Yes the hole on the right is just a round one as it was and not big enough to fit the connectors through. I just used a dremmel wit a cutting wheel and squared out the hole. Easy Peasy.
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I did get the PMX 8BB , looks like I'm going to do the same and put it in the stock box where the stock audio unit was. Haven't got the PAC yet, but will be adding it soon. I would definately need the know what 4 wires to tap into. I'm running a few days behind here with other household projects, and hope to jump back on this - this week. Thanks Again for your help.
Got the dremmel out tonight and sat the 8BB inside the stock audio housing box. Wishing the unit did not have all those extra zone out connections LOL, little on the bulky side. I know you mentioned tucking all the unused connectors back into the box, did you put the lid back on? or did you leave it off?. You also had put the PAC inside the box? I did a temporary hook up to test things out and liking so far.
I'm using three of the 4 zone outputs. Zone 1 for the front, zone2 for the rear speakers I have, and the sub pre outs from zone1 . I have zone 3 feeding a jack up in my left fairing pocket to feed a Sens Bluetooth transmitter if I just want to hear music in my helmet. I am not using zone 4 or the two auxilary inputs. or the white USB charging jack
I have the Sirius XM plugged up to my SiriusXM tuner.
I have the PAC unit plugged into the Steering WHeel input jack
I have my powered antenna plugged into the antenna.
I have the cable that connects to a USB jack in my left fairing pocket plugged up to the USB input.
The PAC unit, Zone 4 pre out, the white USB charging jack and the two aux inputs are in the box and I have the cover back on the box. There really is plenty of room.
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psewajhpob.jpg
Got a chance to get back to working on it, did a rough hook up to test things out. I'm so glad I went with the 8BB, and so glad that I could not the PMX2 to fit. Big differnces with how the bluetooth works with my iPhone, it shows album art with everything I throw at it, internal I phone music, google play, pandora - etc, where the PMX2 did not unless it was hooked up via USB. Also Bluetooth connects quickly, works better than my truck with a Pioneer head unit.
Very Pleased so far and getting great sound from that unit, still at flat setting and amp set to full range. I don't have my sub yet and haven't played with any settings yet.
When you get a chance , can I get what 4 wires I need to tap into for the PAC, and did you also hook up the mute function? Wanted to at least get that sorted out before taping- securing that bulky wiring harness. I don't have a workshop manual, awhile back dealer did not have and said would take awhile to get one- I haven't tryed lately. Thanks again.
I just might actually get this thing done soon, funny how work and family functions get in the way getting her done LOL.
There are 2) 24 pin gray plugs that plug into the "Audio Unit " . The main box that sits inside the black box under the seat.
We're only dealing with one of those plugs.
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psq4svtzis.jpg
One of the plugs has a white latch ,that one is not our concern.
You're looking for 4 wires on that plug. I cut them a couple inches back from the plug. If,for whatever reason, you wanted to reconnect them, a simple splice would repair it.
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psqu2efosx.jpg
Basically a yellow, white,black and brown wires
I don't know how well this picture will come out ,but this is a pic of the schematic /wiring diagram.
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...pshq2nskcd.jpg
I wired /soldered a resistor to each wire. I then paired the other side of those resistors down to 2 wires.
I used an online resistance calculator for the values. It's on this site. http://pac-audio.com/support.aspx
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...pszzjscd4z.jpg
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psgdad9p8o.jpg
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...pszermhssw.jpg
Basically the yellow and white wires each have a resistor soldered to them , then the other side of those resistors are put together to be soldered to the white wire of the PAC unit. The black and brown wires are the same, but they go to the black wire of the PAC unit which is actually ground or negative. The PAC has a black wire that comes out and has two black wires attached to it, One of those goes to negative or ground and the other you'll use to attach to the brown and black wired resistors. The white wire from the PAC unit actually has three white wires. I used the one with no stripe, The others are fine, they just add resistors.
It might sound more complicated than it is, but it really is pretty simple. I had to identify which wires were what using a multi-meter and the wiring diagram,
I found out that to get the Rockford unit working, I had to set the PAC unit for "Clarion" Had to call tech support for that.
Wow and thanks again. I will give it a try this weekend.
No problem. I forgot to mention that I did not concern myself with the Mute function. This would have to be done outside of the PAC steering wheel adapter for a couple reasons.
One, the handlebar "Mute" button is not a momentary switch. I don't know if it were to be dissected, if it could be converted, but could just be Pandora's box to put it all back together.
Two, there isn't a Mute function to program into the PAC unit for the 8BB under the Clarion program list.
Now the way you could utilize the Mute button would be to interrupt the amplifier trigger signal that turns on the amplifier thus turning off the amp with the Mute button. This would in effect, mute the audio. According to the wiring diagram, though, the wiring for the mut button goes through a different wiring harness and terminates somewhere else. So one would have to either go to the switch, or find where the wires terminate at to wire them up. If the wires had terminated in the same bundle as the other wires, I would have gone the route of wiring up as I mentioned. As it is, it wasn't that important to me.
Finally got some time yesterday to get back on this. Ran into problem bundled the harness and connections forward of the audio box, but I have the stock seat and have no room in between the bottom of the seat and upper rear fender. Just removed the stock audio box completely and turned 888b unit the connections facing to left side of the bike, allowing the factory wiring to come more to the rear. I see that you have a Corbin seat and I know another person was able to put a couple of small amps under there with a mustang seat, no way with the stock seat. Also haven't got the PAC yet, been reading up on the instructions with them and also with yours also. The big ??is which resistors did you put with those wires - and were they the ones supplied with the PAC unit? I'm good more with plug and play and fabrication, but when it comes to figuring that out is above myself even with your detailed instructions. That's my update so far and again thanks.
I actually test fitted mine with the OEM seat as my Corbin was at the upholstery shop at the time. I did end up squeezing almost all the RCA connectors back into the box because there was not enough room for the seat otherwise like you said. But I got it to fit.
Yes the resistors come with the PAC unit. I think there should be a link to the online resistance calculator that is helpful in determining which resistor combinations work best. When you get it I can do my best to help you from this side of things.
Jimmytee , how's your PAC controls been working? Mine have been working great sitting in garage - all the time when 1st using. I have ran into issues with the volume down after riding the bike for about a half hour or after using volume down several times it quits working. Volume up and track/station up and also down always work with no issues. Was thinking maybe a connection issue at 1st, but my thinking changed when it started working o.k. on the next ride- day untill I rode for 20-30 mins again it quit working - volume down.
Not had any issues with my volume buttons. I've had an issue with my track up button though. My track up button wants to instead raise the volume.
It worked perfectly when I installed and tested it, but after I shrank wrapped everything and had it all tucked away, it started acting as you described only with the symptoms I described. I figure it is one , an issue with the PAC unit or two, there needs to be a larger resistance difference between the track up and volume up functions. At some point I'll dig back into it, but after all the stuff I did to my bike with suspension upgrades, saddlebag openers and so on, I was done. It will wait, and until then I just settle for reaching down to the controller to change tracks.
However, if it were my volume, I'd be more inclined to dig back into it. I've not had an issue with the volume functions. That's probably the most important one. Did you test out your functions with the bike running ? I know the higher voltages from the alternator output can have an effect on the funcions.
Man, I need those pictures...
Does anyone know if there is a way to download the pics?
Hi, I'm new to the site and to Goldwings. I bought a new 2016 F6B and want to upgrade the audio. In order to install a powered sub in the saddlebag, where do you get the inputs from? I don't want to remove the stock amp yet as my budget won't allow me to spend that much money right now, but I do plan to add two 4" speakers in the fairing using the rear speaker outputs. Can I tap into the + of one channel and the - of the other before the factory amp for the sub? How would that work? Any assistance you can lend me is greatly appreciated.
I'd hold out a bit. There is someone that is going to be offering some audio stuff for the F6B and Gold Wing. Among the items are some speaker pods for the fairing that would replace the left side pocket and the lid on the right side. These pods will accommodate 6.5" speakers. As far as a sub, it is going to need to be amplified, whether by an on board amp or a separate amp. As far as getting a signal from the stock system to another amp, that is a mixed bag of nuts. I had little success in a satisfactory outcome trying to use the speaker level outputs of the OEM system. I originally ended up , as detailed in this post, finding the pre out signals from the OEM head unit. Some others have done it, but my experience wasn't positive with the high level outputs. Now, I no longer have any of the factory system on my B.
Jimmyt, I think you missed that he is asking about tapping pre factory amp, not post. And as I have pointed out previously, my experience with tapping post amp was favorable.
cdtessmer,
Search for my post on audio upgrade for details on what to tap. I have schematics showing what you need.
I think you should re read my post. I specifically mentioned hooking it up from the pre outs. I detailed it greatly in this thread. Pictures are no longer there because of the deal with Photobucket screwing everyone over.:icon_rolleyes: He also mentioned not having a lot to spend right now, but yeah he should buy that Audison Prima.:icon_lol::icon_lol::icon_lol::icon_lol::ico n_lol:
Alright you two - we'll have a stereo war on Saturday.
Musicians & sound engineers will judge.
Steve
Still crossing those swords I see.......swordfight :stirthepot:
:icon_lol: I hope there are others that surprise us with some innovative upgrades. There is a shop in AZ that has promised to begin offering some F6B specific audio upgrades. Unfortunately, their schedule was already too full up with tings like Sturgis to have product ready for our Rally.
I know this is an older thread, but just wanted to say thanks to Jimmytee! I Just finished my install with NVX 4 channel amp, infinity Kappa 6.5 speakers, and J&L 6.5 sub. Very pleased with results and this thread made install a “breeze”!
Jimmie,
Are you now running Hertz HSK Component Speakers?
Thanks
Jim
Yes, I am running the Hertz HSK component speakers in the stock locations and Herts HMX 6.5s in custom speaker pods I made.
Did you get the tweeters to fit in the stock tweeter hole in the shelter?
The I have mine surface mounted over the original tweeter location. That is how I originally had the Polk Tweeters and I just did the same thing with the Hertz. I think the tweeters could go into the stock tweeter location, but would require you to remove the tweeters from their casing or housing without damging them . It's been done, I just didn't do it that way. Here is a shot. Yeah lots' of dust/dirt in this shot.
https://i.imgur.com/aqj58ri.jpg
I mounted the tweeters in the stock holes. Yes, you have to remove the grill from the tweeter very carefully.
Attachment 4951Attachment 4952
Well...there goes another 4 bills on the quest for the perfect MC speakers..Hertz HSK 130 5.25". Where is that idiot smiley emoji to insert here..
I may quiz you Pilot, on your tweeter transplant surgery.
Thanks
J
Jimmie or Pilot,
Could either measure the circumference - diameter of the HSK tweeter with the grill on or off, if it comes off?
I've removed the OEM tweeters; piece of cake, push on the tabs and they come out without any drama.
Trying to mentally fit the HSK tweeters before they arrive.
Thanks.
I believe can get you some measurements tomorrow