Lets see if I can set the record straight on changing from incandescent to LED bulbs.
Hyperflashing
The standard OEM turn indicator relay on modern motor vehicles is designed to let you know when one of your incandescent bulbs has gone out. If an incandescent bulbs filament breaks it creates an open electrical circuit and no current is used in that circuit. The OEM relay detects the loss of electrical current and then Hyper, or quickly, flashes all (left or right) turn signal circuits INCLUDING the arrow on the vehicles dash, giving you and indication one or more turn indicator bulb not working.
The reason we get hyperflash when changing to LED bulbs is because LED’s use so much less current than incandescent bulbs that the OEM relay thinks the LED is an open circuit and “senses” a fault in one or more of the bulbs and therefore hyperflashes.
The two ways to fix hyperflashing is to either: 1.Use MORE current in each circuit or 2. Replace the OEM relay with one that’s designed for lower current draw.
The better solution is to replace the relay with one designed for LED bulbs low current draw. The main reason for installing LED bulbs is to use LESS current which saves battery power for other accessories. Using load resistors is a waste of battery power. It will stop the OEM relay from sensing the open and hyperflashing but it does this by literally burning off the extra current in heat dissipated off the resistor. The other reason for using LEDs are the longer life span of the low power usage bulbs.
Brightness
Changing to LED bulbs saves battery power but the reality is most “standard OEM replacement” LED bulbs are not brighter than incandescent bulbs. Some can even be dimmer because they're focused in one direction and the focal point may not work well with the OEM lens cover the replacement LED bulb is illuminating though.
Now, IMHO, I believe flashing/changing/blinking/alternating gets more attention than brightness. Think of every emergency vehicle you ever seen. (Hopefully they were passing you and not parked behind you.) Yes, all the lights are bright but the real "out of the corner of your eye attention getter" is the flashing.
Several Goldwing riders have added some version of an “LED Emergency Vehicle Grill Warning Light” to the rear of the bike. These are designed to be very bright and can be programmed to flash at different intervals.
I’ve added a Swift 3.0 TIR 2 watt 4 LED below my license plate and set it to flash 4 times before going solid red. If I’m in a spot where I need more than 4 flashes I simply let the break in and out every five-ten seconds to get the LED flashing again. I also changed the two OEM break lights to LED Ultra-Flash Pathfinder 7443 bulbs. Everyone tells me they can see my break lights.
None of this addresses red running lights. I've heard of modification to add bulbs to the rear left and right turn indicator housing but some have had issues with water condensation. Obviously you can’t have flashing running lights but I’m open to just some additional, regular brightness, red running LEDs.
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