The cruise has a minimum "set" speed built into the control unit's software. The min. "set" speed is determined from the pulse count per mile that you set in the unit. For example, if the actual pulse count is 20,000 pulses per mile & you set the Rostra unit @ 24,000 pulses per mile, the unit will see it's minimum "set speed" sooner (lower speed) than if the correct pulses per mile were set. Conversely, if you program the unit to a pulses per mile lower than actual pulse count, the minimum "set" speed will be higher.
I do not believe that the cruise unit has a max. speed programed into it. I have only tested mine to 75mph & it worked fine at that speed. When I get a clear day I'll try it at a higher speed. GA has a "super speeder" fine that is on top of any local speeding fine. 20 mph over the posted limit or 85 mph gets you this extra fine of $250.00.
The Rostra unit has a maximum mechanical pull of 1-5/8". So, depending on your throttle arm length, and the amount of slack in the cable at idle, the unit may not have enough mechanical travel to pull the throttle open far enough to maintain very high speeds, especially with steeper hills and heaver loads (ie: pulling a trailer). My throttle arm has a center to center length of slightly over 1-1/2", which gives me a total pull length of about 2-1/8". Therefore, in my case, it's impossible for the cruise control to fully open the throttle. However, my guess is that it'll maintain speeds up to 85 or 90 mph, which is faster than I normally ride.
Barry
You guys are either very smart or I am really dumb. You lost me at pulse modulators. Good job on getting it worked out! Now we need it as a kit.
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When can we expect a set of instructions and a parts list? A cruise is the one thing keeping the F6B from being the perfect bike.
Is anybody using an O-Ring as a throttle lock/cruise control? (ie:Catapillar part number 8M4991 silicone o-ring)
Bought a ten pack and used one briefly before purchasing the Adjustable Aluminum version of the Go-Cruise. I found that I can place a o-ring on both sides which acts as collars and stabilizes the GC.
A few pics for clarity!
100_0798.jpg100_0799.jpg
-------- is working on a plug and play electronic cruise,
he told me maybe 60 days out.
I got the Rostera cruise on my wife's F6 working. I did most everything the same as Pete and Barry in the early posts, so I appreciate their info. Here's a couple of things I did different:
1. I didn't use the relay switch for the brake "kill" switch and found that I could run a wire from the "Cold" pickup on the cruise to the back of the bike and get a true ground on the wire. The cold side coming from the rear wheel brake switch is on the front side of a solenoid under the seat, which didn't give me a full ground. If you pick up the wire that is after the solenoid that runs along the right frame, it will give you a true ground.
2. I also put on a clutch kill switch. (Part SW, CLUTCH CRUISE 35335-MG9-951) I ran a wire from the green wire (it's only about 10" long) that ends in the wire harness, to the clutch switch and then to a ground. Pretty simple and it kills the cruise control as soon as you touch the clutch. I think this is a little better then the over rev function.
3. I also bought the right controls (switches) off a wrecked bike and cannibalized the switches. When you do this, you have to swap the control body of the reverse switch and the cruise on/off switch. Careful when you pop these open, there's a little spring inside that loves to go flying.
It was a lot of work, and not an easy add on, but I think my wife is going to love it.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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Mine: '13 Gray Metallic
The wife's: '13 F6B Black
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