You guys are either very smart or I am really dumb. You lost me at pulse modulators. Good job on getting it worked out! Now we need it as a kit.
You guys are either very smart or I am really dumb. You lost me at pulse modulators. Good job on getting it worked out! Now we need it as a kit.
Originally Posted by yellowskeeter1
Avatar is a photograph I took July 4th 2009 of a flag and cannon located on Freeman's Farm at Saratoga National Park in Stillwater, New York. A location of a Revolutionary battle field and an American victory over the British in the Autumn of 1777. Let us give thanks to all Veterans past and present for their sacrifice.
When can we expect a set of instructions and a parts list? A cruise is the one thing keeping the F6B from being the perfect bike.
+1 True Dat
Is anybody using an O-Ring as a throttle lock/cruise control? (ie:Catapillar part number 8M4991 silicone o-ring)
Bought a ten pack and used one briefly before purchasing the Adjustable Aluminum version of the Go-Cruise. I found that I can place a o-ring on both sides which acts as collars and stabilizes the GC.
A few pics for clarity!
100_0798.jpg100_0799.jpg
-------- is working on a plug and play electronic cruise,
he told me maybe 60 days out.
I got the Rostera cruise on my wife's F6 working. I did most everything the same as Pete and Barry in the early posts, so I appreciate their info.Here's a couple of things I did different:
1. I didn't use the relay switch for the brake "kill" switch and found that I could run a wire from the "Cold" pickup on the cruise to the back of the bike and get a true ground on the wire. The cold side coming from the rear wheel brake switch is on the front side of a solenoid under the seat, which didn't give me a full ground. If you pick up the wire that is after the solenoid that runs along the right frame, it will give you a true ground.
2. I also put on a clutch kill switch. (Part SW, CLUTCH CRUISE 35335-MG9-951) I ran a wire from the green wire (it's only about 10" long) that ends in the wire harness, to the clutch switch and then to a ground. Pretty simple and it kills the cruise control as soon as you touch the clutch. I think this is a little better then the over rev function.
3. I also bought the right controls (switches) off a wrecked bike and cannibalized the switches. When you do this, you have to swap the control body of the reverse switch and the cruise on/off switch. Careful when you pop these open, there's a little spring inside that loves to go flying.
It was a lot of work, and not an easy add on, but I think my wife is going to love it.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Always try to positively influence a negative situation. ~author unknown
Mine: '13 Gray Metallic
The wife's: '13 F6B Black
(Double) Darksider #487
Michelin Alpin (current)
Battle Axe BT45
Proud to be a FREE American and I thank the Vets that did it for me!!!
'08 Titanium Wing
'79 Yamaha 750 Special
'78 Honda 750, '72 Honda 350, '73 Suzuki 250, '75 Suzuki 185, '72 Suzuki 90
Great job!!!!!!!
I am going to tackle mine this fall and may need to ask some questions if you don't mind.
Ask any questions that you want. That's what the forum is for.
Make sure that you have a factory service manual before you attempt this install.
I like the idea of the clutch switch as bstroh59 did, rather than the over-speed protection as I did. When I began this project (and believe me, it is a project), I wanted to invest as little $$ as possible, as I wasn't 100% sure that the install was going to be successful.
The Rostra cruise control switch is kind of small, so the Honda handle bar control would probably be the way to go if cost is not a factor. I will probably make these changes this winter. I have put several thousand miles on the bike with the Rostra control, so, at least I know the system works.
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