Best stereo upgrade options

[stevenolts]

I have read the post about the J&M speaker upgrade. How good is this? Is it worth the money?

Has anyone done a more in depth stereo upgrade? add an amp / more speakers etc..

Thank you,

Steve

[Tedubya]

http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?3356-Audio-amplifier

there is another too thats informative.

Todd

[Jimmytee]

I have read the post about the J&M speaker upgrade. How good is this? Is it worth the money?

Has anyone done a more in depth stereo upgrade? add an amp / more speakers etc..

Thank you,

Steve

I replaced the front speakers with Polk Audio MM series component speakers,added a new amplifier in place of the factory one and added a JL Audio subwoofer.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I have read the post about the J&M speaker upgrade. How good is this? Is it worth the money?

Has anyone done a more in depth stereo upgrade? add an amp / more speakers etc..

Thank you,

Steve

Doing the Polk DXI 6.5" speakers this weekend.
J

[terrydj]

Just wondering ???
Them riders that fill the saddlebags with a sound system ??
Do they ever ride further than Mcdonalds for a Latte ???????:icon_cool:

[Steve 0080]

Don't know... I have not turned my bike radio on since ......... forgot, its been that long!

[Jimmytee]

Just wondering ???
Them riders that fill the saddlebags with a sound system ??
Do they ever ride further than Mcdonalds for a Latte ???????:icon_cool:

Can't speak for anyone else, but I ride 3-600 miles each time I ride. When there isn't snow . If the weather is agreeable and I don't have other household responsibilities (sometimes those get neglected for my riding addiction :icon_rolleyes::shhh:). The majority of those rides are round trip in a day rides, just riding to be riding. Sometimes I ride and stay somewhere over night. This summer I have an extended trip plan and a least 2 smaller trips planned that involve packing some luggage. I ride 10- 12 k miles per year usually and this, keep in mind is all recreational riding. I have a service truck that I drive to get me wherever I am working, and yes that means I am not retired. I also live in Kentucky, and while it is not Alaska, we did just get 14-15 " of snow and it is currently 16 degrees Fahrenheit outside.
I have a small but potent JL Audio subwoofer in one saddlebag. The subwoofer can come out if need be. Two Velcro straps that I installed to keep it secure and 1 dual banana plug for the speaker connection pulled and she slips right out. The rest of the sound system remains and has no impact on storage space. The other saddlebag has nothing but what I pack in it and I do have a luggage rack and luggage to go on that luggage rack.
:shrug: So I guess ,what do you mean? Unless I am going over night somewhere, The most I need is a place to put my gear I might want with me for temperature changes while out. One bag by itself does that quite fine.:icon_cool:
Oh and that sub sounds so good while riding too. To each their own, but the last good weather weekend was about 2-3 weeks ago, Went out both Sat and Sun. Temps were in the 40s and lower 50s. Had a great time on some really twisty roads and was jamming all the way.:icon_mrgreen:

[stevenolts]

I don't want to fill my saddle bags either. I think a small amp and a subwolfer that can be removed if needed in one saddle bag sounds like the way to go.

Does anyone have the J&M speakers? I was thinking of starting with that upgrade and see if I need more.
How big of an amp (RMS wats) can you add for the J&M speaker upgrade? How many (RMS watts) does the stock stereo have?

I think I maybe happy with a larger windshield and the J&M speaker upgrade for now. Then add the amp and subwolfer later.

From my test rides one with the stock windshield and several with the honda accessory larger windshield with the vent the larger windshield is key to stereo performance.

I am going to buy the bike next week and ride from St Louis to either Colorado Springs or Panama City for my first ride at the end of March.

I need to order a few upgrades ASAP to get them in time for my trip.

Steve

[Jimmytee]

Just my 2 cents here, but if you're wanting to add an amp, I would look to different speakers. The J&M speakers, if I'm not mistaken, are only replacing the woofer portion. My sub comes out of the left saddlebag in about the time it takes me to open the bag.:icon_cool: I have awhole write up on what I did.

[stevenolts]

The J&M are a fairing replacement speaker for the F6B. I found they can go up to 140wats http://www.jmcorp.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=FSPU-GL06 J&M claims to be the premeir motorcycle stereo company / I have never bought anything from them.

Did you have to cut a hole in the saddlebag for your subwolfer?

Can you send me the link to you write up please.

Thank you,
Steve

[Deer Slayer]

Just wondering ???
Them riders that fill the saddlebags with a sound system ??
Do they ever ride further than Mcdonalds for a Latte ???????:icon_cool:

Best sound is the end of riding day, with a pint at your watering hole. :cheers:

[Jimmytee]

The J&M are a fairing replacement speaker for the F6B. I found they can go up to 140wats http://www.jmcorp.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=FSPU-GL06 J&M claims to be the premeir motorcycle stereo company / I have never bought anything from them.

Did you have to cut a hole in the saddlebag for your subwolfer?

Can you send me the link to you write up please.

Thank you,
Steve
That's kind of it . I'm not saying anything bad about the J&M speakers, but you're buying speakers from a "motorcycle" accessory company, not an audio electronics company. Jus' food for thought. I did make three vents in the bag for the sub. Those were done with drilling small holes in a circular pattern and using a product called Frogzkins to cover those vents. The vents are discrete ,but I have some tremendous bass capability added to the music. I use a 4 channel micro amp to power everything. The amp is from a company called NVX. I will post a link to the write up later when I'm at my PC. I'm very happy. It isn't for everyone, but I love it.

[edgeman55]

I have installed the J&M's and am very happy with them.Best improvement for me is that I feel they sound better at higher volume levels which I need with my poor hearing.I can't see why I would need a high end setup for sound on a motorcycle as all the wind and outside noise plus my old man ears would not really experience the sound improvement.

[terrydj]

Can't speak for anyone else, but I ride 3-600 miles each time I ride. When there isn't snow . If the weather is agreeable and I don't have other household responsibilities (sometimes those get neglected for my riding addiction :icon_rolleyes::shhh:). The majority of those rides are round trip in a day rides, just riding to be riding. Sometimes I ride and stay somewhere over night. This summer I have an extended trip plan and a least 2 smaller trips planned that involve packing some luggage. I ride 10- 12 k miles per year usually and this, keep in mind is all recreational riding. I have a service truck that I drive to get me wherever I am working, and yes that means I am not retired. I also live in Kentucky, and while it is not Alaska, we did just get 14-15 " of snow and it is currently 16 degrees Fahrenheit outside.
I have a small but potent JL Audio subwoofer in one saddlebag. The subwoofer can come out if need be. Two Velcro straps that I installed to keep it secure and 1 dual banana plug for the speaker connection pulled and she slips right out. The rest of the sound system remains and has no impact on storage space. The other saddlebag has nothing but what I pack in it and I do have a luggage rack and luggage to go on that luggage rack.
:shrug: So I guess ,what do you mean? Unless I am going over night somewhere, The most I need is a place to put my gear I might want with me for temperature changes while out. One bag by itself does that quite fine.:icon_cool:
Oh and that sub sounds so good while riding too. To each their own, but the last good weather weekend was about 2-3 weeks ago, Went out both Sat and Sun. Temps were in the 40s and lower 50s. Had a great time on some really twisty roads and was jamming all the way.:icon_mrgreen:

Fair enough
I need the storage space because I travel overnight a lot.
Fair enough to pack the saddlebags with sound gear if you don"t need em
But I need the space
Even if its just to put my jacket in when I stop.
I have 2000 watts in my car but the radio on the F6B sounds great at any speed to me:icon_cool:

[Jimmytee]

Fair enough
I need the storage space because I travel overnight a lot.
Fair enough to pack the saddlebags with sound gear if you don"t need em
But I need the space
Even if its just to put my jacket in when I stop.
I have 2000 watts in my car but the radio on the F6B sounds great at any speed to me:icon_cool:

How big of a jacket do you own? Does it come in two pieces?:icon_biggrin: My right saddle bag remains void of any audio gear and left one can be that way in less than 30 seconds if I really need it to be. Not really trying to sell anyone on doing what I did, but clear up any misconception that I no longer can use my saddlebags for traditional storage. Any overnight trip can easily be done without even removing the sub or additional luggage on the luggage rack. Unless you you pack a weeks worth of clothes for an over night.:icon_cool:

[GiddyupF6B]

I wish I had someone close to me in Maryland with experience to upgrade my system. I do all my own mods and maintenance to my bike myself but have never gotten into any audio installs. I would LOVE to have a thumpin system on my F6B...that's the ONLY thing my Harley buddies have on me, their stereos sound so much better than this one......

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I wish I had someone close to me in Maryland with experience to upgrade my system. I do all my own mods and maintenance to my bike myself but have never gotten into any audio installs. I would LOVE to have a thumpin system on my F6B...that's the ONLY thing my Harley buddies have on me, their stereos sound so much better than this one......

If you can change oil, you can certainly do a speaker swap. Many great " how to's" here on stereo upgrades. I'm just getting going on upgrading the stereo on The Black Bike.
If I think about it while doing it, perhaps I too, will take time to document the process and take a pic or two.
Go for it.
J

[terrydj]

How big of a jacket do you own? Does it come in two pieces?:icon_biggrin: My right saddle bag remains void of any audio gear and left one can be that way in less than 30 seconds if I really need it to be. Not really trying to sell anyone on doing what I did, but clear up any misconception that I no longer can use my saddlebags for traditional storage. Any overnight trip can easily be done without even removing the sub or additional luggage on the luggage rack. Unless you you pack a weeks worth of clothes for an over night.:icon_cool:

My short summer jacket fits without a squeeze but my riding jacket is a tight fit

[GiddyupF6B]

If you can change oil, you can certainly do a speaker swap. Many great " how to's" here on stereo upgrades. I'm just getting going on upgrading the stereo on The Black Bike.
If I think about it while doing it, perhaps I too, will take time to document the process and take a pic or two.
Go for it.
J

I already did the speaker swap the second week I had the bike...I want an amp, sub, and better speakers up front.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I already did the speaker swap the second week I had the bike...I want an amp, sub, and better speakers up front.

Ok, open your wallet and here you go. JM not so much.. Polk MM to start. Jimmie T can introduce you to a subwoofer and amp.

[Jimmytee]

I already did the speaker swap the second week I had the bike...I want an amp, sub, and better speakers up front.

This is the sub I used

http://www.jlaudio.com/cp106lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93300

This is the amp I used. The rear channels are bridged for the sub and the fronts power,well the fronts.:icon_rolleyes:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html

These are the speakers I installed up front.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17949_Polk-Audio-MM5251.html

[GiddyupF6B]

Ok, open your wallet and here you go. JM not so much.. Polk MM to start. Jimmie T can introduce you to a subwoofer and amp.


This is the sub I used

http://www.jlaudio.com/cp106lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93300

This is the amp I used. The rear channels are bridged for the sub and the fronts power,well the fronts.:icon_rolleyes:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html

These are the speakers I installed up front.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17949_Polk-Audio-MM5251.html
I have no problem opening the wallet at all. You guys speak the audio lingo I do not. I have no idea about bridged, unbridged, ohms, and all that jazz. Once I open the wallet and get all this magical stuff delivered I have no idea what to do with it. I've done (and am doing) some pretty killer stuff on multiple bikes....I just don't speak stereo.....

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Sorry Giddy,
Not trying to sound condesending.
Re read the existing threads, including Jimmie T's to decide how deep you want to go. My build and decision with amps and crossovers for my 6, starts tomorrow. I need to open her up to figure out how to integrate with oem system and wiring. Jimmie is light years ahead of me in terms of what there is to work from.
Jim

[GiddyupF6B]

Sorry Giddy,
Not trying to sound condesending.
Re read the existing threads, including Jimmie T's to decide how deep you want to go. My build and decision with amps and crossovers for my 6, starts tomorrow. I need to open her up to figure out how to integrate with oem system and wiring. Jimmie is light years ahead of me in terms of what there is to work from.
Jim

No worries....I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

[Jimmytee]

Whoo, I'll tell you it was more complicated than what I had originally imagined, but I am so very pleased with the results. A lot of people could be very happy with just changing the front speakers and adding an amp. The speakers in the fairing I used with the amp sound very good on their own. The sub, just propels it into the stratosphere in sound enjoyment. Riding the bike a couple weekends ago,before the last round of snow, I was just smiling ear to ear with the sound and bass I was getting while carving up some twisty roads.
I am more than happy to give any input if someone wants to do a similar project. I have jumped across some hurdles already in the process and maybe can help illuminate someone else's path. The biggest issue dealt with hooking up an amp to achieve the operation I wanted. Using speaker level to low level RCA adapters did not work for me. Granted there are some more expensive audio processors that do this adaptation, and if they work, would simplify the process. Smoking Joe on here used one of these and I think he may have got it to work. My problem with the lesser RCA adapters was the signal was severely degraded and distortion was introduced. I chose to splice into the factory wiring harness at the OEM amplifier. I am using the pre out signals from the factory "Audio Unit" to the new amplifier and the OEM amplifier now resides in my parts bin.:icon_mrgreen: The results were worth it to me.Requires some skill in soldering, but completely doable. I put in 5.25" Polk MM series speakers that required me to make an adapter plate from a sheet of ABS. The 6.5" will fit with some trimming of the speaker frame.

[SoCal Rich]

Jimmy- I wear earplugs when I ride and need to turn the volume up sometimes as high as it will go. Sometimes even that is not quite enough, especially if I'm playing MP3s from my Zumo (so I can also hear spoken directions). What would you recommend in terms of mods if I wanted to get, say, 25% more volume but don't require any improvement in sound quality?

Thanks!

[Jimmytee]

Jimmy- I wear earplugs when I ride and need to turn the volume up sometimes as high as it will go. Sometimes even that is not quite enough, especially if I'm playing MP3s from my Zumo (so I can also hear spoken directions). What would you recommend in terms of mods if I wanted to get, say, 25% more volume but don't require any improvement in sound quality?

Thanks!

It's hard to say. If you want louder than stock, you're going to need to change the speakers and add an amplifier. Sound quality, by default, may improve as well depending on components chosen. The better the sound quality , the better you'll hear distinctly what is being heard. I take it you wear a half helmet or why the ear plugs?

[bobbyf6b]

I think a small pre-amped sub is the way to go. Easy to install and remove when needed.

I put one like this under the seat in my Ford Focus and it booms.

12229

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_32735_SoundStorm_LoPro8.aspx

(just an example)

[jkelley]

ok Jimmy when you ever ride down this way we need to talk.

I wanna hear your set up, and you can advise me on the audio stuff and I'll show you how to install cruise.......

[Jimmytee]

ok Jimmy when you ever ride down this way we need to talk.

I wanna hear your set up, and you can advise me on the audio stuff and I'll show you how to install cruise.......

Sounds like a plan. May be riding down to the Dragon on the 28th. Not sure yet. But, that's being thrown around as a ride down and back up in the same day. Planning on being at the Rally during Labor Day.
Other than that anything is possible.:icon_biggrin:
Maybe another trip could come up. Depends on what kind of summer I have in store. I need a busy one.:icon_rolleyes:
Will be in NC sometime after the Rally most likely for another ride put on each year by one of the VRCC people.

Going to Spearfish ,SD in June, but that's the wrong direction. :shrug:

[jkelley]

Come on down any time and well for sure ride in any case.

[Jimmytee]

I think a small pre-amped sub is the way to go. Easy to install and remove when needed.

I put one like this under the seat in my Ford Focus and it booms.

12229

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_32735_SoundStorm_LoPro8.aspx

(just an example)

Only thing is, making boom inside the small confines of a Ford Focus and making boom on a bike are two very different things. I would be very surprised if that sub would be very satisfying. But, who knows.

[bobbyf6b]

Only thing is, making boom inside the small confines of a Ford Focus and making boom on a bike are two very different things. I would be very surprised if that sub would be very satisfying. But, who knows.

You're probably right since the car is almost air tight. Maybe a port in the bag would help.

[SoCal Rich]

It's hard to say. If you want louder than stock, you're going to need to change the speakers and add an amplifier. Sound quality, by default, may improve as well depending on components chosen. The better the sound quality , the better you'll hear distinctly what is being heard. I take it you wear a half helmet or why the ear plugs?

Full face helmet! Ear plugs to drown out engine and wind noise, they really bother me. I've installed amplifier and speakers on another bike (Polk speakers and Rockford Fosgate amp on Kawasaki Vaquero) so I wouldn't mind doing so on the F6B. Which amplifier and speakers would you suggest for ease of installation? I don't want to bypass the stock unit or trim down speakers to fit if I can avoid it.

Thanks again!

[Jimmytee]

Full face helmet! Ear plugs to drown out engine and wind noise, they really bother me. I've installed amplifier and speakers on another bike (Polk speakers and Rockford Fosgate amp on Kawasaki Vaquero) so I wouldn't mind doing so on the F6B. Which amplifier and speakers would you suggest for ease of installation? I don't want to bypass the stock unit or trim down speakers to fit if I can avoid it.

Thanks again!

I can only speak ,from experience, to what I have done. I'm sure the Rockford PBR may be fine. When I was doing the stereo on my Valkyrie, I was steered way from that amp. A guy from a local car audio shop, who does a lot of custom audio on bikes, really suggested highly an amp from Kenwood. It was a Excelon XR400-4 .
http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-XR400-4-eXcleon-Reference-Amplifier/dp/B00C1D0DHE
He did not lead me wrong, it is a real performer in my Valkyrie. I am very pleased. When I was researching for the components that would go into my F6B, I came across this gem from a company called NVX.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html

They are out of stock currently, but I can tell you that I am impressed with the power out of this little amp.

As far as speakers, well unless you buy the J&M speakers or find another speaker that will exactly fit, some sort of adaptation will be required. If I was doing it again, I'd probably go with these
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15059_Polk-Audio-MM6501.html

I chose to get the 5.25" versions, because I was concerned whether I'd be able to make the 6.5" fit. Well, that has been done by a couple of others and it wasn't that difficult. Yes some trimming of the plastic frame is required, but that easily done with a Dremel tool. The 5.25" speakers, though, sound really good and I am not regretting their purchase. I am running a sub though and they really seem to blend very fluidly with the sub and make for a really good blend. The 5.25" did require me to make an adapter plate from a ABS plastic, where the 6.5" bolts right up with the caveat that the speaker frame needs trimmed to clear the instrument panel.

Couple of the reasons I chose the speakers I did, were reviews and the speaker's impedance of 2.7 ohms. 2.7 is lower than the usual 4 ohm impedance. What this does for a capable amp is increase the power/wattage delivered to the speakers. But you need to be sure that the amp used is fine with running on 2 ohm loads. The ones I've mentioned are fine.

I can tell you that I measured, with a sound meter, the output of the new speakers with the OEM amp and with the new amp. The output was more than twice as loud with the setting on the volume remaining the same.(20) From the volume setting of 20, if I tried to raise the volume with the OEM amp, no appreciable gain in volume but definitely a lot of distortion . In contrast, with the new amp, I could continue to turn the volume up to painful levels all the way to 30.

If you just want a simple and a little louder and clearer, you might just try changing out the speakers. Some have put these in.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9111_Polk-Audio-db651.html

ANd then there is the J&M. Neither of these have I heard . I was going for a substantial improvement over stock and I am very pleased, but it isn't for everyone or the faint of heart. I did discover what works and what doesn't in my efforts, so if anyone is wanting to do similar, I'm willing to share.

[SoCal Rich]

I can only speak ,from experience, to what I have done. I'm sure the Rockford PBR may be fine. When I was doing the stereo on my Valkyrie, I was steered way from that amp. A guy from a local car audio shop, who does a lot of custom audio on bikes, really suggested highly an amp from Kenwood. It was a Excelon XR400-4 .
http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-XR400-4-eXcleon-Reference-Amplifier/dp/B00C1D0DHE
He did not lead me wrong, it is a real performer in my Valkyrie. I am very pleased. When I was researching for the components that would go into my F6B, I came across this gem from a company called NVX.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html

They are out of stock currently, but I can tell you that I am impressed with the power out of this little amp.

As far as speakers, well unless you buy the J&M speakers or find another speaker that will exactly fit, some sort of adaptation will be required. If I was doing it again, I'd probably go with these
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15059_Polk-Audio-MM6501.html

I chose to get the 5.25" versions, because I was concerned whether I'd be able to make the 6.5" fit. Well, that has been done by a couple of others and it wasn't that difficult. Yes some trimming of the plastic frame is required, but that easily done with a Dremel tool. The 5.25" speakers, though, sound really good and I am not regretting their purchase. I am running a sub though and they really seem to blend very fluidly with the sub and make for a really good blend. The 5.25" did require me to make an adapter plate from a ABS plastic, where the 6.5" bolts right up with the caveat that the speaker frame needs trimmed to clear the instrument panel.

Couple of the reasons I chose the speakers I did, were reviews and the speaker's impedance of 2.7 ohms. 2.7 is lower than the usual 4 ohm impedance. What this does for a capable amp is increase the power/wattage delivered to the speakers. But you need to be sure that the amp used is fine with running on 2 ohm loads. The ones I've mentioned are fine.

I can tell you that I measured, with a sound meter, the output of the new speakers with the OEM amp and with the new amp. The output was more than twice as loud with the setting on the volume remaining the same.(20) From the volume setting of 20, if I tried to raise the volume with the OEM amp, no appreciable gain in volume but definitely a lot of distortion . In contrast, with the new amp, I could continue to turn the volume up to painful levels all the way to 30.

If you just want a simple and a little louder and clearer, you might just try changing out the speakers. Some have put these in.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9111_Polk-Audio-db651.html

ANd then there is the J&M. Neither of these have I heard . I was going for a substantial improvement over stock and I am very pleased, but it isn't for everyone or the faint of heart. I did discover what works and what doesn't in my efforts, so if anyone is wanting to do similar, I'm willing to share.

Thanks so much!

[Jimmytee]

This is the amp in my saddlebag I used. Here are a couple pics of the sub and one of the three ports, This port shown is in the black area on front of the saddlebag.
12246122471224812249

[Hornblower]

Question for you, Jimmytee...Like you mentioned, the NVX amp is on backorder right now. Would you advise waiting for that one or would this one work almost as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T163SY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1FNNZKRPKVPCQ875C7F8

[Jimmytee]

Question for you, Jimmytee...Like you mentioned, the NVX amp is on backorder right now. Would you advise waiting for that one or would this one work almost as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T163SY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1FNNZKRPKVPCQ875C7F8

Well according to the description or specifications , the amp is not bridgeable. So for what I did, no it wouldn't work. I have the two rear channels bridged to a single channel for the subwoofer. The combined or bridged output for the NVX is rated at 175 watts into 4 ohms. So you see what bridging can do, but the amp has to be able to do it. So effectively, I have the 4 channel amp running as a 3 channel amp.

If the NVX had not been available this is the amp I would have gotten. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XR4004/Kenwood-Excelon-XR400-4.html?tp=115
I have it in my Valkyrie and it completely rocks and sounds very good. It won't ,however, fit where I put the NVX amp, but I could have found another place for it to go. The Kenwood amp is only 1" thick, but the length and width measurements are bigger. I fit it inside the Woody's Batwing fairing of my Valkyrie and it is sandwiched between the inner and outer shells. Since the photo was taken I hooked up the two remaining channels for 6.5" speakers in the saddlebags. In the photo, I have the front 2 channels powering 4 Kicker 5.25 " speakers. Two left in parallel and likewise for the right for a 2 ohm load on each of the front channels.
122552770

[Hornblower]

Thanks, Jimmytee :yes:. You are turning out to be a great resource for this subject. Of course, it's probably going to wind up costing me money :icon_rolleyes:.

[SoCal Rich]

Question for you, Jimmytee...Like you mentioned, the NVX amp is on backorder right now. Would you advise waiting for that one or would this one work almost as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T163SY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1FNNZKRPKVPCQ875C7F8

Funny, it shows as out of stock on the Sonic site. However, I ordered from Amazon and the order status is "shipped". Maybe they prioritize Amazon orders first? Dunno.

[Jimmytee]

Funny, it shows as out of stock on the Sonic site. However, I ordered from Amazon and the order status is "shipped". Maybe they prioritize Amazon orders first? Dunno.

Yeah, I guess this amp is making waves because, shortly after I got mine in December, the price went up. I believe we paid $169 for the amp and then it went up to $200. Now , of course it seems inventory is not keeping up with demand. I , for one, am glad Honda didn't have that issue with the F6B.:icon_biggrin: I bet that Honda wished they had that issue.

[Hornblower]

Funny, it shows as out of stock on the Sonic site. However, I ordered from Amazon and the order status is "shipped". Maybe they prioritize Amazon orders first? Dunno.

I, too, saw the NVPA1 on Amazon but I didn't see the NVPA4. Did I miss it? Can you post the link?

[Jimmytee]

I couldn't find the 4 channel one on Amazon either. Here is a link to NVX's site, but they list this amp at $299. That's a big jump in price.

http://www.nvx.com/mvpa4-4-channel-compact-car-amplifier-400w-rms/

[SoCal Rich]

I, too, saw the NVPA1 on Amazon but I didn't see the NVPA4. Did I miss it? Can you post the link?

No, I cannot, because like a dumb ass I ordered the wrong amp!

[Hornblower]

No, I cannot, because like a dumb ass I ordered the wrong amp!

Sorry, man! I hate it when that happens! Maybe you can still cancel the order on Amazon if it hasn't shipped already :shrug:

[tommief6b]

I install 2 polk marine 6x9 in each of my saddle bags with a small amp in left bag it sounds incredible I use the rear speaker output for signal so the fader and everything works as it should I install a switch on the left panel to turn amp off if I only want to play stock stereo, and yes I ride big time I can carry luggage for myself and wife for a week. I had the bike 1 year I have just over 11,000 miles

[GiddyupF6B]

I install 2 polk marine 6x9 in each of my saddle bags with a small amp in left bag it sounds incredible I use the rear speaker output for signal so the fader and everything works as it should I install a switch on the left panel to turn amp off if I only want to play stock stereo, and yes I ride big time I can carry luggage for myself and wife for a week. I had the bike 1 year I have just over 11,000 miles
How about some pictures?

[Jimmytee]

I install 2 polk marine 6x9 in each of my saddle bags with a small amp in left bag it sounds incredible I use the rear speaker output for signal so the fader and everything works as it should I install a switch on the left panel to turn amp off if I only want to play stock stereo, and yes I ride big time I can carry luggage for myself and wife for a week. I had the bike 1 year I have just over 11,000 miles

Yes let's see some pictures.:yes::biggthumpup:

I contemplated installing 6x9s in the saddlebags, but in the end, decided I wanted a sub.

[SoCal Rich]

Sorry, man! I hate it when that happens! Maybe you can still cancel the order on Amazon if it hasn't shipped already :shrug:

Already shipped. But Amazon makes it so easy to return stuff. I'll wait for the right one!

[SoCal Rich]

Already shipped. But Amazon makes it so easy to return stuff. I'll wait for the right one!

I return now, because, the MVP4a is back in stock at Sonic Electronics and I have one on order. So, Jimmy Tee, now that you had so much fun (i.e., experience) with the sound upgrade, what do you think will be the simplest approach to the wiring, assuming the installation of the MVP4a and just the two front speaker replacements? I saw your original thread with all the things you tried, and I'd like to leverage your experience and not go through all that you did. I'm also hoping to find space for the amp in the front fairing.

Thanks in advance every much!

[Jimmytee]

I return now, because, the MVP4a is back in stock at Sonic Electronics and I have one on order. So, Jimmy Tee, now that you had so much fun (i.e., experience) with the sound upgrade, what do you think will be the simplest approach to the wiring, assuming the installation of the MVP4a and just the two front speaker replacements? I saw your original thread with all the things you tried, and I'd like to leverage your experience and not go through all that you did. I'm also hoping to find space for the amp in the front fairing.

Thanks in advance every much!

The absolutely easiest way to hook up that amp would be to get an adapter ,that is available a couple of different places, that plugs into the headset plug and gives you an 3.5 mm (1/8" jack) to then adapt using a 3.5 mm to stereo RCA plug adapter. Other than power wires, this would set you up to use the amp. This is compromised in that you have to have the headset button engaged, but it will work just fine. You could also tap into the headset harness and solder in your own RCA connectors and this would leave the headset plug vacant, but you'd still have have the headset button engaged. This set up will yield a satisfying pre amp signal to the new amp.

The way I did it, as I detailed in the mentioned thread, was to splice into the actual pre out signals that feed the factory amp. This is more involved and I ultimately removed the factory Honda amp in the process. This is the way I would do it again as it leaves the headset function to function normally. Even though I don't use the headset, I just felt more satisfied doing it that way and it also allowed me to get 4 channels of pre outs as opposed to just the two that are in the headset. Tapping into the preamp signals that feed the factory amp is not that difficult, but it does require some skill in wiring and making connections. Also , for me required removing a fair amount of rear body work. But not bad.

[SoCal Rich]

The absolutely easiest way to hook up that amp would be to get an adapter ,that is available a couple of different places, that plugs into the headset plug and gives you an 3.5 mm (1/8" jack) to then adapt using a 3.5 mm to stereo RCA plug adapter. Other than power wires, this would set you up to use the amp. This is compromised in that you have to have the headset button engaged, but it will work just fine. You could also tap into the headset harness and solder in your own RCA connectors and this would leave the headset plug vacant, but you'd still have have the headset button engaged. This set up will yield a satisfying pre amp signal to the new amp.

The way I did it, as I detailed in the mentioned thread, was to splice into the actual pre out signals that feed the factory amp. This is more involved and I ultimately removed the factory Honda amp in the process. This is the way I would do it again as it leaves the headset function to function normally. Even though I don't use the headset, I just felt more satisfied doing it that way and it also allowed me to get 4 channels of pre outs as opposed to just the two that are in the headset. Tapping into the preamp signals that feed the factory amp is not that difficult, but it does require some skill in wiring and making connections. Also , for me required removing a fair amount of rear body work. But not bad.

Thanks, Jimmy. I don't use the headset, so I'm gonna do it as you suggest. Many, many thanks!

[jimsol1]

would using the passenger headset pigtail wiring be a neater, out of the way place to tap in? Everything could be hidden under the seat. Jim

[jimsol1]

would using the passenger headset pigtail wiring be a neater, out of the way place to tap in? Everything could be hidden under the seat. Jim

[Jimmytee]

would using the passenger headset pigtail wiring be a neater, out of the way place to tap in? Everything could be hidden under the seat. Jim

The answer is yes, but you'd either have to wire in some jacks to the passenger hook up or buy a harness that plugs into the passenger feed to use the above mentioned adapters. As I'm sure you know, the F6B does not come with the harness installed for the passenger but it is an accessory available through Honda or another vendor.

[SoCal Rich]

The absolutely easiest way to hook up that amp would be to get an adapter ,that is available a couple of different places, that plugs into the headset plug and gives you an 3.5 mm (1/8" jack) to then adapt using a 3.5 mm to stereo RCA plug adapter. Other than power wires, this would set you up to use the amp. This is compromised in that you have to have the headset button engaged, but it will work just fine. You could also tap into the headset harness and solder in your own RCA connectors and this would leave the headset plug vacant, but you'd still have have the headset button engaged. This set up will yield a satisfying pre amp signal to the new amp.

The way I did it, as I detailed in the mentioned thread, was to splice into the actual pre out signals that feed the factory amp. This is more involved and I ultimately removed the factory Honda amp in the process. This is the way I would do it again as it leaves the headset function to function normally. Even though I don't use the headset, I just felt more satisfied doing it that way and it also allowed me to get 4 channels of pre outs as opposed to just the two that are in the headset. Tapping into the preamp signals that feed the factory amp is not that difficult, but it does require some skill in wiring and making connections. Also , for me required removing a fair amount of rear body work. But not bad.

Jimmy, since the headset plug allows for plugging in a combined headset/microphone, I'm guessing the adapter you mention would have multiple jacks on the other end, for 2-channel output as well as microphone input, correct? Just asking so I can fine a suitable adapter.

[SoCal Rich]

Jimmy, since the headset plug allows for plugging in a combined headset/microphone, I'm guessing the adapter you mention would have multiple jacks on the other end, for 2-channel output as well as microphone input, correct? Just asking so I can fine a suitable adapter.

Jimmy, check out this adapter, maybe kill two birds with one stone!:
http://www.amazon.com/Olufsen-5-pin-2-rca-Black-Audio/dp/B00E3GJ9B8/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1430099888&sr=1-17&keywords=5+pin+connector+din

[Jimmytee]

Jimmy, check out this adapter, maybe kill two birds with one stone!:
http://www.amazon.com/Olufsen-5-pin-2-rca-Black-Audio/dp/B00E3GJ9B8/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1430099888&sr=1-17&keywords=5+pin+connector+din

That would seem to be an idea, however DO NOT buy it. Seems logical doesn't it? However, 5 pin din plugs are pretty common in the audio world, but just because it is has 5 pins, does not mean those 5 pins are wired for the same purpose. Each of those pins are connected to a wire for a single purpose. In the 5 pin plug on our headset jacks, only three pins are used for the speaker portion of the headset. One pin is a shared common for both the left and right stereo signals and then there are the left and right stereo signal leads. The other two pins are for a ground and signal wire for the mic of a headset.

You need something like this http://wingstuff.com/products/21549-5-pin-din-to-3-5mm-headset-adapter?from_search=1

or here

http://www.sierra-mc.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SIE-WMA-F

and then something like this, they sell various configurations of these just about anywhere.
http://www.amazon.com/12ft-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter-Cable/dp/B0016LFN2C/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1430112137&sr=8-10&keywords=rca+to+3+5mm+adapter

[smokinjoe187]

Jimmy, check out this adapter, maybe kill two birds with one stone!:
http://www.amazon.com/Olufsen-5-pin-2-rca-Black-Audio/dp/B00E3GJ9B8/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1430099888&sr=1-17&keywords=5+pin+connector+din

been there.that plug dont work

[Jimmytee]

Jimmy, since the headset plug allows for plugging in a combined headset/microphone, I'm guessing the adapter you mention would have multiple jacks on the other end, for 2-channel output as well as microphone input, correct? Just asking so I can fine a suitable adapter.

If you check out the links I gave above, you'll see the adapter does only the stereo audio signal. The mic pins are essentially unused.

[SoCal Rich]

been there.that plug dont work

Damn! I pushed the order button too soon! Oh well, what's another return? Thanks everyone for your help on this. I'm determined to do it right the first time!

[SoCal Rich]

Damn! I pushed the order button too soon! Oh well, what's another return? Thanks everyone for your help on this. I'm determined to do it right the first time!

Ok, all parts in and about ready to install, and, of course, I have another question for Jimmytee! Did you locate the head unit's remote turn on lead and wire it to the remote terminal on the MVPA4, or do you just let it turn on when you start the bike?

[Jimmytee]

Ok, all parts in and about ready to install, and, of course, I have another question for Jimmytee! Did you locate the head unit's remote turn on lead and wire it to the remote terminal on the MVPA4, or do you just let it turn on when you start the bike?

I didn't want to rely on the auto/signal sensing. There is a remote turn on terminal as you are aware. I believe it has to be powered either way, not sure. I used the power feed that used to power the factory amp as the remote turn on signal. You could use any 12 volt accessory voltage though. Like the 12 volts that is in the harness for the left pocket accessory power outlet. You just want to be sure it is a voltage that only comes on with the ignition or accessory key position.

[SoCal Rich]

I didn't want to rely on the auto/signal sensing. There is a remote turn on terminal as you are aware. I believe it has to be powered either way, not sure. I used the power feed that used to power the factory amp as the remote turn on signal. You could use any 12 volt accessory voltage though. Like the 12 volts that is in the harness for the left pocket accessory power outlet. You just want to be sure it is a voltage that only comes on with the ignition or accessory key position.
Got it. Thanks.

[ths61]

I didn't want to rely on the auto/signal sensing. There is a remote turn on terminal as you are aware. I believe it has to be powered either way, not sure. I used the power feed that used to power the factory amp as the remote turn on signal. You could use any 12 volt accessory voltage though. Like the 12 volts that is in the harness for the left pocket accessory power outlet. You just want to be sure it is a voltage that only comes on with the ignition or accessory key position.

FWIW, I put an accessory powered switch on my last bike so I could turn off the amplifier if needed.

[Jimmytee]

FWIW, I put an accessory powered switch on my last bike so I could turn off the amplifier if needed.

With the way mine is wired, if I simply hit the headset button , the amplifier is turned off.:icon_wink:

[ths61]

With the way mine is wired, if I simply hit the headset button , the amplifier is turned off.:icon_wink:

That is cool. No need for yet another switch (and switch location).

[SoCal Rich]

With the way mine is wired, if I simply hit the headset button , the amplifier is turned off.:icon_wink:

And that is because you you took the power wire that previously fed the Honda amp and sent it to the MVPA's power or remote terminal instead? I must have this!

Also, did you mess with the MVPA's various settings at all?

[ths61]

Best stereo upgrade so far is a good windshield and stock pipes !

[Jimmytee]

And that is because you you took the power wire that previously fed the Honda amp and sent it to the MVPA's power or remote terminal instead? I must have this!

Also, did you mess with the MVPA's various settings at all?

Well you know how I got there. I'd imagine that the power source could be picked up before getting back to the rear where the amp harness is, but I have not looked for it elsewhere. I wanted the preout signals too that fed the OEM amp. You do have a shop manual right? I could have probably tapped into the harness before it got into the back, but the harness before there is tightly wrapped and bundled with not much apparent slack to work with.

[ths61]

Well you know how I got there. I'd imagine that the power source could be picked up before getting back to the rear where the amp harness is, but I have not looked for it elsewhere. I wanted the preout signals too that fed the OEM amp. You do have a shop manual right? I could have probably tapped into the harness before it got into the back, but the harness before there is tightly wrapped and bundled with not much apparent slack to work with.

Bummer !

[Fla_rider]

Best stereo upgrade so far is a good windshield and stock pipes !

I'd give you a +1 for windscreen and add +1 for AVC. :clap2:

[ths61]

I'd give you a +1 for windscreen and add +1 for AVC. :clap2:

The AVC set to HIGH seems to kick in kind of late on my bike (with the short shield). I will have to play with it some more with the new shield.

[Jimmytee]

Don't really care for the AVC. My thomb on the volume works just fine. Before I did the stero mods, the AVC seemed it would get too low at lower speeds or be too loud at higher speeds. Actually haven't tried it since doing the upgrade thing.

[christian52]

Just did a speaker swap with j&m and a 11 inch baggershield.....the screen made the difference more than the speakers......less tinny sounding but not much more performance.they are also on backorder til sept.

[Jimmytee]

Haven't heard the J&M but I wouldn't expect much from them. I have Polk Audio MM series component speakers with the addition of a aftermarket amplifier and also a sub.

[SoCal Rich]

Project complete! I bought the 5.5 Polk speakers and made frames from plywood. Put the left crossover under the left compartment and put both the amplifier and the right crossover in the right compartment. Now I just need to give it a go on a ride. In the garage with earplugs in I didn't detect any noticeable increase in volume, but a road test will be the best judge.

[Jimmytee]

Project complete! I bought the 5.5 Polk speakers and made frames from plywood. Put the left crossover under the left compartment and put both the amplifier and the right crossover in the right compartment. Now I just need to give it a go on a ride. In the garage with earplugs in I didn't detect any noticeable increase in volume, but a road test will be the best judge.

Make sure you don't have the switch on the crossovers set for the -3 db cut. If you have everything hooked up as I do, you should have a tremendous difference. I measured over twice as loud than with the OEM amplifier.

[SoCal Rich]

Make sure you don't have the switch on the crossovers set for the -3 db cut. If you have everything hooked up as I do, you should have a tremendous difference. I measured over twice as loud than with the OEM amplifier.

So, I've been able to do my road test, so here is a report:

First, a summary of my installation:
1. Polk DB 5251, no sub woofer, used existing tweeters
2. NVX MVPA4 amp
3. Connected via headset plug

So, the volume is definitely higher than the original. Jimmy measured 2x, but I would guess 1.5x in my case.

AVC no longer works; I'm guessing that AVC only works when speakers are chosen as the output; but not when headset is chosen.

Sound quality is not as good, probably because I did not install a sub woofer.

So, would I do it again knowing what I now know? Jury is still out.
Will I uninstall? Definitely not, I really wanted the extra volume.

Wish it sounded a little bit better, but I'll get used to it.

[ths61]

FWIW, the DB series is 92dB and 4 Ohms while the MM series is 94db and 2.7 Ohms.

3dB is a doubling of power, but not a doubling of perceived loudness (need @ 10dB for that).

The 2.7 Ohms will also source more power (than the 4 Ohms) through the amp which will also make the speakers sound louder (if the amp is up to the load).

[Jimmytee]

So, I've been able to do my road test, so here is a report:

First, a summary of my installation:
1. Polk DB 5251, no sub woofer, used existing tweeters
2. NVX MVPA4 amp
3. Connected via headset plug

So, the volume is definitely higher than the original. Jimmy measured 2x, but I would guess 1.5x in my case.

AVC no longer works; I'm guessing that AVC only works when speakers are chosen as the output; but not when headset is chosen.

Sound quality is not as good, probably because I did not install a sub woofer.

So, would I do it again knowing what I now know? Jury is still out.
Will I uninstall? Definitely not, I really wanted the extra volume.

Wish it sounded a little bit better, but I'll get used to it.

Sorry your results are less than what you expected. I don't have any ideas for you off the top of my head. Other than the amp, you chose different speakers, installation etc.... It doesn't surprise me that your results would be different.
You chose speakers with a 4 ohm nominal impedance as opposed to the 2.7 ohm of the MM series speakers. This difference alone will mean that you are losing output/volume with the same rated amplifier.
Yes the AVC only works as I have done mine.
Have you turned the gain up on the amplifier?
I have a hard time understanding the sound quality thing. You say you left the stock tweeters in play? :icon_rolleyes: I wish you were somewhere near me, I could let you hear mine.
My measured volume was with a sound pressure meter.

[Jimmytee]

Keep in mind, if you've read my thread about the process I went through to get to my results, you should understand that I did the trial and error thing . I attempted easier solutions to reach the desired results and they were unsatisfactory.:banghead::banghead:

I carefully selected the components I used to match. If you change the ingredients in the recipe, you're going to come out with a different flavor.

[SoCal Rich]

Made a mistake . I installed MM5251, not DB. I had considered DBs but decided against. (Just went to verify)

And, no need for apologies, I love tinkering with this stuff, just wanted to share my observations. I really appreciate all the help you gave me.

I used 18 guage speaker wire, too. That should be enough, right?

[SoCal Rich]

I may have to try tapping in between the head unit and the original amplifier. I have a suspicion that it might be a better quality audio source.

[Jimmytee]

Made a mistake . I installed MM5251, not DB. I had considered DBs but decided against. (Just went to verify)

And, no need for apologies, I love tinkering with this stuff, just wanted to share my observations. I really appreciate all the help you gave me.

I used 18 guage speaker wire, too. That should be enough, right?

I would run at least 16 AWG speaker wire. I believe I used 16, possibly 14, but pretty sure it was 16. Trust me, the 18 awg speaker wire is probably a big part of your issue.:icon_cool:

Do not use the factory wiring.

If I understood your previous post I have a question. How did you use the existing tweeters and why? That right there is going to be a big no no.

I ran 10 awg wire for the amp, but I had a very short run. If I had installed the amp in the fairing, I may have went with 8 awg. There is an adapter/accessory available for the amp to allow an 8 AWG wire hook up.

[SoCal Rich]

I would run at least 16 AWG speaker wire. I believe I used 16, possibly 14, but pretty sure it was 16. Trust me, the 18 awg speaker wire is probably a big part of your issue.:icon_cool:

Do not use the factory wiring.

If I understood your previous post I have a question. How did you use the existing tweeters and why? That right there is going to be a big no no.

I ran 10 awg wire for the amp, but I had a very short run. If I had installed the amp in the fairing, I may have went with 8 awg. There is an adapter/accessory available for the amp to allow an 8 AWG wire hook up.

I used the existing tweeters because I couldn't figure out a good way to mount the new ones. I clipped off the plug that goes into the factory tweeters and wired to the crossover box.

Didn't use any of the existing wiring.

So, it sounds like I have some rewiring to do! Although I'm still a little suspicious that the feed from the head unit to the factory amp might be better quality than the headset output. But, I'm guessing you don't think so, right?

[Jimmytee]

I used the existing tweeters because I couldn't figure out a good way to mount the new ones. I clipped off the plug that goes into the factory tweeters and wired to the crossover box.

Didn't use any of the existing wiring.

So, it sounds like I have some rewiring to do! Although I'm still a little suspicious that the feed from the head unit to the factory amp might be better quality than the headset output. But, I'm guessing you don't think so, right?

Oh, I think it might be possible. Although I did try my system first from the headset and it sounded pretty good.

The factory OEM tweeters are a different impedance. This impedance will affect the crossover points in the crossover. That will definitely have a impact on sound and quality,not to mention just the difference in the quality of the tweeters to begin with.

I removed the factory tweeters and surface mounted the Polk tweeters right over the spot where the factory tweeters normally reside. It required a couple of small holes drilled. one to accommodate the mounting and one for the speaker wire.

The other option is to remove the OEM tweeters. Then remove the Polk tweeters from their plastic case or housing. Then the tweeters can fit up in the OEM spot, but you may have to be a little creative as to how you affix them there. All I know is someone else did them that way. I rather like the looks of the surface mount and it gives you the flexibility to turn the tweeters a little as they do swivel in their housings to aid in pointing them where you want them to be focused.

[SoCal Rich]

Oh, I think it might be possible. Although I did try my system first from the headset and it sounded pretty good.

The factory OEM tweeters are a different impedance. This impedance will affect the crossover points in the crossover. That will definitely have a impact on sound and quality,not to mention just the difference in the quality of the tweeters to begin with.

I removed the factory tweeters and surface mounted the Polk tweeters right over the spot where the factory tweeters normally reside. It required a couple of small holes drilled. one to accommodate the mounting and one for the speaker wire.

The other option is to remove the OEM tweeters. Then remove the Polk tweeters from their plastic case or housing. Then the tweeters can fit up in the OEM spot, but you may have to be a little creative as to how you affix them there. All I know is someone else did them that way. I rather like the looks of the surface mount and it gives you the flexibility to turn the tweeters a little as they do swivel in their housings to aid in pointing them where you want them to be focused.

Sadly I messed up the Polk tweeters trying to remove the casing to try to get them to fit in the space where the original tweeters are! Grrrr. :icon_redface:

[Jimmytee]

To be honest, I hadn't even thought of removing the tweeters from their casing until another member here had done it. I wonder if it is possible to order a replacement tweeter?

[SoCal Rich]

To be honest, I hadn't even thought of removing the tweeters from their casing until another member here had done it. I wonder if it is possible to order a replacement tweeter?

I just emailed Polk to find out.

[SoCal Rich]

Think I'm gonna open er up today and get started. Jimmy, is it hard to find the cable from the head unit to the amplifier to intercept it? Any suggestions for the easiest way?

[Jimmytee]

Think I'm gonna open er up today and get started. Jimmy, is it hard to find the cable from the head unit to the amplifier to intercept it? Any suggestions for the easiest way?

I got mine in the wiring from the amplifier. The OEM amp has a bundle of wires coming from it to a plug that plugs into the factory harness. I unplugged the amp and then cut those wire bundles approx. at the half way point and then identifies which wires were what from the Honda shop manual wiring diagram. The half of that wiring bundle goes to the plug. The other half is still connected to the amp that is now removed. So you identify the wires for the pre out signals and solder in RCA connectors . Then plug it back into the factory harness and voila.I also used the amp power feed in that harness to turn on my new amp at the trigger point. The new amp has separate power feeds from the battery.

[Redlinez]

I gotta say, the idea of a subwoofer on a motorcycle trips me out! I hope to hear one of these setups for myself. I just ordered a 15 F6B in blue and was looking at inexpensive mods and couldn't help but notice this speaker thread. I'll wait and see how it sounds with my full face helmet on and then decide. Thanks for all the great info here!

[Jimmytee]

I gotta say, the idea of a subwoofer on a motorcycle trips me out! I hope to hear one of these setups for myself. I just ordered a 15 F6B in blue and was looking at inexpensive mods and couldn't help but notice this speaker thread. I'll wait and see how it sounds with my full face helmet on and then decide. Thanks for all the great info here!

Just come to the Rally Labor Day Weekend. Lord willing ,I'll be there.:039:

[Redlinez]

I'm almost willing to bet my son has a high school band competition that weekend. I'll check into it though. I'm in Apex NC, Franklin looks like a sweet mountain area.

[SoCal Rich]

To be honest, I hadn't even thought of removing the tweeters from their casing until another member here had done it. I wonder if it is possible to order a replacement tweeter?

Yep, replacements on the way from Polk. That will be my first remediation. If that doesn't do the trick (and I suspect you're right that it will) the speaker wire guage is next. Then assuming everything sounds great, I'm gonna run the cable from the head unit to the new amp so I can have my AVC back. Wish me luck! Happy Memorial Day, everyone.

[ths61]

Yep, replacements on the way from Polk. That will be my first remediation. If that doesn't do the trick (and I suspect you're right that it will) the speaker wire guage is next. Then assuming everything sounds great, I'm gonna run the cable from the head unit to the new amp so I can have my AVC back. Wish me luck! Happy Memorial Day, everyone.

Good luck and Happy Memorial Day to you too and everyone else on board.

[Jimmytee]

Yep, replacements on the way from Polk. That will be my first remediation. If that doesn't do the trick (and I suspect you're right that it will) the speaker wire guage is next. Then assuming everything sounds great, I'm gonna run the cable from the head unit to the new amp so I can have my AVC back. Wish me luck! Happy Memorial Day, everyone.

I would plan to go ahead and replace the speaker wire, if you're still hooked up with the 18 awg wire. :icon_wink:

The hook up to the pre outs is really not that hard.

Have a good Memorial Day weekend and remember why we have Memorial Day everyone.

[SoCal Rich]

I would plan to go ahead and replace the speaker wire, if you're still hooked up with the 18 awg wire. :icon_wink:

The hook up to the pre outs is really not that hard.

Have a good Memorial Day weekend and remember why we have Memorial Day everyone.

Ok, well, the tweeters did the trick, it now sounds really good. I figured out how to mount them where the old ones were located, by cutting away some plastic and securing them with two tiny screws each. Here are a few pics.

1428314284

Next task is to connect to the head unit pre outs. I had the back open and looked at the back of the head unit but decided to wait for another day. I might just intercept the pre outs there and connect them to the headset outputs, thinking I can avoid running a bunch of cable to the new amp. This way I should get my AVC back. What do you think, Jimmytee?

[Jimmytee]

Ok, well, the tweeters did the trick, it now sounds really good. I figured out how to mount them where the old ones were located, by cutting away some plastic and securing them with two tiny screws each. Here are a few pics.

1428314284

Next task is to connect to the head unit pre outs. I had the back open and looked at the back of the head unit but decided to wait for another day. I might just intercept the pre outs there and connect them to the headset outputs, thinking I can avoid running a bunch of cable to the new amp. This way I should get my AVC back. What do you think, Jimmytee?

Glad you got the tweeters hooked up. Was pretty sure that would make a tremendous difference.

I'm not quite sure what you were asking about the pre outs and hooking them up to the headset outputs. The only place to get the audio pre outs from the factory system is from somewhere in the wiring between the Audio Unit and the OEM amplifier. The Audio unit is located under the rubber flap under where the passenger seat is. The amp under the rear fender. If you could clear up what you're asking, I'll try to help.

[SoCal Rich]

Glad you got the tweeters hooked up. Was pretty sure that would make a tremendous difference.

I'm not quite sure what you were asking about the pre outs and hooking them up to the headset outputs. The only place to get the audio pre outs from the factory system is from somewhere in the wiring between the Audio Unit and the OEM amplifier. The Audio unit is located under the rubber flap under where the passenger seat is. The amp under the rear fender. If you could clear up what you're asking, I'll try to help.

So, I was able to see the back of the audio unit and the 24 pin plug and the 20 pin plug. The 24 contains the pre outs to the amp and the 20 contains the outs to the headset cable. So I would intercept the pre outs on the audio unit side and connect them to the headset outputs on the side that leads to the headset plug.

[Jimmytee]

So, I was able to see the back of the audio unit and the 24 pin plug and the 20 pin plug. The 24 contains the pre outs to the amp and the 20 contains the outs to the headset cable. So I would intercept the pre outs on the audio unit side and connect them to the headset outputs on the side that leads to the headset plug.

I would be hesitant to do that. For one thing, the pre out signals of the Audio Unit have separate positive and neg/ground wires where the headsets only have a common for both channels. It may work but it also may not or provide an inferior signal.All we have to go by are the wiring diagrams and schematics. I can't say if in the electronics, the ground or negative portion of the pre out signals would be the same electrically as the ground of the headset outputs.
Personally, I think it would be easier to just wire into the pre outs and then run one cable with the 2 RCAs. You mounted your amp in the fairing correct?

[SoCal Rich]

I would be hesitant to do that. For one thing, the pre out signals of the Audio Unit have separate positive and neg/ground wires where the headsets only have a common for both channels. It may work but it also may not or provide an inferior signal.All we have to go by are the wiring diagrams and schematics. I can't say if in the electronics, the ground or negative portion of the pre out signals would be the same electrically as the ground of the headset outputs.
Personally, I think it would be easier to just wire into the pre outs and then run one cable with the 2 RCAs. You mounted your amp in the fairing correct?

Amp is in the right compartment, easy to get cable to. So, I could just clip the four pre out wires from the audio unit and connect them to 2 RCAs, correct? Seems easier to get to the audio unit than the original amp to grab those four wires.

[Jimmytee]

Amp is in the right compartment, easy to get cable to. So, I could just clip the four pre out wires from the audio unit and connect them to 2 RCAs, correct? Seems easier to get to the audio unit than the original amp to grab those four wires.

It depends on how you define easier. There is more body work parts to remove , but the wires themselves seemed easier to pick out of the harness to the amp. Either way will work. I actually ran four RCAs as I use the rear channels to supply a signal for the sub. I am using the 4 channel amp with the two rear channels bridged for the sub at 175 watts RMS. I will say I had intentions to mount the new amp in the OEM amp location, but after trying it, I wasn't satisfied with it there. Since you know you're not putting it there and if you can get into the harness by the Audio unit to separate the wires you need , then go for it.:yes:

[SoCal Rich]

It depends on how you define easier. There is more body work parts to remove , but the wires themselves seemed easier to pick out of the harness to the amp. Either way will work. I actually ran four RCAs as I use the rear channels to supply a signal for the sub. I am using the 4 channel amp with the two rear channels bridged for the sub at 175 watts RMS. I will say I had intentions to mount the new amp in the OEM amp location, but after trying it, I wasn't satisfied with it there. Since you know you're not putting it there and if you can get into the harness by the Audio unit to separate the wires you need , then go for it.:yes:

Do you remove a side bag to get to the original amp?

[Jimmytee]

Do you remove a side bag to get to the original amp?

No, but everything in the rear has to come off.

[SoCal Rich]

Amp is in the right compartment, easy to get cable to. So, I could just clip the four pre out wires from the audio unit and connect them to 2 RCAs, correct? Seems easier to get to the audio unit than the original amp to grab those four wires.

Finally got it done! Removed the seat, opened the head unit box. Located the four wires coming out of the head unit (attached to the lower left side plug going into the head unit) and cut them and soldered the leads from the two RCAs so that the RCA plugs are coming from the head unit. Fairly easy to route them to the right side compartment where I have stored the amp.

Very pleased, and very happy to have AVC back again! I feel like the signal is slightly stronger than the one going to the headsets, and I had to reduce the gain adjustment on the amp to get rid of the clipping/distortion. Overall I'm getting slightly more volume.

End of project! Hurray!

[Jimmytee]

Yeah. it's more work, but I think it's the best route for optimum sound. Thanks for the update. Glad it worked out for you.

[seadog]

For less that 100 bucks I put in that Sony NWZ 385 Mp3 player and so far I've loaded 51 CD's on it and the sound is incredible, much better than listening to the FM. You can turn it up high enough to blow you off the bike. I can listen to music at 80 mph without any problem at all. It all really depends on your listening ability though, ears are kind of an important factor in this endeavor. My old ear, after listening to diesel engines for 36 years are definitely not 100%, I have to turn up everything louder than my family likes it.
So if its loud to me then its probably pretty loud to someone with excellent hearing. JMHO

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Just added a Polk PAD 2000.2 - Two channel amp(100 watts RMS per channel- certified) in my left bag. Used the passenger head set plug, converted to RCA's as input. Pretty good signal. Amp and Polk DXI 651 speakers add much quality to the sound and can be heard clearly at a couple blocks away. Neighbors love me... 92 Db at 1 watt. Good for a mid road speaker.
Very loud but clear if desired.

I have a pair of Premium Polk MM 651 speakers, but can't yet get myself to modify them to fit. They have a wider basket and require a spacer to fit the magnet, which is provided.They will also not allow the shelter- speaker cover to snap back on tight, so that will require some trimming. If I go there?

On a scale of 1 to 10, the DXI651speakers with the Polk amp combo, are a solid 8.5.
No comparison to OEM or the just a speaker upgrade without an amp.
I'm done with one for a while..
J

[Greg O]

Why won't Honda come up with a plug and play high end stereo upgrade like Harleys have.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Why won't Honda come up with a plug and play high end stereo upgrade like Harleys have.

Good question...

The Harley systems also need upgrading from oem and are not cheap to do.

There are more offerings in plug and play..

Exp with my SG anyway.

J

[DaWadd]

Maybe off topic here, but if you want to test the sound quality play Ted Nugents "Stranglehold" . Even on my OEM system it sounds amazing."coffee"

[Jimmytee]

For less that 100 bucks I put in that Sony NWZ 385 Mp3 player and so far I've loaded 51 CD's on it and the sound is incredible, much better than listening to the FM. You can turn it up high enough to blow you off the bike. I can listen to music at 80 mph without any problem at all. It all really depends on your listening ability though, ears are kind of an important factor in this endeavor. My old ear, after listening to diesel engines for 36 years are definitely not 100%, I have to turn up everything louder than my family likes it.
So if its loud to me then its probably pretty loud to someone with excellent hearing. JMHO

Not sure what you're talking about. I've got 30 gigs of music currently through a flash drive hooked to the USB. That's waaaaay more than what you're talking about and it costs a lot less then $100.

We're talking about speakers and amps, not the source for the music.

[seadog]

Not sure what you're talking about. I've got 30 gigs of music currently through a flash drive hooked to the USB. That's waaaaay more than what you're talking about and it costs a lot less then $100.

We're talking about speakers and amps, not the source for the music.

I still have 12 gigs of empty space after loading 51 cd's but I was talking about the price as much as the sound I am hearing, much richer and fuller sound than listening to the stock FM. These guys are spending way more than 100 bucks. Putting in amplifiers isn't cheap, How is the sound with your flash drive? I have a flash drive a friend made up for me but haven't put it in yet, I should do that and compare the sound quality.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

All the music I listen to has been down loaded at the best baud rate to a excellent quality flash drive. I think its close to the best I can do to reproduce signal quality. But
the amp and speakers push the sound quality to a different level. Clear music at medium volume levels doesn't do it for me when comparing clear music at high volume.
J

[ths61]

...

I have a pair of Premium Polk MM 651 speakers, but can't yet get myself to modify them to fit. They have a wider basket and require a spacer to fit the magnet, which is provided.They will also not allow the shelter- speaker cover to snap back on tight, so that will require some trimming. If I go there?

...

Do you know if you could get by with a thinner spacer (to seat the speaker deeper) ?

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Do you know if you could get by with a thinner spacer (to seat the speaker deeper) ?

Not sure which speakers you are thinking about but the opening in the dash is just under 2 1/2" deep so most all speakers except the MM will fit for mount depth. The MM measure 2 5/8" so at least an 1/8" spacer is needed. If you select a " shallow mount" speaker, be advised you give away capacity with most speakers. RMS and Peak wattage because of the smaller, shallow magnet. Don't know if this helps.
Good luck
J

[ths61]

Not sure which speakers you are thinking about but the opening in the dash is just under 2 1/2" deep so most all speakers except the MM will fit for mount depth. The MM measure 2 5/8" so at least an 1/8" spacer is needed. If you select a " shallow mount" speaker, be advised you give away capacity with most speakers. RMS and Peak wattage because of the smaller, shallow magnet. Don't know if this helps.
Good luck
J

Thanks, you answered my question.

I was referring to the MM651 from your quote that I posted (updated quote in red). From pictures of the MM651 spacers that I have seen on a Goldwing install, they are a lot thicker than 1/8" so it sounds like the speakers could be seated closer with a 1/8" spacer which should help with the dash cover clearance issue.

I am happy with the stock speakers when riding without traffic, but in traffic or with loud pipes, the stock speakers just don't cut it.

1514015141151421514315144

The guy who did the Goldwing install used the stock speakers as a template to cut the MM651's and their spacers. This appears to have taken off a lot more meat than what was necessary. A template could probably be made which just accounts for the minimum amount of material to be removed which should help preserve the structural integrity of the speaker.

[Jimmytee]

I still have 12 gigs of empty space after loading 51 cd's but I was talking about the price as much as the sound I am hearing, much richer and fuller sound than listening to the stock FM. These guys are spending way more than 100 bucks. Putting in amplifiers isn't cheap, How is the sound with your flash drive? I have a flash drive a friend made up for me but haven't put it in yet, I should do that and compare the sound quality.

That's what I'm saying, I can put even more music on the flash drive. I think most are aware and utilize the USB input features of these bikes and that the FM performance of the tuners are less than spectacular.

What I am saying is that regardless of which source you use to listen to music , it still has to be amplified and reproduced through speakers. If you are satisfied with the stock arrangement then more power to you. However , some are not and are looking to or have already upgraded the OEM speakers and amplifier. Come to the Rally in Franklin and listen to mine, then determine whether you are still satisfied.:icon_wink::icon_biggrin:

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Thanks, you answered my question.

I was referring to the MM651 from your quote that I posted (updated quote in red). From pictures of the MM651 spacers that I have seen on a Goldwing install, they are a lot thicker than 1/8" so it sounds like the speakers could be seated closer with a 1/8" spacer which should help with the dash cover clearance issue.

I am happy with the stock speakers when riding without traffic, but in traffic or with loud pipes, the stock speakers just don't cut it.

1514015141151421514315144

The guy who did the Goldwing install used the stock speakers as a template to cut the MM651's and their spacers. This appears to have taken off a lot more meat than what was necessary. A template could probably be made which just accounts for the minimum amount of material to be removed which should help preserve the structural integrity of the speaker.

Hmmm.
My DXI 651 speakers sound great, but I have a pair of MM651 that are just screaming to me the amp needs us... These pictures are making me feel better about cutting them to fit. My amp is 100 watts + certified RMS and so are the MM. The DXI are rated at 80 and though are capable of playing very loud, I can push them too hard. Sounds like I'm justifying...
Anyway, good luck to all who have led us down this path and those just going.
Ride hard but wear a helmet.
J

[choptop]

While on my Yellowstone trip I had a chance to catch a listen to a friends stereo on his Streat Glide I think, newer Harley anyway, and it sounded soooo much better than mine.:icon_frown: I will do some type of stereo upgrade this winter.

[CoCoKola]

While on my Yellowstone trip I had a chance to catch a listen to a friends stereo on his Streat Glide I think, newer Harley anyway, and it sounded soooo much better than mine.:icon_frown: I will do some type of stereo upgrade this winter.


I'm starting over with this post. I have the MM6501 not the MM651. I didn't even realize there was a difference. I'm looking up specs now to see if they are the same dimensions. I also blew up the photos THS61 posted. I was on my mobile and didn't realize what was posted. I'll keep you posted, unless anyone has info on the 6501 mounting ;)

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

You still have to trim the basket to mount a 6.5" speaker, regardless of who makes them.
3351
Jim

[CoCoKola]

You still have to trim the basket to mount a 6.5" speaker, regardless of who makes them.
16102
Jim

Wow, thanks Jim.. that looks a lot more minimal than I was thinking. I keep struggling with "basket" - meaning the large diameter? Nothing at the magnet side of the speaker?

thanks all!

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Wow, thanks Jim.. that looks a lot more minimal than I was thinking. I keep struggling with "basket" - meaning the large diameter? Nothing at the magnet side of the speaker?

thanks all!

No trimming at or around the magnet, just the outer diameter of the basket, in 2 areas (9 & 3 o'clock positions) All 6.5 speakers are just that, at least 6 1/2 to 6 5/8" diameter. Very simple mod. Take your time.
Jim

[CoCoKola]

Wow, thanks Jim.. that looks a lot more minimal than I was thinking. I keep struggling with "basket" - meaning the large diameter? Nothing at the magnet side of the speaker?

thanks all!

Hmm.. 4/16 deeper the 6501 (http://www.polkaudio.com/mm6501/d/1149C2772) is against the 651 (http://www.polkaudio.com/mm651/d/1151). ;(
Grill height 1 1/16" vs. 13/16"

And now one of my speaker's receiving nut came loose from the frame ;) I do love learning ;)

[hgslayr]

Just got done installing my Polk Audio 651 speakers...What a pain in the azz, They look good and definitely sound better just dont know if it was worth the cussing and frustration...Only installed 3 of the 4 screws because getting the 4th would require more grinding and 3 screws makes them very secure ...Good mod just glad its done...

[hgslayr]

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q567/curtisstates47hgslatr47/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-02-19-48-38-1_zps5tm3sj06.png (http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/curtisstates47hgslatr47/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-02-19-48-38-1_zps5tm3sj06.png.html)

[ths61]

Just got done installing my Polk Audio 651 speakers...What a pain in the azz, They look good and definitely sound better just dont know if it was worth the cussing and frustration...Only installed 3 of the 4 screws because getting the 4th would require more grinding and 3 screws makes them very secure ...Good mod just glad its done...

Did you add an amp, or just the speaker upgrade ?

[hgslayr]

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q567/curtisstates47hgslatr47/Mobile%20Uploads/20150902_170401_zpsctynurqy.jpg (http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/curtisstates47hgslatr47/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150902_170401_zpsctynurqy.jpg.html)

Only the speakers at this point....

[hgslayr]

Spent a little time listening to the speakers connected to my ipod and I must say the sound is much more crisper and clean even without an amp but I am going to check into an amplifier as long as it doesn't take up a bunch of space in the bags otherwise I think I am satisfied with the sound improvement

[GiddyupF6B]

Spent a little time listening to the speakers connected to my ipod and I must say the sound is much more crisper and clean even without an amp but I am going to check into an amplifier as long as it doesn't take up a bunch of space in the bags otherwise I think I am satisfied with the sound improvement

Did you hook the factory tweeters back up? Has anyone who has the upgraded to J&M speakers already done this upgrade? My J&M's sound a lot better than stock, I just wonder if these would be that much better than the J&M's to make it worth the effort........

[hgslayr]

Getting them to fit was a pain requiring some grinding around the opening on the motorcycle...They do sound much better but now Im thinking an amp would make them sound much better and possibly a 6 or 8in. Bass tube in the bags but dont wanna cut holes in them...

[hgslayr]

Yes I did hook the factory tweeters back up

[Jimmytee]

Getting them to fit was a pain requiring some grinding around the opening on the motorcycle...They do sound much better but now Im thinking an amp would make them sound much better and possibly a 6 or 8in. Bass tube in the bags but dont wanna cut holes in them...

You won't get much useful sound out of the bags without the bags being vented in some way. I vented mine in three locations. 2 of them are hidden and one is visible. I simply drilled holes in the pattern of a small circle in these three locations. I covered those locations with a product from Frogzkins that allows air to travel but not water. 336616167

Yes, an amp is needed to realize proper sound from those speakers.

Not sure about a Bazooka bass tube. I have really been impressed with the little self contained JL Audio 6.5 " Sub I use in my left saddlebag.

The sub on mine actually sounds better with the lid closed.:icon_wink:

[hgslayr]

Nice job...

[ths61]

JimmyTee's stereo upgrade is the best I have seen to date on the F6B (upgraded speakers, upgraded head unit, clean pre-amp inputs(not speaker level step down transformers), detachable sub, upgraded amps, upgraded wiring).

Also see that J&M has pushed their F6B speaker availability date out another month to 10/1/2015. They missed a complete riding season.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Adding MM or DXI 6.5" Polk speakers without an amp is missing the point of their potential quality, completely.
Also disconnect the factory tweeter, too.
No amp, stay with oem or JM.
Jim

[hgslayr]

Dirt...rode the bike today and the Polks are a huge improvement without an amp and using my ipod for the additional power...Clean,crisp and loud. Definitely worth the effort to fit them and Ill be 2 steps closer when ready to add an amp...

[ths61]

Dirt...rode the bike today and the Polks are a huge improvement without an amp and using my ipod for the additional power...Clean,crisp and loud. Definitely worth the effort to fit them and Ill be 2 steps closer when ready to add an amp...

Are you using a higher volume level to get the same loudness ?

What number setting were your running them at ?

Do they have more or less bass response to them than stock ?

TIA

[hgslayr]

Better bass, better mids and tweets..all around better sound and noemal level before was around 22 in the freeway with my 11 in. Slip streamer windshield...Now I can hear and feel the music at 15...although a sub and an amp would be nice...The OEM speakers sounded like they were in a cardboard box compared to the Pilks...

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Good...
The level of sound improvement; quality and volume, are exponentially better by adding an amp over just the speaker upgrade alone.

Jim

[hgslayr]

:agree:

[JesseS]

I can't remember the last time I used the fairing speakers, I use the Sat radio in my Garmin for music and have in helmet speakers, and I don't use that a lot. I spend my time enjoying the ride and the bike, don't need much in the way of music.

[stevenolts]

I think the J&M speakers I ordered are now back ordered until Jan.

[stevenolts]

I see different varieties of Polk marine 6.5" speakers.

Which ones will fit and do you reccomend?

Polk Audio AA2652-A MM651UM 6.5-Inch Coax Ultra Marine Speaker (https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA2652--MM651UM-6-5-Inch/dp/B001E5PN2A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1444479348&sr=8-3&keywords=polk+marine+6.5%22+speakers) $137.99 pair
Polk Audio DB651 6.5"/6.75" 2-Way Marine Certified db Series Car Speakers with Liquid Cooled Silk Tweeters (https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1444479348&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+marine+6.5%22+speakers) $54.99 pair
Polk Audio AA2651-A MM651 6.5-Inch Coax Speaker (https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA2651--6-5-Inch-Speaker/dp/B001C3P6FI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1444479348&sr=8-4&keywords=polk+marine+6.5%22+speakers) $123.95 pair

[CoCoKola]

I see different varieties of Polk marine 6.5" speakers.

Which ones will fit and do you (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C3K7I4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00)reccomend (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C3K7I4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00)?

(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C3K7I4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00)Polk Audio AA2652-A MM651UM 6.5-Inch Coax Ultra Marine Speaker (https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA2652--MM651UM-6-5-Inch/dp/B001E5PN2A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1444479348&sr=8-3&keywords=polk+marine+6.5%22+speakers) $137.99 pair


(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C3K7I4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00)Polk Audio DB651 6.5"/6.75" 2-Way Marine Certified (https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1444479348&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+marine+6.5%22+speakers)db (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C3K7I4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00) Series Car Speakers with Liquid Cooled Silk Tweeters $54.99 pair


(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C3K7I4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00)Polk Audio AA2651-A MM651 6.5-Inch Coax Speaker (https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA2651--6-5-Inch-Speaker/dp/B001C3P6FI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1444479348&sr=8-4&keywords=polk+marine+6.5%22+speakers) $123.95 pair



There is also what I (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C3K7I4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00)bought:The (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C3K7I4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00) Polk Audio MM6501 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C3K7I4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C3K7I4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

[stevenolts]

Polk Audio AA6514-A MM6501 6.5-Inch System Speaker SystemThese look nice!!!
Are these marine waterproof speakers?

How do they sound?
What amp did you use?

Steve

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I see different varieties of Polk marine 6.5" speakers.

Which ones will fit and do you reccomend?

Polk Audio AA2652-A MM651UM 6.5-Inch Coax Ultra Marine Speaker (https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA2652--MM651UM-6-5-Inch/dp/B001E5PN2A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1444479348&sr=8-3&keywords=polk+marine+6.5%22+speakers) $137.99 pair
Polk Audio DB651 6.5"/6.75" 2-Way Marine Certified db Series Car Speakers with Liquid Cooled Silk Tweeters (https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1444479348&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+marine+6.5%22+speakers) $54.99 pair
Polk Audio AA2651-A MM651 6.5-Inch Coax Speaker (https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA2651--6-5-Inch-Speaker/dp/B001C3P6FI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1444479348&sr=8-4&keywords=polk+marine+6.5%22+speakers) $123.95 pair

All will fit except the UM 651
All require trimming.
The MM are the premium speaker.
They come both as individual components or with the tweeter mounted with the woofer. Both have separate crossovers to mount.
The DB are good. DXI great, MM exceptional
MM are hardest to install.


J

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

All will fit except the UM 651
All require trimming.
The MM are the premium speaker.
They come both as individual components or with the tweeter mounted with the woofer. Both have separate crossovers to mount.
The DB are good. DXI great, MM exceptional
MM are hardest to install.


J

According to Polk, all are Marine rated. The UM are made specifically for boats and wet enviornments. They have the grill and basket as one piece.
I'm replacing my DXI 651 Polks with a pair of MM 651, today.

I have a Polk PA D2000.2 amp. It's certified at 100 watts per channel RMS and 200 bridged. Very good amp.
The MM 651 also are rated for 100 watts per channel. RMS. They are a perfectly matched combo. The amp still has power for additional speakers or a sub woofer.

The MM 6501 which I don't have, are component speakers and have appx 50 watt higher RMS and Peak power rating along with adjustable crossovers.
I didn't want to find places to mount the tweeter, therefore I chose the MM 651.

Good luck in your choice.
Back to my project or as the wife says, obsession....
J

[CoCoKola]

According to Polk, all are Marine rated. The UM are made specifically for boats and wet enviornments. They have the grill and basket as one piece.
I'm replacing my DXI 651 Polks with a pair of MM 651, today.

I have a Polk PA D2000.2 amp. It's certified at 100 watts per channel RMS and 200 bridged. Very good amp.
The MM 651 also are rated for 100 watts per channel. RMS. They are a perfectly matched combo. The amp still has power for additional speakers or a sub woofer.

The MM 6501 which I don't have, are component speakers and have appx 50 watt higher RMS and Peak power rating along with adjustable crossovers.
I didn't want to find places to mount the tweeter, therefore I chose the MM 651.

Good luck in your choice.
Back to my project or as the wife says, obsession....
J
to be fair, I have priorities switch so I have not been able to mount these yet. I have templates to cut them and will start on it this week. the tweeters I fit where the stock tweeters go, but you have to destory the housing they are in and trim the stock cover to fit. they fit nicely and sound great though.

[Jimmytee]

According to Polk, all are Marine rated. The UM are made specifically for boats and wet enviornments. They have the grill and basket as one piece.
I'm replacing my DXI 651 Polks with a pair of MM 651, today.

I have a Polk PA D2000.2 amp. It's certified at 100 watts per channel RMS and 200 bridged. Very good amp.
The MM 651 also are rated for 100 watts per channel. RMS. They are a perfectly matched combo. The amp still has power for additional speakers or a sub woofer.

The MM 6501 which I don't have, are component speakers and have appx 50 watt higher RMS and Peak power rating along with adjustable crossovers.
I didn't want to find places to mount the tweeter, therefore I chose the MM 651.

Good luck in your choice.
Back to my project or as the wife says, obsession....
J
This is an older pic, but I mounted the tweeters right over where the OEM tweeters were. Some put them in the OEM locations for the flush look. (Since the pic was taken , I changed out the 5.25" woofers for the 6.5" and added the Clarion head unit.)
3511

[CoCoKola]

as far as the amp, this is the smallest high output box with great specs is the mvp4. I have not looked at the amp Jim mentioned above, it is likely better specs, higher output.. this one fit the wallet and killer sound.


http://www.amazon.com/NVX-MVPA4-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B00H2SFQXE

[CoCoKola]

as far as the amp, this is the smallest high output box with great specs is the mvp4. I have not looked at the amp Jim mentioned above, it is likely better specs, higher output.. this one fit the wallet and killer sound.


http://www.amazon.com/NVX-MVPA4-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B00H2SFQXE

[Jimmytee]

as far as the amp, this is the smallest high output box with great specs is the mvp4. I have not looked at the amp Jim mentioned above, it is likely better specs, higher output.. this one fit the wallet and killer sound.


http://www.amazon.com/NVX-MVPA4-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B00H2SFQXE

That is the amp I used to power the front Polks and MM components and the JL sub in the back. Anyone that was at the rally can testify how effective it is.:icon_wink: The ratings are actually very conservative as bench testing by others has shown it far surpasses it's rated performance. I've been pretty impressed with it's performance. My Valkyrie has a pretty potent Kenwood amp that is also very good. It's hard to do a real listening comparison though between the two as they are powering different speakers. The Kenwood is powering 4) 5.25" and 2) 6.5" Kickers.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

According to Polk, all are Marine rated. The UM are made specifically for boats and wet enviornments. They have the grill and basket as one piece.
I'm replacing my DXI 651 Polks with a pair of MM 651, today.

I have a Polk PA D2000.2 amp. It's certified at 100 watts per channel RMS and 200 bridged. Very good amp.
The MM 651 also are rated for 100 watts per channel. RMS. They are a perfectly matched combo. The amp still has power for additional speakers or a sub woofer.

The MM 6501 which I don't have, are component speakers and have appx 50 watt higher RMS and Peak power rating along with adjustable crossovers.
I didn't want to find places to mount the tweeter, therefore I chose the MM 651.

Good luck in your choice.
Back to my project or as the wife says, obsession....
J


Macht up one MM 651 today, what a job. Lots of surgical trimming required to make the shelter fit correctly.

I did test fire it along side of the Polk DXI 651. First of all the volume is deafening 10 ft from the bike set at 15. Above that can be heard by my neighbor over a block away. What's cool about Polk is they don't distort at high volume. Ok, the MM have a bit better bass and somewhat warmer sound than the DXI. The DXI have an in your face
sound which can be made to your liking with bass, treble and amp controls. Anyway, the MM 's are a 10 and the DXI
are pretty darn good too and much easier to install.
My Polk PA D 2002.2 amp drives them both perfectly.

Footnote; The smaller amp Jimmie used does spec out very well for its size, but wasn't available when I was gunning for the black bike amp.
J

[CoCoKola]

I've put many hours into trying to install the Polk MM6501s. I finally got something that I was really happy with, until i did a test run of the speakers. They sound like they are farting instead of solid bass. they aren't bottoming out, I tried sealing the enclosure and held them as tighly against the frame with no improvement. I'm not sure if I have defective speakers or what to do. After putting all this time into it and finding the fit to be insane, I'm deflated. I'm not sure what to do next.

-R

[Jimmytee]

I've put many hours into trying to install the Polk MM6501s. I finally got something that I was really happy with, until i did a test run of the speakers. They sound like they are farting instead of solid bass. they aren't bottoming out, I tried sealing the enclosure and held them as tighly against the frame with no improvement. I'm not sure if I have defective speakers or what to do. After putting all this time into it and finding the fit to be insane, I'm deflated. I'm not sure what to do next.

-R

I had a heck of a time with mine as well. I'm not sure it was hours, but it was a trial in patience. I had to shave quite a bit of the frame away, being careful to leave enough space where the woofer surround is adhered to the frame. Then there is the depth of basket, that even with the small neodymium magnet, required a spacer , plus I used a rubber gasket material to seal both the speaker side and the spacer side. Then there was the screws, which used some longer stainless screws. The 5.25" were definitely an easier fit. They sound awesome though. Not sure why yours are not sounding right. Mine are powered by an different amp, and I was sure to get a good seal on the speakers. Of course, while the speakers do sound good, they are definitely enhanced by the subwoofer.

[MisterB]

I've put many hours into trying to install the Polk MM6501s. I finally got something that I was really happy with, until i did a test run of the speakers. They sound like they are farting instead of solid bass. they aren't bottoming out, I tried sealing the enclosure and held them as tighly against the frame with no improvement. I'm not sure if I have defective speakers or what to do. After putting all this time into it and finding the fit to be insane, I'm deflated. I'm not sure what to do next.

-R
Did you stuff the cabinets with polyfill or other cabinet dampening material? It's the white fluffy stuff you see in speakers. You can get something similar at walmart in the arts and crafts dept.
I notice some notes resonate horribly with the stock speakers.
If you've ever been in a big building and a truck drives by you might hear standing waves, that's when certain frequencies reinforce themselves as they bounce around inside an area.
Then there's resonant frequency. If the plastic enclosure is not rigid enough it will vibrate at frequencies that match its resonant frequency or frequencies.
I plan to stuff mine like crazy to see if it smooths out the response. Every bass note of "Papa was a Rolling Stone" plays at a different volume!
I'm no expert, you can probably find more info here. (https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=speaker+cabinet+damping+material)

If it's not the above issues; the farting noise could be over-extension of the speaker cone, the cone could have a wire too close to it that it's bouncing off when driven, it may be defective and the "spider"(the surround that is underneath and surrounds the voice coil) could have come loose. Maybe you'll hear from another Polk user who went through this. I'm still on the fence as I don't expect much from such small enclosures. May just try better tweeter and stuffed cabs before committing to new speakers.

[CoCoKola]

this is either defective speakers, or these require a sealed box. I'm going to call polk tomorrow for advice. I don't think the hacking did any damage, despite my lack of experience fabricating, I'm highly technical but with electronics and computers.

in any case, stay tuned. I did use rubber seals on both sides,I tried sealing the two holes behind Wenger you mount the speakers. (I suspect they are not sealed, but.. ) this is not a power amp problem, the problem starts at 5 on the volume and just gets worse with more power. the coil is not fried as it is very sensitive even at lower power. it Just sounds like crap. I'll keep diving in and let you know.

[CoCoKola]

mrB

thanx for the reply. I know exactly what you are describing. this isn't a standing wave which is typically when you have two sound sources and you have cancellation or frequencies that re enforce.. nor a resonating frequencies like you described.

I use a sweeping sine wave generator to test for this. check your play store or Apple store for a sweeping sine wave generator. try 700hz to 40hz and listen for volume of the tone getting louder or softer. it should generally get quieter but gently.

I.May try stuffing it once I get this farting noise fixed. if it was over extension, which is exactly what it sounds like, I should be able to turn down the volume and it go away. not so much.

thanx everyone!

[Jimmytee]

The enclosures are not sealed. Mine sound awesome, no polyfill. The poly fill mainly aids in enhancing bass by tricking the sound wave into acting like their in a larger enclosure than they are, plus some dampening it might add. The sound you describe , seems more like a problem than a characteristic of how these speakers should sound. Are you sure you didn't trim too close to the speaker surround and possibly have an unsecured speaker surround? That would cause the sound you are talking about.

[MisterB]

I use a sweeping sine wave generator to test for this. check your play store or Apple store for a sweeping sine wave generator. try 700hz to 40hz and listen for volume of the tone getting louder or softer. it should generally get quieter but gently.

Ha! I wondered if such an app existed buy never got around to checking, thanks for the tip.
I'm fixing to do an omnibus farkle job on the F6B to get it all done in one fell swoop. (dream on!) Heated grips, 12v and USB here and there, maybe some lighting, and speaker upgrade if I can settle on one. I really don't need more power as I don't listen very loud, but would prefer more accurate reproduction if possible.
Subscribed :popcorn:

[CoCoKola]

Jimmy.. totally agree about cut too close causing the sound, but I inspected both speakers closely and can't find a problem. normally you can hold the speaker in different places to settle down the area that causes the problem if there is a rip or cut, but no dice. the only way to make it better is to hold the entire speaker inward a ways.. like maybe the atmosphere of Jupiter it might work..lol

never ran into this one..

thanks again for all the 💡 s. keep them coming!

[Jimmytee]

Jimmy.. totally agree about cut too close causing the sound, but I inspected both speakers closely and can't find a problem. normally you can hold the speaker in different places to settle down the area that causes the problem if there is a rip or cut, but no dice. the only way to make it better is to hold the entire speaker inward a ways.. like maybe the atmosphere of Jupiter it might work..lol

never ran into this one..

thanks again for all the  s. keep them coming!

Well, could be something wrong with the voice coil. Usually what I'm talking about happens when the speaker has over heated from being over driven. However I imagine there could be a defect. I wouldn't expect a defect to be in both of the speakers though. Have you tried both drivers?

[Jimmytee]

Ha! I wondered if such an app existed buy never got around to checking, thanks for the tip.
I'm fixing to do an omnibus farkle job on the F6B to get it all done in one fell swoop. (dream on!) Heated grips, 12v and USB here and there, maybe some lighting, and speaker upgrade if I can settle on one. I really don't need more power as I don't listen very loud, but would prefer more accurate reproduction if possible.
Subscribed :popcorn:

More power isn't always just about volume. In fact, "accurate reproduction", can rely on proper power. The Polk ,MM series anyways, need more power than what the stock OEM amplifier is capable of in order operate correctly. IMHO,I wouldn't pick the MM series unless you were adding an amplifier. I think there might be some who have installed these without adding an amp, and they might have found it to be ok.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Rob,
Something I was thinking about while playing with my MM 651 Polks. The MM are a 2 ohm rated speaker, the OEM are 3.7 ohm, I believe. Don't know for sure, but my guess the oem amp is rated for 4 ohm speakers and the MM operate at a lower resistance level, whereby they reguire more power with less resistance, hence the burp sound you seem to be getting.
I'm not sure the net effect on the oem amp either. I never thought about it because I installed a 2 channel, 2 ohm amp that will handle 4 ohm loads, but I specifically matched it to the 2 ohm MM 651.
Anyway, I'd suggest perhaps it's a resistance issue( too much resistance-too ltitle power). I've heard no others trying MM Polks with an OEM amp.
Good luck

Jim

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

According to Polk, all are Marine rated. The UM are made specifically for boats and wet enviornments. They have the grill and basket as one piece.
I'm replacing my DXI 651 Polks with a pair of MM 651, today.

I have a Polk PA D2000.2 amp. It's certified at 100 watts per channel RMS and 200 bridged. Very good amp.
The MM 651 also are rated for 100 watts per channel. RMS. They are a perfectly matched combo. The amp still has power for additional speakers or a sub woofer.

The MM 6501 which I don't have, are component speakers and have appx 50 watt higher RMS and Peak power rating along with adjustable crossovers.
I didn't want to find places to mount the tweeter, therefore I chose the MM 651.

Good luck in your choice.
Back to my project or as the wife says, obsession....
J

17270
Polk MM 651 work in progress trimming to fit. They kick serious but even un mounted.
I wouldn't however, reccomend them to anyone without an aftermarket amp and the patience of a snail. They are a butch to make fit. Go with DXI or DB Polk 6.5 speakers.
Do not use these MM with OEM amp. The speakers are 2 ohm and OEM system is likely not compatable.
I'm out
Jim

[ths61]

Maybe Polk Audio can offer us a group buy of pre-trimmed MM's ?

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Maybe Polk Audio can offer us a group buy of pre-trimmed MM's ?

I actually asked today, a guy I've come to know with Polk.
He said a better chance would be for someone to make a spacer or adapter. Their target market is to wide and varied in application.

[tonycarver]

we had a zumo GPS installed through the dealership. it has an option to add an S/D card for tunes. we downloaded a bunch of tunes 300+ set the GPS volume settings at ALMOST max for the "media" option and i can tell you, at 120KPH (70-80mph for or southern riders) its damn loud. by using the volume leveling(?) option CAS i think it is, turns itself down at the stoplights and cranks it self back up when you get going again. no fussing with adding amplifiers or new speakers. it has to be at least 3 times louder than the radio. just MHO.

[Jimmytee]

we had a zumo GPS installed through the dealership. it has an option to add an S/D card for tunes. we downloaded a bunch of tunes 300+ set the GPS volume settings at ALMOST max for the "media" option and i can tell you, at 120KPH (70-80mph for or southern riders) its damn loud. by using the volume leveling(?) option CAS i think it is, turns itself down at the stoplights and cranks it self back up when you get going again. no fussing with adding amplifiers or new speakers. it has to be at least 3 times louder than the radio. just MHO.

Have you tried the USB input in the left saddebag? It is also much louder than the radio. Most of us who have gone through the trouble of adding amps and speakers have used many different sources with the stock system. Loud, doesn't necessarily mean quality. Quality will be a subjective thing. If you are satisfied with what you have, by all means, I wouldn't go any farther than you have. You are in the majority of F6B owners.:icon_wink: Some of us,though, are not satisfied with what is possible with the OEM equipment. You might not be either once you heard mine.:icon_cool:
I have nothing stock in the audio department on my bike.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

17270
Polk MM 651 work in progress trimming to fit. They kick serious but even un mounted.
I wouldn't however, reccomend them to anyone without an aftermarket amp and the patience of a snail. They are a butch to make fit. Go with DXI or DB Polk 6.5 speakers.
Do not use these MM with OEM amp. The speakers are 2 ohm and OEM system is likely not compatable.
I'm out
Jim

Final thoughts on my amp - speaker mod.

I decided of the 3 Polk offerings in a 6.5"; the DXI are the best for ease to install, sound quality in my experience and price point.
They also perform ok with the Honda OEM amp.
They can be driven by most any 2 or 4 channel amplifier and work well from 5 to 80 watts RMS.

I also filled the speaker cavities with about 1 square foot of 1" speaker batting, which improved sound clarity and quality.

The volume at 15 is very loud and clear at any speed.
The DXI sound clear as high as my ears could stand it, 20 + being very loud. Including testimony by neighbors, blocks away.

The amp I used is a Polk PA D2000.2, which supplies plenty of clear power for about any configuration and Fits nicely in the saddle bag. It takes up a 4x 6.5 " area and sits about 2 inches in height.

A sub woofer would be a good supplement but not necessary.

I'd highly recommend the Polk DXI for those wanting more than their oem experience.
1742317424
17425

J

[CoCoKola]

well after hours of pulling my hair out,I finally threw in the towel and walked away eating the cost of the speakers. the speakers I have have a horrible "fuzz" sound at 50hz to 120hz. I hooked up the factory speakers and strangely without the tweeters, the factory speakers had a lot of distortion to them as well . I think the stock amp is crap.

I tried to do a return, but the place I bought them from was not factory authorized, so no warrantee. (never mind the modifications.) credit card company had a one year extension on warranty, but they claimed since I had no warranty they wouldn't do theirs either.

After walking away good a while, the 2 ohm load came to mind again (thanks to whomever mentioned this in the thread) so I am going to mock the amp install and see what happens. the batting is definitely a great idea, should tighten up the bass.

so please everyone keep your fingers crossed.

my opinion thus far is that the 6.5 fabricating necessary to get them to fit is too labor excessive unless you have experience fabricating and well over 6 hours to do a speaker install that could be drop in.

I gather the 5.? inch speaker upgrades folks are doing are lacking though..

the j&l ? New upgrade might be an option, I'd love fit someone to get updated speaker specs and try them with an appropriate amp.

in any case, once I make the time, I'll let everyone know. again, I have a slightly different model of polk mm speakers than everyone else, and about twice the cost.
cheers

[Jimmytee]

I have the MM series. The component ones. I've got the 6.5" I originally installed the 5.25" but put the 6.5" in. The 5.25" speakers were definitely easier. All I had to do was make an adapter plate because of the difference in size. The MM series 6.5" woofers were indeed an exercise in patience to make fit. I used no batting. Mine sound awesome. The 5.25" sounded good too, but were augmented with the sub which adds a lot.

[marmilia]

I went with the Polk DXI 651 and since I figured cutting on them would void the warranty anyway got some manufacturer refurbished speakers on ebay for $53. Pretty easy install and really can tell the difference even with the factory amp.

Link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLK-AUDIO-DXI651-6-5-COAXIAL-2-WAY-CAR-STEREO-AUDIO-SPEAKERS-PAIR/191720187103?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D34008%26meid%3Da31f6512ce1e4d1d9779b94c260d 90a1%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D231 720598087

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I went with the Polk DXI 651 and since I figured cutting on them would void the warranty anyway got some manufacturer refurbished speakers on ebay for $53. Pretty easy install and really can tell the difference even with the factory amp.

Link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLK-AUDIO-DXI651-6-5-COAXIAL-2-WAY-CAR-STEREO-AUDIO-SPEAKERS-PAIR/191720187103?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D34008%26meid%3Da31f6512ce1e4d1d9779b94c260d 90a1%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D231 720598087

Mount them upside down to make the voice coil and shelter fit best. And they are great with an amp. See my pictures of the DXi above.

[CoCoKola]

I have the MM series. The component ones. I've got the 6.5" I originally installed the 5.25" but put the 6.5" in. The 5.25" speakers were definitely easier. All I had to do was make an adapter plate because of the difference in size. The MM series 6.5" woofers were indeed an exercise in patience to make fit. I used no batting. Mine sound awesome. The 5.25" sounded good too, but were augmented with the sub which adds a lot.

yes, you have the mm651 if memory serves. http://www.polkaudio.com/mm651/d/1151

I have the mm6501 http://www.polkaudio.com/mm6501/d/1149
about $100 more. Both component.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Final thoughts on my amp - speaker mod.

I decided of the 3 Polk offerings in a 6.5"; the DXI are the best for ease to install, sound quality in my experience and price point.
They also perform ok with the Honda OEM amp.
They can be driven by most any 2 or 4 channel amplifier and work well from 5 to 80 watts RMS.

I also filled the speaker cavities with about 1 square foot of 1" speaker batting, which improved sound clarity and quality.

The volume at 15 is very loud and clear at any speed.
The DXI sound clear as high as my ears could stand it, 20 + being very loud. Including testimony by neighbors, blocks away.

The amp I used is a Polk PA D2000.2, which supplies plenty of clear power for about any configuration and Fits nicely in the saddle bag. It takes up a 4x 6.5 " area and sits about 2 inches in height.

A sub woofer would be a good supplement but not necessary.

I'd highly recommend the Polk DXI for those wanting more than their oem experience.
1742317424
17425

J

17442
Works well, cheap at Wally.
Hope my project posts are helpful and relevant.
J

[Jimmytee]

yes, you have the mm651 if memory serves. http://www.polkaudio.com/mm651/d/1151

I have the mm6501 http://www.polkaudio.com/mm6501/d/1149
about $100 more. Both component.

No they are not both component. The MM 651 is a coaxial. I have the MM 6501.

[98valk]

Dirtstiff and/or marmilia,

I am going to try the DXI651(s) speakers. It's ridiculous that my little 4" rear speakers have so much more bass than the stock front speakers. :icon_frown:

So, did you guys put in DXI651S (slim model), or were you able to mount the regular DXI651 speakers?

TIA

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Dirtstiff and/or marmilia,

I am going to try the DXI651(s) speakers. It's ridiculous that my little 4" rear speakers have so much more bass than the stock front speakers. :icon_frown:

So, did you guys put in DXI651S (slim model), or were you able to mount the regular DXI651 speakers?

TIA

Valk,
I mounted the regular DXI full magnet because it actually is rated higher in watts - RMS and frequency range than the S or shallow mount. Although either would be fine.
Remember to mount them upside down so that the voice coil doesn't hit the inner fairing, causing the shelter not to fit correctly. See my pictures above.
Good luck
J

[98valk]

Thanks Dirtstiff,
I went and ordered the full size for the reasons that you mentioned and because they were a lot cheaper.

If it is practical, I want to temporarily connect one speaker to the OEM amp and the other to my new amp and compare. I will be able to fade back and forth (left and right in this case). That might open a can of worms for me. :stirthepot:

I'll let you all know how it comes out. :)

[blackmetoc]

Can't speak for anyone else, but I ride 3-600 miles each time I ride. When there isn't snow . If the weather is agreeable and I don't have other household responsibilities (sometimes those get neglected for my riding addiction :icon_rolleyes::shhh:). The majority of those rides are round trip in a day rides, just riding to be riding. Sometimes I ride and stay somewhere over night. This summer I have an extended trip plan and a least 2 smaller trips planned that involve packing some luggage. I ride 10- 12 k miles per year usually and this, keep in mind is all recreational riding. I have a service truck that I drive to get me wherever I am working, and yes that means I am not retired. I also live in Kentucky, and while it is not Alaska, we did just get 14-15 " of snow and it is currently 16 degrees Fahrenheit outside.
I have a small but potent JL Audio subwoofer in one saddlebag. The subwoofer can come out if need be. Two Velcro straps that I installed to keep it secure and 1 dual banana plug for the speaker connection pulled and she slips right out. The rest of the sound system remains and has no impact on storage space. The other saddlebag has nothing but what I pack in it and I do have a luggage rack and luggage to go on that luggage rack.
:shrug: So I guess ,what do you mean? Unless I am going over night somewhere, The most I need is a place to put my gear I might want with me for temperature changes while out. One bag by itself does that quite fine.:icon_cool:
Oh and that sub sounds so good while riding too. To each their own, but the last good weather weekend was about 2-3 weeks ago, Went out both Sat and Sun. Temps were in the 40s and lower 50s. Had a great time on some really twisty roads and was jamming all the way.:icon_mrgreen:

Jimmy,
I loved the sound system on your bike and have been pondering doing the same. Do you think the sub can go on the right side? I use the left side all the time as I always have my iPhone plugged in and I mount/dismount on that side too.

[Jimmytee]

Jimmy,
I loved the sound system on your bike and have been pondering doing the same. Do you think the sub can go on the right side? I use the left side all the time as I always have my iPhone plugged in and I mount/dismount on that side too.

Yeah, it doesn't ,matter. I chose the left side because unless the bike is on the center stand, the right side bag is just easier for loading and unloading as it is facing up when the bike is on the side stand. I never had a I phone, IPod or MP3 player plugged into the USB port. I use a flash drive. Now , though, my USB connection is up in my left side pocket of the fairing since I installed the Clarion head unit.

[blackmetoc]

Yeah, it doesn't ,matter. I chose the left side because unless the bike is on the center stand, the right side bag is just easier for loading and unloading as it is facing up when the bike is on the side stand. I never had a I phone, IPod or MP3 player plugged into the USB port. I use a flash drive. Now , though, my USB connection is up in my left side pocket of the fairing since I installed the Clarion head unit.

Thanks!

[98valk]

I received my DXI651 speakers and got them installed. They sound Great, with either amp. These speakers put out lower lows and louder lows. Definitely worth the $60.

The new amp gives the lows more "punch". But they sound just fine with the stock amp. I do have to turn the volume up about 2 clicks. So now instead of running about 12 on the volume, I have to use it around 14. That's okay, there is plenty left.

The OEM amp gets a lot of bad press on this board. I ran into something that might explain it (probably not). If you are blasting your stereo without the bike running, the battery is probably around 12.5v. If the bike is running, it will be around 14.5v (mine is a little higher than that). Since power is voltage squared, the 14.5v has 1/3rd more power for the amp than the 12.5v does.

If you are using a 100w+ amp, you don't need full power. 70% is plenty.

Anyway, the speakers are great! :yes:

[JetBlackWing]

Can't speak for anyone else, but I ride 3-600 miles each time I ride. When there isn't snow . If the weather is agreeable and I don't have other household responsibilities (sometimes those get neglected for my riding addiction :icon_rolleyes::shhh:). The majority of those rides are round trip in a day rides, just riding to be riding. Sometimes I ride and stay somewhere over night. This summer I have an extended trip plan and a least 2 smaller trips planned that involve packing some luggage. I ride 10- 12 k miles per year usually and this, keep in mind is all recreational riding. I have a service truck that I drive to get me wherever I am working, and yes that means I am not retired. I also live in Kentucky, and while it is not Alaska, we did just get 14-15 " of snow and it is currently 16 degrees Fahrenheit outside.
I have a small but potent JL Audio subwoofer in one saddlebag. The subwoofer can come out if need be. Two Velcro straps that I installed to keep it secure and 1 dual banana plug for the speaker connection pulled and she slips right out. The rest of the sound system remains and has no impact on storage space. The other saddlebag has nothing but what I pack in it and I do have a luggage rack and luggage to go on that luggage rack.
:shrug: So I guess ,what do you mean? Unless I am going over night somewhere, The most I need is a place to put my gear I might want with me for temperature changes while out. One bag by itself does that quite fine.:icon_cool:
Oh and that sub sounds so good while riding too. To each their own, but the last good weather weekend was about 2-3 weeks ago, Went out both Sat and Sun. Temps were in the 40s and lower 50s. Had a great time on some really twisty roads and was jamming all the way.:icon_mrgreen:

Since I know from you write-up, you have seen all inside your F6B, and I have yet to purchase any aftermarket items or even remove much of the panels etc and explore the interior areas of the bike, I just wondering about alternative locations for a small amp, and subwoofer rather than the saddle bags, if you have come to find new locations. Also wondering.. with a 3 year factory warranty, if its jeperdizing coverage when any electronic mods are be performed (aka stereo improvements) Its close to the time the bike will be hibernation for the season (don't want road sodium/ chemicals exposure) Stereo changes are likely in the cards, but I have decided how far I want to go with it. I'm not one that likes to be shakin by others stereo's (music choices), so I might also for-go the sub Idea, and I would want to use this in traffic. I believe a better windshield, and better front speakers will be the first sound improvement though.

[Jimmytee]

Since I know from you write-up, you have seen all inside your F6B, and I have yet to purchase any aftermarket items or even remove much of the panels etc and explore the interior areas of the bike, I just wondering about alternative locations for a small amp, and subwoofer rather than the saddle bags, if you have come to find new locations. Also wondering.. with a 3 year factory warranty, if its jeperdizing coverage when any electronic mods are be performed (aka stereo improvements) Its close to the time the bike will be hibernation for the season (don't want road sodium/ chemicals exposure) Stereo changes are likely in the cards, but I have decided how far I want to go with it. I'm not one that likes to be shakin by others stereo's (music choices), so I might also for-go the sub Idea, and I would want to use this in traffic. I believe a better windshield, and better front speakers will be the first sound improvement though.

As far as a sub woofer, there are not a lot of options. It's going to involve some space. In my deliberations, I was at first intending to mount 2 subs ,one in each saddlebag facing the rear wheel. I instead went with the simpler route with the JL Audio micro sub and have been very happy with it.
As far as the amp, just depends on which amp you choose. The amp I used is pretty small in size and therefore can be tucked in a few places. The OEM location though didn't quite seem like a good fit. The amp by itself will fit but by the time you add in all the wiring it's a bit tight. Not to say it couldn't work, but the location in the left saddlebag where I put it, really takes up no usable space and it is easily accessed for any changes or adjustments. It could also be placed up in the fairing.

[JetBlackWing]

As far as a sub woofer, there are not a lot of options. It's going to involve some space. In my deliberations, I was at first intending to mount 2 subs ,one in each saddlebag facing the rear wheel. I instead went with the simpler route with the JL Audio micro sub and have been very happy with it.
As far as the amp, just depends on which amp you choose. The amp I used is pretty small in size and therefore can be tucked in a few places. The OEM location though didn't quite seem like a good fit. The amp by itself will fit but by the time you add in all the wiring it's a bit tight. Not to say it couldn't work, but the location in the left saddlebag where I put it, really takes up no usable space and it is easily accessed for any changes or adjustments. It could also be placed up in the fairing.

Dang it, what I meant to say was that is less likely I would go with a sub-way, Most likely OEM speaker upgrade replacement, and maybe an amp...that's. If I think an amp will be in the future, I had better spring for the 2 ohm MM series is my thinking now.

[JetBlackWing]

I received my DXI651 speakers and got them installed. They sound Great, with either amp. These speakers put out lower lows and louder lows. Definitely worth the $60.

The new amp gives the lows more "punch". But they sound just fine with the stock amp. I do have to turn the volume up about 2 clicks. So now instead of running about 12 on the volume, I have to use it around 14. That's okay, there is plenty left.

The OEM amp gets a lot of bad press on this board. I ran into something that might explain it (probably not). If you are blasting your stereo without the bike running, the battery is probably around 12.5v. If the bike is running, it will be around 14.5v (mine is a little higher than that). Since power is voltage squared, the 14.5v has 1/3rd more power for the amp than the 12.5v does.

If you are using a 100w+ amp, you don't need full power. 70% is plenty.

Anyway, the speakers are great! :yes:

Valk or others that have...Are you installing the grills with you DXI651 after the install?

[98valk]

Valk or others that have...Are you installing the grills with you DXI651 after the install?

No grills on mine ....

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Not really possible installing grills and getting the shelter to fit.

Jim

[JetBlackWing]

Not really possible installing grills and getting the shelter to fit.

Jim

A grill (some type) is a necessity, but I believe it will reduce fidelity somewhat, so I wouldn't want two grill sets over a set of speaker anyway...just think of the reflected waves that would likely occur between the two grills.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Not really possible installing grills and getting the shelter to fit.

Jim

HS..
You don't need grills in the F6B application and definately not extra grills. You have them with the oem speaker covers on the shelter. Neither affect your sound, measurably by ear.. Keep it simple.

[JetBlackWing]

I received my DXI651 speakers and got them installed. They sound Great, with either amp. These speakers put out lower lows and louder lows. Definitely worth the $60.

The new amp gives the lows more "punch". But they sound just fine with the stock amp. I do have to turn the volume up about 2 clicks. So now instead of running about 12 on the volume, I have to use it around 14. That's okay, there is plenty left.

The OEM amp gets a lot of bad press on this board. I ran into something that might explain it (probably not). If you are blasting your stereo without the bike running, the battery is probably around 12.5v. If the bike is running, it will be around 14.5v (mine is a little higher than that). Since power is voltage squared, the 14.5v has 1/3rd more power for the amp than the 12.5v does.

If you are using a 100w+ amp, you don't need full power. 70% is plenty.

Anyway, the speakers are great! :yes:

Thanks, this is helpful for me :icon_wink:

[JetBlackWing]

HS..
You don't need grills in the F6B application and definately not extra grills. You have them with the oem speaker covers on the shelter. Neither affect your sound, measurably by ear.. Keep it simple.

Yes, Polks DXI65 replacements, and a decent windscreen.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Yes, Polks DXI65 replacements, and a decent windscreen.


Right on, enjoy the Polks.
Adjust your fader to the front.
Also, remember to mount the Polk DXI's up side down so the shelter snaps back on correctly. See some of my pictures in early posts to this thread.

[06Blackpearl]

I received my DXI651 speakers and got them installed. They sound Great, with either amp. These speakers put out lower lows and louder lows. Definitely worth the $60.

The new amp gives the lows more "punch". But they sound just fine with the stock amp. I do have to turn the volume up about 2 clicks. So now instead of running about 12 on the volume, I have to use it around 14. That's okay, there is plenty left.

The OEM amp gets a lot of bad press on this board. I ran into something that might explain it (probably not). If you are blasting your stereo without the bike running, the battery is probably around 12.5v. If the bike is running, it will be around 14.5v (mine is a little higher than that). Since power is voltage squared, the 14.5v has 1/3rd more power for the amp than the 12.5v does.

If you are using a 100w+ amp, you don't need full power. 70% is plenty.

Anyway, the speakers are great! :yes:

Thanks 98valk! I just want a simple upgrade for now.. If at a later date I want an amp I'll go for it.. But gonna order some factory refurbished units for now!