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Saw this video:
https://youtu.be/5YxMON28lGk
and it made me curious about the application while I'm doing an oil/filter change anyway. Not that there is any trouble starting it, I figured it would be good for what the video is talking about in regards to build up. Has/does anyone use this and do you recommend it.
Be careful, it might be ok, but it might loosen that one bit of crude that makes your wing and oil dripper. Personally, I am not a fan. I know old hot rodders that have used it, along with other engine treatments, mixed outcomes.
Thank you Spence. I don't know why I never heard of it or maybe just have a mental block on itQuote:
Originally Posted by SpencerPJ
I use it as a gas treatment and stabilizer. It's been around,
Your bike has had Seafoam as a stabilizer every winter, and every few tanks of gas. Never hurt anything that I know of. Never used it in an oil change.
While everyone is free to try what they like, of course, I've always been a bit wary of any oil additives, especially in a bike with a wet clutch. In my meager experience, regular oil changes with a good quality (properly rated) oil is sufficient to prevent oil-related issues.
Additives and oils that are not rated for wet clutches might work for some, but I am not keen to risk it.
Cheers!
I should have known you did itQuote:
Originally Posted by wjduke
Good enough, thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by rdbonds
Another option is Chevron Techron. I use it in my older carbureted bikes if they sit for a while.
To be clear, I don't see any concern with using it for fuel treatment as others have suggested though. :)
SeaFoam is the premier elixir of fuel treatments. I highly, highly recommend it.
Have you ever used it right before an oil change, as in the video, to get that muck out.Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
Nope. I've only used it for gas stabilization and fuel system cleaning. Most commonly used oils these days have detergents in them, so they keep your engine innards pretty clean.
Racing oils on the other hand do not.
You are asking for trouble using that on the clutch plates. As a fuel stabilizer it is great.Good luck.
Seafoam contains mineral oil, naphtha, and isopropyl alcohol. I don't think I'll be adding that to my oil.
As for fuel, I used to have problems with ethanol absorbing water in the carb bowls and tanks of engines that sat around for a while. Now I'm lucky to have ethanol free gas available a mile from my place, so I run that in all my bikes and mowers. If I ever need a fuel system cleaner I use Techron.
My companies mechanics use SeaFoam on all the fleet cars and trucks right before preforming an oil change. Their recommendation to me was to add an ounce or two to the oil, then ride just long enough and fast enough to go through all the gears. Enough to get cleaner around to all the parts in a warm engine. Then to drain the oil and change. (Also, I drain for several hours. With the drain plug OUT, I get on the bike ever so often and shake it side to side and bounce on the springs to get another 1/2 cup of oil out.)
Someone here on the site posted that adding SeaFoam was a waste of money since the cleaner isn't there long enough to do anything AND a good oil already has additives that clean the engine. I stopped using it in the motor but I did just buy my "once yearly" bottle of SeaFoam/Berrymans/(Fill in the Blank Additive) and added half to the F6B at fill up and the rest to my Ford Pickup.
It would be interesting to run an oil analysis before and after using the stuff to see if it makes any difference. Otherwise it's just speculation.
I'm planning on doing something similar. I've been using Bosch oil filters on my F6B, but they've become difficult to find around here. So at my last change I tried a Walmart Super Tech filter. I had the oil analyzed and will do the same at the next change. If the results are similar I'll stick with the much less expensive Super Tech filters. These get good reviews and are apparently made by Champion, who also makes Mobil 1 filters.
I'm still using the Honda OEM filters on mine. They sure have gotten pricey though; they're like $14.95 on Wingstuff.comQuote:
Originally Posted by F6Dave
i did use Rotella on my last oil change though. I usually use the Honda synthetic.
Seafoam does not have the correct cleaners to be used as an oil flush just before an oil change.
Just watched a few videos on the subject. It didnt hurt anything but it didnt work at all.
Thanks again for the inputQuote:
Originally Posted by rdbonds
Noted, thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by tenxxx
Not going to chance it, as we know Youtube is full of a lot of bullshit. I use BND gas additive so I'll just leave well enough alone.
Which weight of Rotella did you use, and did you like it? I'm curious because I've heard comments about clunky shifting with the 5W-40. I've thought about switching because the T6 5W-40 and 15W-40 are JASO MA/MA2 certified, which Honda specifies for our bikes. I don't know of any other diesel or automotive oils that meet those standards, including the Mobil 1 I'm using.Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
Switching may not be an option these days as Rotella is in short supply. Last week the local Walmart had some on the shelves for the first time in months, but it quickly disappeared.
I used Rotella T6 5w40. Shifting seems normal to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by F6Dave
Okay, I add to the mix, I have been using this, works on my Ironbutt rides has no issues, is delivered to my door, and at a good price.
Change oil every 5K miles on principal, regardless of brands I have used prior.
5K is just cheap insurance.
View Larger Image 1
Kirkland Signature Heavy Duty Diesel 15W-40 Motor Oil 1-Gallon, 3-pack
Item 1448220
Your Price39.99$
Price Per GALLON: $13.33
Shipping & Handling Included*
Limit 6 Cases Per Member
Features:
3-1 Gallon (3.78L) Bottles
SAE 15W-40 CK-4 Diesel Engine Oil
Increased Wear Protection
Better Oxidation Control
Highly Shear Stable Formulation
I used Rotella T-6 15-40 prior to the last few changes, do not detect any difference between them, no shifting issues, or noise, etc.
Buy online, ships free to your local Walmart store, they have plenty.Quote:
Originally Posted by F6Dave
So I put T6, 15/40 in mine last fall, feel like I have a slight tick now. I bought some Gn4 Honda dino oil, plan to exchange soon just for a test.
GN4 is good oil, but you should just now stay with synthetic. See if you can return the GN4...Quote:
Originally Posted by SpencerPJ
I have no idea the previous oil type history. I only have 2k on the Rotella, do you thing that would be an issue? I have 24k on my 2013Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
You can put in the more free flowing GN4 (10w30) and see if that alleviates the perceived tick you are hearing. As I mentioned earlier, I'm running 5w40 Rotella, not 15w40.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpencerPJ
I meant to say that you should stay with a synthetic since that oil's properties exceed dino oil for longevity; such as shear life and contaminant suspension.
Personally,, I replace one quart of oil (any kind) with a quart of Duralube every other oil change.
I put that sh*t in everything that needs oil. I think the used oil even looks cleaner.
I'm also not 100% sure it's not an injector I hear ticking. I'll change it in the next couple weeks and report back.Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
Very posable if ya run OEM exhaust or a quite exhaust system. I know when my Dr. Jekill & Mr. Hyde exhaust system is closed I can hear my fuel injectors tick.Quote:
Originally Posted by SpencerPJ