Yes, I installed the HSK 130 set.
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-a...energy-hsk130/
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Yes, I installed the HSK 130 set.
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-a...energy-hsk130/
I chose the following amp for my installation. I am using the OEM stereo and grabbing the preamp speaker outs.
http://www.arcaudio.com/p/ks-125-2-b..._ks-mini?pp=24
I have been pretty happy with the output of the MVX amp. It pumps out a healthy amount of juice and has been doing so for over 2 years now. It's been powering the Polks which are 2.7 nominal impedance and the JL Audio Sub. Just was trying to remember what Robert was pushing the Hertz with. Contemplating making a change to the Hertz , but they are 4 ohm. Believe I should be just fine though. Contemplated running the NVX bridged to the Hertz and a different amp for the sub, but that would probably not be needed.
For some reason I was thinking that someone had been able to fit the 6.5 Hertz speakers in. I have the Polk 6.5" component speakers but the magnets on the woofers have Neodymium magnets so there is more room for them.
Robert is using the Audison Prima AP8.9
http://www.audison.eu/index.php?page=product&id=50
I don't think you can get the Hertz 6.5 in the stock location. The limiting factors are the baskets and magnets. I have a pair that I was going to attempt installing and they are huge.
Thanks, I know which amp he is using , but that amp can be used in different configurations. I was trying to remember what configuration. I am pretty sure he was running the woofers and tweeters separately. I am toying with changing speakers to the Hertz. The Audison does look impressive. Don't think I'm there yet. If I was using the stock head unit, it might be different. :icon_wink:
Tried posting this three times. Here is the short version: get an amp with a DSP to really get the most out of these speakers. I was running bi-amp 130W RMS @12v to each speaker (left woofer, left tweeter, right woofer, right tweeter.) According to the specs, if you bypass the limiter, you can technically get 170W RMS @ 14.4v per channel but at 10x the THD.
output 1+ & 2- went to the left tweeter, output 3+ and 4- to left woofer. output 5+& 6- to right tweeter, output 7+ and 8- to right woofer.
If you get an amp with DSP, you can skip installing the two crossovers and you get the benefit of each speaker get's its own power. When the kick drum/bass hits, your tweeters can still use full power for the cymbals & that female voice's sexy breathy sounds. If you use a standard two channel amp, it's like you are taking a shower and someone flushes the toilet. The water pressure drops, and you can't wash the soap out of your hair, and the temperature difference is like the crispness of the highs being washed out. That is not 100% accurate but gets the point across. It's a couple hundred more, but it's so worth it. Ask any professional sound installer/ sound engineer. Ask them if they want to run two-way passive or two-way active. Any sound engineers in here who can back me? preferably one who heard my system (that wasn't even dialed in completely.)
Attachment 25248Attachment 25249Attachment 25250Attachment 25251
Some options. Note: I have no experience or opinion of anything but the Audison. Audison is at the same level as these Hertz speakers - competition level. The others, your mileage may vary. Spend the extra couple hundred over the Arc and gain SO much more control, accuracy, etc. For example, I have a controller with two settings, one for when my bike is parked (maximum performance) and one for when I am riding (not as accurate, less bass but more power for volume.)
Audison 8.9
Audison 4.9 (half the power, same DSP)
Match PP82DSP
AudioControl DM-810 (DSP only, no amp Audison makes an alternative as well. This could be added to a 4-channel power amp to give similar capability)
:icon_lol: I think if you ask anyone who has heard my system, including you, it's not really lacking. There were some audible differences. If I were to describe it I would say yours had a little richer sound, but I certainly wouldn't say it was a glaring difference. :icon_wink:
I understand where you are on the Audison and it seems to be an awesome tool and piece. No argument there. Remember, however, you're dealing with a different set up with the source. I'd argue that you have more to compensate for with the OEM "head" unit as the source.
Typically, most audio enthusiasts would find little argument in that one of the biggest things to affect sound reproduction is the component at the end of the chain. The component that has to convert electrical signals into the sound waves we hear. That's why I'm considering changing speakers. Who knows, I may look into DSP in the future, but right now it's kind of hard to justify the expense. I even found myself going over to my bike and jamming a bit on the stereo trying to find fault to justify replacing the speakers.:icon_biggrin: It would help if one of them would just blow.
I am also looking at another possible change, but I'll keep that under my hat for now..batman-smilie.
I purchased mine through Amazon. Here is a link.
https://www.amazon.com/HSK-HI-ENERGY...ywords=hsk+130
Jimmy, wasn't directed at you. My professional opinion was for someone who hasn't bought an amp, and who also may not want to give up room for a subwoofer.
The reality is if someone wants to keep their factory controls for audio, they need the dsp to make up for the what you solved with a alternate head unit. Agreed? You can make it sound great without, as proven above, not absolute.
I measured 130+ db at my speakers without noticeable distortion. I would put a major prize bet that can't be done without active setup.
Ok, I misunderstood then.:icon_wink:
I don't remember exactly what the db measurement was. I did it a while back. I also did comparative db measurements with the original speakers and system and after the amp and speakers were changed. This was when I was still using the factory head unit. What I remember was how dramatic the difference was.
I don't think the depth is the limiting factor as their is only 4mm difference in depth between the 5.25" and the 6.5". The problem is in the total diameter that runs the full depth. The magnets and the supporting metal basket are huge. I was able to install the previous JBL 6.5" because they were shallow and the metal frame supporting the magnet sloped inward. The Hertz are almost the same diameter, like a cylinder. I can get pictures this weekend to give a visual because I know it's clear as mud.
Yeah, I'm sure you're right. I know with the Polk MM series 6.5" woofers it was a tight fit. Having to make a spacer approximately 1/4" thick I think it was. With the Polks there were 2 challenges. The outer diameter and the spacing around that and the basket clearance in depth. The depth challenge is those sides of the enclosure that come in at an angle. I had a few choice words during the fitting and installation of the Polks. :icon_wink:
An the Polk woofers have the neodymium magnets.:icon_rolleyes:
I tried this at the installer as well, the magnet is so wide there is no way it will fit. Based on my measurements, even if you remove the black plastic enclosure, the brace behind it would be in the way. The only other option would be to check Focal 6.5 to see if the magnet might fit. As long as you go with their top-tier line you should get the same or better output at the Hertz. The 5 1/4 are monsters - they are what the pros use on high-end boats and other installs that have limited space.
Here's a couple of shots for comparison. There's the JBL vs the Hertz 6.5 as well as another including the J&M. As you can see, the aluminum basket on the Hertz is huge.
Attachment 25282Attachment 25283
All-
I am in complete envy of the sound systems you created on your F6B! I just have a couple of quick questions and hoping some of you "Experts" can chime in.
I'm looking to install a simple amplified budget system and wondering if this will be a simple hook up.
Amp: Rockford Fosgate PBR300x2 - Should I be able to use my existing front speaker wiring and posi-tap wires to feed the amp with a high level input signal? I know the F6B has separate mids and tweeters, but I think the stock system output signal is full range left and right. Am I correct on this part?
Speakers: I'm thinking of using the JL Audio convertible 2-Way 5.25" and just leaving my factory tweeters in the grill unplugged while using the JL tweeters on the mid driver if there is no fitment issues with the stock grill.
I don't need a sub and just looking for louder mids and highs so that I can hear my system on the highway. I had this same amp with Hertz speakers on my Harley Street Glide and it was extremely loud and crystal clear. Rockford made a simple plug and play wire harness for Harley Davidson but I can tell the F6B is going to take a little more creativity and work.
appreciate any input or guidance if what I'm thinking will work.
Unfortunately, there is no plug and play. Wish the market was such that someone had come out with one. My experience ultimately had me seeking out the pre amp signal between the "Audio Unit" and the amp. I could not get satisfactory results from trying to adapt the amplifier output to use as signal for another amp. Not saying it can't be done, but my results were less than ideal. In the end , I chose to eliminate the factory system all together. As far as the factory speaker wiring, that too needs to be discarded or not used. Instead, running decent speaker wire of 14 or 12 awg.
Hey AnthonyGen, welcome to my thread! If I understand correctly, you want to use the existing speaker output from the OEM amp for an input into your Rockford Fosgate? Yes, you can, but you may not get the results you expect. I found the line-level output is out-of-spec (impedance is non-standard and/or the output voltage is below spec) which is why I recommend using a decent line driver or a DSP that can handle it.
The OEM tweeter has a cap to filter lower frequencies, so as long as you tap prior, it would work as inputs for your amp. I would highly recommend that you test this setup before doing a full install. Several folks have tried this common approach, but it resulted in a distorted output from the amp to new speakers. Others have tried using an inexpensive speaker level to line level, but it didn't result in much improvement for them. I was successful using a line-driver to get a better result, but I opted to go with the high-end ($$) solution of an amp with DSP instead. The Rockford's high-level input MAY work for you, but results may vary so test it first and if it doesn't sound like you would expect, try adding a line-driver to see if that improves your results, especially one that has a bass boost to make up for frequencies below 100Hz that are cut by the head unit.
The F6B's speaker gauge can't handle the output of an after-market amp, so make sure you run your own. Ideally 12 gauge, but 14 may work for short runs.
If anyone knows a manufacturer who will return a phone call, let me know. I'd love to get a harness designed for us! I hope this helps, and best of luck.
Cheers!
-Robert
Appreciate the quick replies.
So, from what I gather it's best to tap the signal from the head unit before the factory amp? I think the head unit it at the rear of the bike? I'll try to wire the amp off of the speaker leads in the fairing first, but going into this thinking it won't give the desired results.
I haven't purchased the Rockford amp yet, so maybe I look at some other compact amplifier options. I've installed some pretty decent systems in cars and even did a system on my prior Street Glide, but I'm finding this Wing is a bit of a different animal. Once I can figure out a clean audio signal from the factory system, I'll be able to figure the rest out of the install. I definitely agree on the wiring upgrade and I'm now thinking either Focal or Hertz speakers (5.25").
Again, not looking for a competition quality system, but something that has crystal clear mids and highs that I can hear at 80mph. I'm sure I'll get the fever later to add rear speakers and maybe a sub in one of the saddlebags. My other main focus is to retain my factory system controls.
Even with this higher end solution, you need some sort of subwoofer before anyone would say damn that sounds amazing. The Hertz speakers with the audison will give you exactly that crystal clear mids and highs you are wanting as long as you don't mind spending the money it takes to get there. Solutions on the other threads will get you a decent sounding system if you want to spend less. Frankly, I would never do anything less than the ARC amp with the Hertz speakers, but that is just my opinion. The Audison, or the less expensive other DSP amps I listed before is WELL worth it IMHO.
I can't get over how so many folks will spend coin on upgraded suspension or exhaust, but won't spend the coin to get a killer sound system. Now, this is coming from someone who has been out of work for a long time. If you can't afford it, that's a whole other discussion, and I am very much in that position now!
Cheers!
Robert,
I agree with you. IMHO a great touring motorcycle should have a great sound system and why so many neglect this part is just crazy to me. I'm looking to spend anywhere from $750 to $1000 and with doing the work myself I'm hoping to get a decent start. I wish I was closer to you or Jimmytee because I would gladly pay you to do my install if that were an option. My bike is still clean with only 16 miles on it. It's always more fun doing work on a new bike vs dealing with dirty pieces after a few thousand miles. Unfortunately, my schedule is 50-60 hours a week so I don't get as much time to do the fun stereo stuff.
Thanks again for a great thread here on sound systems.
Best!
Anthony
:yes: Thanks AnthonyGen! Several hundred hours went into getting this sound setup trying different parts/configurations and learning "how to be a mechanic." I've been a professional sound engineer for over thirty years, I've had the pleasure of working on over a hundred different house systems 20,000watt to line array systems in the largest venues in St.Louis, I've had the pleasure of mixing A-list bands/artists such as Blues Traveler, Joan Baez, Beastie Boys and thousands of local/national touring acts. I know sound, have an ear for tuning and doing installs. This was my first mobile audio experience, short of a few car installs when I was a teenager.
If anyone is in St.Louis, MO, or will be in town, let me know and we can meet up to hear for yourself. It is NOT my final result. The subwoofer setup is decent but not as good as it could be. Due to my financial situation, it will have to remain for now.
If anyone is interested in my doing the install, let's talk. I need income badly perhaps we could work something out. Otherwise, if anyone wants help or has questions during their install, send me a PM with their Phone # and let's talk.
cheers!
-Robert