Another Dirtstiff Speaker Thread

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

OK, so -
In my quest to find the perfect motorcycle speaker, I came across these.

I have spent a small fortune in my lifetime in loudspeakers and amps, with my favorite brand being Polk Audio, until today.

I wouldn't post this unless I was so impressed with both the sound quality with the OEM amp and how they perform with my aftermarket amp.

This speaker out performs oem speakers hands down with the oem amp and does an even better job with an aftermarket amp.

It's a 3 way speaker, meaning excellent base, mid range and tweeter highs.

It takes a meager 60 watts RMS to bring it alive.

I've never believed a 3 way loud speaker could sound better and louder, than a coaxial or 2 way speaker, but this speaker kicks, in all categories.

Another cool point is that it's a 6.5" speaker that requires no trimming to make fit. They take a bit of hand persuasion to bend the basket, but go in, in about 10 minutes.

They are also a 2 ohm speaker, which better matches our OEM amp resistance.

Did I say it rocks.. Again, I've always been a Polk fan for loud speakers, but this guy is definately a rival.

And finally, the price point of this quality speaker is ridiculous.. Amazon.

For those of you looking for the perfect oem up grade with no new amp, I highly recommend these.... after going around the block several times..

Wait..wait for it. I'm sure no sponsor offer these, but I had to share them with you all.
19232

19233
19234

JBL Audio GTO Series 638

Jim

[BIGLRY]

sure would like to hear them as the price is super okay
http://www.amazon.com/GTO638-6-5-Inch-3-Way-Speakers-Pair/dp/B003KN2TF8

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

OK, so -
In my quest to find the perfect motorcycle speaker, I came across these.

I have spent a small fortune in my lifetime in loudspeakers and amps, with my favorite brand being Polk Audio, until today.

I wouldn't post this unless I was so impressed with both the sound quality with the OEM amp and how they perform with my aftermarket amp.

This speaker out performs oem speakers hands down with the oem amp and does an even better job with an aftermarket amp.

It's a 3 way speaker, meaning excellent base, mid range and tweeter highs.

It takes a meager 60 watts RMS to bring it alive.

I've never believed a 3 way loud speaker could sound better and louder, than a coaxial or 2 way speaker, but this speaker kicks, in all categories.

Another cool point is that it's a 6.5" speaker that requires no trimming to make fit. They take a bit of hand persuasion to bend the basket, but go in, in about 10 minutes.

They are also a 2 ohm speaker, which better matches our OEM amp resistance.

Did I say it rocks.. Again, I've always been a Polk fan for loud speakers, but this guy is definately a rival.

And finally, the price point of this quality speaker is ridiculous.. Amazon.

For those of you looking for the perfect oem up grade with no new amp, I highly recommend these.... after going around the block several times..

Wait..wait for it. I'm sure none of our site sponsor"s offer these, but I had to share them with you all.
19232

19233
19234

JBL Audio GTO Series 638

Jim


I have some video - audio, I will try to post.
They sound great .

Max volume on the oem amp sound great; clear, loud an no distortion.
With my Polk amp, they rock the neighborhood.

[Willl]

Looking forward to hearing them in person :icon_cool:

With my stock set up, Chuck's J&M set up and now your JBL set up we should be able to do a nice comparison :yes:

I'll bring the db meter, sound quality will be subjective but we could do a blind sound test

[Jrockr]

I love jbl and bought some for my bike to but I haven't had time to install them, so I look forward to your thread as do a lot of other people ..

[Patch]

Awesome find. How did you get the magnet to fit on the back side? Did you have to shave that plastic area where the crossbar is on both sides ? I tried to find a 6in speaker on Saturday to replace mine but noticed the magnet butts right up against the plastic liner and won't take a set of Alpine SDS610s. The magnet is about the same size as what those JBLs look to have.

Looks great...can't wait to hear them.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Awesome find. How did you get the magnet to fit on the back side? Did you have to shave that plastic area where the crossbar is on both sides ? I tried to find a 6in speaker on Saturday to replace mine but noticed the magnet butts right up against the plastic liner and won't take a set of Alpine SDS610s. The magnet is about the same size as what those JBLs look to have.

Looks great...can't wait to hear them.
Patch -


Ancient Chinese secret. .. mount the speaker upside, down, so the voice coil is up and doesn't hit the cross bar you described.

No shaving, trimming, cutting, anything but a beverage, required.

Jim

[F6Pilot]

Thanks for the info. I was out riding today and wished the whole time I had some better audio. I upgraded to J&M last year and still was not impressed. I'm ordering these now.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Looking forward to hearing them in person :icon_cool:

With my stock set up, Chuck's J&M set up and now your JBL set up we should be able to do a nice comparison :yes:

I'll bring the db meter, sound quality will be subjective but we could do a blind sound test

I'll see if I can pull Ray Charles in for a double blind test..
Alright, maybe bad taste and not too funny.
Bring your ear plugs, kleenex and wallet$$. J/K

I'm no sponsor and get nothing from these speaker companies but smiles per hour.
J

[MisterB]

Looking forward to hearing them in person :icon_cool:

With my stock set up, Chuck's J&M set up and now your JBL set up we should be able to do a nice comparison :yes:

I'll bring the db meter, sound quality will be subjective but we could do a blind sound test
If this meetup happens could you A/B between OEM and JBL running off OEM amp using balance control and db meter?

I'm in if they're at least as loud as the OEM and extend the highs and lows.
The damn OEM are crazy efficient and to my old ears don't sound horrible.
Hard to get much more bass out of those little plastic cabinets, but I'll take it if JBL is offering.
A little more sizzle and presence would be welcome also as since turning 50 I've noticed a lack of it in every speaker. Guessing the problem isn't the speakers.

Dirtstiff, thank you for your tireless quest for the ultimate replacement speaks!

[ths61]

Jim, nice find. Which speakers are these replacing. I think you started out with PA 651 dxi's.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

https://youtu.be/qrbzfe8phic

[blueverclear]

Nice write up. I actually heard some jbl speakers in Best Buy the other day, they were the best sounding speakers in the car audio section hands down.

So for the guys who are running aftermarket speakers, do you disconnect your factory tweeter or leave it connected?

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

https://youtu.be/ZyO4lUcRPsg

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

https://youtu.be/asMVrAT9YMA

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Nice write up. I actually heard some jbl speakers in Best Buy the other day, they were the best sounding speakers in the car audio section hands down.

So for the guys who are running aftermarket speakers, do you disconnect your factory tweeter or leave it connected?

Yes, disconnect the factory tweeter.
Sorry, the YouTube cuts with my Samsung just don't do the speakers justice.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Jim, nice find. Which speakers are these replacing. I think you started out with PA 651 dxi's.

To be honest, I've had the db, dxi, MM and liked them all. The ones I liked best, which the GTO's are replacing, are the DXI 651's. Nothing wrong with any. These JBL GTO 638 seem to have better bass and mids. Volume is the same, they just have a rich, fuller sound. If that makes sense.
My neighbors say it does.

Jim

[Patch]

Ancient Chinese secret. .. mount the speaker upside, down, so the voice coil is up and doesn't hit the cross bar you described.

No shaving, trimming, cutting, anything but a beverage, required.

Jim

Thanks on the tip, tried this already. I was using a set of Rockford Fosgate R165X3 Prime Series. I can fit them with the lower two screws inserted but because the coil and magnets are large, I think there is definitely a clearance problem. Both sides on the top sit too far out to get the other set of screws in, and the plastic cover doesn't seem to want to settle properly like that. All good, it looks like the JBLs fit without too much finagling.

[Patch]

FYI...Just tried the Alpines again for sanity sake...same thing as the RF's...the coil/magnet is just too big.

[Heavvyduty]

OK, so -
In my quest to find the perfect motorcycle speaker, I came across these.

I have spent a small fortune in my lifetime in loudspeakers and amps, with my favorite brand being Polk Audio, until today.

I wouldn't post this unless I was so impressed with both the sound quality with the OEM amp and how they perform with my aftermarket amp.

This speaker out performs oem speakers hands down with the oem amp and does an even better job with an aftermarket amp.

It's a 3 way speaker, meaning excellent base, mid range and tweeter highs.

It takes a meager 60 watts RMS to bring it alive.

I've never believed a 3 way loud speaker could sound better and louder, than a coaxial or 2 way speaker, but this speaker kicks, in all categories.

Another cool point is that it's a 6.5" speaker that requires no trimming to make fit. They take a bit of hand persuasion to bend the basket, but go in, in about 10 minutes.

They are also a 2 ohm speaker, which better matches our OEM amp resistance.

Did I say it rocks.. Again, I've always been a Polk fan for loud speakers, but this guy is definately a rival.

And finally, the price point of this quality speaker is ridiculous.. Amazon.

For those of you looking for the perfect oem up grade with no new amp, I highly recommend these.... after going around the block several times..

Wait..wait for it. I'm sure no sponsor offer these, but I had to share them with you all.
19232

19233
19234

JBL Audio GTO Series 638

Jim


On a scale of 1 to 10 with the stock speakers being a 1. How would you rate these speaker,s with the stock amp thats in the bike already. I dont want to mess with the amp. Tks

[Hornblower]

I could get excited about these speakers myself but what happens when they get wet? I see no mention of having a marine rating.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I could get excited about these speakers myself but what happens when they get wet? I see no mention of having a marine rating.


They are car speakers not a Marine application.
I'm comfortable with the materials their made with and the wires and exposed coils are coated.
No component speaker likes water sprayed into the mid and tweeter directly. With these behind the shelter and speaker batting behind, I have no concen.
I also don't wash the bike at the car wash with high pressure hose.
And it does rain up here a bit.

If they were Marine rated, I doubt they'd be at this price point. They have a good guarantee otherwise.

JMO Jim

[willtill]

Did you have to modify any of the bike's speaker connections; for these speakers?

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Did you have to modify any of the bike's speaker connections; for these speakers?


Will,
To be honest, I ran all new wires when I added my amp and cannot remember what the oem terminals were like.
I thought they are universal female spade connections whereby the large spade is positive + and the small negative.
Should be ok using oem wires and connections unless you make a significant amp change.

JMO Jim

[willtill]

Will,
To be honest, I ran all new wires when I added my amp and cannot remember what the oem terminals were like.
I thought they are universal female spade connections whereby the large spade is positive + and the small negative.
Should be ok using oem wires and connections unless you make a significant amp change.

JMO Jim

Thanks Jim :yes:

[53driver]

Where is the OEM crossover? In the amp? If so, new wires will have to be run to utilize the crossover in the JBLs.

[Jimmytee]

Where is the OEM crossover? In the amp? If so, new wires will have to be run to utilize the crossover in the JBLs.

The OEM speakers only utilize a high pass filter for the OEM tweeter which is located on the OEM tweeter. The OEM woofer getS the full signal.

[53driver]

The OEM speakers only utilize a high pass filter for the OEM tweeter which is located on the OEM tweeter. The OEM woofer getS the full signal.

Got it. The full signal comes all the way to the speakers. Makes installing new speakers easier!
Thanks Jimmytee!

[98valk]

They are also a 2 ohm speaker, which better matches our OEM amp resistance.

Jim

Thanks for the info and doing all the experimenting.

Not trying to be negative, but I don't get the quote above. Where did you get the info that the OEM amp prefers a 2 ohm speaker? Are you sure the OEM amp can handle a 2 ohm load continuously?

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Thanks for the info and doing all the experimenting.

Not trying to be negative, but I don't get the quote above. Where did you get the info that the OEM amp prefers a 2 ohm speaker? Are you sure the OEM amp can handle a 2 ohm load continuously?


Better explained, the oem speakers are 3.7 ohm.
These JBL work with both a 4 ohm rating and 2 ohm.
J

[53driver]

The JBL speakers are rated at a 2 Ohm load, per the website.
It would be nice to know if the OEM amp was rated to handle a 2 Ohm load.
Many amps (in the pro audio world) are not rated to go that low.
I know 12 volt stereo gear is a different animal though.....

[ths61]

https://youtu.be/asMVrAT9YMA

Who is performing this guitar riff ?

TIA

[wjduke]

Who is performing this guitar riff ?

TIA

Stevie Ray

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

http://www.amazon.com/GTO638-6-5-Inch-3-Way-Speakers-Pair/dp/B003KN2TF8#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1 456768921062

Brian at Product Support - 877.289.7664

Confirms the new JBL GTO wI'll work with 4 ohm and 2 ohm
Description
Product Description
GTO638 Hit the road with the big, rich, detailed sound that makes JBL® products famous. The GTO638 deploys the serious bass of a Plus One® woofer cone and an edge-driven My-Ti™ super tweeter that produces extended high frequencies, just as the best home audio speakers do. In the GTO638, you’ll find attention to detail rarely given to car audio. And it’s a game-changer. Select features to learn more: Patented Plus One® woofer cone Patented Plus One® woofer cone Our proprietary Plus One® woofer cone (patent number 7,548,631) is exceptionally stiff and lightweight and has up to 25 percent more active surface area than you’ll ever find on competing models of the same size. It delivers an audible increase in bass output and efficiency. Home theater-quality tweeter Home theater-quality tweeter The GTO683 has a high-bandwidth, edge-driven textile-dome tweeter with a large voice coil, just as high-end home audio loudspeakers do. The tweeter’s My-Ti™ (a proprietary Mylar®-titanium blend) alloy delivers great power handling, extended high frequencies and seamless integration with the woofer. True sound from built-in crossover network True sound from built-in crossover network By using a built-in crossover network with advanced high-pass and low-pass filters, the GTO638 creates a smooth transition between the woofer and tweeter. The result? Midrange vocals that sound so natural and lifelike, you’d think the vocalist was sitting in the passenger seat. Easy, patented Intermount III mounting system Easy, patented Intermount III mounting system The Intermount III (patent number 6,505,705) system makes installation easy. Using its JBL® installation rings (included), you can fit the GTO638 into factory-built installation locations varying from 6 to 6-3/4 inches. It even simplifies the replacing of aftermarket speakers. Can be safely driven by any head unit Can be safely driven by any head unit The GTO638 is compatible with aftermarket head units and factory-installed systems. Designed to replace factory-installed OEM (original-equipment manufacturer) speakers, the GTO638 is easily installed into nearly any factory-built 6-1/2-inch location – and doing it won’t require special tools or modifications. Genuine 4-ohm performance Genuine 4-ohm performance For the most powerful performance, the GTO638 makes the best use of any amplifier by providing an optimum 2-ohm load. It uses a lower-impedance voice coil than a typical speaker to extract the most power and performance possible from all amplifiers engineered to drive loads of 4 ohms or less. Outstanding audio output Outstanding audio output This muscular speaker offers 180 watts of peak power. Hit the gas and have fun. What's in the box: View contents What's in the box • (2) GTO638 speakers• (2) Mounting brackets• (2) Grilles• (2) Buffer for mounting bracket/grille• (4) Sets of speaker wire• (16) Screws• (1) Owner's Manual Download: Manuals & More Manuals & More Owner's Manual English: 1850.95KB PDF Warranty English: 286.3KB PDF
Amazon.com
The 6.5-inch GTO638 is a perfect replacement for those factory speakers, delivering smooth, accurate audio thanks to technologies like JBL's Plus One woofer cone, edge-driven mylar-titanium tweeter and supertweeter, and a built-in crossover network.


The GTO tweeter is both strong and light weight
while being adjustable

The Plus One woofer cone increases
bass output and efficiency
Why JBL Sound?
For more than 60 years, JBL products have been bringing home the impact and excitement of the world's best recording studios, movie theaters and concert venues. Now, JBL engineers are creating these world-class listening experiences in the car. Thanks to advanced technology developed in the professional arena, JBL mobile products simply sound better than the competition. High output, superb bass response, long life and smooth response are all things you can expect from any speaker that wears the JBL badge. So join enthusiasts who know audio, and don't settle for anything but JBL in your vehicle. Bring the sound of the show on the road.

Listen Loud
The last thing you want to worry about is the quality of your speakers. We understand. All new JBL mobile products have to go through nearly 500 hours of environmental testing. We put them under temperatures fluctuating between -35° C and +90° C with up to 90 percent air humidity for more than 200 hours. We expose speakers to UV light for more than 150 hours to simulate a mounting location on a car's rear deck. We even shake things up, as all of our new mobile audio products have to pass extensive vibration testing before we release them for production. We've made unparalleled efforts to ensure the best possible quality so that you can listen long and loud when you crank up a JBL speaker.

Edge-Driven, Mylar-Titanium Super Tweeter
The JBL GTO638 uses a 1/2-inch (12-millimeter) Mylar-titanium (My-Ti) super tweeter with a large voice coil--much like a voice coil found in high-end home audio speakers. The benefit of the Mylar and titanium blend in making a tweeter is that it is lightweight and has remarkable strength. At the same time, its large voice coil increases power handling and reduces distortion at high output levels. This tweeter design also helps create more seamless integration with the woofer. The GTO638's tweeter is even adjustable, so you can modify it to optimize the sound. The result? Crystal-clear, extended high frequencies for true, high-end, audiophile-quality performance.

Edge-Driven, Mylar-Titanium Tweeter
For extra smooth and detailed sound, the JBL GTO638 speakers use a one-inch (25-millimeter), Mylar-titanium (My-Ti). The addition of this dedicated driver allows the GTO638s to deliver rich sound through the midrange frequencies where most of the vocals in music can be found. This extra detail in the midrange, paired with the �super� tweeter and woofer, means that the GTO638ss deliver true, audiophile-quality performance worthy of even the best home speaker.


Look for the True 4 ohm logo for the best real world performance

Intermount III makes installation into any factory location simple
Built-in Crossover Networks
Typical entry level mobile loudspeakers use low performance bass blockers to keep bass from going to the tweeter. Well, the JBL GTO638 is not your typical entry-level loudspeaker. By using a built-in crossover network with advanced high and low pass filters, the GTO638 creates a smooth transition between the woofer and tweeter. The result? Midrange vocals that sound so natural and lifelike you think you the artist were right in the car with you.

Bass that Booms
Plus One Cone
The JBL GTO638 uses a 6-1/2-inch (160-millimeter) woofer with the patent-pending JBL Plus One cone technology. Plus One technology gives the GTO638 more cone surface than competing models of the same size--up to 30 percent more in many cases. With a larger cone area, the GTO638 speakers provide higher efficiency and better bass response. Add a low-Q woofer design for higher bass output from the typical mounting location and 180-watt peak power handling, and the GTO638 will really get your car booming.

Powerful Performance
True 4-Ohm Topology
Low-impedance speaker voice coils extract more power from your amp for more powerful performance than high-impedance coils do. JBL GTO638 speakers use a lower-impedance voice coil than a typical 4-ohm speaker to extract the most power possible from all amplifiers engineered to drive loads of 4 ohms or less. And the GTO638's are compatible with both aftermarket head units and factory-installed systems. Since many factory-installed systems incorporate 2-ohm speakers and include amplifiers designed to drive 2-ohm loads, replacing those reduced-impedance speakers with a typical 4-ohm model will reduce the power output from the amplifier. For the most powerful performance, the GTO638's make the best use of any amplifier by providing an optimum 2-ohm load.

An Easy Install
Intermount III (Patent Number 6,505,705) Mounting System
Doing it yourself? Installing GTO638 speakers in nearly any factory-built location is a breeze. Designed as replacements for factory-installed OEM speakers, they easily install into nearly any factory-built 6-1/2-inch location without requiring any special tools or modifications. To make installation even easier, the GTO638s use JBL's patented Intermount III mounting system. Depending on the vehicle, the factory-built 6-1/2-inch location can actually vary in size from 6 inches all the way up to 6-3/4 inches, thanks to the GTO638's included installation rings. Even if you are upgrading an older set of aftermarket speakers, the GTO638 makes replacing them easy.

And with such easy installation, you'll be listening to your new JBL speakers in no time at all.



The JBL GTO638s deliver high output, superb bass response, long life and smooth response.
Highlights
Great JBL Sound Quality
3-way design delivers true audiophile sound quality
Plus One woofer cones for the high output and deep bass
True 4-Ohm design pulls the most power out of your system
Easy to install
What's in the Box
One pair of JBL GTO638 3-way loudspeakers, one set of installation hardware, one set of Intermount III rings


Now you all know what I know.. Use them on your system or bike at your own risk...

J

[blueverclear]

Thanks for the info and doing all the experimenting.

Not trying to be negative, but I don't get the quote above. Where did you get the info that the OEM amp prefers a 2 ohm speaker? Are you sure the OEM amp can handle a 2 ohm load continuously?

You took the words right out of my mouth lol i've actually blown the internal amp on a high dollar Pioneer head unit on my other bike because I was running polk MM speakers without an amp. Most factory and aftermarket head units/amps are 4 ohm stable.

I think I am gonna pull the trigger and buy a set for my bike, even if it eventually grenades my factory amp its just an excuse to buy an better aftermarket one lol. I am gonna purchase them from sonic electronic because the are 69.99 there, which is already a good price, and for $8 more you can purchase a 3 year warranty on the speakers. So if you do have any issues with them you can just send them back and get a new pair for free. Here is the link.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17735_JBL-GTO638.html

It clearly states on the sonic electronics website: "Can be safely powered by any headunit" so e will see if they are telling the truth lol. Thanks Dirtstiff for doing the legwork, they sound great!

Grant

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Who is performing this guitar riff ?

TIA


Stevie Ray Vaughn and Double Trouble.

Read the cut sheet above and call Technical Support..

Now you all know what I know about these JBL speakers...
Use them on your bike or stereo system at your own risk

[blueverclear]

Stevie Ray Vaughn and Double Trouble.

Read the cut sheet above and call Technical Support..

Now you all know what I know about these JBL speakers...
Use them on your bike or stereo system at your own risk

Well thats a much better spec sheet than whats on the sonic electronic website lol but I still think I will order from them and get that 3 year warranty! :icon_biggrin:

[ths61]

To be honest, I've had the db, dxi, MM and liked them all. The ones I liked best, which the GTO's are replacing, are the DXI 651's. Nothing wrong with any. These JBL GTO 638 seem to have better bass and mids. Volume is the same, they just have a rich, fuller sound. If that makes sense.
My neighbors say it does.

Jim

Jim, To clarify why do you like the DXI 651's best (or are they now 2nd best to the GTO 638) ?

TIA

[willtill]

Had to get my head around this Ohm's value. The below is stolen from the web:

Why are ohms important?

Two reasons:
(1) If you connect your amplifier to the wrong speaker impedance, you risk damaging the amp. In tube amps, too high a load impedance (or a disconnected load) can result in damage to the output tubes or output transformer, while in solid state amps, if the speaker impedance is too low, the amplifier will tend to overheat and more power is used up in the amplifier than is delivered to the speaker. Too many speakers on a solid state amp can burn up the power output section.

(2) The amplifier will deliver maximum power (volume) to the speaker when the speaker impedance matches (is equal to) the internal impedance (called the OUTPUT IMPEDANCE) of the amplifier. Too low an impedance will result in weak output and poor tone. If the speaker impedance is higher than that of the amplifier, its power output will again be less than it is capable of.

So does our stoclk OEM amplifier have a dynamic output range from 2-4 ohms? Is that even possible?

[Old Ryder]

I could get excited about these speakers myself but what happens when they get wet? I see no mention of having a marine rating.

I am with Ken on this one. My bike tends to get wet at times. That is the only thing holding me back. I bought the J&M and are not especially thrilled. JBL has always impressed me. My son got a JBL surround system a few years ago, and I like it better than my Bose even though it was 25% of the price. JBL makes a good product. I just want to make sure of the application.

[choptop]

Ordered a pair yesterday even though my J&M set just came in last Friday, just burning threw that retarment money.

[stepbill]

Ordered a pair yesterday even though my J&M set just came in last Friday, just burning threw that retarment money.

Would love to hear a comparison between the J&M and the JBL. My J&M are do in on Friday. Bought from Wingstuff - thought that I would throw them a plug :icon_biggrin:!

[Hornblower]

I am with Ken on this one. My bike tends to get wet at times. That is the only thing holding me back. I bought the J&M and are not especially thrilled. JBL has always impressed me. My son got a JBL surround system a few years ago, and I like it better than my Bose even though it was 25% of the price. JBL makes a good product. I just want to make sure of the application.

It seems our experiences are similar. I also started with the previous model J&M...maybe slightly better than stock but NOT impressed.

Yeah, the whole water issue on these JBL's does concern me. If, in fact, the materials these speakers are constructed with had decent resistance to moisture, it seems JBL would have mentioned it. And, I don't think it would necessarily take a pressure washer to cause trouble. Most likely, the speakers will get wet from rain and regular washing. It might take some time but I have to wonder if the speakers will fail due to that. Still, the price is right on these speakers and, from what has been reported, they do sound much better than stock. Maybe it's worth the gamble :shrug:.

[stepbill]

It seems our experiences are similar. I also started with the previous model J&M...maybe slightly better than stock but NOT impressed.

Yeah, the whole water issue on these JBL's does concern me. If, in fact, the materials these speakers are constructed with had decent resistance to moisture, it seems JBL would have mentioned it. And, I don't think it would necessarily take a pressure washer to cause trouble. Most likely, the speakers will get wet from rain and regular washing. It might take some time but I have to wonder if the speakers will fail due to that. Still, the price is right on these speakers and, from what has been reported, they do sound much better than stock. Maybe it's worth the gamble :shrug:.

That's kind of what I was thinking and keep the J&M as backup. I also use Shure 535 ear buds with custom sleeves that I use for long trips. I can still hear around me but the music really comes alive!

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

http://www.amazon.com/GTO638-6-5-Inch-3-Way-Speakers-Pair/dp/B003KN2TF8#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1 456768921062

Brian at Product Support - 877.289.7664


Confirms the new JBL GTO wI'll work with 4 ohm and 2 ohm
Description
Product Description
GTO638 Hit the road with the big, rich, detailed sound that makes JBL® products famous. The GTO638 deploys the serious bass of a Plus One® woofer cone and an edge-driven My-Ti™ super tweeter that produces extended high frequencies, just as the best home audio speakers do. In the GTO638, you’ll find attention to detail rarely given to car audio. And it’s a game-changer. Select features to learn more: Patented Plus One® woofer cone Patented Plus One® woofer cone Our proprietary Plus One® woofer cone (patent number 7,548,631) is exceptionally stiff and lightweight and has up to 25 percent more active surface area than you’ll ever find on competing models of the same size. It delivers an audible increase in bass output and efficiency. Home theater-quality tweeter Home theater-quality tweeter The GTO683 has a high-bandwidth, edge-driven textile-dome tweeter with a large voice coil, just as high-end home audio loudspeakers do. The tweeter’s My-Ti™ (a proprietary Mylar®-titanium blend) alloy delivers great power handling, extended high frequencies and seamless integration with the woofer. True sound from built-in crossover network True sound from built-in crossover network By using a built-in crossover network with advanced high-pass and low-pass filters, the GTO638 creates a smooth transition between the woofer and tweeter. The result? Midrange vocals that sound so natural and lifelike, you’d think the vocalist was sitting in the passenger seat. Easy, patented Intermount III mounting system Easy, patented Intermount III mounting system The Intermount III (patent number 6,505,705) system makes installation easy. Using its JBL® installation rings (included), you can fit the GTO638 into factory-built installation locations varying from 6 to 6-3/4 inches. It even simplifies the replacing of aftermarket speakers. Can be safely driven by any head unit Can be safely driven by any head unit The GTO638 is compatible with aftermarket head units and factory-installed systems. Designed to replace factory-installed OEM (original-equipment manufacturer) speakers, the GTO638 is easily installed into nearly any factory-built 6-1/2-inch location – and doing it won’t require special tools or modifications. Genuine 4-ohm performance Genuine 4-ohm performance For the most powerful performance, the GTO638 makes the best use of any amplifier by providing an optimum 2-ohm load. It uses a lower-impedance voice coil than a typical speaker to extract the most power and performance possible from all amplifiers engineered to drive loads of 4 ohms or less. Outstanding audio output Outstanding audio output This muscular speaker offers 180 watts of peak power. Hit the gas and have fun. What's in the box: View contents What's in the box • (2) GTO638 speakers• (2) Mounting brackets• (2) Grilles• (2) Buffer for mounting bracket/grille• (4) Sets of speaker wire• (16) Screws• (1) Owner's Manual Download: Manuals & More Manuals & More Owner's Manual English: 1850.95KB PDF Warranty English: 286.3KB PDF
Amazon.com
The 6.5-inch GTO638 is a perfect replacement for those factory speakers, delivering smooth, accurate audio thanks to technologies like JBL's Plus One woofer cone, edge-driven mylar-titanium tweeter and supertweeter, and a built-in crossover network.


The GTO tweeter is both strong and light weight
while being adjustable

The Plus One woofer cone increases
bass output and efficiency
Why JBL Sound?
For more than 60 years, JBL products have been bringing home the impact and excitement of the world's best recording studios, movie theaters and concert venues. Now, JBL engineers are creating these world-class listening experiences in the car. Thanks to advanced technology developed in the professional arena, JBL mobile products simply sound better than the competition. High output, superb bass response, long life and smooth response are all things you can expect from any speaker that wears the JBL badge. So join enthusiasts who know audio, and don't settle for anything but JBL in your vehicle. Bring the sound of the show on the road.

Listen Loud
The last thing you want to worry about is the quality of your speakers. We understand. All new JBL mobile products have to go through nearly 500 hours of environmental testing. We put them under temperatures fluctuating between -35° C and +90° C with up to 90 percent air humidity for more than 200 hours. We expose speakers to UV light for more than 150 hours to simulate a mounting location on a car's rear deck. We even shake things up, as all of our new mobile audio products have to pass extensive vibration testing before we release them for production. We've made unparalleled efforts to ensure the best possible quality so that you can listen long and loud when you crank up a JBL speaker.

Edge-Driven, Mylar-Titanium Super Tweeter
The JBL GTO638 uses a 1/2-inch (12-millimeter) Mylar-titanium (My-Ti) super tweeter with a large voice coil--much like a voice coil found in high-end home audio speakers. The benefit of the Mylar and titanium blend in making a tweeter is that it is lightweight and has remarkable strength. At the same time, its large voice coil increases power handling and reduces distortion at high output levels. This tweeter design also helps create more seamless integration with the woofer. The GTO638's tweeter is even adjustable, so you can modify it to optimize the sound. The result? Crystal-clear, extended high frequencies for true, high-end, audiophile-quality performance.

Edge-Driven, Mylar-Titanium Tweeter
For extra smooth and detailed sound, the JBL GTO638 speakers use a one-inch (25-millimeter), Mylar-titanium (My-Ti). The addition of this dedicated driver allows the GTO638s to deliver rich sound through the midrange frequencies where most of the vocals in music can be found. This extra detail in the midrange, paired with the �super� tweeter and woofer, means that the GTO638ss deliver true, audiophile-quality performance worthy of even the best home speaker.


Look for the True 4 ohm logo for the best real world performance

Intermount III makes installation into any factory location simple
Built-in Crossover Networks
Typical entry level mobile loudspeakers use low performance bass blockers to keep bass from going to the tweeter. Well, the JBL GTO638 is not your typical entry-level loudspeaker. By using a built-in crossover network with advanced high and low pass filters, the GTO638 creates a smooth transition between the woofer and tweeter. The result? Midrange vocals that sound so natural and lifelike you think you the artist were right in the car with you.

Bass that Booms
Plus One Cone
The JBL GTO638 uses a 6-1/2-inch (160-millimeter) woofer with the patent-pending JBL Plus One cone technology. Plus One technology gives the GTO638 more cone surface than competing models of the same size--up to 30 percent more in many cases. With a larger cone area, the GTO638 speakers provide higher efficiency and better bass response. Add a low-Q woofer design for higher bass output from the typical mounting location and 180-watt peak power handling, and the GTO638 will really get your car booming.

Powerful Performance
True 4-Ohm Topology
Low-impedance speaker voice coils extract more power from your amp for more powerful performance than high-impedance coils do. JBL GTO638 speakers use a lower-impedance voice coil than a typical 4-ohm speaker to extract the most power possible from all amplifiers engineered to drive loads of 4 ohms or less. And the GTO638's are compatible with both aftermarket head units and factory-installed systems. Since many factory-installed systems incorporate 2-ohm speakers and include amplifiers designed to drive 2-ohm loads, replacing those reduced-impedance speakers with a typical 4-ohm model will reduce the power output from the amplifier. For the most powerful performance, the GTO638's make the best use of any amplifier by providing an optimum 2-ohm load.

An Easy Install
Intermount III (Patent Number 6,505,705) Mounting System
Doing it yourself? Installing GTO638 speakers in nearly any factory-built location is a breeze. Designed as replacements for factory-installed OEM speakers, they easily install into nearly any factory-built 6-1/2-inch location without requiring any special tools or modifications. To make installation even easier, the GTO638s use JBL's patented Intermount III mounting system. Depending on the vehicle, the factory-built 6-1/2-inch location can actually vary in size from 6 inches all the way up to 6-3/4 inches, thanks to the GTO638's included installation rings. Even if you are upgrading an older set of aftermarket speakers, the GTO638 makes replacing them easy.

And with such easy installation, you'll be listening to your new JBL speakers in no time at all.



The JBL GTO638s deliver high output, superb bass response, long life and smooth response.
Highlights
Great JBL Sound Quality
3-way design delivers true audiophile sound quality
Plus One woofer cones for the high output and deep bass
True 4-Ohm design pulls the most power out of your system
Easy to install
What's in the Box
One pair of JBL GTO638 3-way loudspeakers, one set of installation hardware, one set of Intermount III rings


Now you all know what I know.. Use them on your system or bike at your own risk...

J

My Disclaimer -
I make no representation on behalf of JBL. This is my experience only. Your results may vary.
I'm not responsible for problems encountered during installation or damage some will incur while trying to do this Speaker Modification.
Install these at your own risk.

[Jimmytee]

It seems our experiences are similar. I also started with the previous model J&M...maybe slightly better than stock but NOT impressed.

Yeah, the whole water issue on these JBL's does concern me. If, in fact, the materials these speakers are constructed with had decent resistance to moisture, it seems JBL would have mentioned it. And, I don't think it would necessarily take a pressure washer to cause trouble. Most likely, the speakers will get wet from rain and regular washing. It might take some time but I have to wonder if the speakers will fail due to that. Still, the price is right on these speakers and, from what has been reported, they do sound much better than stock. Maybe it's worth the gamble :shrug:.

I can't speak for these JBL speakers, but really wouldn't be concerned with speakers if the materials used are water resistant. Having the cones made of polypropylene or Kevlar for instance and the surround being a rubber or silicone infused material. Really,any coaxial speaker, imho, whether marine rated or not, is susceptible to water intrusion . The speakers on our F6Bs are pretty well protected from direct water intrusion. Especially while riding. On my Valkyrie, I run 4) Kicker coaxial 5.25" speakers in the fairing that are not marine speakers and have never had an issue. Let me tell you I've been in some major downpours on that bike. I have 2) 6.5" Kicker Marine speakers mounted face up in the saddlebags lids of the Valkyrie. Those speakers have the tweeter bridge mounted so that the woofer is completely sealed. There is no post in the center typical of coaxial speakers. Even though the speakers face up, water never really has a chance to collect in the woofer before it is bounced out from the driver working in and out.

[Hornblower]

JT--I do appreciate and value your perspective on this subject. One thing you mentioned that I had not considered is the vibrating speaker cone shedding water...kind of like a dog shaking the water off after a bath. So, unless you're leaving the bike out in the weather for an extended period of time, maybe the JBL's will hold up. For me, for now, I plan to keep using my Sena BT helmet speakers which makes upgrading the bikes speakers and amp less important.

[ths61]

FWIW, J&M states their speakers are "waterproof from the front" which means the backs are not and our fairings are not water tight as witnessed by the bug collections behind the speaker grills.

I would think as long as you are not exposing them to salt-water and they do not have paper cones, you should be fine. Also, for $50, you can buy 3 pairs for the price of one pair of J&M's.

As for the Ohm rating, I was under the impression our 4 Ohm speakers were run in parallel with the tweeters which brings the total load down towards 2 Ohms. If we disconnect the factory tweeter, aren't we running the same load ?

[Jimmytee]

JT--I do appreciate and value your perspective on this subject. One thing you mentioned that I had not considered is the vibrating speaker cone shedding water...kind of like a dog shaking the water off after a bath. So, unless you're leaving the bike out in the weather for an extended period of time, maybe the JBL's will hold up. For me, for now, I plan to keep using my Sena BT helmet speakers which makes upgrading the bikes speakers and amp less important.

Remember too, that the speakers I referred to about the water bouncing out are the Marine speakers that are mounted in my Valkyrie saddlebag lids face up. I really don't even think the speakers in the F6B will even see water under most conditions unless you are in the habit of pressure washing the dash of you F6B.:icon_wink:

3843

[blueverclear]

So on the standard wing, obviously they have 4 speakers and probably a 4 channel oem amp. Do we have some same 4 channel amp as the stock wing or is it a different amp and only 2 channels. The reason why I am asking is Im thinking about adding 2 more speakers and speaker pods to my tour pak. Wondering if I can use the stock amp or I need to purchase another one.

Grant

[willtill]

All I can find in the Honda F6B repair manual on page 23-22, is that the stock speaker should have a resistance of 3.8 ohm's. I can't find nothing on the Amp output in the manual.

[Jimmytee]

So on the standard wing, obviously they have 4 speakers and probably a 4 channel oem amp. Do we have some same 4 channel amp as the stock wing or is it a different amp and only 2 channels. The reason why I am asking is Im thinking about adding 2 more speakers and speaker pods to my tour pak. Wondering if I can use the stock amp or I need to purchase another one.

Grant It's the same. There are unused speaker taps under your seat.

[98valk]

As for the Ohm rating, I was under the impression our 4 Ohm speakers were run in parallel with the tweeters which brings the total load down towards 2 Ohms. If we disconnect the factory tweeter, aren't we running the same load ?

Good question. The factory tweeter is a 4 ohm 15 watt speaker. BUT - it is in series with a .68uf capacitor. That increases the resistance/impedance of the tweeter to over 200 ohms at 10khz and over 2000 ohms at 1khz.

The 3.8 or 3.7 ohm speaker is in parallel with that 200 to 2000 ohms. So, you still have pretty much that same 3.7/3.8 ohms.


While on this subject: I can't believe that anyone can hear a thing out of the factory tweeters with that .68uf cap in series. I just added 3.3uf capacitors to my factory tweeters (in parallel with the .68uf).

Now they actually make some sound. I can hear some high notes that I didn't used to. If you choose to do this, use some big ass caps (non polarized). They will be dissipating some heat now. Mine are about the size of my thumb up to the first knuckle.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

JBL Product Technical Support - 1.800.336.4525
Very helpful.

Jim

[stepbill]

I'm going to install mine this Saturday and was wondering about the stock tweeters. Did you just not plug the wires back into them?

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I'm going to install mine this Saturday and was wondering about the stock tweeters. Did you just not plug the wires back into them?


Correct, Bill.
Do not connect the stock tweeter. Just tuck the wire away and put dust cap on the back of them. You will no longer use them with the after market speaker.

[98valk]

I'm going to install mine this Saturday and was wondering about the stock tweeters. Did you just not plug the wires back into them?

Per my post above:
I doubt you can tell any difference whether you have the stock tweeters plugged in or not.

The advantage of not plugging them in is not having to disconnect them when you remove the shelter.

For sh!ts & grins, when you have your speakers out during the replacement process, plug in at least one tweeter (no speaker), turn on your radio and "see" what you hear. I'd like to know if you have the same observations that I did (almost nothing).

[stevenolts]

Choptop,

Let me know how they compare to your new J&M speakers. I just installed the J&M last week and they sound pretty good compared to stock. I would like to get away without upgrading the amp. For $50.00 if they are better than the new J&M version they might be worth picking up a pair. Also they can handle a amp upgrade.
Steve

[choptop]

Choptop,

Let me know how they compare to your new J&M speakers. I just installed the J&M last week and they sound pretty good compared to stock. I would like to get away without upgrading the amp. For $50.00 if they are better than the new J&M version they might be worth picking up a pair. Also they can handle a amp upgrade.
Steve

I just got my J&M last week, had not had chance to install them yet, heard both yea's and not so yea's and decided to order the JBL's after so many people raved about them. So the J&M's will sit in the box for a while.

[stepbill]

Choptop,

Let me know how they compare to your new J&M speakers. I just installed the J&M last week and they sound pretty good compared to stock. I would like to get away without upgrading the amp. For $50.00 if they are better than the new J&M version they might be worth picking up a pair. Also they can handle a amp upgrade.
Steve

I thought that according to JimmyTee that we couldn't do just an amp upgrade. I probably read into what was being said and misunderstood. Is it possible?

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I thought that according to JimmyTee that we couldn't do just an amp upgrade. I probably read into what was being said and misunderstood. Is it possible?

Jimmie has a sticky thread about his adventure in modifying his stereo. Go to the Accessory Threads in Forums.
Informative read.

[Jimmytee]

I thought that according to JimmyTee that we couldn't do just an amp upgrade. I probably read into what was being said and misunderstood. Is it possible?

I'm not sure what you mean by "just an amp upgrade". I don't remember saying that. :duck:

If you could clarify, maybe I could clear up any misunderstanding.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

https://youtu.be/1MxJnD84JzU

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

https://youtu.be/rOLibHFjFiM

Just having fun with it..
Videos don't do the sound justice but fun all the same

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

https://youtu.be/OKVf6B7-6Nw

[ths61]

https://youtu.be/OKVf6B7-6Nw


Tsk, tsk, tsk, copyright infringement. :spank: :nono::nono::nono:

[blueverclear]

It's the same. There are unused speaker taps under your seat.


Is that what those open plugs are for?! lol anyone know which wire is which?

[stepbill]

I'm not sure what you mean by "just an amp upgrade". I don't remember saying that. :duck:

If you could clarify, maybe I could clear up any misunderstanding.

I thought that you had said the when you tried an amp with the stock radio that it did not play well and that it may have been how the ECM was configured. Don't forget that I'm damn near 60 and my brain isn't what it used to be :banghead:. That's my story and I'm sticking to it..... :shhh:

[Jimmytee]

Is that what those open plugs are for?! lol anyone know which wire is which?

There are two unused plugs under the seat. One is for an optional passenger intercom and the other is for the rear speakers not used on the F6B

[Jimmytee]

I thought that you had said the when you tried an amp with the stock radio that it did not play well and that it may have been how the ECM was configured. Don't forget that I'm damn near 60 and my brain isn't what it used to be :banghead:. That's my story and I'm sticking to it..... :shhh:

Well kinda sorta. There was more to the story than that. It wasn't quite that simple. I had trouble getting satisfactory sound trying to hook an aftermarket amplifier to the outputs of the OEM amplifier. I ended up tapping the pre-out wiring before it went into the OEM amplifier and removing the OEM amplifier all together. Now, however, I no longer have any of the OEM electronics associated with the stereo system.

[stepbill]

Per my post above:
I doubt you can tell any difference whether you have the stock tweeters plugged in or not.

The advantage of not plugging them in is not having to disconnect them when you remove the shelter.

For sh!ts & grins, when you have your speakers out during the replacement process, plug in at least one tweeter (no speaker), turn on your radio and "see" what you hear. I'd like to know if you have the same observations that I did (almost nothing).

I took off the meter panel and speakers during my lunch break and was curious so I hooked up just the tweeters and you are right, they plan suck. Can not really hear anything at full volume and what you do hear is distorted.

[DarkKnt]

After that endorsement, I had to order them. $58 delivered, can't beat that!

[willtill]

After that endorsement, I had to order them. $58 delivered, can't beat that!

I also ordered a set of JBL's... I am intrigued

[ths61]

I also ordered a set of JBL's... I am intrigued

Same here. Should come sometime next week.

[Hornblower]

Oh what the heck, I ordered a set too "ccsmiley"

[stepbill]

This is my story. It began on a dark and stormy night....

Was able to install the speakers today and they sound really good. They are just as good if not better than the Polk DB651's. That's just my opinion and they can definitely vary. As said before, you have to install them upside down so that it can fit in the hole and even then it is an extremely tight fit. Once I was able to get the speaker almost in, I had to use a flat head screw driver and hammer to move the speaker and align it with the holes. It will fit, just be patient and take your time. The speaker does push against the clear plastic cover right next to it and it might help if you can pre-bend or even slightly cut the outer metal ring some. I have posted a pic of each speaker to show how tight it is.

1940719408

Hope this helps and enjoy!

[willtill]

This is my story. It began on a dark and stormy night....

Was able to install the speakers today and they sound really good. They are just as good if not better than the Polk DB651's. That's just my opinion and they can definitely vary. As said before, you have to install them upside down so that it can fit in the hole and even then it is an extremely tight fit. Once I was able to get the speaker almost in, I had to use a flat head screw driver and hammer to move the speaker and align it with the holes. It will fit, just be patient and take your time. The speaker does push against the clear plastic cover right next to it and it might help if you can pre-bend or even slightly cut the outer metal ring some. I have posted a pic of each speaker to show how tight it is.

1940719408

Hope this helps and enjoy!

Those tips definitely will help us with the install. Thanks! :icon_wink:

[ths61]

This is my story. It began on a dark and stormy night....

Was able to install the speakers today and they sound really good. They are just as good if not better than the Polk DB651's. That's just my opinion and they can definitely vary. As said before, you have to install them upside down so that it can fit in the hole and even then it is an extremely tight fit. Once I was able to get the speaker almost in, I had to use a flat head screw driver and hammer to move the speaker and align it with the holes. It will fit, just be patient and take your time. The speaker does push against the clear plastic cover right next to it and it might help if you can pre-bend or even slightly cut the outer metal ring some. I have posted a pic of each speaker to show how tight it is.

...

Hope this helps and enjoy!

Thanks for the post. Did you measure their impedance before installing ?

Also, which amp are you using ?

[stepbill]

Thanks for the post. Did you measure their impedance before installing ?

Also, which amp are you using ?

No, I did not measure and I'm using the stock amp. I can take it all the way up to 30 but that is too loud. I'll be surprised if it ever goes over 20.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I took off the meter panel and speakers during my lunch break and was curious so I hooked up just the tweeters and you are right, they plan suck. Can not really hear anything at full volume and what you do hear is distorted.


If the speakers were disconnected with just the tweeter connected, you don't have a complete electrical audio circuit. The results you received would be expected.

Glad you like the JBL

J

[stepbill]

If the speakers were disconnected with just the tweeter connected, you don't have a complete electrical audio circuit.

Glad you like the JBL

J

You did good!!!! :yes:

[F6Pilot]

Received mine and installed tonight. Just plugged them into the stock wires with stock amp and wow. I know it's not a sub and not earth shaking but I can actually hear the bass thumping. In my non-audiophile opinion, surpasses stock and J&M.

And yes, pre-bending the sides helped a little but still had to "drive" them into place. Definitely a tight tight fit.

[choptop]

***Disclaimer*** I am not an audio guy, never have been, never will be, but I do like to listen to music and I love my F6b.

Got the J&M speakers in on Monday,read the thread on the JBL's and ordered them, they came in yesterday, just an observation from a booger:icon_wink: eating moron, not related to presidential candidate Cruz, from Wi, the JBL's at half the price w/all you get in the box, including directions, are a hell of a deal in comparison to what came in the J&M box! Now if they sound as good if not better...

[F6Pilot]

***Disclaimer*** I am not an audio guy, never have been, never will be, but I do like to listen to music and I love my F6b.

Got the J&M speakers in on Monday,read the thread on the JBL's and ordered them, they came in yesterday, just an observation from a booger:icon_wink: eating moron, not related to presidential candidate Cruz, from Wi, the JBL's at half the price w/all you get in the box, including directions, are a hell of a deal in comparison to what came in the J&M box! Now if they sound as good if not better...

Wait until you hear the difference. I'd put the JM in first just for grins. Just wire them up then plug in the JBL. My JM are going to classifieds.

[blueverclear]

so apparently, the JBL Audio GTO Series 638 speakers are now discontinued and not available even though jbl.........

http://www.jbl.com/car-speakers/GTO638.html?cgid=car-speakers#start=1

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17735_JBL-GTO638.html


So the guy from sonic electronics highly recommended the JBL GX602 speakers as a replacement which he said will have more highs and close to the same mids/lows. I actually heard them in best buy over the x-mas holidays and they sounded great!

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_95461_JBL-GX602.html

They were about $13 more but they guy waived the extra cost because they canceled my original order, so we will see!

Grant

[choptop]

Wait until you hear the difference. I'd put the JM in first just for grins. Just wire them up then plug in the JBL. My JM are going to classifieds.

Will keep the J&M's unless someone on the forum wants them.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Amazon.com has them at $54.00 shipped and an extended 2 year warranty is $4.99.

J

[blueverclear]

Amazon.com has them at $54.00 shipped and an extended warranty is $4.99.

J

Yea I did see that. Currently they only have 5 left in stock. Thats probably the last 5 they will get. Thought I would try out the newer model, very similar specs just a 2 way vs a 3 way. Sounded great in the store, hope they sound just as good on the bike! lol

[stepbill]

Just got back from an 80 mile ride and all I can say is that the speakers really perform! They out perform the stock speakers - there is no comparison. Even though it is a tight squeeze and by tight I mean really tight, they are well worth it! If your on the fence about buying them and as I've read, there no longer making them, I would buy a pair now. Just my opinion and I'm sticking to it :yes: :clap2:.

Thanks Dirt, you did great!!!!

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Great,

For me, that's what this thing is about - sharing good stuff.

J

[MisterB]

Per my post above:
I doubt you can tell any difference whether you have the stock tweeters plugged in or not.

The advantage of not plugging them in is not having to disconnect them when you remove the shelter.

For sh!ts & grins, when you have your speakers out during the replacement process, plug in at least one tweeter (no speaker), turn on your radio and "see" what you hear. I'd like to know if you have the same observations that I did (almost nothing).

Valk, I don't know what frequencies that capacitor will pass but since it's a fairly small tweeter they're probably pretty high. Some of us lose the ability to hear high frequencies as we get older, I have and they are truly missed. The sizzle of a cymbal, the ability to hear everything that's going on around you, I just recently realized that it's just not there anymore. That may not be the case with you, if you were listening to FM it only reaches to 15kHz.
When I switch mine I'll have my kids come out and see what they hear using the flash drive as a source.

Regardless, since these have a dedicated midrange that will probably help overcome not only high frequency loss but the wind and traffic noise.
Thanks to you brave souls for your dedication to eking out a better sound from the stock stereo!

[Slammd]

Just ordered a set from Amazon and looking forward to hearing how they perform. Has anyone considered or attempted to install some polyfill behind the speakers? My understanding from reading other motorcycle forums on the subject of audio improvement is that this trick fools the speaker into thinking its in a larger enclosure thus producing improved bass. If there is enough room behind the speakers when I perform the installation I think I'm going to give it a try.

[98valk]

I took off the meter panel and speakers during my lunch break and was curious so I hooked up just the tweeters and you are right, they plan suck. Can not really hear anything at full volume and what you do hear is distorted.

Thanks. I appreciate you taking the time and confirming what I heard.

I don't think that they are worth the effort it takes to reconnect them. :icon_lol:

[TailGunner]

This is my story. It began on a dark and stormy night....

Was able to install the speakers today and they sound really good. They are just as good if not better than the Polk DB651's. That's just my opinion and they can definitely vary. As said before, you have to install them upside down so that it can fit in the hole and even then it is an extremely tight fit. Once I was able to get the speaker almost in, I had to use a flat head screw driver and hammer to move the speaker and align it with the holes. It will fit, just be patient and take your time. The speaker does push against the clear plastic cover right next to it and it might help if you can pre-bend or even slightly cut the outer metal ring some. I have posted a pic of each speaker to show how tight it is.

1940719408

Hope this helps and enjoy!

Thanks for the tips, we ran into the same problems, we also had to drill out the mounting holes and I still can't get the lower right side of the panel assy. to sit flat. Tried grinding a few spots but didn't help much.

[willtill]

Just got my JBL's delivered via Amazon (very cool they deliver on a SUNDAY). But am going to install my Vstream shield today. Am anxious to feel it's performance at speed. :yes:

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Just ordered a set from Amazon and looking forward to hearing how they perform. Has anyone considered or attempted to install some polyfill behind the speakers? My understanding from reading other motorcycle forums on the subject of audio improvement is that this trick fools the speaker into thinking its in a larger enclosure thus producing improved bass. If there is enough room behind the speakers when I perform the installation I think I'm going to give it a try.

I placed speaker batting or poly fill behind mine quite a while back, but couldn't honestly say it changed much, judging by ear. Didn't hurt, though.

J3861

[Hornblower]

Got the JBL's installed today to replace the older version J&M's. Thought you might like to see a speaker comparison of front and back between the two speakers. First, here are the two speakers viewed from the back:

19447

Next, the two speakers viewed from the front:

19448

Finally, rather than monkey around with a overly tight fit, I went ahead and removed short sections of the metal edges as shown here (sorry for the blurred pic):

19449

As you can see, I removed two small areas which resulted in an easy fit. The audio quality is much improved over the older J&M speakers so I'm very satisfied with the upgrade.

[choptop]

Valk, I don't know what frequencies that capacitor will pass but since it's a fairly small tweeter they're probably pretty high. Some of us lose the ability to hear high frequencies as we get older, I have and they are truly missed. The sizzle of a cymbal, the ability to hear everything that's going on around you, I just recently realized that it's just not there anymore. That may not be the case with you, if you were listening to FM it only reaches to 15kHz.
When I switch mine I'll have my kids come out and see what they hear using the flash drive as a source.

Regardless, since these have a dedicated midrange that will probably help overcome not only high frequency loss but the wind and traffic noise.
Thanks to you brave souls for your dedication to eking out a better sound from the stock stereo!
I have a lot of fun w/the frequency generator on my phone when I use it when I'm around a bunch of young kids. lol

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Good

[willtill]

Finally, rather than monkey around with a overly tight fit, I went ahead and removed short sections of the metal edges as shown here (sorry for the blurred pic):

19449

As you can see, I removed two small areas which resulted in an easy fit. The audio quality is much improved over the older J&M speakers so I'm very satisfied with the upgrade.

What did you use to remove metal in those areas? A dremel cut-off wheel?

That is what I am thinking of doing. Or maybe very careful; judicious use of a bench grinding wheel... I don't want to heat the metal up though from the grinding... I guess little; short measured runs at it will keep the heat down.

[Hornblower]

What did you use to remove metal in those areas? A dremel cut-off wheel?

That is what I am thinking of doing. Or maybe very careful; judicious use of a bench grinding wheel... I don't want to heat the metal up though from the grinding... I guess little; short measured runs at it will keep the heat down.

Yep, dremel tool with abrasive cut-off wheel. The metal is fairly thin and easy to cut. It only takes a few minutes but be careful not to cut too deep so as to penetrate the edge of the speaker cone.

[willtill]

Yep, dremel tool with abrasive cut-off wheel. The metal is fairly thin and easy to cut. It only takes a few minutes but be careful not to cut too deep so as to penetrate the edge of the speaker cone.

Cool :yes: Thanks!

[edgeman55]

Well after reading all the reviews here I just ordered a pair from Amazon.Figure for 54 bucks to my door worth a try.I have the old model J&M's and have been happy with them will put my thoughts here how I feel about the JBL's after I get them in.

[stepbill]

What did you use to remove metal in those areas? A dremel cut-off wheel?

That is what I am thinking of doing. Or maybe very careful; judicious use of a bench grinding wheel... I don't want to heat the metal up though from the grinding... I guess little; short measured runs at it will keep the heat down.

Me being retired Air Force, I just tore it with my fingers :clap2:.

[willtill]

Me being retired Air Force, I just tore it with my fingers :clap2:.

Actually, being retired from the Army; I was going to bite it off :icon_mrgreen:

[choptop]

Actually, being retired from the Army; I was going to bite it off :icon_mrgreen:

Being newly retired and not sure what to do w/myself I will probably look at it for a couple of days, then think on it a couple of days then...:icon_lol:

[stepbill]

Being newly retired and not sure what to do w/myself I will probably look at it for a couple of days, then think on it a couple of days then...:icon_lol:

:yes:

[Greg O]

From all the positive reviews on this thread on the JBL GTO 638 speakers, I pulled the trigger. I purchased from Amazon for $54.95 plus shipping, a total of about $64.00. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.

[ths61]

The GTO638's arrived @ an hour ago.

The GTO638's are marked as 2 Ohm speakers, but measure @ 2.8 Ohms according to Mr. Fluke.

The OEM woofers are marked as 3.8 Ohms, but measure @ 3.3 Ohms according to Mr. Fluke.

One other minor observation. The Tweeter/Midrange stalk is fixed and you have to mount them upside down. Being such, you can not balance the treble with both tweeters either on the inside or the outside.

[stepbill]

The GTO638's arrived @ an hour ago.

The GTO638's are marked as 2 Ohm speakers, but measure @ 2.8 Ohms according to Mr. Fluke.

The OEM woofers are marked as 3.8 Ohms, but measure @ 3.3 Ohms according to Mr. Fluke.

Not sure what your saying as I don't really understand ohms but I do know that they sound a hell of a lot better than stock.

[ths61]

Not sure what your saying as I don't really understand ohms but I do know that they sound a hell of a lot better than stock.

The lower the Ohm rating in the speakers, the more power they source from the amp. This results in more volume if the amp is capable/stable for the increased demand on it. If the amp is not stable at that load, it is not good for the amp.

A "perfect" amp will double its power output as the resistance halves until it hits its stability limits. (Example: 350wpc/8 Ohms, 700wpc/4 Ohms, 1,400 watts/2 Ohms).

19467

19468

[willtill]

The lower the Ohm rating in the speakers, the more power they source from the amp. This results in more volume if the amp is capable/stable for the increased demand on it. If the amp is not stable at that load, it is not good for the amp.

A "perfect" amp will double its power output as the resistance halves until it hits its stability limits. (Example: 350wpc/8 Ohms, 700wpc/4 Ohms, 1,400 watts/2 Ohms).

19467

19468

That's a hell of a visual :icon_lol:

[Greg O]

What part of the speaker needs to be bent, I don't want to cut on the speaker.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

9: and 3 ocklock approximately.
Look closely at my pictures on the first page of this thread.

There is the instrument glass and metal supports on the outside.

I bent the baskets with a rubber mallet and did no trimming.
Start the top in first, add sctews, then take a flat screw driver and hammer and tap the bottom of the speaker in flush.

Keep the holes lined up as you do this.
The bottom of the speaker has to be flush for the shelter to snap back on correctly.

Some are cutting the basket. Go back a few pages in this thread to see what has been cut. Don't cut into the rubber.

J

[Hornblower]

9: and 3 ocklock approximately.
Look closely at my pictures on the first page of this thread.

There is the instrument glass and metal supports on the outside.

Some are cutting the basket. Go back a few pages in this thread to see what has been cut. Don't cut into the rubber.

J

As Dirtstiff mentions, the areas that need to be relieved are approx. 9 & 3 O'clock but as you see in my post #97, it's slightly higher than that. To each his own but I felt cutting was easier than bending. Others may disagree. Not wanting to force fit against the plastic, I found it necessary to remove quite a bit of material so again, bending probably wasn't going to be adequate for me. Also, if you ever want to remove your meter panel, you will probably realize it will also mean unbolting the speakers. Even with the cuts, the fit is that close.

[waynerock66]

Yet one more item that I've ordered after surfing around on this forum. "ccsmiley". :icon_biggrin:

[53driver]

Yet one more item that I've ordered after surfing around on this forum. "ccsmiley". :icon_biggrin:

Yup. I fell victim to the LED headlamps/fog lamps/turn signals/tail lights......
(Cha-Ching$$$)

[oiler]

So which speakers sound better...the JBL's or the new version of the J&M's? I read this entire thread and I don't know if the comparisons made are referring to the old J&M's or the new J&M's??

[choptop]

So which speakers sound better...the JBL's or the new version of the J&M's? I read this entire thread and I don't know if the comparisons made are referring to the old J&M's or the new J&M's??
Although I have yet to install either of my (2) new sets of speakers, I do believe the consensus is that the new JBL's, sound better than the new 2016 series J&M's , which sound better than the 2015 J&M's, which sounded better than stock."whatdidImiss"

[oiler]

Although I have yet to install either of my (2) new sets of speakers, I do believe the consensus is that the new JBL's, sound better than the new 2016 series J&M's , which sound better than the 2015 J&M's, which sounded better than stock."whatdidImiss"

Not looking for guesses...is there anyone that has actually heard both the JBL's and the NEW version of the J&M's on a F6B? If the sound quality is the same between the two, I would rather pay the extra $75 and get the J&M's and not have to worry about fitment, water or whether or not they will fry your amp.

[choptop]

Not looking for guesses...is there anyone that has actually heard both the JBL's and the NEW version of the J&M's on a F6B? If the sound quality is the same between the two, I would rather pay the extra $75 and get the J&M's and not have to worry about fitment, water or whether or not they will fry your amp.

Although I have not heard the difference, and I would not want to be the one that you would base your purchase upon, The general agreement, by those that seem to have an ear for that kind of thing, is pretty much what I stated above. Anyone, anyone.

[edgeman55]

Not looking for guesses...is there anyone that has actually heard both the JBL's and the NEW version of the J&M's on a F6B? If the sound quality is the same between the two, I would rather pay the extra $75 and get the J&M's and not have to worry about fitment, water or whether or not they will fry your amp.

I believe F6 pilot had the newer J&M's in his and found the JBL's far surpassed the sound they put out.Mine will be here Friday and I will install them replacing the older J&M's that have been in my bike for over a year.While I felt the J&M's I have were better then the stock speakers I felt for 54 bucks these were worth a try and I have not heard a bad comment on the sound of these yet..As far as fryin the amp I believe it was shown in a previous post that a JBL rep said these speakers will perform on any amp from 2-4 ohm rating without a problem.But enough of us are going to run these that time will tell if one of us frys a amp.Get the J&M's if it will help you not worry about your amp.

[oiler]

Although I have not heard the difference, and I would not want to be the one that you would base your purchase upon, The general agreement, by those that seem to have an ear for that kind of thing, is pretty much what I stated above. Anyone, anyone.

choptop thanks for your input but the comparison between the two is really still unknown. All I have been hearing is that the JBL's sound better than stock or they sound better than the old version of the J&M's or they heard them in a car or they sounded great in a store or they sound great with an aftermarket amp. Is there anyone that has heard the JBL's and the NEW version of the J&M's both in a F6 with the stock amp?

[choptop]

I plan on installing and trying both out hopefully this weekend. Will give my tone def opinion after that.:crackup:

[oiler]

I plan on installing and trying both out hopefully this weekend. Will give my tone def opinion after that.:crackup:

Thanks choptop...will be watching for you results and I am sure you will be able to tell which sound better.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

A solution for those of you who wore out the oem rubber backed speaker nuts or simply pushed them off like I did during my many surgeries.

Metal fender clip nuts in combination with drywall anchors work perfectly.

Both are available at Ace.

19507

[F6Pilot]

I believe F6 pilot had the newer J&M's in his and found the JBL's far surpassed the sound they put out.

I have the older J&M speakers.

[Chas]

Looking forward to hearing them in person :icon_cool:

With my stock set up, Chuck's J&M set up and now your JBL set up we should be able to do a nice comparison :yes:

I'll bring the db meter, sound quality will be subjective but we could do a blind sound test

Sounds like a plan Will, Dirtstiff. ROCK ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[choptop]

A solution for those of you who wore out the oem rubber backed speaker nuts or simply pushed them off like I did during my many surgeries.

Metal fender clip nuts in combination with drywall anchors work perfectly.

Both are available at Ace.

19507

:yes:

[Tedubya]

Just ordered a pair.

Ordered the foam baffles also. I wonder will fit or make any difference in the fairing.

[DarkKnt]

I have the new speakers, but have not started the replacement yet. Can somebody who has just gone from stock to the 638's tell me what type of connector is required? Are they just "plug and play" or do you have to modify either the harness or new speaker connection? I just want to have everything I need before I get started... I'm definitely not good with "wiring" issues. Last time I installed an aftermarket cd player in a little Honda, the subsequent owner (a close friend) experienced an electrical fire:icon_frown:

[ths61]

Just ordered a pair.

Ordered the foam baffles also. I wonder will fit or make any difference in the fairing.

Not much room in the speaker recession for foam baffles.


... Can somebody who has just gone from stock to the 638's tell me what type of connector is required? Are they just "plug and play" or do you have to modify either the harness or new speaker connection? I just want to have everything I need before I get started......

The speaker holes line up. The connectors fit. Just have to address the width @ 9 and 3 (cut or bend).

Remember to install speakers upside down (tweeter on left, midrange on the right). They won't fit otherwise.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I cut these to fit and have polyfill behind them.
19538
19539
19540
19541

And mount with Voice coils on top. See my picture orientation
Good luck

[DarkKnt]

Looks like I'm good to go then..

[Greg O]

Is the speaker grills attached to the top cover. What Tupperware do I have to remove to get to the speakers. Also how does the Tupperware come off and what tools are required to get it off.

[ths61]

Is the speaker grills attached to the top cover. What Tupperware do I have to remove to get to the speakers. Also how does the Tupperware come off and what tools are required to get it off.

The speaker grills are attached to the top cover.
The top cover pulls off.
There are 3 wire harnesses attached to the top cover (2 tweeter and one button (trip/temp/etc.) console).
Tweeter harness come off by squeezing the connectors and pulling them out.
A small straight slot screw driver helps disconnect the button console harness inserted from the left side. Harness pulls off to the right.
A Phillips screwdriver is required to replace the speakers.

HTH


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga3Aa2_Dlvs


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AgNA6j6zZQ

[53driver]

Is the speaker grills attached to the top cover. What Tupperware do I have to remove to get to the speakers. Also how does the Tupperware come off and what tools are required to get it off.

There is a YouTube video that's about 2 min long that shows that procedure....

[Greg O]

Thanks Guys

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Curious to hear Choptop's comparison.
I think we all agree JBL out perform oem (which aren't bad, by the way).

J

[DarkKnt]

...nobody mentions how to disconnect the electrical plug on the dash. Am I the only fu@#ing idiot that doesn't know how it comes apart? I am about ready to just pull like hell and hope for the best...
Seriously, this is pissing me off.

[Hornblower]

...nobody mentions how to disconnect the electrical plug on the dash. Am I the only fu@#ing idiot that doesn't know how it comes apart? I am about ready to just pull like hell and hope for the best...
Seriously, this is pissing me off.

That multi-pin connector has a latch. Two ways to release it...small flat blade screwdriver going in from the left side OR needle nose pliers going in from the right side. My preference is the needle nose. If you go that route, simply pinch on the middle of the connector while pulling slightly on the wires. The connector should release easily.

[DarkKnt]

Yes you did mention it. And it worked. Jeez!

[DarkKnt]

Thanks Ken. In my frustration I scratched the friggin speaker grills on the clutch handle assembly. Thought I'd mention it so nobody else did the same.

[stevenolts]

It is the weekend / has anyone done the JBL speaker install yet that had the new version of the J&Ms?

I connected the left speaker and it sounded good but it was not installed just laying there. I only had a few minutes and was not ready to start the speaker mod in a hurry.
But my 30 sec review is they may be better but I need to get both in installed and the dash put back together to really compare. The left JBL did not jump out as being better than the right J&M. I don't think this was a good comparison the music could have been different on the left and right channels.


If they are not a lot better then the JBLs are going in my car which has worn out speakers in the front. I tried to force Alpine 6x9s ovals in the front doors of my Honda Accord a few years ago (they should have been 6.5) I got them to fit OK with a spacer but not before they dragged against the window and scraped the tint all to hell. I bought an extra set of the JBLs for the Accord. Live and learn Don't be in a hurry to hear your music upgrade!!! Take your time and do it right.

I only had a few minutes / I did not want get caught putting more money in the bike after I just put the J&ms in last week.

Steve

[ths61]

Yes you did mention it. And it worked. Jeez!

HTH == Hope This Helps :icon_wink:

And yes, it is a PITA until you know how it works.

[Jimmytee]

That multi-pin connector has a latch. Two ways to release it...small flat blade screwdriver going in from the left side OR needle nose pliers going in from the right side. My preference is the needle nose. If you go that route, simply pinch on the middle of the connector while pulling slightly on the wires. The connector should release easily.

To be honest, after the first few times removing that thing, I purposely broke the latch thing. The plug fits snuggly enough,I've not had a problem.

[stevenolts]

All you need is to just push your finger nail into it and pull a little (you are talking about the tweeters right). I have had it off several times.
Cutting or bending the speaker is what has me worried.
Steve

[stevenolts]

I have tons of tools but not a spinning dremil. I have the modulation thing to cut with / I don't think that will work. I have a zip tool but that thing is totally out of control.
Steve

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

It is the weekend / has anyone done the JBL speaker install yet that had the new version of the J&Ms?

I connected the left speaker and it sounded good but it was not installed just laying there. I only had a few minutes and was not ready to start the speaker mod in a hurry.
But my 30 sec review is they may be better but I need to get both in installed and the dash put back together to really compare. The left JBL did not jump out as being better than the right J&M. I don't think this was a good comparison the music could have been different on the left and right channels.


If they are not a lot better then the JBLs are going in my car which has worn out speakers in the front. I tried to force Alpine 6x9s ovals in the front doors of my Honda Accord a few years ago (they should have been 6.5) I got them to fit OK with a spacer but not before they dragged against the window and scraped the tint all to hell. I bought an extra set of the JBLs for the Accord. Live and learn Don't be in a hurry to hear your music upgrade!!! Take your time and do it right.

I only had a few minutes / I did not want get caught putting more money in the bike after I just put the J&ms in last week.

Steve

DO NOT MIX THE TWO SPEAKERS TOGETHER. THE VOICE COILS ARE DIFFERENT. KEEP THE 2 SAME MAKES OF SPEAKERS TOGETHER..

[stevenolts]

It was just a quick test. I will not mix / once I mod them I will put them both in and let you know how they compare to the new version of the J&M.

I work 12 hours tomorrow and Monday I am leaving out of town for a week.

Steve

[Hornblower]

I have tons of tools but not a spinning dremil. I have the modulation thing to cut with / I don't think that will work. I have a zip tool but that thing is totally out of control.
Steve

Yeah, Steve, I have a RotoZip as well and that might be overkill for this small job. The oscillating tool might work depending on whether you have the right metal-cutting blade. Really, the Dremel with the abrasive cut-off blade is perfect for this application. Maybe this will be the excuse you've been needing to justify buying one :icon_rolleyes:.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Good, sharp, long nosed sheet metal cutting pliers are good too. Saves taping up the whole speaker to keep metal shavings out of the magnet, tweeter and mid.

Jim

[stepbill]

Good, sharp, long nosed sheet metal cutting pliers are good too. Saves taping up the whole speaker to keep metal shavings out of the magnet, tweeter and mid.

Jim

And how prey tell do you know about those metal shavings going straight to the magnet? I know I learned the hard way when I installed the Polk DB's :icon_redface::icon_doh: .

[DarkKnt]

After much farting around trying to figure out how to grind or hacksaw the frame, I simply used pliers to bend the lip flat and used a set of tin snips to trim off the material. Worked great and took all of 10 min each speaker. I'm ready to put the dash back on; can any body tell me what the little button in the center of the tweeter/mid range speakers does? I can't tell any difference with them pushed in or out... And as for the sound in general, well hard to tell listening to crappy radio in the garage..

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Get a few clean, high Meg per second, songs recorded on a jump drive to evaluate your new sound. Radio, Sirius radio will not tell you anything about a speaker unless you have a super strong stereo fm signal.

The small tweeter button either turns down the tweeter - 3db in sound or leaves it full range.
I left them out and adjusted the bass and treble to my liking.
With clean recorded music, you can tell the difference with it out rather than pushed in for more bass.

J

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

And how prey tell do you know about those metal shavings going straight to the magnet? I know I learned the hard way when I installed the Polk DB's :icon_redface::icon_doh: .

I've sacrificed more money and time cutting speakers down in my time for it almost to be an obsession.

That's why I prefer bending or cutting with tin snips.
J

[SimonTemplar]

Perhaps I missed it somewhere along the way in all of this, but....

Do we have any official information what the actual rated output impedance is of the Honda amp? Or at least a rated operating impedance range? I'd hate to do this only to end up frying the amp because of a mismatch.

One of the reasons I've not even considered the J&M's. Their little video about how great their speakers are doesn't use a pink or white noise signal which might provide real information....just twangy country music, and not even the same sample of twangy country music. Makes me wonder what they are attempting to not say.



....sT

[Hornblower]

I've sacrificed more money and time cutting speakers down in my time for it almost to be an obsession.

That's why I prefer bending or cutting with tin snips.
J

I like your idea of using tin snips. Might be a little harder than cutting with an abrasive disk but not having to deal with the metal chips is attractive. After cutting mine with a disc, I was able to blow off most of the chips with compressed air but I'll definitely consider the snips next time.

[willtill]

I like your idea of using tin snips. Might be a little harder than cutting with an abrasive disk but not having to deal with the metal chips is attractive. After cutting mine with a disc, I was able to blow off most of the chips with compressed air but I'll definitely consider the snips next time.

Just got my JBL's installed. They definitely sound BETTER than stock. :icon_cool:

I contemplated the tin snips for trimming the areas required, and started to use them. Did not like the way that the metal was deforming though with the initial cuts. So I wrapped up the speakers in tin foil, exposed the areas that I pre-marked for cutting, and dremeled the areas off.

Worked well. Minimal metal shavings to worry about adhering to the speakers. Am glad that somebody mentioned the shavings possibly being an issue from the dremel usage This is why this board is so helpful.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Great to hear it all went well during the install and that you are satisfied with the outcome.

Jim

[choptop]

Did a comparison today between the New J&M and the JBL, to my ear I liked the JBL and that is what will stay in the 6 and the J&M's will go on the shelf .

[ths61]

Did a comparison today between the New J&M and the JBL, to my ear I liked the JBL and that is what will stay in the 6 and the J&M's will go on the shelf .

Thanks for the comparison report. Can you quantify your preferences (bass, midrange, tweeter, clarity, volume, etc.) ?

[choptop]

To be honest with you, and I would like to be honest with you, no I can't. Although I love to listen to music I listen to so much music over the years on shty speakers never messed with controls because it made no difference. I always have my son's set the bass and treble and all of that crap because he's young and has a good ear for it. The JBls were better to me than the new J&M's and much better than stock so I just said hell yeah these are staying in there I like the sound. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

[willtill]

So where is the best setting for treble and bass?

I normally leave my treble at zero and my bass at like +2 or +3

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

So where is the best setting for treble and bass?

I normally leave my treble at zero and my bass at like +2 or +3

+2 on Bass and -1 on the Treble sounds right to my ears.

Good on you Chop. If you like it then they sound just right.

[stepbill]

I have my base set to max and the treble is set to 5 from the max.

[choptop]

Obviously not knowing a lot about speakers other than the fact that I bought more in the last 2 weeks than in my whole life, I have to say those stock speakers have to be WAY on the low end of speakers. The J&Ms were better but the JBL's appeared to be a good quality speaker, and sounded pretty good for the money, not to speak of the enjoyment they will bring.

[willtill]

I have my base set to max and the treble is set to 5 from the max.

You may end up wearing those speakers out prematurely; with that much bass and exaggerated moment of the diaphragm.... :shock:

[faz]

just ordered some myself

[Jimmytee]

I have my bass at -1 my mid at 0 and my treble at zero :icon_wink:
I've got my sub at +8

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

:cheers:

[Greg O]

How much time is everyone spending on modifying and installing the JBL's. I'm thinking about doing it tomorrow after work

[TailGunner]

How much time is everyone spending on modifying and installing the JBL's. I'm thinking about doing it tomorrow after work
With all the tips you could do it in a half hour but take your time. No more than two hours

[willtill]

With all the tips you could do it in a half hour but take your time. No more than two hours

That is about right. Prepping and cutting off the area's of the outer JBL speaker area's with a Dremel took the most time. Took me about 90 minutes.

[stepbill]

You may end up wearing those speakers out prematurely; with that much bass and exaggerated moment of the diaphragm.... :shock:

That's what my wife told me about her diaphragm and it's still going strong :shhh: .

[edgeman55]

Just finished installing my JBL's and I can confirm what others have said here these really sound better then my first gen J&M's.Much better bass and treble with a overall fuller sound.I lowered the bass from +2 to 0 and treble from +3 to +1.Great bang for the buck.I dremeled mine out and total time to install was about a hr or so.:yes:

[willtill]

That's what my wife told me about her diaphragm and it's still going strong :shhh: .

:icon_mrgreen: You go big boy ! :icon_lol:

:icon_wink:

[blueverclear]

So i installed my 6.5" JBL GX602 speakers in the bike today and wow what a difference. It really shines at higher volume levels, so much clearer than before with a very clean and precise sound. You hear more of the music than you did with the stock speakers with much better bass trebble and midrange.

Right now i have it set up with the trebble on 4 and the bass on -1 which sounds great. Here is a pic of the new speakers compared to the stock one.

19678

19679

I do plan on adding 2 more of these speakers to my tour pak as soon as i find some 6.5" speaker pods that will work with my chopped pak. Should sound great!

Grant

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Awesome

[mrjava]

Im posting some pics to provide answers that I had, and maybe others.
The lower reading is from the JBL speaker.

1974919750197511975219753

[willtill]

Im posting some pics to provide answers that I had, and maybe others.
The lower reading is from the JBL speaker.

19753

2.5 ohms? Hmmm.... closer to the OEM 3.0 than the spec'ed JBL 2.0 :yes:

But is "close" only applicable to horseshoes and hand grenades?

[stevenolts]

Blueverclear,

Let me know when you get the tour pack pods and how that works out.
Are you planning on using some Harley pods? So they just bolt onto the tour pack?


I have heard that there is a speaker harness for rear speakers under the seat. Are they the same power as the front channel?
Has anyone used this rear speaker harness yet? how does it sound? Are they as loud as the front?
Steve

[JetBlackWing]

https://youtu.be/qrbzfe8phic

Haha I think I could see the speaker grills just a bouncing, sound good. If I had bought the Polk DXI6.5, Id try these.

[blueverclear]

Blueverclear,

Let me know when you get the tour pack pods and how that works out.
Are you planning on using some Harley pods? So they just bolt onto the tour pack?


I have heard that there is a speaker harness for rear speakers under the seat. Are they the same power as the front channel?
Has anyone used this rear speaker harness yet? how does it sound? Are they as loud as the front?
Steve

Hey steve,

Anxiously waiting on my speaker pods from June's Upholstery, should be here tomorrow :icon_biggrin:. I have a chopped pak and June's is pretty much the only ones making them for the chopped pak. Price was reasonable too @ $160 shipped to my door.

Im counting on the fact that the rear channel is going to sound like the front channel from the oem amp which is not bad at all. I like my music LOUD when im rolling so I usually have the volume between 16 - 18 around town and 22 - 24 on the interstate @ 85 mph or so. I think that the added speakers in the tour pak will add some volume and debt to the system, making it a fuller sound and allowing me to keep the radio volume alot lower with will probably add some life back into the factory amp. If not satisfactory, I will just have an excuse to add an amp and be done lol I sure would like to add some bass though............. thought about adding a removable speaker in the tour pak. Any suggestions???

Grant

[Jimmytee]

Hey steve,

Anxiously waiting on my speaker pods from June's Upholstery, should be here tomorrow :icon_biggrin:. I have a chopped pak and June's is pretty much the only ones making them for the chopped pak. Price was reasonable too @ $160 shipped to my door.

Im counting on the fact that the rear channel is going to sound like the front channel from the oem amp which is not bad at all. I like my music LOUD when im rolling so I usually have the volume between 16 - 18 around town and 22 - 24 on the interstate @ 85 mph or so. I think that the added speakers in the tour pak will add some volume and debt to the system, making it a fuller sound and allowing me to keep the radio volume alot lower with will probably add some life back into the factory amp. If not satisfactory, I will just have an excuse to add an amp and be done lol I sure would like to add some bass though............. thought about adding a removable speaker in the tour pak. Any suggestions???

Grant

The micro sub series from JL Audio . I have the 6.5" version in my left saddlebag. Packs a lot of punch . Unbelievable amount of bass out that little guy. I am pushing 200 watts to it. Of course, JL Audio also sells these with a built in amp as well. Of course if you could fit a bigger one, go with the 8 or 10" version. You will also have to vent your tour pack to allow the sound to move.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44218_JL-Audio-MicroSub-CP106LG-W3v3.html

[stevenolts]

I installed the JBL speakers today. I used the tin snips and it was easy. I snipped on each side of the area to be removed / used needle nose pliers too bend back / snipped across / snipped a little deeper / bent back /snipped off / installed the speakers. Just as plug and play as the J&Ms well almost. Don't be intimidated this was a lot easier than I thought it would be.

As far as the comparison between the new J&Ms, JBLs, and stock speakers. I only rode a short distance and barley got up to 60PH where the speakers kick in better. I have the stock amplifier that came with the bike.

Stock = really not that bad

New J&Ms = much better than stock / clearer at high volume

JBLs = much better than stock / clearer than both the J&Ms and stock at higher volume.

Bottom line advice:
If you have stock buy the JBLs
If you already have the J&Ms I am not yet sure that the JBLs are that much of an upgrade. (I still need to do more testing)
Steve

[Chas]

I would have to think that Dirtstiff's speakers will be better than my new set. But just to clarify on my set, they are the upgraded J&M set, not the stock set they sell. I did notice a great difference and definitely want to hear Dirtstiff's. Like Will said, we will put a Db meter on them and also listen to any distortion issues. Reason I am okay with mine, is I am partially deaf in one ear, so I just need clarity. Quality, to some degree is wasted on the bad ear. But I know Dirtstiff does class act upgrades to his ride, I can't wait to hear them.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I would have to think that Dirtstiff's speakers will be better than my new set. But just to clarify on my set, they are the upgraded J&M set, not the stock set they sell. I did notice a great difference and definitely want to hear Dirtstiff's. Like Will said, we will put a Db meter on them and also listen to any distortion issues. Reason I am okay with mine, is I am partially deaf in one ear, so I just need clarity. Quality, to some degree is wasted on the bad ear. But I know Dirtstiff does class act upgrades to his ride, I can't wait to hear them.


Your bringing a knife to a gunfight my friend.:icon_biggrin: J/K
Just trying to share an effective and affordable option.

If your happy, that's all that matters anyway.

[Greg O]

Got my bike out of hibernation today. I took it for a 10 mile ride, added sea foam and top off the tank with fuel. I came home because rain was coming in and it got colder. So I decided to put in the JBL'S if it wasn't for losing a nut sert I would have had them in an hour or less. I used straight and right handed tin snipes, it was so simple this way and no grinding dust. Now for my review. I only listened to the radio. I live 35 miles south of Chicago so my signal on all radio stations are great. These speaker do not seem as loud on lower volume 15 to 20. At under 50 MPH 15 to 20 is not loud enough. Once I hit 20 on the volume these speakers come alive. At 20 these speakers have no detectable distortion . They are not very responsive at the lower volumes. The stock speakers were louder at lower volume but became distorted after 20. So my review is buy them but you have run them at a higher volume than what your use to. You will not have distortion from these speakers at higher volume like you did with the stock ones.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

If I could make a couple suggestions.

Try listening with music down loaded to a thumb drive (at the highest megabit per second download rate available) and turn on your auto volume control (AVC) to medium.

In my opinion, most speakers sound mediocre listening to fm and Sirius radio.

If you really want to bring them to life, add an amp.

Jim

[blueverclear]

Got my bike out of hibernation today. I took it for a 10 mile ride, added sea foam and top off the tank with fuel. I came home because rain was coming in and it got colder. So I decided to put in the JBL'S if it wasn't for losing a nut sert I would have had them in an hour or less. I used straight and right handed tin snipes, it was so simple this way and no grinding dust. Now for my review. I only listened to the radio. I live 35 miles south of Chicago so my signal on all radio stations are great. These speaker do not seem as loud on lower volume 15 to 20. At under 50 MPH 15 to 20 is not loud enough. Once I hit 20 on the volume these speakers come alive. At 20 these speakers have no detectable distortion . They are not very responsive at the lower volumes. The stock speakers were louder at lower volume but became distorted after 20. So my review is buy them but you have run them at a higher volume than what your use to. You will not have distortion from these speakers at higher volume like you did with the stock ones.

I noticed some similar things about the jbl gx602 speakers. The volume is pretty even for me up to about volume 20 just much clearer. above 20 its no comparison at all. Much louder and clearer for sure. I think the difference is under 20 you dont have enough rms wattage to make the jobs scream but once the wattage starts kicking in they come alive.

Grant

[Greg O]

Question, after doing this speaker mod I left the tweeters in but disconnected. Is everyone else doing this or are they removing them from the front cover pods. I'm thinking about taking them out. I have a digital gear indicator that I'm thinking about installing it in the left tweeter pod.

[willtill]

Question, after doing this speaker mod I left the tweeters in but disconnected. Is everyone else doing this or are they removing them from the front cover pods. I'm thinking about taking them out. I have a digital gear indicator that I'm thinking about installing it in the left tweeter pod.

I left my tweeters disconnected but still in place.

Also had installed my GI Pro indicator here:

http://i59.tinypic.com/33ygwt5.jpg

[Greg O]

I left my tweeters disconnected but still in place.

Also had installed my GI Pro indicator here:

http://i59.tinypic.com/33ygwt5.jpg

I was going to do the same thing but ran out of time. I was going to Dremel out the tweeter hole and fit it in. How much Tupperware do I have to take off to run the wire for the GI Pro.

[willtill]

I was going to do the same thing but ran out of time. I was going to Dremel out the tweeter hole and fit it in. How much Tupperware do I have to take off to run the wire for the GI Pro.

See this below thread (starting at post #45 or so...). It should help ya wit dat :icon_wink:

http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?4975-Gear-indicator-mounted-where-it-should-be-%28IMO%29/page3&highlight=gear+indicator

[soberbiker]

This is what I got when I went to the site...Sorry...just don't know how to insert a clip of the page.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17735_JBL-GTO638.html

[faz]

still available on amazon

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

For those whom have asked -

In car stereo wiring, the large spade connection is the positive + wire connection and the small spade connector is always negative in oem wiring.

Be careful with wiring with a white stripe. Most refer to a white striped wire as positive polarity(Polk Audio for one ), but not all.

Best to start with the correct spade connector size; large for positive and use an Ohm or resistance meter to double check before hooking up to your amp or head unit.

Using an Ohm meter, correct continuity will give you a 0 or near 0 ohm reading, verifying one end of a wire belongs to another.

Jim

[willtill]

Jim (et al),

I think that there is still a final fitment issue with the JBL speakers; even after trimming the two areas on each outer speaker ring; so they can seat into the front dash speaker cutouts.

My plastic front console cover does not completely seat on the bottom when reinstalling it. I believe that it is due to the outer raised metal ring of the JBL speaker, which is also large in circumference as compared to the stock speaker.

From examining it closely, it appears that it induces a small gap on the bottom of both sides of the front plastic console cover.

http://i68.tinypic.com/i4mmgp.jpg

I am thinking that I am going to have to get the Dremel back out :banghead: and take out this raised outer area(s) of the speaker ring; in order to get the front panel to fully seat so there is no gap.

Is anyone else having this issue?

[Hornblower]

Is anyone else having this issue?

Yep, noticed that. The interference is small however so I'm not really concerned about it nor have I taken any steps to modify it. If you figure out the exact cause and remedy, definitely put up a post about it. If it's a quick fix, I may consider it.

[willtill]

Yep, noticed that. The interference is small however so I'm not really concerned about it nor have I taken any steps to modify it. If you figure out the exact cause and remedy, definitely put up a post about it. If it's a quick fix, I may consider it.

Ya... I'm going to see if I can find some chalk and mark the raised area of the speaker ring; so I can see exactly where it is interfering with the inside of the console when I am replacing that. I want it flush and completely seated.

[TailGunner]

I had the same problem because at first I didn't cut anything and just pushed it in. I had a buddy(my arm is in a sling) cut the areas that needed cutting and it went back together great. Maybe you just didn't cut enough? He cut maybe 2 to 2 1/2 inches off each area. It should fit fall right into place if you cut enough

[TailGunner]

Like others here that have lost the nut that holds the speaker in place you can buy the grommet that holds the nut from Honda to fix the problem

[willtill]

I had the same problem because at first I didn't cut anything and just pushed it in. I had a buddy(my arm is in a sling) cut the areas that needed cutting and it went back together great. Maybe you just didn't cut enough? He cut maybe 2 to 2 1/2 inches off each area. It should fit fall right into place if you cut enough

No, I cut off the left and right side areas.... but the bottom portion needs a little trimming too... from what I have deduced so far.


Like others here that have lost the nut that holds the speaker in place you can buy the grommet that holds the nut from Honda to fix the problem

All of my nuts are intact.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I bent the lower left of my left speaker basket at the area the snap was, 1" slightly. The right side snapped on no trouble.
Make sure your speakers are mounted in the orientation I showed in a picture.

Earlier in this thread, I showed fender nuts and wall anchor combination I used after the oem speaker nuts came off.

[ths61]

Like others here that have lost the nut that holds the speaker in place you can buy the grommet that holds the nut from Honda to fix the problem

Put some pollyfill in the baffles and you won't loose any next time. The polyfill saved my butt 2 times already.

Here is a site where you can order them from. Looks like EBay may have some of the parts cheaper.

#23 (Honda part number 90111-kw3-003) looks like the nut before it is scrunched up after the first use.

HTH

19908

19907

http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2013-honda-gold-wing-f6b-gl1800b-audio-unit/o/m155488sch791027

http://cdn1.bikebandit-images.com/schematics/schematics/honda/hon018/hm0713032004.gif

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-90111-KW3-003.html

http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/p/honda/90111-kw3-003/nut-cowl-setting-5mm

http://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/p/honda/90111-kw3-003/nut-cowl-setting-5mm

[willtill]

Yep, noticed that. The interference is small however so I'm not really concerned about it nor have I taken any steps to modify it. If you figure out the exact cause and remedy, definitely put up a post about it. If it's a quick fix, I may consider it.

So I just finished trimming the JBL speaker(s) again.... besides the areas I initially Dremeled out (outlined in GREEN) I now just finished removing the raised lip area (outlined in RED) by bending it down lightly with pliers, and using tin snips to remove it. This was the area of the speaker's outer metal ring that was keeping the main instrument console cover from seating properly:

(Original picture below borrowed)

http://i68.tinypic.com/2i1h30g.jpg

Now the main instrument console cover fits CORRECTLY and without any gaps. :icon_cool: Just how I like it. :yes:

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

So I just finished trimming the JBL speaker(s) again.... besides the areas I initially Dremeled out (outlined in GREEN) I now just finished removing the raised lip area (outlined in RED) by bending it down lightly with pliers, and using tin snips to remove it. This was the area of the speaker's outer metal ring that was keeping the main instrument console cover from seating properly:

(Original picture below borrowed)

http://i68.tinypic.com/2i1h30g.jpg

Now the main instrument console cover fits CORRECTLY and without any gaps. :icon_cool: Just how I like it. :yes:



Glad you got yours to fit.


J

[MisterB]

For anyone who hasn't dug in; metal nibblers are the bomb for this type of modding work.
Here's an amazon link but you can probably get them many other places. http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nickel-Plated-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=pd_sim_469_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41abrHFnFOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1MC7SYYVPGRNMZMB023A

[willtill]

For anyone who hasn't dug in; metal nibblers are the bomb for this type of modding work.
Here's an amazon link but you can probably get them many other places. http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nickel-Plated-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=pd_sim_469_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41abrHFnFOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1MC7SYYVPGRNMZMB023A

That is an interesting tool. I did not know that it existed.

Dremeling these speakers with a cut off wheel certainly can be a little messy; with all of the shavings adhering due to magnetism if you don't wrap the speaker up to prevent such. That is why I opted for the tin snips this second time around... was much cleaner. Though I wish I had one of those nibbler tools now...

[stevenolts]

Blueverclear did you ever get your rear speakers going ?
Steve

[ths61]

Blueverclear did you ever get your rear speakers going ?
Steve

He has to get his bike out of purgatory first. :icon_frown:

[blueverclear]

Blueverclear did you ever get your rear speakers going ?
Steve

My bike is still at the shop....... HONDA OF NEW ORLEANS HAS THE WORST SERVICE DEPARTMENT IN THE COUNTRY............... OMFG :icon_doh:

Ok so here is the story.... I bought the bike used with 3500 miles on it. Still had the factory warranty and i purchased a 2 year extended warranty. After riding about 100 miles I was starting to see a "glaze" of oil on my left boot. No oil in the driveway or where I park the bike every night. It would only do this when its pressurized and running down the road, let it idle for 45 minutes and no drops at all.

So I bring it to the crappy ass stupid ass dealer :071: not too far from my house and they kept the bike almost 2 weeks the first time before I went over there and raised hell about the repair taking so long. They said they couldn't find anything but they think it was coming from the valve cover on the left side. They changed the gasket and finally after almost 3 week I got my bike back.

So naturally the next week when i got a chance i went on about a 200 mile run, wouldn't you know........... they hadn't fixed anything and still doing the same thing :cus::cus: so I call the service manager back and he says "oh yea, no problem just bring it back. And I talked to Honda and they said the racall has never been done so we will do that to and have you in and out in a few days"............ We its been 2.5 weeks ago since i dropped the bike off for the second time and basically they haven't done a damn thing at all. The service manager even lied to me last saturday and told me that they found the problem and it would be ready this wednesday. When i went there yesterday one of the tech admitted me that they in fact had not found the problem, didn't know why the service manager told me that, and the were waiting on the regional tech to come by and help them out.

At this point, enough was enough, and I reported the activity to mother honda who has opened up a case and will be following up with the dealer and myself next week. They will NEVER get my business again.

Grant

[blueverclear]

I also have a soundstream amp that I will be installing on the bike with my new rear speakers which will control both from and rear speakers. Friend of mine bought it and never used it yet so we will see how it goes!!!

http://www.amazon.com/Soundstream-ST4-1000D-Stealth-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00K6ON4EO

[Jimmytee]

My bike is still at the shop....... HONDA OF NEW ORLEANS HAS THE WORST SERVICE DEPARTMENT IN THE COUNTRY............... OMFG :icon_doh:

Ok so here is the story.... I bought the bike used with 3500 miles on it. Still had the factory warranty and i purchased a 2 year extended warranty. After riding about 100 miles I was starting to see a "glaze" of oil on my left boot. No oil in the driveway or where I park the bike every night. It would only do this when its pressurized and running down the road, let it idle for 45 minutes and no drops at all.

So I bring it to the crappy ass stupid ass dealer :071: not too far from my house and they kept the bike almost 2 weeks the first time before I went over there and raised hell about the repair taking so long. They said they couldn't find anything but they think it was coming from the valve cover on the left side. They changed the gasket and finally after almost 3 week I got my bike back.

So naturally the next week when i got a chance i went on about a 200 mile run, wouldn't you know........... they hadn't fixed anything and still doing the same thing :cus::cus: so I call the service manager back and he says "oh yea, no problem just bring it back. And I talked to Honda and they said the racall has never been done so we will do that to and have you in and out in a few days"............ We its been 2.5 weeks ago since i dropped the bike off for the second time and basically they haven't done a damn thing at all. The service manager even lied to me last saturday and told me that they found the problem and it would be ready this wednesday. When i went there yesterday one of the tech admitted me that they in fact had not found the problem, didn't know why the service manager told me that, and the were waiting on the regional tech to come by and help them out.

At this point, enough was enough, and I reported the activity to mother honda who has opened up a case and will be following up with the dealer and myself next week. They will NEVER get my business again.

Grant
Wow. I go to my dealer 2 miles from my house. The mechanic, put new tires, new brake pads and the recall in 3 hours. Plus he put the steel valve stems I handed to him in. I only normally take my bikes, or sometimes just the wheels, into a shop for tires. I figured I let him change my brake pads while he had it in. They were down to 30%.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Soundstream makes good audio eqpt.

[stevenolts]

Blueverclear,

I would be in jail for going off and attacking the dealer.

Sorry to hear about the long wait / I don't know where you live but the weather here in St Louis has not been great for riding anyway. It was better a month ago than it is now that it is spring.

[blueverclear]

Blueverclear,

I would be in jail for going off and attacking the dealer.

Sorry to hear about the long wait / I don't know where you live but the weather here in St Louis has not been great for riding anyway. It was better a month ago than it is now that it is spring.

Yea thats why I called mother honda. I will be dealing with one of their representatives from now on who is supposed to be calling me tuesday because if I go back to that dealer before my bike is done then I will be in jail.

[MisterB]

That is an interesting tool. I did not know that it existed.

Dremeling these speakers with a cut off wheel certainly can be a little messy; with all of the shavings adhering due to magnetism if you don't wrap the speaker up to prevent such. That is why I opted for the tin snips this second time around... was much cleaner. Though I wish I had one of those nibbler tools now...
Here's a video of them in action, takes a couple minutes to get to some action.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNAz63vHYDg

[thunder217]

Ok guys, I have followed this thread from the beginning and I guess I will have to crack the case and see for myself. I did purchase the JBL GX602 but from the post all of the cutting was done on the previous JBLs that we first started replacement with. Do we have to still cut the new GX620 the same way we cut the previous speakers or are there not fitment issues. Just checking. Going to crack the nut now. Let me know. Secondly is the thought to remove and or disconnect the tweeter. Does it go or does it stay or is this a preference.

Let me know. Thanks. Going to see for myself. :yikes:

[TailGunner]

Ok guys, I have followed this thread from the beginning and I guess I will have to crack the case and see for myself. I did purchase the JBL GX602 but from the post all of the cutting was done on the previous JBLs that we first started replacement with. Do we have to still cut the new GX620 the same way we cut the previous speakers or are there not fitment issues. Just checking. Going to crack the nut now. Let me know. Secondly is the thought to remove and or disconnect the tweeter. Does it go or does it stay or is this a preference.

Let me know. Thanks. Going to see for myself. :yikes:
Don't know about that speaker but I would think you would still need to cut some part of it off. I just unhooked the stock tweeters

[98valk]

Secondly is the thought to remove and or disconnect the tweeter. Does it go or does it stay or is this a preference.

Let me know. Thanks. Going to see for myself. :yikes:

As configured, the stock tweeters make negligible sound. Everyone should disconnect them, hide the wiring and never have to mess with them again.

Or add a 3.3uf capacitor to each of them and make them real tweeters.

And "no" it is not my lack of hearing (you know who you are). :icon_razz:

[ths61]

As configured, the stock tweeters make negligible sound. Everyone should disconnect them, hide the wiring and never have to mess with them again.

Or add a 3.3uf capacitor to each of them and make them real tweeters.

And "no" it is not my lack of hearing (you know who you are). :icon_razz:

How would adding a cap make them a "real tweeter" ?

[98valk]

The cap and the tweeter speaker are in series. Stock uses a .68uf cap. That is about 24 ohms @ 10khz. The speaker is 4 ohms and 15 watts. That leaves about 1/7th of the voltage for the speaker (~1/50th of the power). Won't make much sound.

I dissected a boss speaker that I had blown up. As it turns out, it also uses a 3.3uf cap in it (just a coincidence). Both my modified stock tweeter and the boss tweeter sound the same when hooked to a stereo.

YMMV, but that is what I have found.

Someone else had tried the tweeter on its own and verified that it is pretty soundless.

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

Un plug the oem tweeter, it now serves no purpose.
And will just muddle the sound if mixed with both a coaxial and or a 3 way speaker as is the JBL.

[blueverclear]

Ok guys, I have followed this thread from the beginning and I guess I will have to crack the case and see for myself. I did purchase the JBL GX602 but from the post all of the cutting was done on the previous JBLs that we first started replacement with. Do we have to still cut the new GX620 the same way we cut the previous speakers or are there not fitment issues. Just checking. Going to crack the nut now. Let me know. Secondly is the thought to remove and or disconnect the tweeter. Does it go or does it stay or is this a preference.

Let me know. Thanks. Going to see for myself. :yikes:

I have the gx602s and cut it the same way as the older speakers. I used a set of pliers and bent the lip down in those 2 sections and cut them with some scissors strong enough to cut throught thin metal. It was pretty easy actually lol

Grant

3971

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

You will likely have to cut any 6.5 inch speaker somewhat, in the same approximate 930 and 230 positions to make fit.
Don't cut any speaker or tweeter wires. Just tuck the tweeter wire in the fairing, leave the cap on the tweeter and hook up the oem speaker wires to your new speakers. The large spade is always positive.
You may also have some trimming on the bottom of the speaker basket to allow the shelter to snap back on correctly. Not always required.

[thunder217]

Hey guys just got finished and sitting here in my drive way the JBL sound great. I did leave my tweeters installed and they sound great also. I think the JBLs sound much better than the stock speakers. The mod is worth it. I had to break off the edge of three corners on the shift side speaker and just two edges on the brake side. The Panel fits perfectly and the sound is way more than the stock speakers. I did also have to squeeze the female connectors to make them fit firmly. I will later this week disconnect the tweeters to see if it makes a difference of not. Thanks again for all of the forums help. This is worth the change. :icon_redface:

[blueverclear]

Hey guys just got finished and sitting here in my drive way the JBL sound great. I did leave my tweeters installed and they sound great also. I think the JBLs sound much better than the stock speakers. The mod is worth it. I had to break off the edge of three corners on the shift side speaker and just two edges on the brake side. The Panel fits perfectly and the sound is way more than the stock speakers. I did also have to squeeze the female connectors to make them fit firmly. I will later this week disconnect the tweeters to see if it makes a difference of not. Thanks again for all of the forums help. This is worth the change. :icon_redface:

Glad you got it done brother!

Grant

[MisterB]

Started in on this project tonight, got the left speaker cut to fit and tried a sound test using the 1/8" input in left pocket from iPhone out. Balance control is available in Accessibility options to A/B them, audio output set to Mono.
They are certainly not more efficient than the stock speakers, but they do shine in the high end. If you need more treble these are a great fix. Hi-hat on Travelin' Man sounded like it was in the garage with me.
I've tested the stock speakers against some 94db (rated) Cerwin-Vega XED62 and the stock were louder. Amazing.
The JBL midrange didn't punch the way the stocks do. This is not necessarily a good thing for home speakers but it seems like the stocks are optimized for the cabinets and to be heard over riding noise.
The JBLs would probably sound great in a system that had some larger speakers to help out with the bass, would likely sound great inside a vehicle.
I used speaker sealing gasket when installing, so leakage wasn't a factor with the bass.
For as loud as the stock "woofers" are, the tweeters don't seem to keep up. I'll be looking for and testing out a few, may have to get creative with installation.
Since this isn't critical listening I'm not ruling out Piezo.

If any local riders want to buy my JBL GTO638s for $25 respond below and we'll meet up, don't want to mess with shipping. One is already trimmed to fit, I will make the cut suggested by WillTill(:thumb:) on the other speaker also so your instrument console cover fits, I'll let you trim the other 2 sections on the right speaker. I pitched the grills and box as soon as I got them, so grills and box not included.
Would also trade 1:1 for a set of stock speakers.

[oiler]

Started in on this project tonight, got the left speaker cut to fit and tried a sound test using the 1/8" input in left pocket from iPhone out. Balance control is available in Accessibility options to A/B them, audio output set to Mono.
They are certainly not more efficient than the stock speakers, but they do shine in the high end. If you need more treble these are a great fix. Hi-hat on Travelin' Man sounded like it was in the garage with me.
I've tested the stock speakers against some 94db (rated) Cerwin-Vega XED62 and the stock were louder. Amazing.
The JBL midrange didn't punch the way the stocks do. This is not necessarily a good thing for home speakers but it seems like the stocks are optimized for the cabinets and to be heard over riding noise.
The JBLs would probably sound great in a system that had some larger speakers to help out with the bass, would likely sound great inside a vehicle.
I used speaker sealing gasket when installing, so leakage wasn't a factor with the bass.
For as loud as the stock "woofers" are, the tweeters don't seem to keep up. I'll be looking for and testing out a few, may have to get creative with installation.
Since this isn't critical listening I'm not ruling out Piezo.

If any local riders want to buy my JBL GTO638s for $25 respond below and we'll meet up, don't want to mess with shipping. One is already trimmed to fit, I will make the cut suggested by WillTill(:thumb:) on the other speaker also so your instrument console cover fits, I'll let you trim the other 2 sections on the right speaker. I pitched the grills and box as soon as I got them, so grills and box not included.
Would also trade 1:1 for a set of stock speakers.

I thought I read somewhere that you have to have them both plugged in...

[MisterB]

I thought I read somewhere that you have to have them both plugged in...
Using A/B and A+B comparisons helps overcome confirmation bias and our generally poor echoic memory when trying to remember a full spectrum of sounds in a musical performance.
These speakers alone would sound fine, just not the sound I was hoping for.
From what I've seen its gonna require going the JimmyT route to get noticeable gains. Thats more modification than I want to do so I'm gonna stick with stock. I really love the grip controls for volume and track selection and don't want to lose it.
Upgraded tweeters and maybe a sub in the trunk might be the solution for me. YMMV.

[53driver]

I'd love to take this system out of my barn and put it on my bike, but I just don't see that happening...

20351

[blueverclear]

I'd love to take this system out of my barn and put it on my bike, but I just don't see that happening...

20351

Well that is just amazing lol

[Greg O]

Started in on this project tonight, got the left speaker cut to fit and tried a sound test using the 1/8" input in left pocket from iPhone out. Balance control is available in Accessibility options to A/B them, audio output set to Mono.
They are certainly not more efficient than the stock speakers, but they do shine in the high end. If you need more treble these are a great fix. Hi-hat on Travelin' Man sounded like it was in the garage with me.
I've tested the stock speakers against some 94db (rated) Cerwin-Vega XED62 and the stock were louder. Amazing.
The JBL midrange didn't punch the way the stocks do. This is not necessarily a good thing for home speakers but it seems like the stocks are optimized for the cabinets and to be heard over riding noise.
The JBLs would probably sound great in a system that had some larger speakers to help out with the bass, would likely sound great inside a vehicle.
I used speaker sealing gasket when installing, so leakage wasn't a factor with the bass.
For as loud as the stock "woofers" are, the tweeters don't seem to keep up. I'll be looking for and testing out a few, may have to get creative with installation.
Since this isn't critical listening I'm not ruling out Piezo.

If any local riders want to buy my JBL GTO638s for $25 respond below and we'll meet up, don't want to mess with shipping. One is already trimmed to fit, I will make the cut suggested by WillTill(:thumb:) on the other speaker also so your instrument console cover fits, I'll let you trim the other 2 sections on the right speaker. I pitched the grills and box as soon as I got them, so grills and box not included.
Would also trade 1:1 for a set of stock speakers.

I agree with Mister B, after riding with these 638's for a few days now. I don't necessarily agree that theses are a upgrade to what the stock speakers are. I find myself running these at volume 24 instead of 16 as with the stock speakers. The 638's are by far clearer at higher volume, but they are not full range speakers. I will also be looking for replacements. I just wish Honda would make a upgraded plug and play system that could be changed out like Harleys have. My Electra Glide system would blow the F6B's system away. I have to do something, because I really like rocking when I ride.

[Slammd]

I agree with Mister B, after riding with these 638's for a few days now. I don't necessarily agree that theses are a upgrade to what the stock speakers are. I find myself running these at volume 24 instead of 16 as with the stock speakers. The 638's are by far clearer at higher volume, but they are not full range speakers. I will also be looking for replacements. I just wish Honda would make a upgraded plug and play system that could be changed out like Harleys have. My Electra Glide system would blow the F6B's system away. I have to do something, because I really like rocking when I ride.


Well, I guess I wasted $50:icon_frown:..So has anyone tried installing a set of Biketronics Titan II's? The company makes/offers a good product and have used their components on harley's with great success (meaning, when paired with a quality amp, kick arse!). These speakers are 6.5" and are rated at 100w rms. I really believe we will be very hard pressed to get real volume and quality sound out of the stock amp and lower power rated speakers.

[Greg O]

I think an amp replacement is necessary to get high quality sound, which I am willing to do, but with that a complete rewire is needed which I am not willing to do. Honda neededs to come up with a new sound harness,amp, and speakers as a package.

[Jimmytee]

Just need to go all in. :icon_cool:

[ths61]

Well, I guess I wasted $50:icon_frown:..So has anyone tried installing a set of Biketronics Titan II's? The company makes/offers a good product and have used their components on harley's with great success (meaning, when paired with a quality amp, kick arse!). These speakers are 6.5" and are rated at 100w rms. I really believe we will be very hard pressed to get real volume and quality sound out of the stock amp and lower power rated speakers.

FWIW, I liked the sound of the GTO638's (tight seal and polyfill helped). They could take 100% of the OEM volume without distorting but I fried one with the aftermarket amp which lead to something that could handle more power. Actually, one of the GT0638's were suspect when I received it. It would exhibit a slight buzz at a specific frequency and the aftermarket amp most likely gave it a mercy killing.

I am considering the Titan II 7.1's BT474 for the back tour pack. The Titan II 6.5's BT477 would need tapered 12-14mm spacer rings (140.7mm diameter hole (F6B OEM holes are @ 130mm) and 68.8mm mounting depth (F6B OEM depth is @ 55mm)) from my calculations and may require milling the dash cover. It has been on my radar, but not until the rears are in. I was going to call Bill @ BT and ask him if he has a spent 6.5" carcass that I could experiment fitment with. I have found a vendor in Wisconsin that can make the custom spacer rings. He has multiple sizes of rings on EBay of which one set should work if it is tapered on the inside to makeup for the 11mm difference in hole sizes. The radius would have to shrink/grow 5.5mm over the 12-14mm height taper.

FWIW, I am using the Infinity Kappa 6.5's currently with the Biketronics BT4180 amp. The HD guys rate the Kappa's as good and the Titan II's as the next step up. They also like the ARC MOTO's (better bass, less clarity than the Titan II's) and Focal KRC's which are larger, more $$$ than the Titan II's and will most likely not fit the F6B.

The Titan II 6.5's are rebranded Hybrid Audio Technology (HAT) Imagine I61-2V2 with a lifetime Biketronics guarantee. Can't beat that.

The Titan II 7.1's are also HAT's specially made for Biketronics. They also have a 7.1 Pro set for some extra $$$.

http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/28507/products/166/images/454/DSC_2956r_2__39231.1339273197.1280.1280.jpg


I think an amp replacement is necessary to get high quality sound, which I am willing to do, but with that a complete rewire is needed which I am not willing to do. Honda neededs to come up with a new sound harness,amp, and speakers as a package.

Running the new larger gauge speaker wires is a piece of cake. Mustering up enough nerve to cut the OEM amp harness takes a little more effort. :icon_biggrin::icon_biggrin::icon_biggrin:

[dlos1987]

I see that the bolts used to hold the speakers are the stock black ones. If the speakers are a perfect fit, why did you use different bolts?

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

I see that the bolts used to hold the speakers are the stock black ones. If the speakers are a perfect fit, why did you use different bolts?

dlos.. No manufacturer's 6.5" speaker upgrade is a perfect fit. You will have to modify the basket on any speaker measuring 6.5" while trying to mount them in the front end of a Goldwing or F6b.
The stock bolts and rubber backed screws will work until you accidentally punch the rubber nut out, as I have. I've changed speakers on my rig so many times I had to reinvent the mounts as I pushed out most of the oem mounts, hence the larger, silver screws.

If you are looking for significantly better sound; best volume and clarity, you need an amplifier upgrade. If not, a taller windshield and the JBL, JM or oem will probably do.

In my experience it's good, better, best. Oem, upgrade alone, new amp and quality loudspeakers.

Your ears will burn differently.

J

[MisterB]

I've changed speakers on my rig so many times I had to reinvent the mounts as I pushed out most of the oem mounts, hence the larger, silver screws.


Ha ha, I feel like I'm getting there also. Happy every time I feel the screw get tight.

[Craig_328]

dlos.. No manufacturer's 6.5" speaker upgrade is a perfect fit. You will have to modify the basket on any speaker measuring 6.5" while trying to mount them in the front end of a Goldwing or F6b.
The stock bolts and rubber backed screws will work until you accidentally punch the rubber nut out, as I have. I've changed speakers on my rig so many times I had to reinvent the mounts as I pushed out most of the oem mounts, hence the larger, silver screws.

If you are looking for significantly better sound; best volume and clarity, you need an amplifier upgrade. If not, a taller windshield and the JBL, JM or oem will probably do.

In my experience it's good, better, best. Oem, upgrade alone, new amp and quality loudspeakers.

Your ears will burn differently.

J

What amp would you suggest replacing with the JBL speakers discussed in this forum - or did I just start a whole new topic....... :icon_rolleyes::icon_rolleyes::icon_rolleyes:

[ths61]

What amp would you suggest replacing with the JBL speakers discussed in this forum - or did I just start a whole new topic....... :icon_rolleyes::icon_rolleyes::icon_rolleyes:

This inexpensive small form factor amp has received good reviews and is 2 ohm stable. JimmyTee has been using it with good results. It has more power than what the JBL's can handle so you can't run it full tilt.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html

[Jimmytee]

This inexpensive small form factor amp has received good reviews and is 2 ohm stable. JimmyTee has been using it with good results. It has more power than what the JBL's can handle so you can't run it full tilt.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html

About a year and a half and no complaints.

Well, except from my wife when I've turned it up too late and she's upstairs.:shhh:

[Dirtstiff's F6B]

What amp would you suggest replacing with the JBL speakers discussed in this forum - or did I just start a whole new topic....... :icon_rolleyes::icon_rolleyes::icon_rolleyes:

Sorry, I just answered your pm's. I've been busy.
Amps - The NVX as described is a good micro size amp aND its CE rated, meaning it does what its rated for. I would have bought it had it not been back ordered.
Look for something that will match the RMS value of the speakers you choose to add. A 4 ohm gives you a bit more build flexibility for adding speakers or subwoofers, later. Look also for a very low THD, total harmonic distortion value. Less than .05% or half percent.
I use Polk amps. They cost more but pack a punch; 100+ watts RMS per channel and deliver very clean sound. $ 150 to $ 200 bucks.
How you get your signal from the oem head to the amp is worth reading Jimmie Tees adventure.
A really clean input signal pretty much seperates out the oem amp.

Good luck

Jim

[pdxstriper]

I installed the JBLs and am very happy with the result. Far from an audiofile, even I could tell the difference over the stock speakers. They seem louder, much clearer, and much, much clearer at higher volume.

Special call out to Hornblower, thanks for the excellent pictures showing where to trim them to get 'me to fit. I also followed someone's advice and did not connect the factory tweeters.

Highly recommended. Great results. Also, how many farkles are left that come in at <$100?

[choptop]

I installed the JBLs and am very happy with the result. Far from an audiofile, even I could tell the difference over the stock speakers. They seem louder, much clearer, and much, much clearer at higher volume.

Special call out to Hornblower, thanks for the excellent pictures showing where to trim them to get 'me to fit. I also followed someone's advice and did not connect the factory tweeters.

Highly recommended. Great results. Also, how many farkles are left that come in at <$100?


I will second that !!!! I actually sold my J&M's, that I bought from Wingstuff, this weekend to a lurker on here, Ron, who I hope signs up and becomes a member.

[Craig_328]

Sorry, I just answered your pm's. I've been busy.
Amps - The NVX as described is a good micro size amp aND its CE rated, meaning it does what its rated for. I would have bought it had it not been back ordered.
Look for something that will match the RMS value of the speakers you choose to add. A 4 ohm gives you a bit more build flexibility for adding speakers or subwoofers, later. Look also for a very low THD, total harmonic distortion value. Less than .05% or half percent.
I use Polk amps. They cost more but pack a punch; 100+ watts RMS per channel and deliver very clean sound. $ 150 to $ 200 bucks.
How you get your signal from the oem head to the amp is worth reading Jimmie Tees adventure.
A really clean input signal pretty much seperates out the oem amp.

Good luck

Jim


I'll order the amp soon. First question is where is the install write-up?

Second- how do I get my volume to stay at a true 30? It seems to go to 20 and stay there at high speed. I read somewhere on here someone else experienced this same issue

[ths61]

I'll order the amp soon. First question is where is the install write-up?

Second- how do I get my volume to stay at a true 30? It seems to go to 20 and stay there at high speed. I read somewhere on here someone else experienced this same issue

Here is JimmyTee's install thread sticky and some pictures of the shop manual's OEM preamp wire colors to get you started.

My adventures in F6B Audio Upgrade (http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?4677-My-adventures-in-F6B-Audio-Upgrade&p=116790#post116790)

Other threads indicate the 20/30 is related to AVC being turned on. You need to turn off the AVC functionality.