I'd rather get married, again, than do this but it must be done
Printable View
I'd rather get married, again, than do this but it must be done
Enjoy. While you are in there, and if you remember, snap a picture, I'd like to see where the entry point of the air intake is, so I can run my endoscope camera in mine and investigate it's condition. thx
Will do, I'll do some video alsoQuote:
Originally Posted by SpencerPJ
Get a set of the Air Filter Intake Covers to install while the cowl is apart that much, or make your own out of mesh, etc.
Whoa! I never knew Wingstuff sold those intake covers. Gonna definitely get me a set.
Has anyone installed an air filter monitor gauge? It would remove the guesswork. They're inexpensive and common on large trucks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaSteve
Thanks for the heads up
F6Dave - Unless one buys a monitor that has an electronic switch to tell when it "trips", I suspect it would be difficult to visually check the condition of the monitor, given where the filter is. My old 6.0 Ford had the one with a switch, but would involve making a simple circuit to monitor it.
SpencerPJ - The intake horns go just under the fork shield. I've attached a photo of mine when I had it apart last. The horns are loose, since I had the cover off for the filter, but you can see where they go.
By the way, tax4free...if you've had any codes for the cam sensor or hard to start (spins over but does not fire, whether a code present or not), filter changes are a great time to change that camshaft position sensor, which is somewhat prone to failure on the GL1800s. I had a few of those instances, and replaced mine proactively the last time I did a filter change. Good luck!
Attachment 8373Attachment 8373
Thank You !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by rdbonds
I've seen some monitors with fittings and a hose allowing the gauge to be mounted remotely. They aren't very expensive, about the price of the filter. I'm tempted to try it.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdbonds
Thank you rd, will doQuote:
Originally Posted by rdbonds
Oh, and BTW, SpencerPJ, that photo shows the old filter condition, for reference. That one was in use just under 10K miles.
rd, do you have a link for the camshaft position sensor, I dont know why I am having a hard time.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdbonds
Here is a link to the write-up I did when I replaced my Camshaft Position Sensor
http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?1...or-Replacement
The only hard part is accessing/removing the disconnect (red plug), expect full use of vocabulary on this step :cus:
I will definitely use that info Willl, do you have a link to buy the sensor, I dont know why I'm having a hard time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Willl
Is this it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Willl
taxfree4 - Yep that is the one. You'll also need 11524-MCA-010, which is the gasket for the front cover.
Willl's write-up is excellent, btw. He's right...getting to the plug is a pain if you're doing it all from the front, BUT if you're already doing the air filter, the plug is right there and easy to get to.
Some folks doing it as-needed (i.e. a roadside fix) have reported just cutting the wires and crimping or soldering versus using the factory plug.
Into the Hellhole and back
https://youtube.com/shorts/Q8HTI0D1tr4?feature=share
Next, Crank position sensor
Woohoo! You're halfway there!
The filter looks like it served well. It's time. :)
Crankshaft Position Sensor is done, did that and the air filter today, 9 hours, only because I had to wait for UPS to deliver the parts.
https://youtube.com/shorts/KlFEcXTyGO8?feature=share
Good job to have done! Just picked up my 4th air filter for my F6. Not a hard job, just take the time to mark every bolt and screw, so no leftovers. One thing I did, was to "clip" the little piece of plastic, which locks together, the multi electronic plug, near and under the ignition area. Now it's easy to get that connecter apart. Was a real P.I.t.A. the 1st time, trying to get my hands in that tight spot. Big Bird has a good air filter change video on U tube.
Thanks jm, when you say clip did you cut it out because it seems pretty snug even b4 it snaps. That clip is hell sent for me and my fat fingersQuote:
Originally Posted by jm21ddd15
Its' time had definitely come, I.gave it a proper burial, I placed it in the K&N box before dumping it.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdbonds
Congrats on having it all done! Woohoo!
My favorite quote from the cam sensor video: "And I thought the AIR FILTER, was a pain in the ass" :crackup:
correct. That clip is not needed to hold the connecters together. Sure makes the process easier without the clip.Quote:
Originally Posted by taxfree4
Mike, you'll definitely feel the bike breathing better with that new filter. Why did you go with the K&N though, that's the washable. reusable filter? Did you have to pre-treat it with the K&N air filter oil?
Getting to that air filter can be a PITA. IIRC, my biggest problem that I had was with the two connectors that attached to the control unit that sits right over the top cover of that air filter housing (item 24 below). For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how to pop off one of the connectors,, so I had to tie that control unit box back as best as I could, so I could remove the air filter cover.
https://i.postimg.cc/4xsLqZsM/Capture.jpg
In a month or so, I'm changing out my coolant, replacing my rear brake pads (and possible the fronts) and flushing the brake fluid system and clutch, as well as draining and refilling my final drive. I'll do my air filter next year.
I used the K&N on the 2013 and was very satisfied with it. It comes pre-oiled. I won't reuse it first because they say they did it to reduce landfill and that PC bullshit is just that, second, if I'm going to do all that work, doing open heart surgery, to get to it, for $55 I'd rather have a brand new one every time. You can see an immediate difference in the construction between the OEM and the K&N. Also, no need for the gasket with the K&N it's built into the mold. So between the Torq Loopz and the filter she should be breathing easy, more air more fuel, etc. K&N says 50% more air, probably over exaggerating but even if it's 25-30% ot's definitely worth the price of the filter. Will, you're talking about that rectangular box on the port side of the filter housing, correct? If that's it there is a rubber band in between those connectors that clips on the bottom that holds the whole unit in place. Once you unhook the band you can unseat the whole unit and it falls away down to the radio/aux control unit, if that's the one you're talking about. I call this job "Revenge of Hiroshima" and the Crank Sensor Control "Revenge of Nagasaki"Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
I'll do that before the next air filter change, if I remember.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm21ddd15
I would have been much more "colorful" if I hadn't removed that coil pack, my hand would have never gotten in there and where do you get a midget mechanic on short notice, no pun intended.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdbonds