Easy Stereo Add-on

[98valk]

Hey All,
I installed some rear speakers about a year ago. They put out only about 1/10th the volume of the front speakers. So, pretty much useless. I have tried other speakers with the same result.

So, gave up and added a two channel amp to drive the rear speakers. What a world of difference! I am shocked! Those crappy little speakers are suddenly fantastic!

With the four speakers the sound is so much fuller. You feel like you are in a room filled with music. Also, the little four inch rear speakers have much more bass and more punch than the front (I think that the front speaker magnets are just too small).

The amp fits under the seat. There are four handy mounting bosses right there. Just make four zigzag angle brackets to hold the amp. The rear speaker wiring is right there (I used the high level inputs). And the speakers are attach to the hand rails - out of the way of any luggage/packing.

It came out great. The amp has enough oomph to drive another speaker using the bridged output. I might someday cram a woofer into the glove box area. I am happy for now. :clap2:

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Amp fits comfortably under the seat.

13826
Input wiring is right there!

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Testing ....

2994
And done.

[53driver]

Hey All,
I installed some rear speakers about a year ago. They put out only about 1/10th the volume of the front speakers. So, pretty much useless. I have tried other speakers with the same result.
If you were using the OEM amp to drive 4 speakers, I'm not surprised. OEM amp can barely drive two...


So, gave up and added a two channel amp to drive the rear speakers. What a world of difference! I am shocked! Those crappy little speakers are suddenly fantastic!
Proper power is goodness!


With the four speakers the sound is so much fuller. You feel like you are in a room filled with music. Also, the little four inch rear speakers have much more bass and more punch than the front (I think that the front speaker magnets are just too small).
The odds are very good that the power amp you installed is providing much more oomph to the rear speakers than the OEM amp is providing to the front speakers (8 Watts). Low range demands more power.


It came out great. The amp has enough oomph to drive another speaker using the bridged output. I might someday cram a woofer into the glove box area. I am happy for now. :clap2:
Check the amp manual....I would be VERY surprised if you can use the Bridged output simultaneously with the other outputs. "Bridging an amp" means linking the two stereo sections together to form a more powerful mono amplifier and by internal functionals, it cannot perform stereo functions simultaneously.

In the mean time though...enjoy your tunes!

[wildrooster]

I am thinking about doing just this. I haven't taken off the seat yet to look at everything. Can you give me a description of how to connect to the amp.

[chief212]

What brand of speakers and amp did you use?

[98valk]

What brand of speakers and amp did you use?

The speakers are Patriot Audio, I got from Vidsonix. They are VX-138BX and are labeled as 80W. That is probably peak, so maybe 40-50W RMS. I bought them for the power and the convenient housing.

I think these are them, though he is only rating them at 50W.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Patriot-Audio-Black-Motorcycle-Speaker-PAIR-/350402412816?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51959c8110


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The amp is a Power Acoustik RZ2-1300D. It has way more power than I need, which will keep it reliable. It is a class D amp, which makes it more efficient (less heat), at the expense of high frequency quality. I can't tell that there is less quality and figured that I couldn't.

I don't doubt that someone can come up with a better amp. This one measures 5x7x1.5", which fit easily under the seat and runs cooler than others.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201178485300?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Hope that helps!

[98valk]

If you were using the OEM amp to drive 4 speakers, I'm not surprised. OEM amp can barely drive two...

The odds are very good that the power amp you installed is providing much more oomph to the rear speakers than the OEM amp is providing to the front speakers (8 Watts). Low range demands more power.


Check the amp manual....I would be VERY surprised if you can use the Bridged output simultaneously with the other outputs. "Bridging an amp" means linking the two stereo sections together to form a more powerful mono amplifier and by internal functionals, it cannot perform stereo functions simultaneously.

In the mean time though...enjoy your tunes!

It isn't so much a power problem with the OEM amp. We've been through this already and I have shown that the OEM amp will supply 40W per channel into 4 ohms.

2998
~36v pk-pk ~= 12.6v RMS

The problem was the extreme difference in speaker sensitivity between OEM and my rear speakers.

I can run speakers simultaneously in Bridged and Stereo. My two speakers are effectively hooked up to the bridge outputs already as an 8 ohm load. The two stereo outputs (R- & L+) are permanently linked on this amp. I can connect another single 8 ohm speaker across that 8 ohms and have a total impedance of about 4 ohms. This amp will handle this. Good point, though. You are keeping me on my toes. :yes:


On a side note for anyone:
The front OEM speakers are labeled as 3.8 ohm. The tweeters are labeled as 4 ohm (impedance, not resistance). These speakers are in parallel. So, it would appear that it is a 2 ohm load total, at least at some frequencies. Interesting .....

[53driver]

It isn't so much a power problem with the OEM amp. We've been through this already and I have shown that the OEM amp will supply 40W per channel into 4 ohms.
Copy. I must have missed that post. I was going by what a Honda Gold Wing mech told me about the 2012 and up stereos.

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~36v pk-pk ~= 12.6v RMS

So this is with a sine wave (freq?) on the stock amp?


The problem was the extreme difference in speaker sensitivity between OEM and my rear speakers.
That'll do it everytime!


I can run speakers simultaneously in Bridged and Stereo.
Damn - amp technology is getting better and better. None of my pro-audio amps will do that.


These speakers are in parallel. So, it would appear that it is a 2 ohm load total, at least at some frequencies. Interesting .....
Aye, very interesting. I wish you would have put an Ohm meter across the speaker leads when you had her apart.
And no, I wouldn't have thought of it either....:icon_rolleyes:

[ths61]

...
I don't doubt that someone can come up with a better amp. This one measures 5x7x1.5", which fit easily under the seat and runs cooler than others.
...


That is cool that it fits under the seat, enjoy.

[98valk]

Aye, very interesting. I wish you would have put an Ohm meter across the speaker leads when you had her apart.
And no, I wouldn't have thought of it either....:icon_rolleyes:

Actually, I did try. They have a cap there probably to block the lower frequencies (an LC circuit?). So, I couldn't easily get a resistance measurement.

I did measure .68uf at two different frequencies with a cap meter. And measured about 8 ohms impedance at 100khz with another meter. That happens to be the frequency the meter uses.

The tweeter is marked 15w. That's not a lot of power, but a lot for a tweeter.

Maybe next time I am in there, I'll try more testing ...

[flat6bagger]

98,
although this amp runs cooler,does it get enough air under the seat to keep the amp cool and the seat from getting hot?
thanks,
Doug

[53driver]

Actually, I did try. They have a cap there probably to block the lower frequencies (an LC circuit?). So, I couldn't easily get a resistance measurement.

Good on you. I would have forgotten completely...

[98valk]

98,
although this amp runs cooler,does it get enough air under the seat to keep the amp cool and the seat from getting hot?
thanks,
Doug

I don't have a great answer to those questions. I thought about that too. And I believe that there is enough cooling there, and I doubt that it will be felt through the passenger seat.

It is pretty roomy there and it is not air tight or anything.

Unless I make the effort to remove the seat after riding and check it, I will just have to wait and see.

The OEM amp is right there also. Honda thought it was okay. That should be a good sign.

Anyway, good questions. You guys just keep me thinking ...

[srt8-in-largo]

Fancy! Nice job Valk!

[ths61]

...
This one measures 5x7x1.5", which fit easily under the seat and runs cooler than others.
...


When the season turns cold, you can swap it out for a Class A tube amp and have heated seats ! :icon_lol:

[Jimmytee]

I don't have a great answer to those questions. I thought about that too. And I believe that there is enough cooling there, and I doubt that it will be felt through the passenger seat.

It is pretty roomy there and it is not air tight or anything.

Unless I make the effort to remove the seat after riding and check it, I will just have to wait and see.

The OEM amp is right there also. Honda thought it was okay. That should be a good sign.

Anyway, good questions. You guys just keep me thinking ...
The OEM amp is not right there. It is up under the rear fender behind the rear wheel.

[98valk]

The OEM amp is not right there. It is up under the rear fender behind the rear wheel.

Wow, your OEM amp must get real dirty being under the rear fender in the crud and all. :yikes:

My OEM amp is above the rear fender just behind where I mounted the new amp.

[srt8-in-largo]

Are you guys' OEM amps in different locations? What year bikes?

I believe mine is like Jimmy says, behind the rear fender and above the rear tire. I haven't opened it up, but it's what's inside of that plastic enclosure, no? So yeah it's in the area of the rear tire but is not subjected to the crud due to the protective enclosure.

[98valk]

I am sure the amps are in the same place. I was making fun of "under the rear fender" part.

The front of my OEM amp is under the blue/white towel in this picture. Isn't that behind my new amp?

3006

My original point was that they share similar air space and cooling.

Here is another pic. Isn't your OEM amp under that rubber flap just behind the new amp? Maybe I don't know where my OEM amp is?? :shrug:

13900

[srt8-in-largo]

Ohhhhh :icon_doh:

I'll just shut up now; I have no idea about this stuff :icon_biggrin:

[Jimmytee]

Wow, your OEM amp must get real dirty being under the rear fender in the crud and all. :yikes:

My OEM amp is above the rear fender just behind where I mounted the new amp.

Trust me,Your amp is under the fender where mine was. .:icon_cool:
The OEM amp is mounted in a small enclosure under the rear fender.

It is fed audio signals by the by the "Audio Unit" The Audio Unit is what you are pointing to.

[98valk]

Okay, makes sense. Maybe some day I'll get in that far ...

[ths61]

Okay, makes sense. Maybe some day I'll get in that far ...

FWIW, page 9 of this PDF shows a couple of good pictures of the amplifier box.

Amplifier Box, see page 9 (http://www.lehmantrikes.com/assets/dealers/docs/2013-f6b-monarch-ii-lls--installation-instructions-wi-751-0074-ae416a36aa67.pdf)

Audio Parts Diagram - Head Unit is #3, Amplifier is #14 (https://www.micksbikeparts.com/products/audio%20unit/honda/gold%20wing%20f6b/2013/gl1800bd)

[98valk]

FWIW, page 9 of this PDF shows a couple of good pictures of the amplifier box.

Amplifier Box, see page 9 (http://www.lehmantrikes.com/assets/dealers/docs/2013-f6b-monarch-ii-lls--installation-instructions-wi-751-0074-ae416a36aa67.pdf)

Audio Parts Diagram - Head Unit is #3, Amplifier is #14 (https://www.micksbikeparts.com/products/audio%20unit/honda/gold%20wing%20f6b/2013/gl1800bd)


Thanks. Good info. I bookmarked it.

I am happy that I didn't have to get in anywhere that far for my upgrade, though. :)

[98valk]

I am thinking about doing just this. I haven't taken off the seat yet to look at everything. Can you give me a description of how to connect to the amp.

Sorry, I missed your question originally ...

Connecting the amp is pretty easy. You can take power straight from the battery. It's pretty close there. Fuse it, of course.

The amp has to be enabled. Right now, I am using the accessory out for that. It is right by the battery and was real convenient. Some time, I may track down the audio "on" wire and use it instead.

For the inputs, I used the rear OEM outputs which are right there also. It's a 4 pin plug on the brake side (you can see it in one of my pics). I used the high level inputs of the amp, so it was just plug and play with that wiring.

The amp outputs go to your speakers of choice. I like the housing of my speakers. And surprisingly, they sound pretty darn good. Better than my front speakers.

Hope that helps!

[wildrooster]

So let me get this right the factory harness provides the input so it still uses the stock front input. Seems simple enough

[ths61]

Thanks. Good info. I bookmarked it.

I am happy that I didn't have to get in anywhere that far for my upgrade, though. :)

I am working through my prioritized mod list while working up the courage to tap into the pre-amp lines in the harness between the head unit and the OEM amp to add a Biketronics BT4180. It would love to know the size of the stock amp to determine if the BT4180 would fit in the same box. Also need to find a pair of tour pak speaker pods (preferably 6.5" or 7.1") that don't break the bank.

[98valk]

So let me get this right the factory harness provides the input so it still uses the stock front input. Seems simple enough

Yes, the front is all stock. The rear uses the OEM rear outputs (normally unused) to feed the new amp directly (via the high level inputs). So, now I can adjust the new amp to make the rear volume match the front volume, with the fader adjustment in the middle.

It sounds surprisingly good!

[98valk]

I am working through my prioritized mod list while working up the courage to tap into the pre-amp lines in the harness between the head unit and the OEM amp to add a Biketronics BT4180. It would love to know the size of the stock amp to determine if the BT4180 would fit in the same box. Also need to find a pair of tour pak speaker pods (preferably 6.5" or 7.1") that don't break the bank.

Wow, that's a lot of amp! Still it has about the same dimensions as mine. So, it should fit easily under the seat with free air around it. Then tap into the outputs of the OEM amp for your inputs. Pretty easy if it works.

Now, find a nice place for those behemoth speakers. :icon_biggrin:

[shortleg0521]

Wow, that's a lot of amp! Still it has about the same dimensions as mine. So, it should fit easily under the seat with free air around it. Then tap into the outputs of the OEM amp for your inputs. Pretty easy if it works.

Now, find a nice place for those behemoth speakers. :icon_biggrin:

I have on question here. When you used the rear speaker output did you go and change the
balance between the front and rear using the controls for the speakers or the mode conteols.
I was just wondering if maybe that was the problem with output.
shortleg

[ths61]

Wow, that's a lot of amp! Still it has about the same dimensions as mine. So, it should fit easily under the seat with free air around it. Then tap into the outputs of the OEM amp for your inputs. Pretty easy if it works.

Now, find a nice place for those behemoth speakers. :icon_biggrin:

Amp won't fit in the OEM amp box. Did a quick measure last night without pulling the rear apart. It will also not fit under the left/right glove boxes so under the seat is the last option.


I have on question here. When you used the rear speaker output did you go and change the
balance between the front and rear using the controls for the speakers or the mode conteols.
I was just wondering if maybe that was the problem with output.
shortleg

I was wondering the same thing last night. It looks like the bike only has front/back fader, not left/right balance. I checked mine last night and it is cranked all the way to the front.

[98valk]

I have on question here. When you used the rear speaker output did you go and change the
balance between the front and rear using the controls for the speakers or the mode conteols.
I was just wondering if maybe that was the problem with output.
shortleg


I don't know about any problem with an output??

I have the OEM fader control set to the middle. Then I adjusted the new amp's volume to match the front speaker's volume. So with the fader control in the center, the front and rear volumes are equal.

It's a bit funny. If I move my head back just a bit, the rears are louder, if I move forward, the fronts are louder. So, they are pretty equally adjusted.

If there is more bass in the music, it comes mostly from the rear. Kind of fun!

[98valk]

Oops. It has been brought to my attention that my amp will not fit under the seat with the stock seat.

I use a mustang seat most of the time. I never thought about them being so different underneath.

I use my stock seat for long trips (it's more comfortable). Looks like I have some work to do before my next long trip ....

[srt8-in-largo]

Ruh-roh.

Here's to hoping it goes smoothly.

[Engelbrau]

Oops. It has been brought to my attention that my amp will not fit under the seat with the stock seat.

I use a mustang seat most of the time. I never thought about them being so different underneath.

I use my stock seat for long trips (it's more comfortable). Looks like I have some work to do before my next long trip ....


Hey Valk, that is a really cool mod. I am wondering if you got it sorted out using the stock seat. I would like to do this or something very similar to this on my bike. I have the stock seat. If you've found a solution I know we would like to hear it.

Thanks

[rjmyers4201]

Anybody seen this one? Asking any who have tried I'm curious if this will fit in the box. Proper Power!!

[rjmyers4201]

Anybody seen this one? Asking any who have tried I'm curious if this will fit in the box. Proper Power!!
http://www.jlaudio.com/mhx280-4-marine-audio-mhx-amplifiers-98403

[98valk]

I am not sure that I am done. But, here is what I have done so far to remedy this problem. The problem being that I like to use my stock seat on long trips and an amp does not fit under it.

I cut away the plastic in the bottom of the passenger area that is right above the amp. Then I cut away enough foam that the amp fits without pressing into the foam.

That is probably good enough. But, I went ahead and made a cover plate out of abs plastic to insert into the bottom of the seat. I believe that it is good enough to keep an average sized passenger from sitting on the amp.

The cover is jammed in there pretty well. Don't know if I should epoxie, rtv or rivet into place. Here are some pics:

15438

15437

15436

15435

[Jimmytee]

I'm up to no good and at it again. Replacing the head unit of the OEM equipment. I will post more details when finished, but man it is quite the improvement. I will now have built in Bluetooth with control, USB with iPod and Android control, SiriusXM radio, along with Aux in , and a display that affords me a lot more info and control over the various settings. Also, it sounds soon much better. The new speakers ,amp and sub I installed were a huge improvement, but this takes it to a whole other level. Oh, and I went ahead and upped the front speakers to 6.5" from the 5.25" I had installed.

[ths61]

I'm up to no good and at it again. Replacing the head unit of the OEM equipment. I will post more details when finished, but man it is quite the improvement. I will now have built in Bluetooth with control, USB with iPod and Android control, SiriusXM radio, along with Aux in , and a display that affords me a lot more info and control over the various settings. Also, it sounds soon much better. The new speakers ,amp and sub I installed were a huge improvement, but this takes it to a whole other level. Oh, and I went ahead and upped the front speakers to 6.5" from the 5.25" I had installed.


Anxious to see what you have come up with and how it integrates (e.g. iPod, GPS and Radar). Don't forget to take copious pictures.

[Jimmytee]

Well here are some shots. Went on a ride of about 350 miles today and I am thoroughly pleased. The sound is cleaner, with better stereo separation and just a whole lot more closer to what I'd call HiFi. In addition I gained SiriusXM radio, built in Bluetooth with control ability, and the system can operate Android and IPhones. I have an Android based Droid. The system also reads a whole host of formats from my USB flash drive as well as auxiliary input. My USB and aux. input is now located in the left front pocket. I also now have more control over the sound settings with dedicated subwoofer line outs. The unit is a Carion CMS 2 Marine hideaway unit. The main portion of the unit is located where the original "Audio Unit" was located. The control/display is mounted to a piece of 1/4" T6 Aluminum I cut and tapped o mount the display then mounted it to an accessory bracket that I bought when I purchased my Helibars. I plan on painting the aluminum plate as I also painted the little screw covers on the display module that were originally silver. I plan on making a blank ABS plate to replace the left fairing plate with all the buttons that are now not used.1551115512155131551415515

[53driver]

Very professional! I confess I'm waiting until you get it all sorted, then I'm coming to visit, scotch in hand and credit cards at the ready!

[ths61]

Looks great. Painting the side covers makes it look much better. Like the matching profile mounting bracket.

Got any close-up picts of the 6.5" speaker install ? Would like to see how much trimming was necessary and any necessary spacers. Did you have to trim the dash grill ?

[Jimmytee]

Very professional! I confess I'm waiting until you get it all sorted, then I'm coming to visit, scotch in hand and credit cards at the ready!

Thanks. I wish now that I had just done this from the start. :icon_rolleyes: The factory system, sounded much improved when I changed the speakers , added aftermarket amp an subwoofer, but much like a lot of factory systems, it sounded compressed, not as clean, compared to decent after market electronics. Had I just done this route from the start, would have saved a lot of time, but it's all fun.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

15518

[Jimmytee]

Looks great. Painting the side covers makes it look much better. Like the matching profile mounting bracket.

Got any close-up picts of the 6.5" speaker install ? Would like to see how much trimming was necessary and any necessary spacers. Did you have to trim the dash grill ?

Other than a pic with one of the woofers in the back ground. Yes a fair amount of trimming the speaker frame was needed. I used a Dremel with a sanding cylinder. And yes, the speakers come with an adapter plate that I used as a spacer along with some rubber gasket material that would compress and fill in any irregularities to seal the drivers in mounting. I have to say, I am pretty well versed at making things work and figuring things out, but I found mounting these speakers a pretty tight fit. They're done though and sound really nice . A bit more Bass ability than the 5.25" drivers. If I had to do it all over again, I might try harder to piece together a component speaker system with some 6" drivers.

[Jimmytee]

Here is a link to the Clarion unit I used

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_81198_Clarion-CMS2.html

[Jimmytee]

15518

What model speaker is that? the DB series?

[ths61]

... the speakers come with an adapter plate that I used as a spacer along with some rubber gasket material that would compress and fill in any irregularities to seal the drivers in mounting. ....

Do you think you could have gotten by with a thinner gasket/adapter plate to seat the speakers deeper?

TIA

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

What model speaker is that? the DB series?
They are -
Polk DXI 651 s which are 80 watt RMS.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

They are -
Polk DXI 651 s which are 80 watt RMS.
Driving them with a Polk 200 watt per channel PAB 2000.2 amp. They sound pretty good.

[Jimmytee]

Do you think you could have gotten by with a thinner gasket/adapter plate to seat the speakers deeper?

TIA
The quick answer is yes. The adapter plates that come with the speakers are not really ideal. They too have to be shaved down substantially to fit of coarse. A superior choice would be to make some adapter plates out of wood or solid ABS plastic in the proper thickness needed.
The problem is the speaker basket / structure / spider hits inside of the speaker enclosure before the speaker sits flat so a spacer of some sort is needed.

[Jimmytee]

They are -
Polk DXI 651 s which are 80 watt RMS.

Looks like they're rated for 55 to 60 watts RMS. http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DXI651-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B00FEYXTT6
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-b9xzeDIisa0/p_107DXI651S/Polk-Audio-DXi651s.html

Running more than that shouldn't be an issue if you set the amplifier gain control to help keep from over driving them. More speakers are damaged from too little wattage than too much.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I stand corrected
The DXI 6.5 are
6 - 60 watt RMS with 180 Peak.
The DXI 651s - shallow mount are appx 5 watt lower.

I will likely end up with the MM 651 Polk. 100 watt RMS rated.

I also believe the sound would be best doing what JT did in finding the input to the oem amp.
Thanks

[Jimmytee]

I stand corrected
The DXI 6.5 are
6 - 60 watt RMS with 180 Peak.
The DXI 651s - shallow mount are appx 5 watt lower.

I will likely end up with the MM 651 Polk. 100 watt RMS rated.

I also believe the sound would be best doing what JT did in finding the input to the oem amp.
Thanks

The best sound I achieved with the OEM stereo was like you mentioned , finding the preouts to the OEM amplifier and using them to feed the after market amplifier. But now I have seen the light, or at least heard it.:icon_biggrin: I am no longer using anything OEM in the stereo system.

[53driver]

...Running more than that shouldn't be an issue if you set the amplifier gain control to help keep from over driving them. More speakers are damaged from too little wattage than too much.

Amplifier gain settings will NOT (in all amps I have ever been associated with) limit the output to a reduced wattage. The only thing that will limit the amp's output is something that limits its input.

Totally concur with "more speakers are damaged from too little wattage..."

[Jimmytee]

Amplifier gain settings will NOT (in all amps I have ever been associated with) limit the output to a reduced wattage. The only thing that will limit the amp's output is something that limits its input.

Totally concur with "more speakers are damaged from too little wattage..."

Yes, the gains are used to match the pre out voltage to the amplifier's input gain structure, but you can use this to limit the maximum volume that you achieve. Doing by ear, you could decrease the gains until you achieve the ability to turn your source volume up without audible distortion in your speakers. Yeah, it is just a way to adapt. Of course the more accurate way to adjust gain control is by using a DMM and adjusting the gains to the desired voltage that will avoid the amplifier clipping. The desired voltage is dependent on the RMS rating of the amplifier and the impedance or load that wattage is driving.

Voltage = square root of the (wattage x impedance)

[53driver]

Yes, the gains are used to match the pre out voltage to the amplifier's input gain structure, but you can use this to limit the maximum volume that you achieve. Doing by ear, you could decrease the gains until you achieve the ability to turn your source volume up without audible distortion in your speakers. Yeah, it is just a way to adapt. Of course the more accurate way to adjust gain control is by using a DMM and adjusting the gains to the desired voltage that will avoid the amplifier clipping. The desired voltage is dependent on the RMS rating of the amplifier and the impedance or load that wattage is driving.

Voltage = square root of the (wattage x impedance)

I use this equation to set my limiters:

20log(((sqrt(program wattage of speakers * impedance of speakers)) / amplifier gain) / 0.775)
Amp gain number is in "X" format, like 40X.
This yields proper dBu for setting limiters in sound processors.
This will limit the input signal so it cannot drive the amp past speaker ratings.

[dsvermi]

Hey All,
I installed some rear speakers about a year ago. They put out only about 1/10th the volume of the front speakers. So, pretty much useless. I have tried other speakers with the same result.

So, gave up and added a two channel amp to drive the rear speakers. What a world of difference! I am shocked! Those crappy little speakers are suddenly fantastic!

With the four speakers the sound is so much fuller. You feel like you are in a room filled with music. Also, the little four inch rear speakers have much more bass and more punch than the front (I think that the front speaker magnets are just too small).

The amp fits under the seat. There are four handy mounting bosses right there. Just make four zigzag angle brackets to hold the amp. The rear speaker wiring is right there (I used the high level inputs). And the speakers are attach to the hand rails - out of the way of any luggage/packing.

It came out great. The amp has enough oomph to drive another speaker using the bridged output. I might someday cram a woofer into the glove box area. I am happy for now. :clap2:

13825
Amp fits comfortably under the seat.

13826
Input wiring is right there!

13827
Testing ....

13828
And done.

The mounting bracket on yours looks different from what is pictured online. Did yours come with that bracket or did you make it?

[98valk]

The mounting bracket on yours looks different from what is pictured online. Did yours come with that bracket or did you make it?

I didn't "make" the bracket. I did bend their supplied bracket to fit how I wanted it to. Then touched it up where the paint cracked. I did not use the curvy part intended for handlebar mounting.

On a side note: It turns out that these speakers have really good bass for a 4" speaker. I just recently tried another pair and the bass was not even close.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I'm gonna dive in with my Polk MM 651 speakers this weekend, replacing a perfectly sounding and almost brand new pair of trimmed to fit Polk DXI 651's. Wife says it's an obsession. She's right, it sounds perfect now. But I just want to match my Polk amp with their premium speaker. More to come. May be a nice already trimmed to fit pair of Polk 6.5's for sale, depending on my outcome.
Took some time coming to grips with cutting up a brand new high quality speaker... Then, next comes a sub woofer..
I ride the SG if I want to hear pipes.
J

[Jimmytee]

sub, definitely a sub .:icon_lol: Mine sounds awesome if I say so myself. Actually there are quite a few hear that went to the Rally that can comment on what they heard.:icon_cool:

[Papa Tater]

sub, definitely a sub .:icon_lol: Mine sounds awesome if I say so myself. Actually there are quite a few hear that went to the Rally that can comment on what they heard.:icon_cool:

Yes his system sounded Great, subwoofer is a nice added touch. If you were blindfolded, you would swear it was coming from nice car system. My .02$ from hearing it at the Rally.

[ALF6B]

Good afternoon what is the color code for the rear speaker leads?

[ths61]

Good afternoon what is the color code for the rear speaker leads?

From the shop manual (page ETM 18-6):

Left Rear:
+ Orange
- Blue/Red

Right Rear:
+ Blue
- White

HTH

[ALF6B]

Thanks

[Papa Tater]

Hey All,
I installed some rear speakers about a year ago. They put out only about 1/10th the volume of the front speakers. So, pretty much useless. I have tried other speakers with the same result.

So, gave up and added a two channel amp to drive the rear speakers. What a world of difference! I am shocked! Those crappy little speakers are suddenly fantastic!

With the four speakers the sound is so much fuller. You feel like you are in a room filled with music. Also, the little four inch rear speakers have much more bass and more punch than the front (I think that the front speaker magnets are just too small).

The amp fits under the seat. There are four handy mounting bosses right there. Just make four zigzag angle brackets to hold the amp. The rear speaker wiring is right there (I used the high level inputs). And the speakers are attach to the hand rails - out of the way of any luggage/packing.

It came out great. The amp has enough oomph to drive another speaker using the bridged output. I might someday cram a woofer into the glove box area. I am happy for now. :clap2:

13825
Amp fits comfortably under the seat.

13826
Input wiring is right there!

13827
Testing ....

13828
And done.

What type and where did you get the connector to plug into the rear speaker leads/connector

Thanks Jimmy (Papa Tater)

[stevenolts]

If I have 2 sets of the JBLS then will they sound ok with the OEM amp?
I thought that the stereo was the same as the full goldwing. Doesn't it user the rear speakers? Does it sound good?
Steve

[stevenolts]

I have the OEM speakers, the J&M upgraded speakers (2nd Gen) and now 2 sets of the JBL's. (currently use the JBL's in fairing)

Can I get the JBL's to work with the OEM amp for bothfront and back (all 4 speakers will be the same)?
Steve

[98valk]

What type and where did you get the connector to plug into the rear speaker leads/connector

Thanks Jimmy (Papa Tater)


I had some 4 pin connectors that I bought a while back. They fit OEM in some places, but not others. They did not fit the OEM rear speaker 4 pin connector. But, I cut one of them up a bit and forced it into place. Then taped it all up. :shhh:

In other words, I do not know exactly what connector you need or where to get it. I know that mine did not work correctly. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

[98valk]

I have the OEM speakers, the J&M upgraded speakers (2nd Gen) and now 2 sets of the JBL's. (currently use the JBL's in fairing)

Can I get the JBL's to work with the OEM amp for bothfront and back (all 4 speakers will be the same)?
Steve

Yes ... But, my gut instinct is that the front speakers will still sound louder due to their chamber, the windshield effect and the distance from the front vs the rear. Will have to see how much the fader will be needed. It would be a shame to have to turn down the front speakers to match the rears.

[Papa Tater]

I had some 4 pin connectors that I bought a while back. They fit OEM in some places, but not others. They did not fit the OEM rear speaker 4 pin connector. But, I cut one of them up a bit and forced it into place. Then taped it all up. :shhh:

In other words, I do not know exactly what connector you need or where to get it. I know that mine did not work correctly. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

Thanks 98valk , I have looked all over and I can't find info on that. Only thing I found was one from showchrome, for 2001-2005 Goldwings but nothing for newer since they all come with rear speakers 2006 and up, and unsure if its the same connector?- probably not. Also nothing clear on Hondas Part Site, Partzilla-etc, hope someone chimes in. Wanting to make a premade harness before taking my bike apart. I'm just going to add an mono amp and a single subwoofer with a remote gain controller to balance and up the bass as needed, going to leave the front speakers stock for now. Trying a different approach than others have so far and hopefully works out, I shall see.

[98valk]

Thanks 98valk , I have looked all over and I can't find info on that. Only thing I found was one from showchrome, for 2001-2005 Goldwings but nothing for newer since they all come with rear speakers 2006 and up, and unsure if its the same connector?- probably not. Also nothing clear on Hondas Part Site, Partzilla-etc, hope someone chimes in. Wanting to make a premade harness before taking my bike apart. I'm just going to add an mono amp and a single subwoofer with a remote gain controller to balance and up the bass as needed, going to leave the front speakers stock for now. Trying a different approach than others have so far and hopefully works out, I shall see.

I did some searching and found the same as you did. Rear speaker harnesses are available for 2001-2005 models.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-GOLDWING-GL-1800-GL1800-TRUNK-TOP-CASE-SPEAKER-WIRING-WIRE-LOOM-REAR-1-/271985986827?hash=item3f53a0cd0b:g:4l4AAOSwQPlV9tH z&vxp=mtr ($23)

Now if I were a bettin' sort of guy (which I am with your money :) ), I would bet the wiring is different, but the connector is the same. You are going to modify the wiring anyway ... :stirthepot:

[Papa Tater]

I did some searching and found the same as you did. Rear speaker harnesses are available for 2001-2005 models.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-GOLDWING-GL-1800-GL1800-TRUNK-TOP-CASE-SPEAKER-WIRING-WIRE-LOOM-REAR-1-/271985986827?hash=item3f53a0cd0b:g:4l4AAOSwQPlV9tH z&vxp=mtr ($23)

Now if I were a bettin' sort of guy (which I am with your money :) ), I would bet the wiring is different, but the connector is the same. You are going to modify the wiring anyway ... :stirthepot:

Nothing ventured , nothing gained. I may do the $20+ gamble. The wiring color no big deal and with that said, they just don't make them for F6B's since they don't have rear speakers and all newer Goldwing's already have them. WHY NOT TRY. I will verify after trail and error and for the 1st 23 People that ask for this info , a $1.00 fee each LOL- just kidding (J/K). I will post soon on my findings so others will know in the future, and thanks again 98valk for trying.

[Jimmytee]

Oh for pete's sake , use the wiring diagram, cut the plug and make your own connections. :icon_wink:

[53driver]

Oh for pete's sake , use the wiring diagram, cut the plug and make your own connections. :icon_wink:

Who IS this "pete" you speak of?????

[Papa Tater]

Oh for pete's sake , use the wiring diagram, cut the plug and make your own connections. :icon_wink:

LOL - Just a preference for me, don't like cutting wires if I don't have to and easier to put back to stock if needed.

[pilotguy299]

LOL - Just a preference for me, don't like cutting wires if I don't have to and easier to put back to stock if needed.

Same here! I don't like modding wiring that much away from stock.

Positaps might be a thing to consider.

[Papa Tater]

Nothing ventured , nothing gained. I may do the $20+ gamble. The wiring color no big deal and with that said, they just don't make them for F6B's since they don't have rear speakers and all newer Goldwing's already have them. WHY NOT TRY. I will verify after trail and error and for the 1st 23 People that ask for this info , a $1.00 fee each LOL- just kidding (J/K). I will post soon on my findings so others will know in the future, and thanks again 98valk for trying.


Figured it out Finally - have a post coming soon.