F6B service recommendations

[Bill_C]

Hi, I'm looking for a reputable place in northern NJ to get the F6B serviced. I could pick a local Honda dealer, but I would also consider other places if others have had positive experiences. Would appreciate any thoughts - thanks.

[VStarRider]

Bill, what type of service are you looking for?

[Bill_C]

Hi, I'm looking for the 4k mile service. I might do a bit more, maybe the air filter because the bike was in a dusty climate for a while. Overall nothing out of the ordinary though.

[VStarRider]

At 4K, I think you just need to change the oil/filter. Trust me, I am no mechanic...its very easy to do, unlike most bikes. I was ready to take mine to the dealer and spend $120 on an oil change till the guys on here told me how easy it was. I did myself last Sunday, and I don't have the center stand.

Check out this video, knowing that you won't have to take anything off / disconnect anything underneath an F6B unlike the full Wing in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYdClODGZPg

[Bill_C]

Thanks for the tip, and great video. I was thinking about doing the oil/filter myself, should be a pretty easy project...

Again, thanks for the input much appreciated.

[stroguy]

It's very easy. Very with a big ole V. Your air filter is good. I had mine changed during a warranty drop off at 12000 and it was a waste. The filter still looked brand new out of the wrapper. Wouldn't worry until 30K, maybe a hair sooner.

[seadog]

They have to tear half the bike apart to get to said filter and you will be paying for about 2 to 3 hours labor to put a new filter in it. Watch you fuel mileage and if your up in the 39 to 44 mile per gallon range your filter is fine. Most people don't change it until 25 to 30 thousand miles.

[Bill_C]

I'll probably stick with the oil/filter and skip the rest for now, again thanks for all the input. I may have just saved a few bucks and created an opportunity to spend more time with the bike...

[stroguy]

Wear gloves when you uncork the oil drain bolt. My pinky is just now recovering. It is a tight fit underneath and I never seem to learn my lesson.

[willtill]

Wear gloves when you uncork the oil drain bolt. My pinky is just now recovering. It is a tight fit underneath and I never seem to learn my lesson.

Hot oil; eh? :icon_wink:

[bob109]

Wear gloves when you uncork the oil drain bolt. My pinky is just now recovering. It is a tight fit underneath and I never seem to learn my lesson.

There's no question the filter is a tight fit! That said I managed to "massage" the lower front plastic shroud which gives much needed room for filter access and removal. Attached is my original post/thread on the subject! It a quick and easy fix IMHO:shhh:

http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?3713-Oil-Filter-Clearance-Remedy

[seadog]

There's no question the filter is a tight fit! That said I managed to "massage" the lower front plastic shroud which gives much needed room for filter access and removal. Attached is my original post/thread on the subject! It a quick and easy fix IMHO:shhh:

http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?3713-Oil-Filter-Clearance-Remedy

You can get the stock filter in and out without to much trouble but like this guy with the pure one filter you will have to make some room. Actually if your using a full synthetic in your bike you should be changing out the filter twice as much as the oil. Just cheap insurance.

[willtill]

You can get the stock filter in and out without to much trouble but like this guy with the pure one filter you will have to make some room. Actually if your using a full synthetic in your bike you should be changing out the filter twice as much as the oil. Just cheap insurance.

Huh? :shock: What? :twitch:

[F6Dave]

Huh? :shock: What? :twitch:

I think he is referring to the ability of full synthetic oil to significantly extend drain (but not filter) intervals. This used to be advertised as a reason to use synthetics. I haven't seen that mentioned as much lately, and personally wouldn't do it unless I had my used oil analyzed a few times to get a feel for how much life is left in it.

[stroguy]

Hot oil; eh? :icon_wink:

No, skint my knuckle on the concrete when the plug let loose. I would be afraid of wearing gloves with hot erl. But I don't preheat the oil, just let it drain for an hour while I do a bit of cleaning on the bike. I did find a $1 plastic shoe box from the dollar store makes a good drain catch for the oil vs a big ole round catch.

[willtill]

I think he is referring to the ability of full synthetic oil to significantly extend drain (but not filter) intervals. This used to be advertised as a reason to use synthetics. I haven't seen that mentioned as much lately, and personally wouldn't do it unless I had my used oil analyzed a few times to get a feel for how much life is left in it.

Ya... I sort of thought that... he wasn't being explicit though.

I'll just stick to my regular drain intervals/filter replacements of 5 thousand miles/one year; regardless of the type oil I am using.

[opas ride]

Ya... I sort of thought that... he wasn't being explicit though.

I'll just stick to my regular drain intervals/filter replacements of 5 thousand miles/one year; regardless of the type oil I am using.

+1 and it works for me......Rotella T-6 and Honda filters....Ride safe

[bob109]

You can get the stock filter in and out without to much trouble but like this guy with the pure one filter you will have to make some room. Actually if your using a full synthetic in your bike you should be changing out the filter twice as much as the oil. Just cheap insurance.

The OEM Honda filter and the Purolater 14612 filter are identical in length:shhh: There is a 14610 version which is approximately 1/2" longer! The mod was performed so a ordinary metal strap filter wrench, I had on hand, could be used. With the number of filter wrenches in my tool collection, purchasing a "special thin filter wrench" made no sense:icon_wink:

[ReserveBum]

Last two oil changes I had used the K&N filter. Its short and has a 17mm nut affixed to the end that makes on/off very easy and no space issues.

[Wing'n it]

If you guys are fighting the oil filter wrench problem go to your local marina that deals with Evinrude and get the 4-stroke oil filter wrench. This thing is awesome and will fit even the tiniest of filters, the tighter the filter the harder this thing grabs it, works with 3/8 drive ratchet or 3/4 box wrench.

[willtill]

If you guys are fighting the oil filter wrench problem go to your local marina that deals with Evinrude and get the 4-stroke oil filter wrench. This thing is awesome and will fit even the tiniest of filters, the tighter the filter the harder this thing grabs it, works with 3/8 drive ratchet or 3/4 box wrench.

So what's wrong with pounding a screwdriver through the filter with a hammer? Doesn't anyone do that anymore?

:icon_mrgreen:

[BIGLRY]

So what's wrong with pounding a screwdriver through the filter with a hammer? Doesn't anyone do that anymore?

:icon_mrgreen:
Yep been there...done that
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g90/DrWho1943/OldFilterWrench.jpg
Even had to go this route once too.:icon_lol:
https://i2.wp.com/i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af124/goLoD/dscf0047_768.jpg

[shortleg0521]

Yep been there...done that
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g90/DrWho1943/OldFilterWrench.jpg
Even had to go this route once too.:icon_lol:
https://i2.wp.com/i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af124/goLoD/dscf0047_768.jpg

Now that there shows how a GOOD male mind works. ROTFLMAO!!!

[VStarRider]

Here's my best tool story:

About ten years ago, my father accused me of not returning a pair of his Vise Grips. I didn't remember taking them, and I even searched my garage multiple times looking for a set that did not belong to me. All mine were accounted for. Never found any others.

About four years ago, I was doing some maintenance under my snowmobile trailer. Here is what I found:

24314

After my shock had passed, my memory returned me to the day I was trying to free up the nut on this bolt that was underneath the trailer, and was used for the mechanism in the trailer that secures the skis to the bed while in transit. I had used his Vise-Grips to do this.

This tool stayed locked in place for over six years, blasted with salt, sand, water, frozen, rutted roads of ice and snow...even a trip to Canada and back. After a dousing of PB Blaster, I squeezed the release lever, and off it came. Still worked as well as it did the day I used it originally...just a little more flaky.

I did finally return my father's Vise-Grips....he was less than appreciative. :icon_redface:

[stroguy]

Bunch of caveman.

[bob109]

Here's my best tool story:

About ten years ago, my father accused me of not returning a pair of his Vise Grips. I didn't remember taking them, and I even searched my garage multiple times looking for a set that did not belong to me. All mine were accounted for. Never found any others.

About four years ago, I was doing some maintenance under my snowmobile trailer. Here is what I found:

24314

After my shock had passed, my memory returned me to the day I was trying to free up the nut on this bolt that was underneath the trailer, and was used for the mechanism in the trailer that secures the skis to the bed while in transit. I had used his Vise-Grips to do this.



This tool stayed locked in place for over six years, blasted with salt, sand, water, frozen, rutted roads of ice and snow...even a trip to Canada and back. After a dousing of PB Blaster, I squeezed the release lever, and off it came. Still worked as well as it did the day I used it originally...just a little more flaky.

I did finally return my father's Vise-Grips....he was less than appreciative. :icon_redface:

You may appreciate this remedy for your Dad's Vise Grips! Take the grips and immerse them in White Vinegar for a week or so! A clear plastic Tupper Ware Bowel makes the job easy. After several days of soaking you'll notice rust flakes on the bottom of the bowl which indicated the Vinegar is doing its job. Once you're convinced the grips are free of rust ( they'll turn pitch blade and remove any remaining chrome plate ) using rubber gloves, remove them from the bowl and dry them with compressed air. Give the a immediate coat of Rust-o-leum Satin Clear and your Dad will have a nice Black Anodized pair of Vise Grips. Believe me! This is a cure/fix for any rusted tools/hardware:icon_wink:

[F6Dave]

Yep been there...done that
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g90/DrWho1943/OldFilterWrench.jpg
Even had to go this route once too.:icon_lol:
https://i2.wp.com/i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af124/goLoD/dscf0047_768.jpg

Back in the 1970s a friend bought an early Datsun 240Z. He came over to my place (a rental duplex with half of a two-car garage!) to change the oil. It looked simple as there was plenty of room to work around that inline 6, and the filter was just hanging off the side. The filter wrench wouldn't budge it. The hammer and screwdriver didn't either. We tried about every trick we knew, but the filter simply did not move. Finally, we ripped the entire filter apart, leaving only the baseplate attached to the engine. I had to take a chisel and whack on the holes in the baseplate to get it to turn. That was far and away the tightest filter I've ever had to remove.

[wjduke]

Back in the 1970s a friend bought an early Datsun 240Z. He came over to my place (a rental duplex with half of a two-car garage!) to change the oil. It looked simple as there was plenty of room to work around that inline 6, and the filter was just hanging off the side. The filter wrench wouldn't budge it. The hammer and screwdriver didn't either. We tried about every trick we knew, but the filter simply did not move. Finally, we ripped the entire filter apart, leaving only the baseplate attached to the engine. I had to take a chisel and whack on the holes in the baseplate to get it to turn. That was far and away the tightest filter I've ever had to remove.

My father owned a gas station....many a filter we had to chisel off at the base.

[kenny urban]

Hi, I'm looking for a reputable place in northern NJ to get the F6B serviced. I could pick a local Honda dealer, but I would also consider other places if others have had positive experiences. Would appreciate any thoughts - thanks.I change the REAR-END Fluid every OTHER time I change the oil,,It is cheap compared to the cost of replacing the rear-end, and you never know WHEN it is going-Out, UNTILL It goes-out,,KennyU

[Bill_C]

Engine oil and filter changed, 100 miles later and no problems. I used all Honda parts and drain bolt and filter were torqued to spec.

Next up, the final drive oil...

[opas ride]

Just make sure to check the owners manual before changing the rear gear lube....Honda coats the gears with a special moly during assembly and recommends you NOT change it before 24,000 miles to insure longer gear life and less issues over the years.....Ride safe

[Bill_C]

Thanks for pointing that out, I will definitely look into that.

[VStarRider]

Engine oil and filter changed, 100 miles later and no problems. I used all Honda parts and drain bolt and filter were torqued to spec.

Next up, the final drive oil...

Nice work. I, too, was pleasantly surprised how easy this job was.

[Big TP]

I know the book calls for 10w 30 or 10w 40 but has anyone run 20w 50?? A friend told me it will perform better and shift more smoothly. But I am one of those guys that says you go by the book. I would think the thicker oil could put extra pressure on the seals.

Comments??

[opas ride]

I know the book calls for 10w 30 or 10w 40 but has anyone run 20w 50?? A friend told me it will perform better and shift more smoothly. But I am one of those guys that says you go by the book. I would think the thicker oil could put extra pressure on the seals.

Comments??

I have used 20W-50W in my big V-twins over the years, but never in the flat six motor...I would stick with the factory recommended weights....JMHO

[BIGLRY]

I know the book calls for 10w 30 or 10w 40 but has anyone run 20w 50?? A friend told me it will perform better and shift more smoothly. But I am one of those guys that says you go by the book. I would think the thicker oil could put extra pressure on the seals.

Comments??I for one would love to hear the explanation/reasoning for "perform better" since I'm quite sure that the Honda engineers of the flax 6 engine have done a lot of testing with plenty of empirical evidence of what is the best weight oil to use for protection & performance IMO.
As to "shift more smoothly" if my F6B shifted any smoother I would think I was riding an automatic trans steel steed.:icon_mrgreen:
I have found thicker oil does not blow seals, but plugged crank case vents do!

https://s3.amazonaws.com/lowres.jantoo.com/animal-kingdom-engine-seals-engine_seals-break_down-car-36532061_low.jpg

[willtill]

I have used 20W-50W in my big V-twins over the years, but never in the flat six motor...I would stick with the factory recommended weights....JMHO

+1

I went with 5w-40 a couple of days ago... I think the slightly thinner 5w (compared to 10w) not be a disadvantage in the wintertime here.

..and it's Seadog approved. :icon_mrgreen: He likes runny oils :shhh:

[Big TP]

I tend to agree with BIGLRY. But there is always someone local here in Florida that says, " It's way too hot here for that thin oil, use a 50w" On my first service I used the Honda Full Syn 10w 30. i guess I will go with 10w 40 on my next at 12k as per the book. Those same people are the ones that say, "You're crazy to change oil every 8k!!, I don't care what the manual says". I just pulled the stick with 6k on it and looks almost as clean as the day I changed it. Then I sit back and say that those engineers should now better than any shadetree. Then you here these stories of motors being taken apart at 100k with horrible wear due to lightweight oils especially in cars. No proof shown, just stories. :icon_rolleyes:

[VStarRider]

I tend to agree with BIGLRY. But there is always someone local here in Florida that says, " It's way too hot here for that thin oil, use a 50w" On my first service I used the Honda Full Syn 10w 30. i guess I will go with 10w 40 on my next at 12k as per the book. Those same people are the ones that say, "You're crazy to change oil every 8k!!, I don't care what the manual says". I just pulled the stick with 6k on it and looks almost as clean as the day I changed it. Then I sit back and say that those engineers should now better than any shadetree. Then you here these stories of motors being taken apart at 100k with horrible wear due to lightweight oils especially in cars. No proof shown, just stories. :icon_rolleyes:

x2.

Some folks say to change it more often, that oil is cheap insurance...but insurance against what? JMO, but insuring against nothing. Honda guarantees this motor for up to 7 years (with extended warranty) AND recommends 8k oil changes.

I'll wait for the first person who claims he/she wore out this engine with 8k oil changes.