I used the K&N on the 2013 and was very satisfied with it. It comes pre-oiled. I won't reuse it first because they say they did it to reduce landfill and that PC bullshit is just that, second, if I'm going to do all that work, doing open heart surgery, to get to it, for $55 I'd rather have a brand new one every time. You can see an immediate difference in the construction between the OEM and the K&N. Also, no need for the gasket with the K&N it's built into the mold. So between the Torq Loopz and the filter she should be breathing easy, more air more fuel, etc. K&N says 50% more air, probably over exaggerating but even if it's 25-30% ot's definitely worth the price of the filter. Will, you're talking about that rectangular box on the port side of the filter housing, correct? If that's it there is a rubber band in between those connectors that clips on the bottom that holds the whole unit in place. Once you unhook the band you can unseat the whole unit and it falls away down to the radio/aux control unit, if that's the one you're talking about. I call this job "Revenge of Hiroshima" and the Crank Sensor Control "Revenge of Nagasaki"Originally Posted by willtill
Mike, you'll definitely feel the bike breathing better with that new filter. Why did you go with the K&N though, that's the washable. reusable filter? Did you have to pre-treat it with the K&N air filter oil?
Getting to that air filter can be a PITA. IIRC, my biggest problem that I had was with the two connectors that attached to the control unit that sits right over the top cover of that air filter housing (item 24 below). For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how to pop off one of the connectors,, so I had to tie that control unit box back as best as I could, so I could remove the air filter cover.
In a month or so, I'm changing out my coolant, replacing my rear brake pads (and possible the fronts) and flushing the brake fluid system and clutch, as well as draining and refilling my final drive. I'll do my air filter next year.
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