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Thread: LED tail lights

  1. #11
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    Hard to miss the BACK OFF lights. They really catch the eye.
    ITS ALL GOOD

  2. #12
    Senior Member 53driver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xrider57 View Post
    Can you tell me what you bought and how you wired it?
    Yes. One of our gal members is an incredible DIY chick.
    She has a YouTube video with parts numbers and sources.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhumqeAgYSY

    Cheers,
    Steve
    My girls:
    Isleen - 2014 F6BD
    Saorla - 1995 FLSTN Heritage Special


    "Politeness, n: The most acceptable hypocrisy."
    Ambrose Bierce

  3. #13
    Senior Member 2wheelsforme's Avatar
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    I have lots of light on the back of my bike with the Kury strips down each side and pulsing when brakes are applied. What I just found out and something I have seen on other bikes with LED upgrades is very little noticeable difference in light output is viewed between the run and brake lights. While yes more brighter lights are a good thing but if the runs are really bright you can lose the effectiveness of having brighter brake lights. No visible brake lights is not something I desire to have. This mod adds being red run and brake and keeps the turns working in amber. What I would be more interested in doing is making the turns work also as a brake light and not as run. This would return me the brake lights that are washed out by the really bright run lights. I was already thinking about how to add two more strips of brake only lights. Found some I think would work from Radantz.

  4. #14
    Senior Member 53driver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2wheelsforme View Post
    I... This mod adds being red run and brake and keeps the turns working in amber. What I would be more interested in doing is making the turns work also as a brake light and not as run. This would return me the brake lights that are washed out by the really bright run lights. ...
    This mod lets you configure it either way.
    The switchback lights are red, with amber for turn signal use.
    I started out with my switchback red lights in Running light mode and 2wheels is correct, the difference between running and braking was not enough.
    I switched the switchback red lights to Brake mode, and now my entire ass end lights up red when I apply the brakes - much better.
    All happy now.
    Steve
    My girls:
    Isleen - 2014 F6BD
    Saorla - 1995 FLSTN Heritage Special


    "Politeness, n: The most acceptable hypocrisy."
    Ambrose Bierce

  5. #15
    Senior Member Rickc's Avatar
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    Cicero,IN
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2wheelsforme View Post
    I have lots of light on the back of my bike with the Kury strips down each side and pulsing when brakes are applied. What I just found out and something I have seen on other bikes with LED upgrades is very little noticeable difference in light output is viewed between the run and brake lights. While yes more brighter lights are a good thing but if the runs are really bright you can lose the effectiveness of having brighter brake lights. No visible brake lights is not something I desire to have. This mod adds being red run and brake and keeps the turns working in amber. What I would be more interested in doing is making the turns work also as a brake light and not as run. This would return me the brake lights that are washed out by the really bright run lights. I was already thinking about how to add two more strips of brake only lights. Found some I think would work from Radantz.
    I did the LED upgrade and had a rider following me comment that very thing, that he saw little difference between the brake light and the running lights. If not for an added brake light that flashes he did not notice the difference in light intensity.

  6. #16
    Junior Member
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    Aug 2016
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    Custer Park IL
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    Sylvannia makes led replacements for factory bulbs..no need for flasher change either. Been in mine for over a year now no problems....

  7. #17
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    Aug 2018
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    Idaho
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    Got mine from SoCal, fronts and rears and led headlamps along with the relay that I replaced in the front. Very happy with the easy conversion.

  8. #18
    Senior Member shortleg0521's Avatar
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    fredrick. maryland
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    What is needed is a conversion that Kury has, it consists of a wire that has a resister or diodes wired in and then out
    to 2 wires for brake and run. It lowers voltage for run and ups voltage for brake.
    Works great iif you change the socket in rear and use led bulb that goes from amber to red.

  9. #19
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    Oct 2014
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    Leander, Texas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vandal View Post
    Got mine from SoCal, fronts and rears and led headlamps along with the relay that I replaced in the front. Very happy with the easy conversion.

    Part number?

  10. #20
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    Texas Hill Country
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    Lets see if I can set the record straight on changing from incandescent to LED bulbs.

    Hyperflashing

    The standard OEM turn indicator relay on modern motor vehicles is designed to let you know when one of your incandescent bulbs has gone out. If an incandescent bulbs filament breaks it creates an open electrical circuit and no current is used in that circuit. The OEM relay detects the loss of electrical current and then Hyper, or quickly, flashes all (left or right) turn signal circuits INCLUDING the arrow on the vehicles dash, giving you and indication one or more turn indicator bulb not working.

    The reason we get hyperflash when changing to LED bulbs is because LED’s use so much less current than incandescent bulbs that the OEM relay thinks the LED is an open circuit and “senses” a fault in one or more of the bulbs and therefore hyperflashes.

    The two ways to fix hyperflashing is to either: 1.Use MORE current in each circuit or 2. Replace the OEM relay with one that’s designed for lower current draw.

    The better solution is to replace the relay with one designed for LED bulbs low current draw. The main reason for installing LED bulbs is to use LESS current which saves battery power for other accessories. Using load resistors is a waste of battery power. It will stop the OEM relay from sensing the open and hyperflashing but it does this by literally burning off the extra current in heat dissipated off the resistor. The other reason for using LEDs are the longer life span of the low power usage bulbs.

    Brightness

    Changing to LED bulbs saves battery power but the reality is most “standard OEM replacement” LED bulbs are not brighter than incandescent bulbs. Some can even be dimmer because they're focused in one direction and the focal point may not work well with the OEM lens cover the replacement LED bulb is illuminating though.

    Now, IMHO, I believe flashing/changing/blinking/alternating gets more attention than brightness. Think of every emergency vehicle you ever seen. (Hopefully they were passing you and not parked behind you.) Yes, all the lights are bright but the real "out of the corner of your eye attention getter" is the flashing.

    Several Goldwing riders have added some version of an “LED Emergency Vehicle Grill Warning Light” to the rear of the bike. These are designed to be very bright and can be programmed to flash at different intervals.

    I’ve added a Swift 3.0 TIR 2 watt 4 LED below my license plate and set it to flash 4 times before going solid red. If I’m in a spot where I need more than 4 flashes I simply let the break in and out every five-ten seconds to get the LED flashing again. I also changed the two OEM break lights to LED Ultra-Flash Pathfinder 7443 bulbs. Everyone tells me they can see my break lights.

    None of this addresses red running lights. I've heard of modification to add bulbs to the rear left and right turn indicator housing but some have had issues with water condensation. Obviously you can’t have flashing running lights but I’m open to just some additional, regular brightness, red running LEDs.
    Last edited by SeaSteve; 03-03-2020 at 01:41 PM.
    2016 F6B Standard Matte Silver. Adding extras as FA$T as I can afford!!!
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