I learned on the metal GTO's that I later fried. You only have to shave a little off on the left and right sides. You do not have to go all the way to where the webbing ring is started to be glued. Try to leave a little gap between the edge of the web and the trim. Take a little off and see if it fits. Don't expect to push them straight in. You will have to tilt them a little to get past the outer metal dash frame lip and the clear gauge cluster cover, then level them out. Take your time.Originally Posted by Brasco
I think I used a rotozip with a cutting wheel when I trimmed mine. Use some painters tape to keep the cuttings out of the speaker. Make sure the speaker is secured so you can focus hands on controlling your cutting tool and don't heat up the base too much.
Also, be careful not to lose the rubber encased nuts when you put the screws back in. They will push out of the back and could get lost, so make sure you thread the screws gently without pushing down. Don't ask me how I know. They can get lost easily and are a PITA to put back in because you have to remove the metal bezel to reseat them.
You may also have to make the mounting holes in the speaker slightly larger. I forget if I had to do that or not.
Also, if memory serves, the speakers only go in one way due to the shape of the back of the speaker and speaker boot. Compare the back of the speaker to the speaker boot before you choose what part of the speaker to trim.
You will also need to make some pigtails because these have screw terminals versus spade connectors.
Take a look at the pictures that I posted. I actually trimmed more than I needed to.
I also put some polyester batting in the extra lobes of the speaker enclosure that I had left over from another speaker project. It seemed to help the bass response a bit. The speaker enclosure has 2 extra lobes of which one is ported.
HTH
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