What benefits if any would I get by putting on Torque loops and keeping the (STOCK) Exhaust on.
Printable View
What benefits if any would I get by putting on Torque loops and keeping the (STOCK) Exhaust on.
Most of if not all has been discussed in other threads....
http://hondaf6b.com/search.php?searchid=788990
It's not just u heavvyduty it didn't work for me either, I was wondering what it would do to my warranty, hear the Honda engineers designed these but the EPA made them go with the other
Installing my Torq Loopz this week. I hope for a few benefits. Expecting better flow, better fuel economy, lighter weight and raspier sound. Hope it's worth the cost and time. I'll give updates.
What you're expecting is exactly what you should get. You may already know but pay special attention to sealing the joint between the Loopz and headers and installing the clamps so they don't interfere with the lower covers. Other than that, the install should go smoothly.
Finished the install. It's raining too much to give it a good test drive. Sound is a bit deeper at all rpm levels, but doesn't qualify as a "loader pipes saves lives" mod. One issue is that the stop position should be determined by first confirming where the center stand aligns to the side cover. In my case, is is so of center that it misses the rubber stop.
The left pipe was not built as accurately as the right side. Out of the box the top bracket was bent at an angle to give a proper angle of the loops and shield brackets. It fit well enough to get the job done but I see this has not the issue. Right side was perfect. Looking back at the rubber stop picture in the instructions, I see that the hole is drilled off set to the front.
Unless you do a LOT of trimming on the rubber stop, it will pretty much fill the entire indentation on the heat shield. I do notice the centerstand resting on the front third of the rubber stop so you may be right about it being biased toward the front. Still, with the size of the stop, it shouldn't be a problem. OTOH, if your centerstand is missing the indentation altogether, that's a problem.
Here is how my center stand bump stop looks installed once I trimmed a tad off the outer edge of the back side that touches to conform to the curvature of the heat shield. I used a silicone spray lube then a twisting motion to get it to fit in the hole.
Attachment 18221
I then painted the heat shields a hi-temp flat black to match the "Dr. Jekill & Mr. Hyde" exhaust.
Attachment 3635
My first driving impressions with the loopz are mixed. First day without rain, but roads still puddled so cannot run too hard. Drove about 20 miles back roads.
First 10 miles were bad. The bike had a very bad smell and the bike redlined at about 5K rather than 6k. Stopped and filled with gas. Started to redline as normal the bad smell lessened.
The drone never bothered me, but it is gone. The exhaust is quieter during normal acceleration and cruising. I now hear more tire, wind and alternator noise.
On hard acceleration, the exhaust is louder with a deeper/raspier tone. Likely know one else would notice the difference. Will find out tomorrow when I ride with a few hundred guys...mostly Harley and riders.
Sure hope the loopz improve power and fuel economy. I did one 5th gear test run 50 to 80 mph and was not impressed. Hopefully the computer still needs time to recalibrate.
An odd side issue is the the up shifts were hanging (not working) for the first 15 miles. For example, I would shift up to 2nd then have to shift back down to get to 2nd and 3rd. This happened at all the gears. This has never happened before. Perhaps the computer has control over shifts. Seemed to shift fine the lat five miles.
Still waiting on your jury. It is not so much the money as it is the job of installing them that has me on the fence. Of course you are about 100 miles away and I am wondering if you can be hired "ccsmiley" Seriously, I am not sure I want to jump on this unless it has significant benefits.
Don't see myself ever doing this install again....so I must keep the bike for the rest of my like.
Too each his own on exhaust changes and what ever makes one happy...I personally cannot see the sense and value in spending huge bucks and a major install headache just to, "hopefully" gain a couple of HP and sound...I am perfectly happy with my Cobra's (including a slight drone at times) as are those, I am sure, who have other exhausts and Torq Loopz. JMHO
Steve--I agree with you that an ECU reset is a very good idea when making exhaust changes and definitely when adding Loopz. Instructions for that are what you mentioned above but there are another steps recommended. Here is the procedure I used:
- Make sure the engine is cold and has sat for at least 5 hours, overnight is best
- Remove the ground (black) cable from the battery
- Let the bike sit for at least 30 minutes
- Re-attach the ground to the battery
- Start the engine, but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE
- Allow the bike to idle until the engine warms up and you hear the radiator fans turn on
- After the fans turn off, turn off the ignition
- Restart the bike and enjoy the ride
Sounds like you enjoyed installing the Loopz about as much as I did. I had to do mine twice for a couple of reasons. First, I wasn't careful enough about the orientation of the clamps and found they interfered with the lower panels. And, second, I wound up with leaks at the first joints between the manifolds and Loopz. The second time around, I doubled up on the gaskets and used real muffler joint sealer and that took care of that! If you're smelling any exhaust, especially when you're sitting still, you need to check for leaks.
It may be paint burning off. The stove paint was rubbed off, said I painted with brake rotor paint. Realized last night that it may not be high temperature enough. Seems to be leak free.
Will try the reset before I leave this morning.
Did the reset as described about. Ran and shifted as it should. I noticed more power. My wife also noticed more power and was caught off guard, holding on tight. I'll give a report on mileage in the near future.
Has anybody ever just replaced the gap where the CATS are with a simple straight pipe instead of the loops? What are the benefits of the loops?
I don't see a simple pipe working because of a need for the center support, muffler cover support attachment point as well as the front header pipe shield mounting points.
I've been trying to research these pipes on the internet and saw a post saying that these pipes are problematic by working loose and leaking. One guy gave feedback stating that after a year, he would never recommend you to get these unless you like to remove your plastic a lot and re-tighten the clamps. Any of you on here experiencing this issue?
I'm not bashing these pipes, just trying to get feedback.
Pap, here's my take on that...based on my experience, I can see how this is a potential trouble spot for the Loopz. As a result, I would recommend taking extra measures to insure against it. There are two things I've done and would suggest to others considering this mod. First, I doubled up on the sealing gaskets (you could get by with 1 1/2 gaskets on each side). I believe the supplied gaskets are shorter than they should be so I requested extra gaskets to add to that. Second, I don't particularly like the gasket maker supplied with the kit. After a short time of running, that stuff literally turns to dust. As a result, the second thing I did was to substitute real muffler gasket sealer which I purchased at the auto parts store. I understand some people use high temp silicone which would probably be fine as well. I have a feeling however, that any future disassembly would be more difficult with that. After taking these steps, I have had no further problems with leakage and doubt I ever will.
Clamps can be placed in such a way that they are easily reached with all covers in place.
Nope, I just used the OEM gaskets, but paid critical attention to their placement on the male end of the exhaust header & mufflers as they slipped into the Loops and placement of the clamps. I also went through a heat cycle (started engine with all plastic off) then re-torqued all clamps after cool down.
I have not had any leaks nor has anything come loose after about 10k miles on them now. I set all my clamps so I could also reach & tighten them without removing any plastic in case there was anything leaking or loosening up, which thankfully has not happened.:icon_biggrin:
I must also note that I did switched out and used a more robust clamp on the muffler end, they were the ones that came with my Jekill & Hyde mufflers, but I had no problems with the OEM clamps before I installed the Jekill & Hyde system, I just wanted to use their clamp on their mufflers.
Attachment 19729
Thanks BigLry!
My loops showed up today. Taking notes now, was wondering how long to plan for install. I had all the lower tins off before so I am ok with that part, just wondering about headers and crash bars, anything there to watch for?? I read and will be gentle with O2 sensor and wire. Should all go ok as far as I can see.
Just take your time being especially careful how you seal that first joint. If Jimmy is still including gasket maker instead of muffler sealer, I would recommend buying some muffler sealer. Be very careful not to let the supplied gasket push in too far. You want that gasket flush with the edge. Also, be careful with the orientation of the clamps. If you don't install them right, you won't be able to fit the lower header covers back on. Another tip is to coat the rubber boots on the heat shields with silicone grease. That should help them slide back in place more easily. Good luck!
Thanks Ken, I will watch out for first joint, they sent gaskets with some sealer on them, but I will pick up joint sealer to make sure.
WHAT TYPE OF LIFT DID YOU NEED TO DO THE INSTALL?