2013 F6b rear brake pedal rock hard
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Thread: 2013 F6b rear brake pedal rock hard

  1. #1
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    Question 2013 F6b rear brake pedal rock hard

    Hello fellow f6B's,
    My brakes are dragging. The rear pedal is rock hard. The brake lever is normal.
    I've only owned the bike about 4 months. I decided after buying it to replace all fluids. So i replaced the clutch and brake fluid. When i went to check rear reservoir i noticed it was empty. I added fluid and bled it. They worked fine for 2 months until now. And the rear fluid is still normal level.
    It had the rear brake recall done in 2016.
    Any advice? I've heard people say check the calipers but not sure how to check them? Wondering if it could be air. Or seals in the rear master cylinder?
    Or because it's linked could it be something else?

    thanks,

    ShadowAero

  2. #2
    Admin - Chief poop scooper Phantom's Avatar
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    Rear brake must first be bled at the front calipers (linked system) , then you bleed it at the rear caliper.
    You probably have air in the lines leading to the front caliper.
    There are 2 bleeders on the front caliper, the bleeder pointing back to the engine is for the center caliper piston (rear brake link), the bleeder pointing up is for the front brakes.

    I have always bled, front right caliper first, left front caliper second and then rear caliper third.



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  3. #3
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    Yup, Gotta bleed the F6 brakes, in the proper sequence, or, you get issues. I've installed the "Speed Bleeders" on my F6, so brake bleeding is a piece of cake, and a easy 1 man job. There are 7 bleeder valves, if I remember correctly. Must be done in the order as stated in the manual.

  4. #4
    Moderator BIGLRY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadowaero View Post
    Hello fellow f6B's,
    My brakes are dragging. The rear pedal is rock hard. The brake lever is normal.
    I've only owned the bike about 4 months. I decided after buying it to replace all fluids. So i replaced the clutch and brake fluid. When i went to check rear reservoir i noticed it was empty. I added fluid and bled it. They worked fine for 2 months until now. And the rear fluid is still normal level.
    It had the rear brake recall done in 2016.
    Any advice? I've heard people say check the calipers but not sure how to check them? Wondering if it could be air. Or seals in the rear master cylinder?
    Or because it's linked could it be something else?

    thanks,

    ShadowAero
    Has the factory SAFETY RECALL on the secondary master cylinder been done? Here is the Honda service bulletin
    notice all about it. http://www.gwrra-wav.org/goldwingbulletins/1800SB23.pdf

    Check for the punch mark on the secondary master cylinder as shown in the bulletin.
    Last edited by BIGLRY; 03-07-2020 at 02:34 PM.

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  5. #5
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    Thank you all for your suggestions. I will try to rebleed them in correct order. The Recall on rear brakes was done in 2016. It does have the punch mark.
    I ended up seeing another gold wing owner and he took a look and thought it might be missing a bushing on the pin. Here's a pic. I looked at the parts list and couldn't be certain. What do you guys think? Could that be the issue.

    I forgot to mention i had both tires replaced about a week ago. The dealer says they don't typically remove the caliper but its a big coincidence.

    IMG_9986.jpg hm0713033047.jpg
    Last edited by Shadowaero; 03-09-2020 at 01:33 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Wing'n it's Avatar
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    The original posters description of his problem sounds exactly the same as the rear brake recall issue. Possibly it was never done but was marked that it was??
    2019 Honda Goldwing Tour DCT / CSC trike

  7. #7
    Senior Member F6Pilot's Avatar
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    Bleeding Sequence:

    1: Front Right Brake Upper Bleeder Valve
    2: Front Left Brake Middle/lower Bleeder Valve
    3: Front Left Brake Upper Bleeder Valve
    4: Front Right Brake Lower Bleeder Valve
    5: Rear Brake Lower Bleeder Valve
    6: Anti-Dive: bleeder valve on top
    7: Rear Brake Upper Bleeder Valve

    Do these two additional steps to be sure you have no residual air bubble in the rear system. ( I did not have to perform these)

    8: Pressure bleeding the lower Junction block. (Upper left side of frame sitting on bike). Follow rubber hose from Secondary master cyl to the Junction block.
    9: Pressure Bleed the top Banjo bolt on the Secondary Master Cyl. (To be sure the air bubble is completely out)

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