I know the manual calls for 10/30 with no graphite or molybdenum. So what do you use? I wanna change mine tonight or tomorrow for the ride out, already have the OEM filters. A lot of my other Japanese sportbike friends run and swear by Rotella T6.
Printable View
I know the manual calls for 10/30 with no graphite or molybdenum. So what do you use? I wanna change mine tonight or tomorrow for the ride out, already have the OEM filters. A lot of my other Japanese sportbike friends run and swear by Rotella T6.
Honda GN4 10w-40
But do a search... lot of past posts on oil; on this forum. I have used Shell Rotella T6 before in my VTX long ago; and I was using it in my past Triumph Rocket 3, but I lost two cam lobes due to it. Although I had custom cams installed in it by Carpenter Racing and unknown to me; Shell reduced the ZDDP level in that oil.
Flat tappet cam type engines need more zinc. I don't trust Shell Rotella T6 anymore; after that expensive little fiasco...
Attachment 3362Attachment 3363 Once you have enough miles to start using Synthetic. Check your manual or perhaps someone will chime in with that information. Way smoother shifts...........................Dickie:039:
They are using the "right" oil! Follow their suite and you'll be fine!Quote:
Originally Posted by Redlinez
I know it also says JASO T 903 standard MA. No API SH or higher that say "energy conserving" or "resource conserving". I'm at about 1800 miles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redlinez
With that low mileage.. I would wait before running a synthetic. Just my personal opinion.
I'm going to change out at the initial 4K mark on mine... no drama with this bike for once. Should be close once I get back from Franklin.
Are there any good options that are available at the W or Advance Auto? Motorcycle dealers are too far for me and Cycle Gear has crazy expensive oils.
Have you thought about getting your oil shipped from Amazon since the local sources aren't too local? I've done it because I couldn't get the brand I wanted locally.
I was kind of thinking I should do it before I ride out to the rally Friday. Our Walmarts have the Rotella and some expensive Castrol motorcycle oil I believe.
You can use a synthetic. The rings are seated and the cams run in. I use Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W/40.
Just bought 1 gallon of Rotella T6 at Wally World for $19.57 which is cheap for synthetic oil:icon_wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by Redlinez
^ Just bought the exact same thing for the exact same price! I was just wondering if I ever had an engine warranty issue if they'd have issue with 5/40 since it calls for 10/30. It does meet the other requirements though. I've never seen one oil so widely used and praised though.
Keeping it simple...use any JASO MA oil in the appropriate viscosity range and you'll be fine. Like many others, I'm currently using T6 and the bike is running and shifting better than ever.
BND Automotive, Brian uses a 12.5 W 35 viscosity.
Who determined that the Rotella T6 oil had anything to do with the cam lobe failures...Not doubting, just find it kind of hard to believe that the oil was the cause...Seems strange that only two lobes went bad???.... Maybe so, but?????Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
Bob at Carpenter Racing. And the company that he uses to re-grind the cams for the 240 HP package I had installed in my Rocket. All the lobes were showing accelerated wear; but two of them were toast.... hence the pronounced "tapping" i was getting after my oil change with Rotella T6.Quote:
Originally Posted by opas ride
Afterwards on his recommendation; I went to Amsoil Heavy Duty Marine and Diesel Synthetic. No issues at all regarding cam lobe wear thereafter...
However.... do not run that oil in your F6B's.... it has friction modifiers in it. Wasn't an issue for my Rocket since the clutch and springs were beefed up for the 240hp kit.
Again I must question the statement of friction modifiers in Rotella T6 Synthetic...Many on this board and the GW site have used this oil without issue for thousands of miles...A previous post a few months ago showed that NO friction modifiers are in Rotella T6Syn...The Shell website itself does not list any kind of friction modifiers in the oil and claims it is approved by JASO for 4 stroke motorcycles...I just switched to it this last change and so far it works for me....Perhaps down the road it may be a different story, but for now I will continue to use it.....Regards and ride safe.....Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
Quote:
Originally Posted by opas ride
I believe that willtill was referring to the Amsoil Synthetic as having friction modifiers not the Shell Oil :cheers:
Correct. Comprehension is key... opas ride. :icon_mrgreen:Quote:
Originally Posted by Willl
...say, don't I know your screen name from the Vision-Riders Forum? :icon_wink:
This is some great info on Rotella, a "Heavy Duty" oil which is second to none IMHO:icon_wink:
http://hondaf6b.com/showthread.php?5...Specifications
Yes, I used to ride a Victory Vision Tour which was a great bike....BTW, with 3 college degree's, I can comprehend just fine....Obviously, I mis-read the post as many others have done on occasion....Should have read more carefully.....Regards and I am still an active member of the VMC and ride with several other Victory riders when I can....Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
Willtill...I've seen guys with 400+ hp turbo busa's running T6 with no problems. Diesel trucks have more hp than 240. I'd have to say oil was fine...valve train not so good.
HP has nothing to do with the problem I had. Engine design (specifically custom cams on a flat tappet engine) is what is at issue here; with that T6 oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by sandragggen
Hey; I have no problems with y'all using that oil in an unmodified engine. Just be concerned if you introduce it into a reworked head.
I've been stung by that oil once... it leaves me in a negative view about it.... :icon_rolleyes:
Guys , Bob Carpenter is one of THE premier engine builders in the country. He is resonsible for the fastest R3 Triumphs on the planet plus some of the fastest sportbikes in the world. If Carpenter says there is a problem in certain applications then I for one would have to believe it. He wouldn't say it if it wasn't so. Doesn't mean you can't use it but it may not be appropriate for all applications. Like I said before , what applies to one vehicle rarely applies to others.
I have ran Rotella in many different bikes including GL1500-1800. IMHO the 5w40 is a little low or thin in heat & hard engine breaking. Once on a trip from IL to Ca ridding in July heat and a lot of engine breaking my 06 GL 1800 used over a quart of oil. I checked the oil level when I started home in Ca and it was between the marks. When I got home it was barely showing on the dip stick. Not good and since I have stayed with 15w40 Dino. My foot could never say T6 shifted better. Again not wanting to start an oil war, and as pointed out I know of no engine failures related to the weight and brand of oil you choose but I think my experience is worth noting.
I ran Rotella synthetic in my Valkyrie but felt in the Florida summers I could hear more valve and engine noise than normal. On the advice of my mechanic tried Mobil Delvac. It comes in 15-40 and on my Valkmc it reduced engine noise when she was hot. Since then I have used it in my C-14, Wing and now my 6. I also used it in my Jeep I recently sold with 100k on it. Changed the oil every 5k and never added any between changes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug44
I'll look for that Mobil Delvac 15-40. Does is carry the MA rating?
Major Truck Stops and possibly Wally World will have the Mobil Delvac.......not sure about the MA rating! Like Rotell, its a Heavy Duty Diesel Oil:shhh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Redlinez
Here's the specs from Mobil's Web Site!
http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LEV...VDuSwpEOAkHlw-
:yes:Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter
Me too.
I use Honda full synthetic oil in the red bottle. That way if there are any issues they can't say I used the wrong oil. It is double the price of Rotello but I'm OK with that.