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sabre85
01-22-2015, 07:08 PM
Picked up my 6 in December, a left over 13 red standard, and have only been able to put about 50 miles in so far. I’m a peg scrapper at heart, although I’ve never gotten a knee down. Nothing squidly here. On the street I’m quick enough to keep all my track day junky riding buddies interested when they are following me thru the mountains. Been riding the Smokies and the Gap since before it was the “Dragons Tail.” I’m coming off a 98 Valkyrie standard. (Never thought I’d say this out loud, but I think I do miss the chrome.) I’ve got two VFR’s (a 98 and a 2000) and a 250 ninja for the girlfriend in the stable now. Previously owned 3 V-65 Sabres, a GPZ 550, and started out 35 yrs ago on a little 305 kawi CSR. I picked up the valky because I wanted a big comfy scoot that I could ride every day and would still hold it’s own in the curves. From the first picture I saw of the 6 I wanted one, and I’ve chased enough Wings through the mountains to know what it is capable of.

I’ve been lurking around here on the board for a few weeks and have really learned a lot about what I think I may want to do as far as mods, but I need some seat time to get the wish list sorted. Riding season here in Cincy won’t be for a few months. Sorry I got so wordy, now the questions:

What drags after the pegs? And how deep into the pegs before things start to get out of hand? We all know that being smooth with the inputs and picking a good line early is the best way to be quick, especially with something this big and heavy. The Valk was fine on the pegs for a bit, but the next thing down was a hard, seat cover enema inducing, trip across the double yellow. Only got there once and learned what the limit was. The real question is how much cushion is left after the pegs touch? Or is that a line I don’t want to ever get to?

And BTW I’m pretty sure the red ones are faster---could Ducati and Ferrari been wrong all this time!

Phantom
01-22-2015, 07:27 PM
We lost a F6B in 2013 at the Dragon. Too fast and too much of a lean, down he went on a turn (New F6B Totaled).
I understand that the famous "Yellow Wolf" recently lost his Goldwing on a turn also.
When the pegs are scrapping ... I believe you are at 95% of maximum lean (don't hold me to it)
Next part to touch the ground is your from crash bar which lifts your front tire off the asphalt (say a prayer)
Next to touch is your rear crash bar.

Some have added Platinum pucks under their pegs, they shoot a trail of sparks for added effect.

You are not alone, many of us are Chromaholics.

Steve 0080
01-22-2015, 07:51 PM
Lean angle is not the issue... You can pick a better line and be faster... there are a few here that can give you an example at the rally if you want to see it done !!! Yes Yellow Wolf threw his in the bushes and has not been heard from since....

Hornblower
01-22-2015, 07:55 PM
We lost a F6B in 2013 at the Dragon. Too fast and too much of a lean, down he went on a turn (New F6B Totaled).
I understand that the famous "Yellow Wolf" recently lost his Goldwing on a turn also.
When the pegs are scrapping ... I believe you are at 95% of maximum lean (don't hold me to it)
Next part to touch the ground is your from crash bar which lifts your front tire off the asphalt (say a prayer)
Next to touch is your rear crash bar.

Some have added Platinum pucks under their pegs, they shoot a trail of sparks for added effect.

You are not alone, many of us are Chromaholics.

Phantom...I find the need to correct a couple of points on this. First, the pucks are titanium, not platinum :yikes:. And second, the peg pucks touch down to serve only as an indicator of where you are. You have a fair amount of relatively safe lean angle remaining. In my case, the next thing to touch down are the pipes, somewhere around the heat shield area. Now, after that, well, it gets pretty dicey but I would say it probably is the crash bars as you have pointed out. The last fast ride I took with a couple of Yellow Wolf's buddies, I never got past my pipes. One of those days was in the rain and I did fine except for one "pucker" moment when I hit wet leaves and the back stepped out a foot or so. The "6" handles surprisingly well for a large bike.

Deer Slayer
01-22-2015, 08:12 PM
Belly pan then mufflers then eng guard. If you have berthing pegs on your engine guard it will catch an you will be sliding in to the promised land. The ideal we strive for is to set up properly for the curve and not drag at all. I ain't mastered it at all. "batsmiley" Good luck.:cheers:

Phantom
01-22-2015, 08:14 PM
Phantom...I find the need to correct a couple of points on this. First, the pucks are titanium, not platinum :yikes:. And second, the peg pucks touch down to serve only as an indicator of where you are. You have a fair amount of relatively safe lean angle remaining. In my case, the next thing to touch down are the pipes, somewhere around the heat shield area. Now, after that, well, it gets pretty dicey but I would say it probably is the crash bars as you have pointed out. The last fast ride I took with a couple of Yellow Wolf's buddies, I never got past my pipes. One of those days was in the rain and I did fine except for one "pucker" moment when I hit wet leaves and the back stepped out a foot or so. The "6" handles surprisingly well for a large bike.

Ken, Thank You for correcting me.
Now that you've mentioned it, yes you are correct .... I also have scrapped my exhaust shields not once but twice (forgot about those incidents :icon_redface: call it a brain fart) replaced the scraped OEM set with a chrome set 4 years ago and scraped the heck out of the chrome set last time we were in Franklin. Just went out to the garage and YUP scratches are still there :shock:.

I also drag my pegs, haven't had to replace the acorn nuts yet. But I just don't push the bike too much past the initial contact with the pavement. I agree these bikes handle very well, but my crotch rocket racing days are behind me and leaning over to the point where it may require a clean pair of underwear just isn't appealing to me anymore. :icon_wink: Thanks again for the correction. Ride safe

Jimmytee
01-22-2015, 09:11 PM
Bought my 6 in July 14, now have 5600 miles or so. Already see that new pegs are needing to be ordered soon.:icon_rolleyes: Need to put the pucks on this bike. Cuts down on buying pegs.:icon_wink:

Limoles
01-22-2015, 09:58 PM
In past I've try this many times on my previous sport bikes . Never crashed any of them , but found is not necessary to cross the line , or unnecessarily spent money for repairs . I love my B so much and don't need to create any harm on her . Beside that , I spare my legs for dancing and walking on the beach .

Old Ryder
01-22-2015, 10:06 PM
Reading along and thinking---- Sometimes it is nice being old! I thought a lot about the B and what I could/would do once I got it. Never was one of those thoughts about dragging the pegs.

Still can't get the music too loud though. :icon_cool:

bertrider
01-22-2015, 10:09 PM
Agree with Deer Slayer. Pegs, then the belly pan. When the front engine guard scrapes chances are so will your body somewhere.

sabre85
01-22-2015, 10:15 PM
Slayer and Hornblower, that was what I was looking for. Been dancing with the Valk for six years, and ten on the big sabres (UJM's, not the customs). Didn't want to find out the hard way what was next. I've gotten the impression from the motorcycle mags that there is not too much shaft jaking with the wings, the sabre was pretty bad with that. Learned to trail the rear brake a bit on entrance and decel with the sabre which helped with the squatt, even through acceleration on exit which kept her from standing up and running wide. When you pushed the Valk she could get a little flexy in the frame. Always loved strafiing some gixr mounted poser on the Valk.

bobbyf6b
01-23-2015, 08:52 AM
If you haven't done it yet, crank up your rear suspension to at least halfway. I was dragging way too much before I did that. Now I don't drag much at all, unless I'm trying. :icon_mrgreen:

Michael_A
01-23-2015, 09:37 AM
One thing I have noticed on mine, and my previous 09 GW, is that these things don't give many "signals" that you are exceeding the envelope. They happily lean down further until all sorts of bits are dragging, and it kinda took me by surprise. I ride it like I'd drive an older Porsche 911; slow in, fast out and be smooth!

shooter
01-23-2015, 09:47 AM
Saber my son lives in Amelia and I haul a bike out there several times a year. We'll have to get together. We go over into KY and ride amish country and usually end up down in Rabbit Hash to take a break and enjoy a cold beverage. Stay off that front crash bar.

Hornblower
01-23-2015, 11:37 AM
Draggin' belly pan...well, maybe. It really depends on the belly pan. Some pans mount further in like the Macgyver I have on now and it isn't nearly as susceptible to dragging. It's also a bit more robust than some of the other pans.

As far as taking better lines to prevent dragging of hard parts...that's only true to a point. Dragging is inevitably related to speed and corner angle. Also, as someone mentioned earlier, jacking up the rear suspension with preload is necessary for the more aggressive riders. In fact, some of the really aggressive riders install a longer custom-made rear shock clevis to raise it up even further.

Sorcerer
01-23-2015, 06:28 PM
Push Mountain Road in Arkansas. Foot peg dragging then a NEW scraping sound, wonder what that is. Then I could feel the front end starting to unload. On first inspection, just a heat shield. Next day I noticed what I thought was a mud spot. Nope, rust spot on right crash bar. I had shifted over on the seat on corner entry, not monkey style but a cheek. Since then I added a Show Chrome belly pan that I have shined up the edges on. Was going to touch up both heat shields but I keep shining them back up. I did find that the front section of the belly was not letting the pan to fully go up all the way. Trimmed 1/2" off each side.

Jimmytee
01-23-2015, 06:37 PM
Saber my son lives in Amelia and I haul a bike out there several times a year. We'll have to get together. We go over into KY and ride amish country and usually end up down in Rabbit Hash to take a break and enjoy a cold beverage. Stay off that front crash bar.

Give me a hollar when you're this way.:yes:

sabre85
01-23-2015, 09:54 PM
Shooter, I grew up in Amelia, lived there off and on till I got hitched to a west side girl. Lost the girl, kept the house, live in Delhi now.

grendl
01-24-2015, 12:12 PM
Right now I have my beloved F6B and my beloved CBR1000F. Two very different bikes that require and are built to do different things.My CBR is my need for speed baby. Footpegs and carriage high greater len angle possible and much higher top end.
I dont have to explain the virtues of my 'B'.
It will take curves surprisingly well at good speed and my 'chicken strips' have gotten narrower in the one season I have had it.I was surprised when I noticed how far I was leaning this bike.When I first got it I was touching my toe to the ground,using the riding style I was used to on the CBR with my toes down. Changed that after scaping my boots.
I live in Colorado and get plenty practice in the mountains.
All said on either bike when the pegs touch,my brain takes over and reminds me that I dont want to know what will scrape next. I am going too fast and while that sounds exiting,losing the bike is not on my list of things to do.
IMHO when the pegs scrape,next is something hard that will upset the bike...or something soft like my @ss -Chill boy racer:yikes:

Kurare79
01-25-2015, 06:28 AM
All said on either bike when the pegs touch,my brain takes over and reminds me that I dont want to know what will scrape next.
+1 :yes:

choptop
01-25-2015, 07:32 AM
Reading along and thinking---- Sometimes it is nice being old! I thought a lot about the B and what I could/would do once I got it. Never was one of those thoughts about dragging the pegs.

Still can't get the music too loud though. :icon_cool:

:yes::yes:

Big Dawg
01-26-2015, 08:46 AM
Draggin' belly pan...well, maybe. It really depends on the belly pan. Some pans mount further in like the Macgyver I have on now and it isn't nearly as susceptible to dragging. It's also a bit more robust than some of the other pans.

As far as taking better lines to prevent dragging of hard parts...that's only true to a point. Dragging is inevitably related to speed and corner angle. Also, as someone mentioned earlier, jacking up the rear suspension with preload is necessary for the more aggressive riders. In fact, some of the really aggressive riders install a longer custom-made rear shock clevis to raise it up even further.
Ken, the reason that you don't hit the belly pan or the exhaust shields is because you have the Traxxion Dynamics Forks that I installed in your bike! The stock forks are sprung way to soft for spirited riding, IMHO. Also, if you run the rear suspension all the way to the top, you shouldn't hit the pipes. If you do, then it might be time for a better spring on the rear shock too.


Another correction, The F6 that crashed was on Moonshiner 28, not the Dragon.

Phantom
01-26-2015, 09:38 AM
The F6 that crashed was on Moonshiner 28, not the Dragon.

.notworthy.

Thanks Jimmy, I couldn't remember the name of the road. I knew that we were in the vicinity of the Dragon.

Hornblower
01-26-2015, 09:59 AM
Ken, the reason that you don't hit the belly pan or the exhaust shields is because you have the Traxxion Dynamics Forks that I installed in your bike! The stock forks are sprung way to soft for spirited riding, IMHO. Also, if you run the rear suspension all the way to the top, you shouldn't hit the pipes. If you do, then it might be time for a better spring on the rear shock too.


Right, Big Dawg :yes: The Traxxion Dynamics forks are considerably stiffer than stock. The stock rear is still fairly soft however, even with preload dialed up, so that is why I'm still dragging quite a bit. That said, my Macgyver belly pan doesn't seem to be a problem. It goes in tighter than some other belly pans and that's especially true when you install them using a floor jack like I did 'all/right'.

Big Dawg
01-26-2015, 10:41 AM
Right, Big Dawg :yes: The Traxxion Dynamics forks are considerably stiffer than stock. The stock rear is still fairly soft however, even with preload dialed up, so that is why I'm still dragging quite a bit. That said, my Macgyver belly pan doesn't seem to be a problem. It goes in tighter than some other belly pans and that's especially true when you install them using a floor jack like I did 'all/right'.
Ken, for those who like to ride the F6 and the Wings like we do, I make a rear shock clevis that is a 1/4" longer than stock so it raises the bike up a little higher than stock. I believe the rear spring on the F6 is way too soft (the Wing too) and should be a stronger if you like to ride the twisties at a spirited pace. On my bike, I have a Penski rear shock with a stronger spring and a longer shock clevis. The front frorks have AK-20 kits in them, 1.1 KG springs, fork brace and the fork tubes are pushed dowm 10mm in the triple trees. The result is much greater ground clearance and I had to make the kickstand an inch longer. It almost handles like a sport bike now.

http://hondaf6b.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=517&d=1370373807

A common misconception, is that slightly stiffer springs make the ride harsher, not true, it mearly makes the bike ride higher in the suspension instead of bouncing off the botton of the travel like a stock bike.

Hornblower
01-26-2015, 01:14 PM
I do LOVE those titanium peg pucks! Throw some of that fire, Big Dawg :clap2:

Big Dawg
01-26-2015, 03:11 PM
Bought my 6 in July 14, now have 5600 miles or so. Already see that new pegs are needing to be ordered soon.:icon_rolleyes: Need to put the pucks on this bike. Cuts down on buying pegs.:icon_wink:


Check out this web site for the best peg savers.

They are offered in steel, aluminum, and titanium. Rumor has it; if you have as much money as Phantom, you can special order them in Platinum!:moon:


http://www.pepsx.com/products.html

Hornblower
01-26-2015, 04:06 PM
Yep, Big Dawg introduced these to me last year and I've been showering sparks ever since (but not quite as much as Big Dawg) :yikes:. BTW, if you like the sparks idea, be sure to order them in titanium, or, if you're flush, platinum like Phantom :poke:

racer
01-26-2015, 05:23 PM
I ride with harley guys. Don't need to drag a peg to stay way ahead of them. :yes:

edgeman55
01-26-2015, 08:15 PM
I ride with harley guys. Don't need to drag a peg to stay way ahead of them. :yes:

Thats funny I too ride with some Harley riders but I like to stay ahead of them so I don't have to hear all that loud exhaust!

racer
01-27-2015, 04:56 PM
Thats funny I too ride with some Harley riders but I like to stay ahead of them so I don't have to hear all that loud exhaust!

Yup. having a hotrod can have its perks! :yes:

opas ride
01-27-2015, 05:12 PM
Yup. having a hotrod can have its perks! :yes:

Also glad I ride an F6B so I can get ahead of those Harley's that make that horrible "nauseous noise" whose riders think it makes their bikes go faster!!

Sorcerer
01-27-2015, 07:43 PM
Thats funny I too ride with some Harley riders but I like to stay ahead of them so I don't have to hear all that loud exhaust!

You ever think you mite be there designated decoy? 👮

ChiSteve
05-28-2015, 12:01 PM
1421114212

Noticed these scrapes on my engine gaurds the other day and now I'm spooked :yikes: I never felt these guys touching down.

I have never had the bike down and tires changes were done by dealer.

I did have 15k on my front tire before swapping it out. Could it have been worn down to the point that I lost ground clearance?

Wmorgan2k
05-29-2015, 12:48 AM
For me personally I stay away from dragging anything, if I am I picked a bad line or didn't have enough throttle control. You can fly through the corners and not drag a thing if you take the right line and the right throttle control. If I start dragging pegs I'm going to fast in my opinion. I have nothing to prove though and I can still get down with some very spirited riding. Anything more I'll take it to the track public roads offer to many dangers to be riding 9/10th's, vehicles cross the center on my all the time when your in full lean and nowhere to go it's disastrous.

Leave yourself some safety margin, if you have to readjust your line for some idiot you have the room to do so, it happens so much up there, especially the Harley riders those guys seem to always be over cooking it and dragging everything and usually end up in my lane.

I have Traxxion on my Wing and considering it for the F6B, it's awesome and I can't say enough good things about it. It handles like a sport bike now and I can get through faster on that then on my B.

Everyone has a different motto for how they ride that's just what I keep mine to, keep the hard parts off the pavement and ride within that and you'll be just fine. That's just me though

Big Dawg
05-29-2015, 07:51 AM
For me personally I stay away from dragging anything, if I am I picked a bad line or didn't have enough throttle control. You can fly through the corners and not drag a thing if you take the right line and the right throttle control. If I start dragging pegs I'm going to fast in my opinion. I have nothing to prove though and I can still get down with some very spirited riding. Anything more I'll take it to the track public roads offer to many dangers to be riding 9/10th's, vehicles cross the center on my all the time when your in full lean and nowhere to go it's disastrous.

Leave yourself some safety margin, if you have to readjust your line for some idiot you have the room to do so, it happens so much up there, especially the Harley riders those guys seem to always be over cooking it and dragging everything and usually end up in my lane.

I have Traxxion on my Wing and considering it for the F6B, it's awesome and I can't say enough good things about it. It handles like a sport bike now and I can get through faster on that then on my B.

Everyone has a different motto for how they ride that's just what I keep mine to, keep the hard parts off the pavement and ride within that and you'll be just fine. That's just me though

We understand that part of your statement; "That's just me though". A lot of us ride other bikes with a lot more lean angle such as my Kawasaki Concours and a Ninja 1000. Both of those bikes are able to get to 50 degrees of lean angle, the Ninja 1000 will go even more than 50 degrees. After riding one of those and then jumping back on the wing, I tend to drag the pegs everywhere. Also, I do not consider the foot pegs on the wing to be hard parts since they are spring loaded. The wing will lean over about 5 degrees more, once the pegs start to touch down. Hard parts are the crash bars and the pipes. Once they start touching down then you have gone as far as you can go. To quote a friend of mine, the Trialsman; "it's only and old man's bike if you ride it like one"

Fla_rider
05-29-2015, 09:07 AM
Funny I thought the thread said "Question for the fast guys?"

All you with other then red bikes shouldn't be repling! :icon_mrgreen::stirthepot:

Big Dawg
05-29-2015, 09:09 AM
Funny I thought the thread said "Question for the fast guys?"

All you with other then red bikes shouldn't be repling! :icon_mrgreen::stirthepot:


Come follow my Blue one..............

shooter
05-29-2015, 09:21 AM
The black ones are so fast they aren't even in the same zip code. That's why the red ones think they are fast.

Big Dawg
05-29-2015, 09:22 AM
The black ones are so fast they aren't even in the same zip code. That's why the red ones think they are fast.

Now this one is really fast........
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=297370&d=1419777208

Wmorgan2k
05-29-2015, 10:45 AM
We understand that part of your statement; "That's just me though". A lot of us ride other bikes with a lot more lean angle such as my Kawasaki Concours and a Ninja 1000. Both of those bikes are able to get to 50 degrees of lean angle, the Ninja 1000 will go even more than 50 degrees. After riding one of those and then jumping back on the wing, I tend to drag the pegs everywhere. Also, I do not consider the foot pegs on the wing to be hard parts since they are spring loaded. The wing will lean over about 5 degrees more, once the pegs start to touch down. Hard parts are the crash bars and the pipes. Once they start touching down then you have gone as far as you can go. To quote a friend of mine, the Trialsman; "it's only and old man's bike if you ride it like one"

The problem with statements like this (again my opinion) is that most don't realize just how little 5 degrees actually is, that's all you get before the crash bars touch down and unless your lucky and your tires are hot and sun and moon align for you, your taking a little slide down the asphalt at probably a much faster speed than you wanted. That peg is spring loaded and it does fold in completely but only after you've smacked the crash bar.

Ride how you want I'm not saying it's right or wrong it's your life and your machine do as wish I'm just offering a bit more sane of a suggestion for going fast besides accepting that your going to drag parts, and yes the pegs are hard just because they are on a spring doesn't make them any less soft, it just means they move a little easier.

If you actually take the time to get the best line through a corner you can do it very very fast, with better precision and lets parts draggin' and more room for the "oh shit" moments that happen on the open road.

When someone crosses the centerline on you having just 5 degrees of latitude to tighten up when you need to isn't exactly a "wide" margin of error.

shooter
05-29-2015, 10:59 AM
Now this one is really fast........
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=297370&d=1419777208

Don't look so fast to me. All that friction is slowing it down.

shooter
05-29-2015, 11:05 AM
The problem with statements like this (again my opinion) is that most don't realize just how little 5 degrees actually is, that's all you get before the crash bars touch down and unless your lucky and your tires are hot and sun and moon align for you, your taking a little slide down the asphalt at probably a much faster speed than you wanted. That peg is spring loaded and it does fold in completely but only after you've smacked the crash bar.

Ride how you want I'm not saying it's right or wrong it's your life and your machine do as wish I'm just offering a bit more sane of a suggestion for going fast besides accepting that your going to drag parts, and yes the pegs are hard just because they are on a spring doesn't make them any less soft, it just means they move a little easier.

If you actually take the time to get the best line through a corner you can do it very very fast, with better precision and lets parts draggin' and more room for the "oh shit" moments that happen on the open road.

When someone crosses the centerline on you having just 5 degrees of latitude to tighten up when you need to isn't exactly a "wide" margin of error.

Morgan you take yourself to seriously. For some of us on here the bike is a form of stress relief. Riding fast is part of that relief. Fast can be safe and I think most of the guys are. I ride hard but in certain areas. I appreciate your concern for your fellow man , I really do. Sometimes I just have to turn it loose. Like I said , when executed properly its not unsafe.

Big Dawg
05-29-2015, 11:08 AM
The problem with statements like this (again my opinion) is that most don't realize just how little 5 degrees actually is, that's all you get before the crash bars touch down and unless your lucky and your tires are hot and sun and moon align for you, your taking a little slide down the asphalt at probably a much faster speed than you wanted. That peg is spring loaded and it does fold in completely but only after you've smacked the crash bar.

Ride how you want I'm not saying it's right or wrong it's your life and your machine do as wish I'm just offering a bit more sane of a suggestion for going fast besides accepting that your going to drag parts, and yes the pegs are hard just because they are on a spring doesn't make them any less soft, it just means they move a little easier.

If you actually take the time to get the best line through a corner you can do it very very fast, with better precision and lets parts draggin' and more room for the "oh shit" moments that happen on the open road.

When someone crosses the centerline on you having just 5 degrees of latitude to tighten up when you need to isn't exactly a "wide" margin of error.

I never said that I ride like that all the time. On occasion, I push the limits of the bike but my comfort level is probably a lot higher than most in the mountains. I have forty years of experiece riding the twisties. I make no claim to be the fastest but I do run with some extremely fast wingers from time to time. I spent a few years road racing motorcycles and I know how to pick the fastest lines throught the corners. If you and another rider take the same line through the corner and you are at 35 degrees of lean and they are at 40 degrees, I promise you will be a lot slower than they are. It is simply the laws of physics at work. I also know and understand my comfort zone and the limits of the machinery that I ride. Like I always say, " Ride your ride" and don't tell me how to ride mine.

Wmorgan2k
05-29-2015, 11:32 AM
Same advice I give everyone, ride your own ride. I've been riding 30yrs and did my time road racing as well and have no problem going fast. I rode my Victory Vision 2 up and ended up having most of my friends on Concurs 14's playing catch up.

Also your statement about lean angle vs speed isnt exactly true. It also depends on how much your willing to slide your arse off the bike to decrease the amount of lean angle to counter act the centrifugal force. So technically if i was willing to shift body position off the bike at 35 degrees and you were sitting bolt up right at 40 degrees I could actually be going faster than you in a given situation, using less lean angle and probably (maybe) not actually dragging any parts...

But hey you ride yours, I'll ride mine and this forum is for our opinions but I try to at least be factual and give another side to what tends to be an age old story that in many cases ends with bad advice. Some try to give a list of parts that will drag and in someway the OP is supposed to now discern the sounds of the different dragging parts to determine if he's going to crash or not (this to me just doesn't sound like good advice) or I'm just offering either A: slow down a little and don't drag your parts or be learn how to be fast by using body position, throttle control and your brain vs brute force of dragging your $25,000 motorcycle all over the asphalt.

Again just my opinion, the OP asked I gave it... That's why were all here...

Fla_rider
05-29-2015, 12:03 PM
Mostly, I don't ride fast. I prefer to look at the sceanery and admire gods creations, especially if I've never been on that mountain before! It's not about how fast I can get there, it's about the ride to there that makes the difference.14253

ChiSteve
05-29-2015, 02:48 PM
The problem with statements like this (again my opinion) is that most don't realize just how little 5 degrees actually is, that's all you get before the crash bars touch down and unless your lucky and your tires are hot and sun and moon align for you, your taking a little slide down the asphalt at probably a much faster speed than you wanted. That peg is spring loaded and it does fold in completely but only after you've smacked the crash bar.

Ride how you want I'm not saying it's right or wrong it's your life and your machine do as wish I'm just offering a bit more sane of a suggestion for going fast besides accepting that your going to drag parts, and yes the pegs are hard just because they are on a spring doesn't make them any less soft, it just means they move a little easier.

If you actually take the time to get the best line through a corner you can do it very very fast, with better precision and lets parts draggin' and more room for the "oh shit" moments that happen on the open road.

When someone crosses the centerline on you having just 5 degrees of latitude to tighten up when you need to isn't exactly a "wide" margin of error.


According to you I should be playing the lotto? This is both sides. Real pictures here guys not bullshit theories or advice. You CAN drag engine guards. Just depends how good you are.

30573058

Wmorgan2k
05-29-2015, 05:07 PM
According to you I should be playing the lotto? This is both sides. Real pictures here guys not bullshit theories or advice. You CAN drag engine guards. Just depends how good you are.

1426014261

Cause that's safe... No one said you can't just said it's not really a good idea to be dragging hard parts, while you may be all proud of it, yes your lucky, any more pressure on those bars and the front tire lifts and your off into the weeds or worse off the side of a mountain. It's simple physics, there is no give in that area you lean on it to hard and the tire will give not the bar. Riding 10/10ths on the street just isn't wise and recommended to someone they can or should is simply foolish. That's how folks get hurt...

sabre85
05-29-2015, 11:07 PM
Wow, you boys can get really worked up!!! Originally posted the question before I had any miles on the 6 and was looking for some answers from you fellas who have been riding 6's for a while. Now that I have a couple of K on the bike and a hundred or so in the mountains I have found her limits. The 6 is very capable, but still a big heavy bike that requires an experienced hand and head to be ridden quickly. My 6 is never gonna handle like my VFR but it is closer than any thing that big has a right too!!! The VFR is very well sorted out of the box but after I put the Ohlins toys on, it went to a whole new level. Lookin forward to upgrading the suspension on the 6 to see how much better it get!!

I rode nearly 800 miles in the mountains last week and didn't put a wheel wrong the whole time. For me there is nothing like riding in that 'zone' with nothing but the next corner on my mind, then sittin around at the end of the day talking about riding.

Ericb445
05-29-2015, 11:25 PM
My pegs are ground down and I hit the left front crash bar once,,thats a feeling you don't want to replicate.
My lower side cowls are scratched up from twisty roads that have high crowns.
I am getting faster and learning how to pick better lines and I'm not scraping as much these days.

srt8-in-largo
05-30-2015, 12:11 AM
I never said that I ride like that all the time. On occasion, I push the limits of the bike but my comfort level is probably a lot higher than most in the mountains. I have forty years of experiece riding the twisties. I make no claim to be the fastest but I do run with some extremely fast wingers from time to time. I spent a few years road racing motorcycles and I know how to pick the fastest lines throught the corners. If you and another rider take the same line through the corner and you are at 35 degrees of lean and they are at 40 degrees, I promise you will be a lot slower than they are. It is simply the laws of physics at work. I also know and understand my comfort zone and the limits of the machinery that I ride. Like I always say, " Ride your ride" and don't tell me how to ride mine.

What laws of physics? More lean means less downward force on the tires, which means less friction and traction no?

Keith Code has some interesting comments on the subject; he's in the camp that says more lean is not necessarily faster.




According to you I should be playing the lotto? This is both sides. Real pictures here guys not bullshit theories or advice. You CAN drag engine guards. Just depends how good you are.


Nothing like patting yourself on the back eh

:crackup:

lloydmoore1
05-30-2015, 05:53 AM
I jam just dragging my arse out of bed.Having a Java and reading this...always interesting. Never a dull moment. Everyone enjoy the wknd.

Hornblower
05-30-2015, 06:43 AM
I'm just offering either A: slow down a little and don't drag your parts or be learn how to be fast by using body position, throttle control and your brain vs brute force of dragging your $25,000 motorcycle all over the asphalt.

I'm sorry but I just have to call :bs: on this. Of course, taking good lines and using body position are factors but ultimately whether or not you drag hard parts on a Gold Wing is based on speed and turn radius. If you go fast enough, you will drag hard parts in the twisties on this bike, regardless of your skill level or technique. In fact, the very fastest Wing riders have added suspension components to improve the clearance. And speaking of skill, I know of no better big bike rider than Big Dawg and, whether you realize it or not, you have come across in a chiding manner to one who, I'm confident, can ride circles around you. So, go ahead and talk the talk but I ain't buying what you're selling!

Steve 0080
05-30-2015, 09:27 AM
'popcorn and coke'

Jimmytee
05-30-2015, 10:04 AM
I practice proper riding techniques and which include proper throttle control, proper line choosing in a turn and countersteering etc...Been practicing these techniques since I started riding on the street at age 16. It is true that with proper technique you can get through a corner faster and at reduced lean angles, but if you're riding fast enough, you're going to come to a point where your pegs and parts are going to touch down, plain and simple.

shooter
05-30-2015, 03:37 PM
I practice proper riding techniques and which include proper throttle control, proper line choosing in a turn and countersteering etc...Been practicing these techniques since I started riding on the street at age 16. It is true that with proper technique you can get through a corner faster and at reduced lean angles, but if you're riding fast enough, you're going to come to a point where your pegs and parts are going to touch down, plain and simple.
And its just that simple ladies and gents. Jimmy hit the nail on the head. You ride it hard enough you're gonna scratch it. I don't care what you think you know.

edgeman55
05-30-2015, 06:47 PM
'popcorn and coke'

You will need two bags!

ChiSteve
05-31-2015, 02:06 PM
You guys must be talking about leaning flat over in a long sweeper.

My scuffs are from pivoting on the front wheel 90% of the bikes weight on the front tire cornering.

I have yet to scrape exhaust or anything aft of the pegs. You guys should try sitting as far forward on the seat as u can elbows bent.

Big Dawg
05-31-2015, 04:03 PM
Most of us that ride the big school busses in a spirited fashion, have installed traxxion forks with stronger springs in the front along with a fork brace and a Penski shock in the rear. I also have the fork tubes pushed down in the trees to raise the front of the bike even higher, In the rear I have a custom clevis on the rear shock that is 1/4" longer than stock with results in raising the rear 3/4" . My kick stand is an 1" longer than stock to compensate for the bike being so much higher. Bottom line, it takes a lot more lean angle to drag pegs on this bike than a stock one. However, when I am dragging pegs, a rider on a stock bike could be in trouble trying to stay with me. I will stay that there are a group of guys that I ride with that have similar set ups on their wings and they are all extremely fast. Most all of them are running a car tire on the rear too.

ths61
05-31-2015, 05:28 PM
Most of us that ride the big school busses in a spirited fashion, have installed traxxion forks with stronger springs in the front along with a fork brace and a Penski shock in the rear. I also have the fork tubes pushed down in the trees to raise the front of the bike even higher, In the rear I have a custom clevis on the rear shock that is 1/4" longer than stock with results in raising the rear 3/4" . My kick stand is an 1" longer than stock to compensate for the bike being so much higher. Bottom line, it takes a lot more lean angle to drag pegs on this bike than a stock one. However, when I am dragging pegs, a rider on a stock bike could be in trouble trying to stay with me. I will stay that there are a group of guys that I ride with that have similar set ups on their wings and they are all extremely fast. Most all of them are running a car tire on the rear too.

Which fork brace do you recommend ? I have had the Traxxion front and Penski rear, but never had the fork braces.

Big Dawg
05-31-2015, 06:44 PM
Which fork brace do you recommend ? I have had the Traxxion front and Penski rear, but never had the fork braces.
Personally I like the Gen 2 Chrome Fork Brace for GL1800 by Kuryakyn.

As a matter of fact, I have an excellent used one for 125 if you are interested, plus shipping

ths61
05-31-2015, 07:37 PM
Personally I like the Gen 2 Chrome Fork Brace for GL1800 by Kuryakyn.

As a matter of fact, I have an excellent used one for 125 if you are interested, plus shipping

Thanks for the quick response. I would be interested if it was matte black. Trying to keep any new chrome off the bike.

Wmorgan2k
05-31-2015, 08:57 PM
Eveyrone has there own opinion of what they feel is safe and sane and if yours is draggin your bike all over the place then cool, mine isn't. I just don't feel the need to run that fast on public roads. If you do that's fine but like many would agree take it to the track that way when you do crash you don't take anyone else out.

All I said was either pick a better line and use good technique and ride at sane speed so you don't ever worry about how much your dragging. I can get through the Dragon plenty fast to lose a lot of riders within a few corners and barely touch a foot peg, than again as mentioned I also have Traxxion on my bike with the fully monty and more ground clearance, the F6B has more clearance than a wing to start with and the Valkyrie has even more clearance so it's easier to pick the pace up plenty fast enough.

Even without draggin parts you can easily double almost any speed limit on those curvey roads. Many don't use proper technique and that just leads to more parts dragging and overcooked corners

Ride your own ride. The OP asked what we do, I ride a tiny bit slower so as not to drag anything thats my advice and I still go plenty fast enough to wind up in Jail if I were ever caught. At the end of the day it's your bike, your body do as you will...

ChiSteve
06-01-2015, 02:53 PM
Most of us that ride the big school busses in a spirited fashion, have installed traxxion forks with stronger springs in the front along with a fork brace and a Penski shock in the rear. I also have the fork tubes pushed down in the trees to raise the front of the bike even higher, In the rear I have a custom clevis on the rear shock that is 1/4" longer than stock with results in raising the rear 3/4" . My kick stand is an 1" longer than stock to compensate for the bike being so much higher. Bottom line, it takes a lot more lean angle to drag pegs on this bike than a stock one. However, when I am dragging pegs, a rider on a stock bike could be in trouble trying to stay with me. I will stay that there are a group of guys that I ride with that have similar set ups on their wings and they are all extremely fast. Most all of them are running a car tire on the rear too.

Ahhhh, so you put a car tire on the back of your bike and then had to throw thousands into the suspension to correct the geometry. I got it.

srt8-in-largo
06-01-2015, 03:12 PM
:icon_doh:

shooter
06-01-2015, 03:14 PM
And George that was only his 19th post!

srt8-in-largo
06-01-2015, 07:16 PM
Oy vey!

Hey you and I have the same join date; must have been a full moon that month.

shooter
06-01-2015, 07:18 PM
Karma , buddy. Kindred spirits. Or we could have just been bored to tears and needed something to do.

Big Dawg
06-01-2015, 07:30 PM
Ahhhh, so you put a car tire on the back of your bike and then had to throw thousands into the suspension to correct the geometry. I got it.
No sir, "You Don't Got it" Not even close! Even if I explain it you still can't understand, But I will humor you, That ain't the way it went down, I just got tired of replacing the rear tire evey 6,000 miles so I installed a car tire and now I get 12,000 miles out of a Michelin run flal car tire that cost 1/2 as much as a M/C tire. The suspension up grades came long before the change to a car tire.

Wmorgan2k
06-03-2015, 08:55 PM
I thought about a car tire once but was to chicken to do it LOL. I've ridden one bike with one on it and it wasn't my cup of tea, the low speed stuff bothered my, you turns and such but a lot of guys like them a lot so that's great. Lots of people getting great mileage out of them.

There was cool you tube video of a guy that put a gopro under the bike with a car tire, for sure you get a great contact patch, probably more so than a bike tire and it flexed just fine at crazy lean angles so I don't feel it's dangerous just not really my thing... I get a lot of mileage out of my bike tires so I don't worry to much.

And yes Traxxion is awesome!

srt8-in-largo
06-03-2015, 09:27 PM
Not that a car tire sidewall was intended to flex like that or anything :icon_biggrin:

Steve 0080
06-03-2015, 09:34 PM
I thought about a car tire once but was to chicken to do it LOL. I've ridden one bike with one on it and it wasn't my cup of tea, the low speed stuff bothered my, you turns and such but a lot of guys like them a lot so that's great. Lots of people getting great mileage out of them.

There was cool you tube video of a guy that put a gopro under the bike with a car tire, for sure you get a great contact patch, probably more so than a bike tire and it flexed just fine at crazy lean angles so I don't feel it's dangerous just not really my thing... I get a lot of mileage out of my bike tires so I don't worry to much.

And yes Traxxion is awesome!

With the Michelin Alpine CT...if someone did not tell you you would not know !!! Come to Franklin or drive up to the Sanford/Orlando area and you can ride mine !!!