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...into a body panel of your motorcycle, and then discovered that even after careful thought, measuring and planning, the accessory that you were going to install in it... doesn't fit? :shhh:
:banghead: :icon_doh: :banghead: :icon_doh: :banghead: :icon_doh: :banghead: :icon_doh:
Don't make me come there and fix your schiznit.
These folks have good plugs.
http://www.widgetco.com/hole-plugs?g...FYsvgQoddeAGAQ
Sorry to hear of your misfortune, you can always drill one on the other side and put a set of lights on it that nobody else has. Quick fix for an already unfortunate situation. Can I ask what you were about to install on your ride?Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
Ya Will....please share your screw up with us....lolQuote:
Originally Posted by seadog
Just about got my bike put back together, and wanted get the Gerbing power outlet mounted somewhere in front of me. Looked FOREVER for the perfect location and THOUGHT I found it:
http://i66.tinypic.com/4raxe1.jpg
The horror discovered, after I drilled the hole; was that the Gerbing power cable could not be routed (as I had previously thought possible) through the underlying gas tank spill tray structure underneath. I had eyeballed this placement every which way, and though it was possible.
There is the gas tank cover's hinge under there too... but the cable could be routed well enough to avoid it's operation.
I could compromise the integrity of the gas tank catch tray by drilling a hole in the side of it; for the cable to route through... but elect not to do that. :nono:
For now I just have another Gerbing power lead exiting out from the left side of the frame in front of me. I still could drill another hole ON THE SIDE of the gas tank cap cover WHICH WOULD allow enough clearance for the cable underneath to be routed (since that area is not in the gas tank spill tray area) ...but I am really not happy about having another hole off to the side of the gas cap cover.
Thanks for the link Stro... regarding the hole caps; I just need one. It would cost .18 cents but shipping is $3.95 Keerist.... :icon_lol: I'll check locally or maybe just get a nice sticker/decal to put over the hole for now.
Done something like that before,, me,, YUP a few times.Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
At least it is centered and a plug won't look out of place, and $4 is a pretty cheap screw up fix.
If it helps, this is what I did for the Gerbing gear. The Gas Cap door is about $25 if I decide to pull the wiring for a new bike.
If anyone ever see's my bike in person, you'll find a mistake covered area too. The sticker on the gas cover. When I removed it, I used my fingernail because I was too lazy to do it right. I now have an emblem covering that screw up.
How did you route the power plug cables out from the gas tank spill tray structure underneath? Did you drill holes through the sides of that interior structure for the power cables underneath?Quote:
Originally Posted by DMAGOLDRDR
Let me get this right you've got hot wires going to an area where your regularly spilling gas?? Sounds to me like a planned terrorist attack. :nono:
I would not be able to drill in to the painted plastic of my bike without crying the whole time. I was scared enough when I had to take the saddle bags apart to put the passenger backrest on.
Yes... it's like measure 10 times and then drill once... still did not result in favorable expectations in my case. I'm not giving up though... need to either continue to pursue it before I decide to put that seat back on; or bag it and call it a day. Out of all the disassembly I recently did to my bike... I dread reinstalling the seat the most, even with the tapered seat mounting bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by pitcherd
Yes... that can be a little nerving. I thought of that. But the connection is made outside of that area... the power leads themselves are well insulated underneath in that area. And I haven't (yet) spilled any gas in there... :shhh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Penn
I don't see a problem with drilling a hole in the gas tank catch tray. Just my .02.Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
If I remember, I was able to run the wires up inside the fuel tray without cutting, but the job was done when I had the bike torn down for the Heated Grip install so all the covers were off the bike.
As for the 12 volts in the Fuel Cap area, I see no problem.
1) all electrical connections under the cover are heat shrink sealed and no reason to spark as they are mounted to a plastic cover.
2) the bike is never fueled while running nor am I ever sitting on the seat which means the gear gets disconnected when I get off and the ignition is always off.
3) Seldom do I ever feel the need to top the tank off or try to get ever drop in, so spillage is basically non existent.
4) Due to the nature of the "hardwired" Gerbing Controllers that I have, when power is shut off (as with turn off the ignition) when the ignition is turned back on the Controllers have to be shut off and turned back on before power is sent to the jack. So there is no power at the jack when I plug in the gear until I turn on the Controller once the bike is running.
BUT I do understand your point and actually spent much time over-thinking the install.
Plug it and call it a day
Buy a new panel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg O
Thanks Sto! I bookmarked this site for future screwups.Quote:
Originally Posted by stroguy
Just thought I'd throw my $.02 in and share the approach i took…found this "heavy duty" style connector with spring loaded weather proof cover. Installation was easy! Drilled hole into left side panel (a little less conspicuous) and wired up directly to the battery. The connector from my heated gear (I use a wireless setup for jacket and gloves requiring only one power connection for both) drops down from the left, front side of the jacked, drapes down the left side of the seat (just inside of my left thigh) and into the power connection. Works like a champ!
This is my approach, works well for heated clothes or battery tender.
WillQuote:
Originally Posted by willtill
I know we have all tried everything to make installing our seat easier, but have you
tried putting a screw driver in all the holes first to line up all the bolts.
Maybe mine is just easier than yours.
shortleg
Yes, I've done that before...Quote:
Originally Posted by shortleg0521
Hi from Oz try grinding a point on the bolts they will self centre.
... with a 3/8" finishing hole plug from Lowes. 2ea for $1.09 So that leaves me an extra for my next future blunder... :icon_doh:
http://i66.tinypic.com/35irr5w.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMAGOLDRDR
I have an extra panel ( the one on the right ) if anyone needs it !!!
Those who know would notice, no one else.Quote:
Originally Posted by willtill
I have an extra 1" ball that you could use to mount a Ram mount there. Let me know and I will send it out to you. The ball would mount with a 10/24 bolt from below, then you need to get the arm and XMount or other desired mount. Maybe a camera facing up to film you or to the side for a countryside video.
Thanks Stro but not needed (and would'nt work at that spot). The gas cap door would not be able to open.... whatever is mounted there needs to be very flat. The Gerbing power connector was flush enough when installed on the surface (with it's protective cap).Quote:
Originally Posted by stroguy
I just ordered the permanent controller and ports for my gear. Does the controller still hook directly into the battery? I want to make sure that it is not powered when the key is off.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMAGOLDRDR
Thanks for any insight on this. I really like the looks of your setup.
Bill
Thanks, yes you go straight to the battery so it stays live all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by billsim
Can I ask why you didn't just drill a hole in one of the blank panels below the preset buttons? What do people usually put where those covers are? :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow rex
I did not use those because one for lower cowl lights and the other hazard lights switch,
and some day when I put the cruise on it I will move the hazard sw to that location.
I screwed up my front garnish trying to remove the badging. It cost me about $250 for that mistake. A replacement for you is much less expensive.
Attachment 25241
From Florida Boys - What Gerbing???????:lolup::clap2::icon_lol:'surfing':be ach::th_sunbathe::bronze07:
Survival - for us up here. :shhh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fla_rider