can't post Picts yet- sorry. I don't have a workshop manual yet for my f6b, so I wasn't going to tackle handlebar controls anytime soon? Unless it was simple, I almost got that unit or one similar a few years back for my f150 but never did.

Jimmytee

03-13-2017, 08:46 PM

I spoke too soon, I figured that Picts where working since your Picts have returned in this thread. I see that you can't post Picts yet- sorry. I don't have a workshop manual yet for my f6b, so I wasn't going to tackle handlebar controls anytime soon? Unless it was simple, I almost got that unit or one similar a few years back for my f150 but never did.

It's pretty simple. Just four wires tapped just before one of the plugs that used to plug into the "Audio Unit" Those four wires get wired in a circuit with some resistors and paralleled down to 2 wires that connect to the PAC adapter. Just some really simple soldering and heat shrink tubing. When you get the unit 8BB, I can walk you though it. I can post a schematic of the resistor circuit. Essentially the PAC is looking for a voltage drop (created by the resistors) for each button operation. I am only looking at 4 functions. So when the volume up button is pushed, one resistance/voltage drop and so on.

Jimmytee

03-21-2017, 09:05 PM

This is a teaser pic. The phone doesn't really take a good picture of the display screen with glare and all. I don't have the trim pieces on the fairing. Still messing around with various projects. Hurt my shoulder a week ago and that has slowed me down.

https://scontent.fbna1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t34.0-12/17351194_1465025576872525_940456323_n.jpg?oh=ff44b d29bbc231df1ce60a4629a93dd1&oe=58D3E40C

Papa Tater

03-22-2017, 04:57 PM

Papa Tater

03-22-2017, 05:18 PM

Would like to see pics on how you mounted the 8bb unit. You mentioned it was where the factory audio unit was?, did you put it inside the plastic housing - etc.?

Jimmytee

03-22-2017, 06:20 PM

Would like to see pics on how you mounted the 8bb unit. You mentioned it was where the factory audio unit was?, did you put it inside the plastic housing - etc.?

Well this is a pic of it just sitting in the box. Now it is in the box and I pulled all the connectors that I am not using back into the box. There are four complete sets of preouts, 2 sets of auxillary inputs, plus CAN connectors not used and a thing or two else, I am not using. I stuffed the unused stuff back into the box. I also ran a 1/4" x 20 screw on each side with nuts capturing the unit to mount it through the bottom. Also the steering wheel adapter from PAC is in that box with the stereo as well. This was just the initial pic I took when I set it in there.

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s667/Jimmytee68/Box_zpsip0ellgr.jpg

Papa Tater

03-22-2017, 07:02 PM

Well this is a pic of it just sitting in the box. Now it is in the box and I pulled all the connectors that I am not using back into the box. There are four complete sets of preouts, 2 sets of auxillary inputs, plus CAN connectors not used and a thing or two else, I am not using. I stuffed the unused stuff back into the box. I also ran a 1/4" x 20 screw on each side with nuts capturing the unit to mount it through the bottom. Also the steering wheel adapter from PAC is in that box with the stereo as well. This was just the initial pic I took when I set it in there.

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s667/Jimmytee68/Box_zpsip0ellgr.jpg

That's what I had pictured in my mind, as far as the factory harness that went into the box. Did you just leave under the seat secured and some kind of cap or cover on the ends, I know you said you had tapped into it for the steering wheel adapter.

Jimmytee

03-22-2017, 07:36 PM

That's what I had pictured in my mind, as far as the factory harness that went into the box. Did you just leave under the seat secured and some kind of cap or cover on the ends, I know you said you had tapped into it for the steering wheel adapter.

Yes the harness and plugs that previously went into that box are bundled up and sit in front of that box. I just used good electrical tape to cover the plugs. Really, the OEM stuff will never be back on this bike, but just for good measure, the plugs are wrapped in the electrical tape to protect and to help bundle them up.

Papa Tater

03-22-2017, 07:48 PM

Yes the harness and plugs that previously went into that box are bundled up and sit in front of that box. I just used good electrical tape to cover the plugs. Really, the OEM stuff will never be back on this bike, but just for good measure, the plugs are wrapped in the electrical tape to protect and to help bundle them up.

Ok and thanks, looks like you cut out a bigger hole the left (on picture) - but right side box as reference to the bike. Is that needed for wires to come out? Or was that a matter of preference?. Won't have 8bb till tomorrow

Jimmytee

03-22-2017, 08:05 PM

Ok and thanks, looks like you cut out a bigger hole the left (on picture) - but right side box as reference to the bike. Is that needed for wires to come out? Or was that a matter of preference?. Won't have 8bb till tomorrow

Yes the hole on the right is just a round one as it was and not big enough to fit the connectors through. I just used a dremmel wit a cutting wheel and squared out the hole. Easy Peasy.

Jimmytee

03-23-2017, 04:04 AM

Yes the hole on the right is just a round one as it was and not big enough to fit the connectors through. I just used a dremmel wit a cutting wheel and squared out the hole. Easy Peasy.

Correction, the hole on the left as you stated.

Papa Tater

03-26-2017, 12:05 PM

It's pretty simple. Just four wires tapped just before one of the plugs that used to plug into the "Audio Unit" Those four wires get wired in a circuit with some resistors and paralleled down to 2 wires that connect to the PAC adapter. Just some really simple soldering and heat shrink tubing. When you get the unit 8BB, I can walk you though it. I can post a schematic of the resistor circuit. Essentially the PAC is looking for a voltage drop (created by the resistors) for each button operation. I am only looking at 4 functions. So when the volume up button is pushed, one resistance/voltage drop and so on.

I did get the PMX 8BB , looks like I'm going to do the same and put it in the stock box where the stock audio unit was. Haven't got the PAC yet, but will be adding it soon. I would definately need the know what 4 wires to tap into. I'm running a few days behind here with other household projects, and hope to jump back on this - this week. Thanks Again for your help.

Jimmytee

03-26-2017, 12:22 PM

I did get the PMX 8BB , looks like I'm going to do the same and put it in the stock box where the stock audio unit was. Haven't got the PAC yet, but will be adding it soon. I would definately need the know what 4 wires to tap into. I'm running a few days behind here with other household projects, and hope to jump back on this - this week. Thanks Again for your help.

No problem. will have to upload pictures to photobucket to put them on here though. Just let me know when you get to that point.

Papa Tater

03-27-2017, 09:43 PM

Jimmytee

03-28-2017, 04:48 PM

Got the dremmel out tonight and sat the 8BB inside the stock audio housing box. Wishing the unit did not have all those extra zone out connections LOL, little on the bulky side. I know you mentioned tucking all the unused connectors back into the box, did you put the lid back on? or did you leave it off?. You also had put the PAC inside the box? I did a temporary hook up to test things out and liking so far.

I'm using three of the 4 zone outputs. Zone 1 for the front, zone2 for the rear speakers I have, and the sub pre outs from zone1 . I have zone 3 feeding a jack up in my left fairing pocket to feed a Sens Bluetooth transmitter if I just want to hear music in my helmet. I am not using zone 4 or the two auxilary inputs. or the white USB charging jack
I have the Sirius XM plugged up to my SiriusXM tuner.
I have the PAC unit plugged into the Steering WHeel input jack
I have my powered antenna plugged into the antenna.
I have the cable that connects to a USB jack in my left fairing pocket plugged up to the USB input.

The PAC unit, Zone 4 pre out, the white USB charging jack and the two aux inputs are in the box and I have the cover back on the box. There really is plenty of room.

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s667/Jimmytee68/20170328_175225_zpsewajhpob.jpg

Papa Tater

04-02-2017, 09:40 PM

Got a chance to get back to working on it, did a rough hook up to test things out. I'm so glad I went with the 8BB, and so glad that I could not the PMX2 to fit. Big differnces with how the bluetooth works with my iPhone, it shows album art with everything I throw at it, internal I phone music, google play, pandora - etc, where the PMX2 did not unless it was hooked up via USB. Also Bluetooth connects quickly, works better than my truck with a Pioneer head unit.
Very Pleased so far and getting great sound from that unit, still at flat setting and amp set to full range. I don't have my sub yet and haven't played with any settings yet.

Jimmytee

04-02-2017, 09:47 PM

Papa Tater

04-05-2017, 06:56 PM

No problem. will have to upload pictures to photobucket to put them on here though. Just let me know when you get to that point.

When you get a chance , can I get what 4 wires I need to tap into for the PAC, and did you also hook up the mute function? Wanted to at least get that sorted out before taping- securing that bulky wiring harness. I don't have a workshop manual, awhile back dealer did not have and said would take awhile to get one- I haven't tryed lately. Thanks again.

I just might actually get this thing done soon, funny how work and family functions get in the way getting her done LOL.

Jimmytee

04-05-2017, 08:18 PM

When you get a chance , can I get what 4 wires I need to tap into for the PAC, and did you also hook up the mute function? Wanted to at least get that sorted out before taping- securing that bulky wiring harness. I don't have a workshop manual, awhile back dealer did not have and said would take awhile to get one- I haven't tryed lately. Thanks again.

I just might actually get this thing done soon, funny how work and family functions get in the way getting her done LOL.

There are 2) 24 pin gray plugs that plug into the "Audio Unit " . The main box that sits inside the black box under the seat.
We're only dealing with one of those plugs.
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s667/Jimmytee68/plugs_zpsq4svtzis.jpg

One of the plugs has a white latch ,that one is not our concern.
You're looking for 4 wires on that plug. I cut them a couple inches back from the plug. If,for whatever reason, you wanted to reconnect them, a simple splice would repair it.
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s667/Jimmytee68/plugs%202_zpsqu2efosx.jpg

Basically a yellow, white,black and brown wires
I don't know how well this picture will come out ,but this is a pic of the schematic /wiring diagram.

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s667/Jimmytee68/schematic_zpshq2nskcd.jpg

I wired /soldered a resistor to each wire. I then paired the other side of those resistors down to 2 wires.

I used an online resistance calculator for the values. It's on this site. http://pac-audio.com/support.aspx

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s667/Jimmytee68/wires_zpszzjscd4z.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s667/Jimmytee68/wires2_zpsgdad9p8o.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s667/Jimmytee68/wires%203_zpszermhssw.jpg

Basically the yellow and white wires each have a resistor soldered to them , then the other side of those resistors are put together to be soldered to the white wire of the PAC unit. The black and brown wires are the same, but they go to the black wire of the PAC unit which is actually ground or negative. The PAC has a black wire that comes out and has two black wires attached to it, One of those goes to negative or ground and the other you'll use to attach to the brown and black wired resistors. The white wire from the PAC unit actually has three white wires. I used the one with no stripe, The others are fine, they just add resistors.
It might sound more complicated than it is, but it really is pretty simple. I had to identify which wires were what using a multi-meter and the wiring diagram,

I found out that to get the Rockford unit working, I had to set the PAC unit for "Clarion" Had to call tech support for that.

Papa Tater

04-05-2017, 08:47 PM

Wow and thanks again. I will give it a try this weekend.

Jimmytee

04-05-2017, 09:07 PM

Wow and thanks again. I will give it a try this weekend.

No problem. I forgot to mention that I did not concern myself with the Mute function. This would have to be done outside of the PAC steering wheel adapter for a couple reasons.

One, the handlebar "Mute" button is not a momentary switch. I don't know if it were to be dissected, if it could be converted, but could just be Pandora's box to put it all back together.

Two, there isn't a Mute function to program into the PAC unit for the 8BB under the Clarion program list.

Now the way you could utilize the Mute button would be to interrupt the amplifier trigger signal that turns on the amplifier thus turning off the amp with the Mute button. This would in effect, mute the audio. According to the wiring diagram, though, the wiring for the mut button goes through a different wiring harness and terminates somewhere else. So one would have to either go to the switch, or find where the wires terminate at to wire them up. If the wires had terminated in the same bundle as the other wires, I would have gone the route of wiring up as I mentioned. As it is, it wasn't that important to me.

Papa Tater

04-17-2017, 09:48 AM

Finally got some time yesterday to get back on this. Ran into problem bundled the harness and connections forward of the audio box, but I have the stock seat and have no room in between the bottom of the seat and upper rear fender. Just removed the stock audio box completely and turned 888b unit the connections facing to left side of the bike, allowing the factory wiring to come more to the rear. I see that you have a Corbin seat and I know another person was able to put a couple of small amps under there with a mustang seat, no way with the stock seat. Also haven't got the PAC yet, been reading up on the instructions with them and also with yours also. The big ??is which resistors did you put with those wires - and were they the ones supplied with the PAC unit? I'm good more with plug and play and fabrication, but when it comes to figuring that out is above myself even with your detailed instructions. That's my update so far and again thanks.

Jimmytee

04-17-2017, 01:02 PM

Papa Tater

04-17-2017, 02:24 PM

I actually test fitted mine with the OEM seat as my Corbin was at the upholstery shop at the time. I did end up squeezing almost all the RCA connectors back into the box because there was not enough room for the seat otherwise like you said. But I got it to fit.
Yes the resistors come with the PAC unit. I think there should be a link to the online resistance calculator that is helpful in determining which resistor combinations work best. When you get it I can do my best to help you from this side of things.

That's the only thing I don't like about 888b, I wish that the connections were like amps and plugged into the unit instead. I may try to push and shove wires back in, it was getting late working on it last night and me getting stupid (LOL).

Papa Tater

06-20-2017, 09:04 PM

Jimmytee

06-20-2017, 09:41 PM

Jimmytee , how's your PAC controls been working? Mine have been working great sitting in garage - all the time when 1st using. I have ran into issues with the volume down after riding the bike for about a half hour or after using volume down several times it quits working. Volume up and track/station up and also down always work with no issues. Was thinking maybe a connection issue at 1st, but my thinking changed when it started working o.k. on the next ride- day untill I rode for 20-30 mins again it quit working - volume down.

Not had any issues with my volume buttons. I've had an issue with my track up button though. My track up button wants to instead raise the volume.
It worked perfectly when I installed and tested it, but after I shrank wrapped everything and had it all tucked away, it started acting as you described only with the symptoms I described. I figure it is one , an issue with the PAC unit or two, there needs to be a larger resistance difference between the track up and volume up functions. At some point I'll dig back into it, but after all the stuff I did to my bike with suspension upgrades, saddlebag openers and so on, I was done. It will wait, and until then I just settle for reaching down to the controller to change tracks.
However, if it were my volume, I'd be more inclined to dig back into it. I've not had an issue with the volume functions. That's probably the most important one. Did you test out your functions with the bike running ? I know the higher voltages from the alternator output can have an effect on the funcions.

Papa Tater

06-21-2017, 06:00 AM

Not had any issues with my volume buttons. I've had an issue with my track up button though. My track up button wants to instead raise the volume.
It worked perfectly when I installed and tested it, but after I shrank wrapped everything and had it all tucked away, it started acting as you described only with the symptoms I described. I figure it is one , an issue with the PAC unit or two, there needs to be a larger resistance difference between the track up and volume up functions. At some point I'll dig back into it, but after all the stuff I did to my bike with suspension upgrades, saddlebag openers and so on, I was done. It will wait, and until then I just settle for reaching down to the controller to change tracks.
However, if it were my volume, I'd be more inclined to dig back into it. I've not had an issue with the volume functions. That's probably the most important one. Did you test out your functions with the bike running ? I know the higher voltages from the alternator output can have an effect on the funcions.

I did google it and that's one of the concerns, I too would have too dig back into it as well - even to just get to reprogram the pac unit. PINTA and thanks.

mrjava

07-09-2017, 10:24 AM

Man, I need those pictures...
Does anyone know if there is a way to download the pics?

cdtessmer

08-07-2017, 08:41 PM

These speakers have sizable crossovers with them that required deciding where to put them. The stock speakers have small capacitor on the tweeter as a way to roll off the low frequencies and the woofer is just run full range. I chose to tuck the crossovers behind the windscreen in the fairing.
10647

10648

The next decision was to how to mount the tweeters. I've been corresponding with another guy who is doing a similar upgrade. That's how I know that the 6.5" speakers can be made to fit. cooldude He has mounted the tweeters where the stock tweeters are located. He uncased the tweeters as they come, and they fit. This had not even occurred to me when I mounted mine as the tweeters are too large to fit as they come. The tweeters come with two options for mounting. Flush mounting and surface mounting. To flush mount them using the items as they come from Polk Audio, would have required some irreversible modifications to the dash/grill area. I wasn't too keen on that, so I chose to surface mount the tweeters. I had to drill two small holes in each speaker grill screen. This was to accommodate the speaker wire and the mounting screw/bolt. They come out fine IMHO, but I may choose to mount them the way this other guy did. I'm planning on ordering some custom painted screens with the CVMA logo painted on them, and may choose to change the mounting at that time.
The advantage to the surface mounting is that the tweeters can be pivoted for aiming. Not a big deal, but it is a consideration that once they are mounted in the stock location, they are fixed.

10649

This brings us to the amplifier and it's hook up. This was the most challenging part of the install. I did not think or plan on the difficulties experienced, but my learning process may help others.

I chose a fairly new / unknown amplifier company named NVX. Their products seem to be mainly available through Sonic Electronix online. This is the amp I chose. I got it for Christmas. Remember theme?:icon_cool:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html

It has great reviews and has been bench tested to outperform the manufacturer's specifications. It is also very small/compact. The amplifier was not what made the install difficult. The difficulty came in getting an audio signal for the amplifier to amplify. :icon_rolleyes: On the onset , it seemed it should be a pretty straight forward deal. The amplifier has both RCA inputs and speaker level inputs for when RCAs are not present. Sooooo, I initially hooked up the amplifier using the speaker wires from the factory system. I ran them to the speaker level inputs and then ran speaker wire from the amp to the crossovers of each speaker channel. Voila right? NO. It sounded like crap. However, I could hook my phone directly into the amp and it's RCA inputs and it sounded great. So the sound through the factory system was awful. I would put it all back to stock before living with that. It sounded like the input of the new amp was being over driven. So I bought some Low to High impedance adapter ( Speaker level to RCA adapter). The one I chose is supposed to be rated to 50 watts. Same situation. Now I'm beginning to wonder or suspect that the OEM electronics just suck that much. I had too options or thoughts. One, I could purchase another adapter rated to an even higher wattage input. Or two , I could tap into the OEM wiring harness and hijack the pre out signals before they go to the factory amp. Let me digress for a moment.

There was a third option. That involved using the headset signal as a pre-amp signal to the amplifier. There is an adapter that will adapt the 5 pin din plug to an 1/8" stereo plug. The one could use another adapter to then adapt the 1/8" stereo plug to a couple of RCAs. I tried this out. Not with buying any adapters, but I tapped into the harness for the headset and soldered op a couple of RCAs. It worked great, and if someone didn't want to do the soldering, they could use the mentioned adapters. I didn't have the patience to wait for ordering the 5 pin din adapter. There are a couple of caveats to going this route that might be obvious. One, the headset button has to be engaged for the stereo to then work. Two, if someone wants to have their headset fuction normally without the speakers playing too, this won't work. Plus, I use the fading feature of the stereo with my final set up. There is no fading with the headset option. Here is the harness after I tapped into it.
10650

What I did end up doing.

I chose to tap into the pre out signals. Now, at the time of doing this, I did not have the Honda Shop manual yet. I now have that. Got it from my dealer for $69. Pretty good deal considering the best I've seen the net was $10 more. The mechanic let me take some pictures of his manual and the wiring diagrams needed. He had to unwrap his manual as it was brand new. They are a very new dealer that opened up about 2 years ago I think . It's where I bought my F6B and they're just 2 miles or so down the road. cooldude I tried to get him to just give me his in exchange for the one I ordered, but he said he'd be in trouble if for some reason Honda were to find him without one on hand.. :icon_rolleyes:
I removed the tail end body work and removed the OEM amplifier. The amplifier resides in an enclosure by itself behind the rear wheel. I didn't have to remove the amplifier to tap into the signals, but my intention was to put the new amplifier in it's place. The audio signals that feed the amplifier come from the "Audio Unit" located under the passenger seat in a black enclosure. This would be equivalent to what would be called the head unit in car audio terms. The controls on the fairing left side are just that. Controls. I pulled out the amplifier and made the decision to cut the wiring harness in half. The amplifier has three bundles coming from the amp to a plug that plugs into the factory wiring harness. I cut the three bundles mid way and now I had the factory plug with the wires needed. If I ,for some reason, wanted to return the bike to stock, I will have to splice and solder all those wires back together. In those wires are the speaker wires for four speakers ( the bike is wired for all four speakers even though it only has the front speakers) , the wires for the pre out signals for all 4 channels and positive power and ground. I made up a harness, thinking I'd try to use all the factory wiring. This proved unsatisfactory and I ended up only using the pre out signals. Both the factory power leads and the factory speaker wiring degrade the sound substantially. Here is a pic of the harness i first made up.
10651

Ultimately, the idea of putting the amp back where the OEM resided , was not going to work. Had I not just lost my patience, I may have been able to figure out a way to make it work, but I was back and forth whether that was where I really wanted it. The enclosure there has a drain for a reason, and I just was not sure how the new amp would survive. Did I mention it's behind the rear wheel underneath the rear fender? :icon_mrgreen: The issue was that the wiring harness I built was too long and required too much space and that the new amp had to sit vertically where the RCA jacks protruded above the plane of the enclosure leaving a hump that there was no room for. I could have got some right angle adapters for the RCAs and maybe resolved the issue by modifying my harness, but foooey. :banghead:

Here is a pic of the amp in the enclosure.
10652
Have to split this up again.

Hi, I'm new to the site and to Goldwings. I bought a new 2016 F6B and want to upgrade the audio. In order to install a powered sub in the saddlebag, where do you get the inputs from? I don't want to remove the stock amp yet as my budget won't allow me to spend that much money right now, but I do plan to add two 4" speakers in the fairing using the rear speaker outputs. Can I tap into the + of one channel and the - of the other before the factory amp for the sub? How would that work? Any assistance you can lend me is greatly appreciated.

Jimmytee

08-07-2017, 10:21 PM

Hi, I'm new to the site and to Goldwings. I bought a new 2016 F6B and want to upgrade the audio. In order to install a powered sub in the saddlebag, where do you get the inputs from? I don't want to remove the stock amp yet as my budget won't allow me to spend that much money right now, but I do plan to add two 4" speakers in the fairing using the rear speaker outputs. Can I tap into the + of one channel and the - of the other before the factory amp for the sub? How would that work? Any assistance you can lend me is greatly appreciated.

I'd hold out a bit. There is someone that is going to be offering some audio stuff for the F6B and Gold Wing. Among the items are some speaker pods for the fairing that would replace the left side pocket and the lid on the right side. These pods will accommodate 6.5" speakers. As far as a sub, it is going to need to be amplified, whether by an on board amp or a separate amp. As far as getting a signal from the stock system to another amp, that is a mixed bag of nuts. I had little success in a satisfactory outcome trying to use the speaker level outputs of the OEM system. I originally ended up , as detailed in this post, finding the pre out signals from the OEM head unit. Some others have done it, but my experience wasn't positive with the high level outputs. Now, I no longer have any of the factory system on my B.

CoCoKola

08-08-2017, 10:54 AM

I'd hold out a bit. There is someone that is going to be offering some audio stuff for the F6B and Gold Wing. Among the items are some speaker pods for the fairing that would replace the left side pocket and the lid on the right side. These pods will accommodate 6.5" speakers. As far as a sub, it is going to need to be amplified, whether by an on board amp or a separate amp. As far as getting a signal from the stock system to another amp, that is a mixed bag of nuts. I had little success in a satisfactory outcome trying to use the speaker level outputs of the OEM system. I originally ended up , as detailed in this post, finding the pre out signals from the OEM head unit. Some others have done it, but my experience wasn't positive with the high level outputs. Now, I no longer have any of the factory system on my B.

Jimmyt, I think you missed that he is asking about tapping pre factory amp, not post. And as I have pointed out previously, my experience with tapping post amp was favorable.

cdtessmer,
Search for my post on audio upgrade for details on what to tap. I have schematics showing what you need.

Jimmytee

08-08-2017, 09:02 PM

Jimmyt, I think you missed that he is asking about tapping pre factory amp, not post. And as I have pointed out previously, my experience with tapping post amp was favorable.

cdtessmer,
Search for my post on audio upgrade for details on what to tap. I have schematics showing what you need.

I think you should re read my post. I specifically mentioned hooking it up from the pre outs. I detailed it greatly in this thread. Pictures are no longer there because of the deal with Photobucket screwing everyone over.:icon_rolleyes: He also mentioned not having a lot to spend right now, but yeah he should buy that Audison Prima.:icon_lol::icon_lol::icon_lol::icon_lol::ico n_lol:

CoCoKola

08-11-2017, 07:06 PM

I think you should re read my post. I specifically mentioned hooking it up from the pre outs. I detailed it greatly in this thread. Pictures are no longer there because of the deal with Photobucket screwing everyone over.:icon_rolleyes: He also mentioned not having a lot to spend right now, but yeah he should buy that Audison Prima.:icon_lol::icon_lol::icon_lol::icon_lol::ico n_lol:

You don't need a audison prima. there are units half that price now that provide similar, if not better. A decent speaker ->line level works as well.

All I know is I am happy with my rig and it was a great learning experience. To each their own..
-R

Jimmytee

08-12-2017, 12:36 AM

You don't need a audison prima. there are units half that price now that provide similar, if not better. A decent speaker ->line level works as well.

All I know is I am happy with my rig and it was a great learning experience. To each their own..
-R

I'm aware of what is out there. :icon_wink: I was just simply responding to your claim that I missed the point of his question . This in a thread that detailed very thoroughly both approaches. Albeit the pictures are no longer there.

53driver

08-12-2017, 06:11 PM

Alright you two - we'll have a stereo war on Saturday.

Musicians & sound engineers will judge.

Steve

F6Pilot

08-12-2017, 09:32 PM

Still crossing those swords I see.......swordfight :stirthepot:

Jimmytee

08-13-2017, 07:22 AM

Still crossing those swords I see.......swordfight :stirthepot:

:icon_lol: I hope there are others that surprise us with some innovative upgrades. There is a shop in AZ that has promised to begin offering some F6B specific audio upgrades. Unfortunately, their schedule was already too full up with tings like Sturgis to have product ready for our Rally.

LA Weld

08-13-2017, 10:06 AM

:icon_lol: I hope there are others that surprise us with some innovative upgrades. There is a shop in AZ that has promised to begin offering some F6B specific audio upgrades. Unfortunately, their schedule was already too full up with tings like Sturgis to have product ready for our Rally.
Standing by to see what comes down the Pike'popcorn and coke'
I hate cutting up factory wiring.

Pringle

03-03-2018, 10:48 AM

I know this is an older thread, but just wanted to say thanks to Jimmytee! I Just finished my install with NVX 4 channel amp, infinity Kappa 6.5 speakers, and J&L 6.5 sub. Very pleased with results and this thread made install a “breeze”!

Dirtstiff's F6B

03-09-2018, 10:04 PM

Jimmie,
Are you now running Hertz HSK Component Speakers?

Thanks

Jim

Jimmytee

03-09-2018, 10:12 PM

Yes, I am running the Hertz HSK component speakers in the stock locations and Herts HMX 6.5s in custom speaker pods I made.

Dirtstiff's F6B

03-09-2018, 11:22 PM

Did you get the tweeters to fit in the stock tweeter hole in the shelter?

Jimmytee

03-10-2018, 06:00 AM

The I have mine surface mounted over the original tweeter location. That is how I originally had the Polk Tweeters and I just did the same thing with the Hertz. I think the tweeters could go into the stock tweeter location, but would require you to remove the tweeters from their casing or housing without damging them . It's been done, I just didn't do it that way. Here is a shot. Yeah lots' of dust/dirt in this shot.
https://i.imgur.com/aqj58ri.jpg

F6Pilot

03-14-2018, 09:45 PM

I mounted the tweeters in the stock holes. Yes, you have to remove the grill from the tweeter very carefully.

49514952

Dirtstiff's F6B

03-16-2018, 08:26 PM

F6Pilot

03-16-2018, 09:17 PM

I may quiz you Pilot, on your tweeter transplant surgery.

Thanks

J

Glad to provide everything I have on butchering the housing and other intricacies.

Dirtstiff's F6B

03-16-2018, 10:24 PM

Well...there goes another 4 bills on the quest for the perfect MC speakers..Hertz HSK 130 5.25". Where is that idiot smiley emoji to insert here..

I may quiz you Pilot, on your tweeter transplant surgery.

Thanks

J

And another handful of Andrew Jackson's for Dynamat, gold plated connections, quality speaker wire and spacers.

Dirtstiff's F6B

03-17-2018, 04:51 PM

Jimmie or Pilot,
Could either measure the circumference - diameter of the HSK tweeter with the grill on or off, if it comes off?

I've removed the OEM tweeters; piece of cake, push on the tabs and they come out without any drama.

Trying to mentally fit the HSK tweeters before they arrive.

Thanks.

F6Pilot

03-17-2018, 05:21 PM

I believe can get you some measurements tomorrow

Dirtstiff's F6B

03-17-2018, 06:17 PM

OEM holes measure 1 3/8". Hertz spec says 25.mm which is an inch. I think they will snap right in.
Thanks for the measurement.4962

F6Pilot

03-17-2018, 07:24 PM

They will go in after you VERY VERY CAREFULLY cut the grills off. If you aren’t careful, you’ll wind up with the following, requiring an additional purchase.

You don’t want this....

4963

F6Pilot

03-17-2018, 07:27 PM

This is after grill removal, trimming down the housing, wrapping with heavy duty two sided tape, and pressing it into place.

4964

F6Pilot

03-18-2018, 02:02 PM

Ok, I got some dimensions on the tweeters. The stock tweeter is 1.41”, Hertz before grill removal is 1.49” but after removal is 1.42”.

Dirtstiff's F6B

03-18-2018, 06:06 PM

Thanks Pilot,
Looking like I'll have to figure out how to get the grills off the HT 20 tweeters, to get them in the OEM grills, from the back of the grill.
Jim

F6Pilot

03-18-2018, 06:53 PM

I will try to locate some additional pics to send your way. Check your PM.

Dirtstiff's F6B

03-24-2018, 05:46 PM

How do you guys have the crossover set?
+ normal or -

Thanks

Jimmytee

03-24-2018, 09:06 PM

How do you guys have the crossover set?
+ normal or -

Thanks

Normal on mine

Dirtstiff's F6B

03-24-2018, 09:13 PM

Thanks Jimmie.
This new site is useless for searching old facts.
Do you remember what the polarity is of the rear speaker wires?
Left channel -
Blue / Red
Orange

Right channel
White
Blue

Jimmytee

03-25-2018, 08:00 AM

Thanks Jimmie.
This new site is useless for searching old facts.
Do you remember what the polarity is of the rear speaker wires?
Left channel -
Blue / Red
Orange

Right channel
White
Blue

I don't remember off the top of my head. WOuld have to look at the schematic again. You could use a digital multimeter and play source material, noting which lead is attached to what wire. If the meter measures your DC voltage output as positive, you know ,by your meter leads , which one is positive and negative. I no longer us any of the factory wiring as my system is totally aftermarket now. The only thing stock is the handlebar controls.

As far as the crossover , I lefet mine normal. I can adjust individual frequecies through the head unit.

Dirtstiff's F6B

03-25-2018, 01:20 PM

Jimmie
I pulled my seat to refresh my memory.

Thanks for the input.

Thank you also, Pilot for your Hertz help.

Jim

velvethammer

05-20-2018, 11:07 AM

Any chance Jimmy can repost the attachments in an active format. ...This is a very important thread and I would love to see your process with pictures.

thanks

Dirtstiff's F6B

05-20-2018, 10:40 PM

I've since added the new Polk DB652 6.5" speakers to the front, a new Polk PAD 4000.4 Amp and Infinity 3 way 6x9s in the saddle bags.
I think I can finally say I've found a combination I like.
5271
5273

F6Pilot

05-21-2018, 09:13 PM

Hey Jim, how are those 6x9 working in the bags? Did you cut any ports in the bags?

Dirtstiff's F6B

05-26-2018, 10:20 AM

I added boom mats to the 6x9's which holds them in place and works as a speaker box for resonance.

With the bags open, the system sounds incredible.
Very clear at high volume - 15 is crazy loud and clear.
20-22 is deafening, yet still clean and clear.

Both the Polk and Infinity are designed for 125 -150 watts RMS each, so they love the amp.
And the 6x9 add a bit more bass and low frequency to balance the system.
They are also a 3 way with mid and high frequency tweeters, +/- 3 db.

I wired them so they can be un plugged and easily removed if we need the room.

To your question Pilot; no vents - ports cut yet.

I'm a little undecided about cutting into the bags.
I know that's what needs to happen to really hear the 6x9's going down the road.

I'm sleeping on port location, size, covers or if I mount them face against the wheel, face down on the floor.

A custom lid like Harley would be the ticket but I don't have that fab time right now.

For now, its fun to park at the local.. open up the bags and let em blast.
Jim

cdtessmer

07-07-2018, 11:39 PM

These speakers have sizable crossovers with them that required deciding where to put them. The stock speakers have small capacitor on the tweeter as a way to roll off the low frequencies and the woofer is just run full range. I chose to tuck the crossovers behind the windscreen in the fairing.

The next decision was to how to mount the tweeters. I've been corresponding with another guy who is doing a similar upgrade. That's how I know that the 6.5" speakers can be made to fit. cooldude He has mounted the tweeters where the stock tweeters are located. He uncased the tweeters as they come, and they fit. This had not even occurred to me when I mounted mine as the tweeters are too large to fit as they come. The tweeters come with two options for mounting. Flush mounting and surface mounting. To flush mount them using the items as they come from Polk Audio, would have required some irreversible modifications to the dash/grill area. I wasn't too keen on that, so I chose to surface mount the tweeters. I had to drill two small holes in each speaker grill screen. This was to accommodate the speaker wire and the mounting screw/bolt. They come out fine IMHO, but I may choose to mount them the way this other guy did. I'm planning on ordering some custom painted screens with the CVMA logo painted on them, and may choose to change the mounting at that time.
The advantage to the surface mounting is that the tweeters can be pivoted for aiming. Not a big deal, but it is a consideration that once they are mounted in the stock location, they

This brings us to the amplifier and it's hook up. This was the most challenging part of the install. I did not think or plan on the difficulties experienced, but my learning process may help others.

I chose a fairly new / unknown amplifier company named NVX. Their products seem to be mainly available through Sonic Electronix online. This is the amp I chose. I got it for Christmas. Remember theme

It has great reviews and has been bench tested to outperform the manufacturer's specifications. It is also very small/compact. The amplifier was not what made the install difficult. The difficulty came in getting an audio signal for the amplifier to amplify. On the onset , it seemed it should be a pretty straight forward deal. The amplifier has both RCA inputs and speaker level inputs for when RCAs are not present. Sooooo, I initially hooked up the amplifier using the speaker wires from the factory system. I ran them to the speaker level inputs and then ran speaker wire from the amp to the crossovers of each speaker channel. Voila right? NO. It sounded like crap. However, I could hook my phone directly into the amp and it's RCA inputs and it sounded great. So the sound through the factory system was awful. I would put it all back to stock before living with that. It sounded like the input of the new amp was being over driven. So I bought some Low to High impedance adapter ( Speaker level to RCA adapter). The one I chose is supposed to be rated to 50 watts. Same situation. Now I'm beginning to wonder or suspect that the OEM electronics just suck that much. I had too options or thoughts. One, I could purchase another adapter rated to an even higher wattage input. Or two , I could tap into the OEM wiring harness and hijack the pre out signals before they go to the factory amp. Let me digress for a moment.

There was a third option. That involved using the headset signal as a pre-amp signal to the amplifier. There is an adapter that will adapt the 5 pin din plug to an 1/8" stereo plug. The one could use another adapter to then adapt the 1/8" stereo plug to a couple of RCAs. I tried this out. Not with buying any adapters, but I tapped into the harness for the headset and soldered op a couple of RCAs. It worked great, and if someone didn't want to do the soldering, they could use the mentioned adapters. I didn't have the patience to wait for ordering the 5 pin din adapter. There are a couple of caveats to going this route that might be obvious. One, the headset button has to be engaged for the stereo to then work. Two, if someone wants to have their headset fuction normally without the speakers playing too, this won't work. Plus, I use the fading feature of the stereo with my final set up. There is no fading with the headset option. Here is the harness after I tapped into it.

What I did end up doing.

I chose to tap into the pre out signals. Now, at the time of doing this, I did not have the Honda Shop manual yet. I now have that. Got it from my dealer for $69. Pretty good deal considering the best I've seen the net was $10 more. The mechanic let me take some pictures of his manual and the wiring diagrams needed. He had to unwrap his manual as it was brand new. They are a very new dealer that opened up about 2 years ago I think . It's where I bought my F6B and they're just 2 miles or so down the road. cooldude I tried to get him to just give me his in exchange for the one I ordered, but he said he'd be in trouble if for some reason Honda were to find him without one on hand.. :icon_rolleyes:
I removed the tail end body work and removed the OEM amplifier. The amplifier resides in an enclosure by itself behind the rear wheel. I didn't have to remove the amplifier to tap into the signals, but my intention was to put the new amplifier in it's place. The audio signals that feed the amplifier come from the "Audio Unit" located under the passenger seat in a black enclosure. This would be equivalent to what would be called the head unit in car audio terms. The controls on the fairing left side are just that. Controls. I pulled out the amplifier and made the decision to cut the wiring harness in half. The amplifier has three bundles coming from the amp to a plug that plugs into the factory wiring harness. I cut the three bundles mid way and now I had the factory plug with the wires needed. If I ,for some reason, wanted to return the bike to stock, I will have to splice and solder all those wires back together. In those wires are the speaker wires for four speakers ( the bike is wired for all four speakers even though it only has the front speakers) , the wires for the pre out signals for all 4 channels and positive power and ground. I made up a harness, thinking I'd try to use all the factory wiring. This proved unsatisfactory and I ended up only using the pre out signals. Both the factory power leads and the factory speaker wiring degrade the sound substantially. Here is a pic of the harness i first made up.

Ultimately, the idea of putting the amp back where the OEM resided , was not going to work. Had I not just lost my patience, I may have been able to figure out a way to make it work, but I was back and forth whether that was where I really wanted it. The enclosure there has a drain for a reason, and I just was not sure how the new amp would survive. Did I mention it's behind the rear wheel underneath the rear fender? :icon_mrgreen: The issue was that the wiring harness I built was too long and required too much space and that the new amp had to sit vertically where the RCA jacks protruded above the plane of the enclosure leaving a hump that there was no room for. I could have got some right angle adapters for the RCAs and maybe resolved the issue by modifying my harness, but foooey. :banghead:

Here is a pic of the amp in
Have to split this up again.

Instead of cutting the three bundles of wires coming from the stock amplifier enclosure, I unpinned the wires from the grey connector and soldered the speaker wires to the pin terminals in order to preserve the factory wiring, then used heat shrink and electrical tape. I’ve hooked it up using the stock amplifier with my aftermarket amp and without, and i’ve tried a line input converter, etc, and it still doesn’t sound good turned up. I’ve adjusted the gains properly with and without a multimeter. I have installed 140w Sony 6.5 marine speakers in the dash, 5.25 Polk components in the lowers and put the new tweeters where the stock ones were located. I just ordered Polk 652’s for the dash to see if that will help, but it’s hard to fix a trash signal without a processor. Just wish the stock receiver didn’t sound so horrible when listening to fm radio. I connected a JL Audio bluetooth module to the aux in connector and the stereo sounds great when using my phone, but when I put it back on fm radio, the amp is horribly underdriven. I’m sure it has something to do with the auto volume control, even when it’s off, and I wish there wasn’t such a huge difference in volume between the fm input and bluetooth input. I want to put an aftermarket receiver in it to replace the junky factory one but don’t know where I’d mount it and still keep my hazard switch, etc. Honda really boned us on this audio system.

cdtessmer

07-19-2018, 10:47 PM

Here is more detail. I spent a fair amount of time deciding on which components to upgrade my stereo system on the F6B. My Valkyrie rocks and I wanted as good or better on the F6B. The sound system on the F6B is not actually all that bad stock. After 2006, Honda upgraded the audio in the Gold Wing line with more power and larger component speakers. Getting on my F6B after riding my Valkyrie though, it was pretty obvious where some upgrades were going to come. My reasons for upgrading the audio have as much to do with pure fun as it does with necessity . :icon_rolleyes:

The speaker in the F6B and Gold Wing line are an odd size. I wanted to put 6.5" speaker in, but didn't think they would fit so I chose a set of 5.25" component speakers. Since then, others have been successful in installing 6.5" speakers by trimming down the frame on the speakers to make them fit. I may or may not upgrade to 6.5" in the future, but I'm pretty content at the moment. Well, my wallet is pretty content. :icon_cool: After reading reviews, and scanning many specifications , I chose the Polk Audio MM series 5.25" components. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17949_Polk-Audio-MM5251.html
We got them for $189 on Amazon. Birthday present. There is a theme here. Wait for it. :icon_mrgreen:

Here are the speakers.
I chose these speakers for their low frequency extension. They are rated down to 50 hz. I also chose them because of their reviews and their 2.7 ohm impedance.
1064410645

Here is a comparison of the woofers.
Stock speaker on the right.

10643
The 5.25" speakers are not a bolt on fit. They required some adaptation. I accomplished this with the use of some flat pieces of ABS plastic that I cut into shape as adapter plates.

Here is one of the speakers mounted.

10646

I have to split this up as there is a limit on photos per post.

Hey Jimmy, I’ve followed your posts and decided to dive in head first. I bought a Nemesis Audio micro 500w 4 channel amp, Polk Audio 5.25” component speakers for the lower dash and replaced the factory tweeters with the Polks by hot gluing them into the stock locations. I bought a set of 6.5” Sony 140w coaxial marine speakers which I trimmed the outside rim off of to fit in the dash. Had to use self tapping screws but it works. Fit right in. They look cool because they’re white like my bike but I just bought a set of Polk 652’s to replace them. I also dove in further and bought the same JLAudio sub enclosure you did and a different amp. It’s a Power Acoustik 2500w 5 channel amp. I got the Frogzskins and im all ready to add the thump, just really hot here right now. Anyway, between you and others, I’ve learned a lot. Thanks man.

Jimmytee

07-21-2018, 08:05 AM

Hey Jimmy, I’ve followed your posts and decided to dive in head first. I bought a Nemesis Audio micro 500w 4 channel amp, Polk Audio 5.25” component speakers for the lower dash and replaced the factory tweeters with the Polks by hot gluing them into the stock locations. I bought a set of 6.5” Sony 140w coaxial marine speakers which I trimmed the outside rim off of to fit in the dash. Had to use self tapping screws but it works. Fit right in. They look cool because they’re white like my bike but I just bought a set of Polk 652’s to replace them. I also dove in further and bought the same JLAudio sub enclosure you did and a different amp. It’s a Power Acoustik 2500w 5 channel amp. I got the Frogzskins and im all ready to add the thump, just really hot here right now. Anyway, between you and others, I’ve learned a lot. Thanks man.

i have not been on here very frequently as of late. My summers are extremely busy. I originally tapped the pre outs from the OEM "Audio Unit". That , of course , is before the factory amp. I got good volume and it sounded pretty darn good. I could never get any satisfactory result trying to use the speaker level outputs of the factory amplifier.

All was good , and then one day my Audio Unit just quit. Don't know, One day ot was fine, the next day just a slight static noise if you turned it up. My whole system is aftermarket now, with Rockford Fosgate filling in the head unit/processor duties, a JL Audio 5 channel amplifier, Hertz 5.25 component speakers in the factory location and Hertz 6.5" coaxials in the lowers. And of course a JL Audio sub. I'm pretty happy with my system. It rocks and is way louder than I need it to be while riding 80 plus mph . Plus I have usable bass that I can feel and hear. I'm at 50 k miles. Will probably be riding this bike for awhile yet. Actually was seriously in the market for a new bike a coupe months ago, with the new Wing orBMW K1600 in my crosshairs. Before I got the chance to ride the DCT, I decided I'd ride mine for while longer and bought a new truck instead. Couple weeks ago, I got a chance to ride the DCT and had that happened a couple months ago, I'd probably be riding one now. Game changer. but I digress. :icon_lol: