Is anybody using an O-Ring as a throttle lock/cruise control? (ie:Catapillar part number 8M4991 silicone o-ring)
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Is anybody using an O-Ring as a throttle lock/cruise control? (ie:Catapillar part number 8M4991 silicone o-ring)
Had a couple Go Cruises on prior rides. Best bang for the buck as all I need is 'wrist break' every now and then. (Never use the cruise in my truck due to traffic, so it wouldn't be much different with a bike)
Had the Kury version of the throttle-meister. Pretty much a PITA to use.
Thought about the adjustable version of the go Cruise, but will stick with the 'original' and add my 'po boy anti-theft / adjustable tension device'
Run a small zip type through the large hole and down under the lower arm. Tighten for effect! LOL!
Bought a ten pack and used one briefly before purchasing the Adjustable Aluminum version of the Go-Cruise. I found that I can place a o-ring on both sides which acts as collars and stabilizes the GC.
A few pics for clarity!
Attachment 937Attachment 938
-------- is working on a plug and play electronic cruise,
he told me maybe 60 days out.
I got the Rostera cruise on my wife's F6 working. I did most everything the same as Pete and Barry in the early posts, so I appreciate their info. :bowdown: Here's a couple of things I did different:
1. I didn't use the relay switch for the brake "kill" switch and found that I could run a wire from the "Cold" pickup on the cruise to the back of the bike and get a true ground on the wire. The cold side coming from the rear wheel brake switch is on the front side of a solenoid under the seat, which didn't give me a full ground. If you pick up the wire that is after the solenoid that runs along the right frame, it will give you a true ground.
2. I also put on a clutch kill switch. (Part SW, CLUTCH CRUISE 35335-MG9-951) I ran a wire from the green wire (it's only about 10" long) that ends in the wire harness, to the clutch switch and then to a ground. Pretty simple and it kills the cruise control as soon as you touch the clutch. I think this is a little better then the over rev function.
3. I also bought the right controls (switches) off a wrecked bike and cannibalized the switches. When you do this, you have to swap the control body of the reverse switch and the cruise on/off switch. Careful when you pop these open, there's a little spring inside that loves to go flying. :lolup:
It was a lot of work, and not an easy add on, but I think my wife is going to love it.
Great job!!!!!!!
I am going to tackle mine this fall and may need to ask some questions if you don't mind.
Ask any questions that you want. That's what the forum is for.
Make sure that you have a factory service manual before you attempt this install.
I like the idea of the clutch switch as bstroh59 did, rather than the over-speed protection as I did. When I began this project (and believe me, it is a project), I wanted to invest as little $$ as possible, as I wasn't 100% sure that the install was going to be successful.
The Rostra cruise control switch is kind of small, so the Honda handle bar control would probably be the way to go if cost is not a factor. I will probably make these changes this winter. I have put several thousand miles on the bike with the Rostra control, so, at least I know the system works.
After 3 rides and a little over 400 miles........
1. First and foremost, the wife loves it!!!
2. I changed the gain to Extra Low from what Barry had. It still had a little bit of a surge, and changing this smoothed it out.
Taking a long trip next weekend, so we'll see how much it helps her on shoulder fatigue.
Regarding the brackets that need to be fabricated. Is there a template or diagram of some kind that can be used for the fabrication? I realize your guys have made this so if there is a price involved that would be understandable. If there is someone that can make one for a price that would be great as well!
Thanks.
Darryl
just installed the Brake Away Cruise.
Started a thread with some pics on the Accessories forum