Coupler vs. the Freedom Pivot (Ball)

OK, folks. Question for y'all with experience in hauling trailers on a motorcycle. Everywhere I look, I see many recommendations for flexing the connection between the m'bike and the trailer. Two options. One is the swivel coupler from only one place on the Internet that I can find, and the second is this "movable ball" from these guys:
http://theusatrailerstore.com/produc...all-hitch.html

I have to buy the 2.5" coupler (if I can find it) and put that on the trailer. Or else I can spend $50 and get this ball instead.

What's your thinking if it were you?

By the way, the hitch came today, and it ROCKS... aircraft aluminum and looks like a fairly easy install--which I will do when I get the wiring harness--or BUILD one. They want $125 BUX for four wires, four couplings, and one link to the four-pin connector on the trailer. What a HUGE ripoff.

OH, the Red Queen turned over 8,270 miles this past weekend. Still smiling!

The “trick” to the hook up is the long shank on the ball…. a shorter shank will put you in the bushes……I like the Bushtec and that is the only one I have pulled behind a MCY….. that one is nice!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Steve 0080

... a shorter shank will put you in the bushes……

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You mean I can run myself off the road, or is that a colloquialism I don't kapiche? Need sum he'p here....:icon_redface:

This is the swivel I use. But I did pull the trailer w/out it for quite a few yrs.

http://www.motorcycletrailerstore.co...ex&cPath=65_73

As far a wiring goes, I used Kuryakyn #7676 Isolator and #3234 acc harness.
Isolator protects bike electrical system from any problems that trailer lights may cause. It uses Bike battery power to power lights on trailer, as opposed to using bike lighting circuit to do so.
The #3234 harness is plug in harness that picks up brake, tail, and turn signal feeds for the Isolator. Prevents you from having to physically tap into these wires. Makes it plug and play.

Most cycle trailers used a 5 pin setup ( brake, L turn, R turn, tail, and ground). Brake and turn lights are separate, (just as they are on a bike) as opposed to cars. Your trailer may differ. This is the easiest to wire.

As far as Rivco Hitch (which I have on mine). I loosened the mufflers at clamps (not remove) and removed hanger bolts to let mufflers hang down. Makes it easier to get hitch between bags and mufflers. Right strut that connects to frame required me to move saddlebag lock cables, as they come right thru the area that this strut needs to be. Getting the struts down to hitch, particularly right one, was toughest part. Bike on Center Stand helps. As you may know, don't tighten any fasteners till all are in place. Directions, read em a few times.

Elin, I have a coupler on my trailer.

If you don't use a coupler, like what Steve said, get a ball with a long shaft so that the trailer does not bind on the ball when the bike is in a low lean.

You can see on my coupler that it pivots from one side to the other (180 degrees), even if the bike were to be laid down on it's side to change a tire, you could leave the trailer attached and it would still be upright.

You didn't say what you're pulling.

My brother pulled a large folding camp trailer for years with a cargo box, cooler on the front and all the "necessities" that his wife found to take with, etc. Gross weight-800#.

He had me extend the trailer tongue by 2 1/2 feet. Motorcycle riders thought it was weird but truck drivers always said "I bet that pulls real nice." And it did.

I'm pulling a fiberglass ZZ Trailer. Will hold 250 lbs of cargo.

Here is a video of my set up on my Valkyrie with a Bushtec hitch and trailer. This is why a Bushtec trailer will tow and you won't even know it's there. It is the only set up I will ever use. Try tipping your trailer when it is at an angle to the bike as shown in the video, it won't do it without flipping the bike.


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