Printable View
I will need tires replaced this fall. I've read that I should also change valve stems, they are a leaking source? Mine now are 90 degree bent style, look brass. Anyways, I thought I'd buy the best and have the tire shop install with replacement tires. Any recommendations on upper end valve stems?
For your 2013 F6b, it looks like this is the OEM 90 degree valve stem -
VALVE, RIM (BS)
44753-MCA-003 In Stock$7.75
$7.57
Mine is still the original. If it were a full rubber unit I'd have long since replaced it. It just has the one seal. I'm a bit surprised that they don't seem to sell a "rebuild" kit with the o ring and valve stem itself...
I installed these on my F6B years ago. Had to grind down and repaint the little nub on each wheel though. Running Steelmate TPMS sensors on them now.
No leaks in 7 years.
https://wingstuff.com/products/37222...or-fobo-2-tpms
Yep. Had FOBO on my Valk for several years ... approx. 35k. Then transferred them to my F6B 50k ago. No leaks. No hassels. AND yes the T-Valve is a must!Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
I run metal stems with TireGard TPMS caps. They look big but only weigh .4 oz.
http://dchealy.com/valk/tpms3.jpg
I've had the same FOBO "T" valve stems for the last two sets of tires (25K-ish). Now, on the third set, and I'm now adding air maybe every couple of hundred miles. Curious to see how they do on the next tire change.
Check them with soapy water. Next time you have tires installed, give the locking nuts a little tweak on the inside of the wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaSteve
I’ve been using the Show Chrome 90% for over a 114,000 miles with no problems.
There are 2 types of the 90 degree metal stems like I use. Some have a pair of nuts on the inside of the wheel, while the others have a single nut on the outside like the one shown below. The ones with the outside nut can be tightened without removing the tire, while tightening the inside nuts requires tire removal. Obviously you would prefer the outside nut if a leak develops.
http://dchealy.com/valk/tpms3.jpg
Old Valkyries use the same type of valve stems as the F6B. It's a metal stem with a 90 degree rubber elbow, and a plastic clip to keep the elbow from flexing. Full Wings use a different, all metal valve stem with a TPMS sender on the inside of the rim, similar to automotive TPMS.
I still own 2 Valkyries and this subject often gets raised on the VRCC board. Keep these two things in mind if you still use the OEM rubber/metal valve stems:
1. If you lose the plastic clip, centrifugal force will cause the rubber elbow to flex and a leak will develop quickly.
2. Like most tire valves, the rubber deteriorates over time and will eventually leak. This happened to me 300 miles from home. Replacing a valve stem on the road is MUCH more difficult than plugging a puncture. After that I switched to metal valve stems.
Ya, I thing I'm going to get some off show chrome. I don't plan to do the tpms, and i agree with replacing. I'll probably take the clips off so the tire shop doesn't loose them, lol. See any issue with these?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...LF2W5ZWB&psc=1
Those are what I use. They work great with no problems whatsoever.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpencerPJ
Punctures are pretty rare, and usually cause a slow leak, so TPMS is hardly a 'must have' item. It is nice that they warn you early. But in nearly 700,000 miles of riding I've only had to repair 3 tires at the roadside. Those were all decades ago, with tube type tires that lost air very quickly. A tubeless 'blowout' is virtually unheard of.
One thing about TPMS can be a bit scary: they show how hot that rear tire gets. Recently leaving Sturgis my rear was nearing 125 degrees. No wonder they don't last very long!
http://dchealy.com/valk/tpmshot.jpg