Computer re-set with aftermarket pipes/air filter

[opas ride]

Seeing a lot of pro/con info last couple days on the site under "what exhaust are you running"...What is the correct answer to this question if anyone really knows??..I am running Cobra's and K&N filter installed by the dealer at pick-up time and bike seems to run great..Appreciate an up-date to this issue if someone would post the "real world" answer...Thanks

[Hornblower]

Seeing a lot of pro/con info last couple days on the site under "what exhaust are you running"...What is the correct answer to this question if anyone really knows??..I am running Cobra's and K&N filter installed by the dealer at pick-up time and bike seems to run great..Appreciate an up-date to this issue if someone would post the "real world" answer...Thanks

I can give you the sequence given to me by Jimmy at Torq Master Pipes as follows:

1. Disconnect the battery negative lead from battery.

2. Key on.

3. Touch the starter button as if trying to start the engine. (helps discharge any residual e- the system.

4. Key off.

5. Wait about 15 minutes......

6. FROM THIS POINT FORWARD DO NOT TOUCH OR TWIST THROTTLE (until you go riding).

7. Reconnect battery neg. to batt.

8. Key on.

9. Touch/push starter button to start engine. DO NOT TOUCH/TWIST THROTTLE.

10.. Allow to idle for 10 mins (untill fan kicks on). DO NOT TOUCH/TWIST THROTTLE.

[bob109]

I can give you the sequence given to me by Jimmy at Torq Master Pipes as follows:

1. Disconnect the battery negative lead from battery.

2. Key on.

3. Touch the starter button as if trying to start the engine. (helps discharge any residual e- the system.

4. Key off.

5. Wait about 15 minutes......

6. FROM THIS POINT FORWARD DO NOT TOUCH OR TWIST THROTTLE (until you go riding).

7. Reconnect battery neg. to batt.

8. Key on.

9. Touch/push starter button to start engine. DO NOT TOUCH/TWIST THROTTLE.

10.. Allow to idle for 10 mins (untill fan kicks on). DO NOT TOUCH/TWIST THROTTLE.

+1

Honda uses 3D Mapping and this same procedure was used to re-calibrate the infamous 1800 VTV. After following the described procedure turn off the ignition and then restart the bike. You will have re-booted the ECM

[Steve 0080]

Same for Rune…...

[GiddyupF6B]

But the question remains......is this necessary to do after installing pipes or a K&N? Doesn't the ecu adapt automatically to any changes made?

[bob109]

But the question remains......is this necessary to do after installing pipes or a K&N? Doesn't the ecu adapt automatically to any changes made?

Like a computer, which receives a new program up-date, it recommends you restart your computer. Same for the ECM, as it has received some new info from the Oxygen, TPS, Crank and MAP Censors it has to re-boot to theses new parameters The procedure which has been described does just that

[opas ride]

+1..That is exactly my point..Is it really necessary to do this procedure as my bike runs fine to me..Maybe the dealer did the re-set before I picked it up as I don't know...I will try to find out when I contact them.......

[98valk]

Just to beat a dead horse;

Is "re-boot" meant as "reset", and back to factory? Or is it a "re-calibrate", which would adjust to any changes, such as variation in sensors, variations in altitude, K&N vs stock, etc?

I ask because I am at 5000 ft. Bike was probably cal'd at sea levelish.

Bike runs great, but greater is fun, too.

I'm wondering if it could affect gas mileage by running a bit leaner during the open loop time (if it was re-cal'd vs reset).

With that said, I do not have the cold hesitation problem. Maybe because I am running a bit rich during the open loop period.

TIA

[bstroh59]

Just to beat a dead horse;

Is "re-boot" meant as "reset", and back to factory? Or is it a "re-calibrate", which would adjust to any changes, such as variation in sensors, variations in altitude, K&N vs stock, etc?

I ask because I am at 5000 ft. Bike was probably cal'd at sea levelish.

Bike runs great, but greater is fun, too.

I'm wondering if it could affect gas mileage by running a bit leaner during the open loop time (if it was re-cal'd vs reset).

With that said, I do not have the cold hesitation problem. Maybe because I am running a bit rich during the open loop period.

TIA

When you head up into the mountains, it is a good idea to do the same as above, with the exception of disconnecting the battery.

If your bike is shut off and cooled down, start the motor and don't touch the throttle. Let it warm up to where the fans kick on, then off. Shut off the key, restart and you are good to go. Basically what you've done, is a forced recalibration of the ECM.

[ED209]

Ok, I got to have some questions answered here

Does anybody have the stock a/f ratio chart on a dyno sheet or what have you. Yamaha is notorious for running their bikes very rich at idle to very lean at top end. You just cant fix it without a PC aftermarket piggybacked on the ecu. Reboot or not it just doesn't have enough parameter area to cover the addition of a K&N filter or an exhaust.

So Honda has 3D mapping. Ok I looked it up and it doesn't say how much it will repair in the a/f mixture, so how much will it repair?

Plus, how would you know if you are or not in the stoic area of a/f mix ? Wouldn't one need a sniffer done on a dyno throughout the rev range ?

Not trying to stir the pot, just curious of the a/f mix across the board after adding a very breathable air filter and exhaust, is it realy safe, has anybody an a/f map so I can see it?

Is this ecu reprogrammable by a Honda Rep ?

Extremely concerned here with this 20k motor.