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Thread: Synthetic or Dino?

  1. #21
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    I have run Spectral synthetic blend 10/40 for many years. Last winter I won a gallon of 10/40 Bellray Dino oil. Mid summer I was due for an oil change so I used the Bellray. Before I logged 5,000 miles I was noticing a different sound to the motor. At just shy of the 5,000 mile mark I changed oil and went back to the Spectral blend. At the first start up the motor ran quieter and clutch engagement was smoother.

  2. #22
    Senior Member DaWadd's Avatar
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    I decided to try some Motul full syn this fall before she went to bed. Pricey but I only change it once a year. Previously used Mobil 1 synthetic motorcycle oil.
    2013 F6B in black of course

  3. #23
    Senior Member Big TP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ewreck View Post
    S A R C A S M. I use it. You're 100% correct in it being personal. My wife, who was a Chevron oil and lubricant rep for over 25 years and has the degrees and certifications that tells me she knows WAY more than I do laughs when I mention these oil threads. She would tell anyone if they were to ask, run whatever the hell you want if it meets spec for the application. She'd even tell you off the record you could probably dump any oil viscosity into your engine and get away with it. She would also tell you syn blends are a waste of money. If you enjoy changing oil every 3 or 4K don't blow the extra cash on synthetics. I use full synthetic, multiple brands,in all my motors and change it every 12k with 0.00 oil related problems in any motor I've ever had. I've had oil analyzed after use and it's never been close to being "bad". Anyone who runs big equipment or has a fleet of vehicles usually pays to test the oil instead of blanket changes every X amount of miles as its more cost effective. There's my reason why I do what I do.
    I think she is on point.

    I also recall reading in one of my car warranty books that you may use full synthetic if you wish but must still adhere to the maintenance schedule as listed. But I would say if running syn and out of warranty, maybe a couple extra thousand miles may be a reason.
    On another note, whenever I ran syn on my Harleys it sounded like a car crash in the motor. With regular oil, smooth and quiet.
    Last edited by Big TP; 12-14-2018 at 04:29 PM.

  4. #24
    Senior Member broncsrule21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big TP View Post
    I think she is on point.

    I also recall reading in one of my car warranty books that you may use full synthetic if you wish but must still adhere to the maintenance schedule as listed. But I would say if running syn and out of warranty, maybe a couple extra thousand miles may be a reason.
    On another note, whenever I ran syn on my Harleys it sounded like a car crash in the motor. With regular oil, smooth and quiet.

    LOUD engines save lives!
    2013 F6B ---Nimitz Class Battle Sofa

  5. #25
    Senior Member unsub's Avatar
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    I followed Ewreck's lead and asked my wife what she would recommend. So I changed things up this year and switched to Canola. I'll pass along the results after my next oil change.
    Floats Like a Butterfly, Stings Like a "B"
    What does the B stand for? B-Courteous. B-Safe. B-Seen.....B-CNU on the road!

  6. #26
    Senior Member 2wheelsforme's Avatar
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    Used French fry oil is low cost, recycles a product and makes your exhaust smell oh so good!

  7. #27
    Senior Member olegoat345's Avatar
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    I prefer AMSOIL MC oil. Whatever you use, make sure it's MC oil. MC oil has a additive that will protect your clutch & keep it from slipping. Regular automobile / car & truck oils does not & could screw up your clutch. Serious $$$$$

  8. #28
    Senior Member shortleg0521's Avatar
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    I run syn oil because on longer trips I am never sure when I will get a chance to change it.
    So being able to run syn longer than Dino oil that is why for me.

  9. #29
    Senior Member F6Dave's Avatar
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    MC vs. Auto Oils

    Quote Originally Posted by olegoat345 View Post
    I prefer AMSOIL MC oil. Whatever you use, make sure it's MC oil. MC oil has a additive that will protect your clutch & keep it from slipping. Regular automobile / car & truck oils does not & could screw up your clutch. Serious $$$$$
    Some MC oils actually lack an additive that could cause problems with wet clutches. Lower viscosity (<30) oils with an 'energy conserving' label on the bottle usually contain 'moly' (molybdenum disulfide) to reduce friction. Larger quantities of this additive have been known to cause clutch slippage in some MC engines, so MC specific oils usually contain less or none at all. Interestingly, Honda's MC oils contain some moly.

    The other additive to pay attention to is ZDDP, a zinc-phosphorus anti-wear compound. Due to EPA concerns about cat damage, most lower viscosity auto oils now have greatly reduced ZDDP content. This is a concern for some older engines with 'flat tappets', and could be an issue with our GL1800 engines. As I mentioned earlier, Ford saw such an increase in wear with some of the new formulas that it recommends against using them in any of their diesel engines.

    From what I've read, many higher viscosity (40+) oils haven't changed as much. The current spec sheet for Mobil 1 15W-50 auto oil shows slightly higher zinc and phosphorus content than their 10W-40 MC oil. I've used Mobil 1 15W-50 auto oil exclusively in my 2 Valkyries and 2 F6Bs. In nearly 350,000 combined miles those bikes have been trouble free.
    Last edited by F6Dave; 12-19-2018 at 04:24 PM.

  10. #30
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    I run the Mobil 1 10W-40 for motorcycles and the OEM Honda filter and change it every 3000 miles because it makes me feel good. LOL

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